Warning

 

Close
Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Cancel Confirm
AR15.COM
2/8/2005 2:41:11 PM EDT
...
2/8/2005 4:15:50 PM EDT
[#1]
You need a standard 1911 trigger, not Gold Cup, they are wider.  You then have choices of long or short, drilled, and on and on.
2/8/2005 6:58:43 PM EDT
[#2]
That's a question with a large answer.  You don't NEED a trigger, but a tighter fit one that is lighter in weight and has an overtravel adjustmment would be nice.  The stock plastic one is perfectly serviceable, and is plenty durable.  

Besides the difference in regular versus Gold Cup, here's what to look for:

-An oversized trigger will require fitting to the frame.  The shoe (the part that is visible) will be oversized from top to bottom, and sometimes even width.  This is so that there is less wiggle and slop when pulling the trigger, which means a cleaner feeling trigger pull.  Also, many times the stirrup (the part inside the gun) will have numerous fitting points.  Again, this is to enhance feel, and in some cases adjust things like take up (the amount of free travel to the rear before the stirrup causes the disconnector to engage the sear and release the hammer).

-Trigger material can affect weight.  Most aftermarket triggers are made of a lighter material than solid steel ones.  This does not decrease your trigger pull weight, though some think it does.  A lighter weight trigger accomplishes two things.  First, it has less inertia during recoil, and will help prevent hammer follow through on a gun that has a trigger job.  Second, it has less weight to overcome for a theoretically faster trigger reset.  Various manufacturers reduce weight by using materials such as carbon fiber, aluminum, tatanium, magnesium, and plain old plastic.  Also, stirrups can be skeletonized, and there can be holes cut into the shoe.

-Most aftermarket triggers have an overtravel adjustment.  This limits the amount of rearward travel the trigger has after the sear releases the hammer and the gun fires.  There will either be an adjustment screw that limits the trigger movement by hitting on the front surface of the mag release, or the trigger shoe will have extra material inside where it would contact the mag release (which means it's fit, rather than offering screw adjustment).  Limiting overtravel makes for a nicer feel, and can help the trigger reset faster.  However, it can be overdone.  If it's adjusted to the bare minimum, the hammer half cock notch will hit the sear face, causing batterring and a loss of crispness and lightness.  

-There are drop in triggers that have the benefit of lighter material and overtravel adjustment, but not the benefit of less wobble.  

It really comes down to several factors.  What are you using the gun for, can you fit it, are you willing ot have a gunsmith fit it if you cannot, money, and durabilty issues.  Also, some triggers are substantially harder to fit than others.  

2/9/2005 6:20:08 AM EDT
[#3]

Quoted:
Is there a certain trigger I need to buy for a Colt 1991A1 to replace the plastic one?

Thanks,
srt205



Feel free to send me that plastic trigger....I won't use any other trigger in my 1911's.
2/9/2005 6:36:22 PM EDT
[#4]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Is there a certain trigger I need to buy for a Colt 1991A1 to replace the plastic one?

Thanks,
srt205



Feel free to send me that plastic trigger....I won't use any other trigger in my 1911's.



Are you in Phoenix?  I have a ton of them!
2/10/2005 6:57:09 AM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:

Quoted:

Quoted:
Is there a certain trigger I need to buy for a Colt 1991A1 to replace the plastic one?

Thanks,
srt205



Feel free to send me that plastic trigger....I won't use any other trigger in my 1911's.



Are you in Phoenix?  I have a ton of them!



Mesa....hey, I can always use a couple spares....I like both the smooth and the groovey ( )!!!!