Posted: 8/12/2009 3:08:57 AM EDT
ok, hopefully this will make sense to somebody, I'm kinda freekin' out...I'm a new glock owner, just bought a 34 and 22. I like the trigger on the 34, so I bought the parts to make the 22 the same(trigger spring, 3.5 lw connector and a .25 trigger job) did the "buffing" on correct parts, put in the connector...cant figure out where to put the spring....I didn't have one! ...so....I take apart the 34 to see what it looks like, just like video...but the 22 has a black plastic piece that fits inside where the spring should be...the 34 doesn't have this...Is this taking the place of the spring? if so, which is better? also, since it just fell out, not sure of orientation...if I'm supposed to use this and not the spring, how does it go in? thanks for any help, hope you can understand rambling! here is pic of "extra" piece
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That plastic piece is a 8 lb. New York trigger spring. It's made for a heavier more of a double action revolver pull.
What you will need is the same "Coil" spring as on your 34. Also be careful as to which way you hook the coil spring on. Doing it the wrong way can cause problems. http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Products.aspx?CAT=196 http://glockmeister.com/pages.php?cID=3&pID=35 These will help. 
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tac, thanks again and sorry for noob questions...what can I take apart on the slide? the firing pin and dust cover? Yes. If you remove the striker from the rear, this will allow the slide to be removed from the pistol, as the striker will not be hanging up on the trigger bar. Your New York spring assembly is missing a spring in the picture you've provided. Doesn't matter if you're not going to use it, I suppose. also, an 8lb spring...on glocks I thought the higher the trigger poundage, the easier the pull, no?
No. The heavier, the heavier. |
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cyp, according to tac, and I think he is correct, the black piece in the pic IS the spring...just not a coil one....and in this instance makes the pull poundage 8 so...a factory coil spring would lessen felt poundage...I think???? I have it right?? I have NY1 trigger springs with 3.5 lb connectors in both of my Glocks. There's a coil spring in compression between the V-shaped portion of the part. The little strut under the top leaf is what holds the coil spring in place. Yours looks black, though, and the stock part is usually OD or orange. Anyhow, the standard Glock trigger spring is a coil spring in tension, with one end hooked into the hole on the bottom of the cruciform rear of the trigger bar, and the other hooked to the back of the ejector housing. That is the one you want. It looks in miniature like the springs you saw on old-fashioned screen doors. |
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Yeah, that's a NY1 Trigger Spring, missing the spring part, goes in the middle. (unless you took that out?).
From here you can easily decide what kind of pull you want. I run NY1 springs in all my own Glocks, w/ the stock 5.5 lb. Connector. You can get a stock Trigger Spring to go with that 3.5 Connector you've got, for a light pull. I'm thinking that's what you'll want. |
| AAHSOOO, now I think I understand, the pic I have is MISSING a coil spring? wonder where it may have gone???? and that STYLE trigger spring is call NY trigger and that can be replaced with just a coil spring(standard, which I think I have now)?...sorry for noob questions, when you know whats up, it is all basic stuff, but when you dont...its clear as mud! ...would the missing spring part be the cause of it locking up, not firing and not allow me to break it down? thanks again! |
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AAHSOOO, now I think I understand, the pic I have is MISSING a coil spring? wonder where it may have gone???? and that STYLE trigger spring is call NY trigger and that can be replaced with just a coil spring(standard, which I think I have now)?...sorry for noob questions, when you know whats up, it is all basic stuff, but when you dont...its clear as mud! ...would the missing spring part be the cause of it locking up, not firing and not allow me to break it down? thanks again! What's this about it "locking up and not firing"? That NY1 Trigger Spring is indeed missing the coil spring part. The spring goes basically across the "V", you'll see little bumps where the ends of the spring are supposed to be. Some folks apparently take the coil spring out of the NY1 Trigger Spring, to get a slightly lighter pull. I consider this to be technical asshattery, as it's not intended to be used like that. Whoever had this gun before you, apparently had done this. NY1 springs are cheap, if you wanted to get a new one. Or, you could just Toss what's left there of the NY1 spring, and get the standard Trigger Spring, you know, the "coil" type, and attatch it as it should be, from the back of the Trigger Bar to the Trigger Housing. Just look at your G34, the way it's set up. Just like that. Viewed from the side, it should be an "S", not a "Z", if that makes sense. |
| vvv, when I put it all back together after my "trigger job", it felt like it "loaded" when I racked the slide, but it wouldn't fire...because of this (I think!), it wouldn't come apart(couldn't remove slide)...all goood now-hopefully-haven't shot it yet...thanks again! |
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If that NY1 trigger spring is BLACK and not GREEN, then the spring is a leaf spring inside, flat against the plastic and out of sight. I haven't seen one of those in years. They used to be stock on law enforcement Glocks back in the early 90's.
I don't think your trigger spring is the problem. If your trigger spring wasn't lifting the trigger bar, the trigger bar wouldn't engage the striker. Because the trigger bar isn't camming downward, the striker isn't being released allowing disassembly. From looking at your photo, I'd bet there is insufficient tension on that 3.5 connector. If it doesn't reach out toward the frame and engage the trigger bar, it can't redirect the trigger bar down and cause the trigger bar to release the striker. Sometimes folks don't realize that and take out the tension hoping for a better trigger pull. Instead they get a failure to fire. |
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If that NY1 trigger spring is BLACK and not GREEN, then the spring is a leaf spring inside, flat against the plastic and out of sight. I haven't seen one of those in years. They used to be stock on law enforcement Glocks back in the early 90's. I don't think your trigger spring is the problem. If your trigger spring wasn't lifting the trigger bar, the trigger bar wouldn't engage the striker. Because the trigger bar isn't camming downward, the striker isn't being released allowing disassembly. From looking at your photo, I'd bet there is insufficient tension on that 3.5 connector. If it doesn't reach out toward the frame and engage the trigger bar, it can't redirect the trigger bar down and cause the trigger bar to release the striker. Sometimes folks don't realize that and take out the tension hoping for a better trigger pull. Instead they get a failure to fire. GOOD EYE!!!  I'm ashamed to say I didn't notice that...............that IS in fact one of the old NY springs..............looking more closely at the pic, you can see the leaf spring along the inside of it. Yeah, that is old, and not too commonly seen anymore.................
I think your assesment on the Connector is correct also. |
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GOOD EYE!!! I'm ashamed to say I didn't notice that...............that IS in fact one of the old NY springs..............looking more closely at the pic, you can see the leaf spring along the inside of it. Yeah, that is old, and not too commonly seen anymore.................
I think your assesment on the Connector is correct also. I'm more ashamed that I didn't even know about the old style leaf spring. I've never seen one before. I can see it now that I know it's there. |
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hah! thanks again for the input...I was going to post a new thread but i'll ask here, hope you guys dont mind, I DO appreciate the help....trigger seams good, no bump fires!
1-anything to do to take up some of that "pre-travel" in trigger or is that something I just need to get used to? 2-I also put in an extended mag release...with one of my mags(that have a plus-2 extension) I had a couple miss feeds, if I whacked the bottom of the mag, the slide would close..its a lone wolf release..would this problem most likely be the ext. release, worn mag body, weak spring(this is what I think)-maybe they put on extension and didn't change spring?? or none of the above...I didn't have any other mags with me to try to see if it was just this one.... 3-I have this sight and am shooting way high, since its not adjustable, I was thinking of having the rear milled down some(I have access to machinists) does that seam like an acceptable solution(rather than changind the front)? lastly..after removing the set screw on the rear sight, even with a pretty good whack on a puch with a hanmmer, I couldn't get rear sight to move, I'm guessing it shouldn't be so tight, do I need a press for this? thanks again for help! 
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Re: new questions
1) The take up in your trigger is normal and necessary. Your striker is drawn to the rear in a manner similar to drawing a bow and then released. Leave it alone. 2) Misfeeds are uncommon on Glocks. My first inclination would be to check ammunition and then magazines. Every aftermarket part is an opportunity to induce an unexpected result. 3) Sure, you can file down the rear sight to lower the point of impact. It is a very old school approach, but if you like tinkering have at it. Given the size of your sight and the relatively flat surface on it's top face, you could probably take care of it with a flat hand file on a quiet range bench. Work slowly, check your progress with rounds down range, and NEVER file on a loaded pistol. Remember you are probably working toward removing 20/1000s of an inch or so. Slow and steady. |
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2m, thanks for reply...I just read that this may be my problem...I had read somewhere that using a stronger recoil spring in the 40 cal would be good as they come the same as the 9mm. I didn't do that, but I bought one of them buffers for the guide rod/spring...Now, I just read this...maybe thats the problem with #2?.... this is from glockmiester
"4. Please take our advice and do not purchase or use recoil buffer systems. The stock recoil spring performs perfectly - the gun does not maintain reliability if the recoil system is changed. Some of the most common problems that we see with these systems are a failure to feed or a failure to eject properly. In the most extreme cases, we have seen catastrophic failures related to recoil buffer systems. " |
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Have you had that "buffer" in the gun, while experiencing these malfunctions?
If so, there's a variable you can eliminate right there. Dump it. Things like that are unecessary in Glocks, serve no real purpose, and can sometimes contribute to less than reliable performance. |
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Hard to say, but we want to eliminate variables to diagnose the problem.
And rest assured, Glocks don't need these anyway. Any time you're having issues with a semi-auto, you want to eliminate variables. Aftermarket parts, if they're installed, can be a good place to start.
The spring in your mag should be just fine with a +2 attached. |
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3-I have this sight and am shooting way high, since its not adjustable, I was thinking of having the rear milled down some(I have access to machinists) does that seam like an acceptable solution(rather than changind the front)? lastly..after removing the set screw on the rear sight, even with a pretty good whack on a puch with a hanmmer, I couldn't get rear sight to move, I'm guessing it shouldn't be so tight, do I need a press for this? thanks again for help! The formula for figuring the correct sight height is: (SR*ER)/DT=COR SR is the "sight radius", the distance from the rear of the front sight to the rear of the rear sight, in inches ER is the "error", this is how much you are missing you poit of aim with your point of impact, in inches DT is the "distance to target", muzzle to target, in inches COR is the "correction", how much you have to move the sight, in inches I have a Glock 34 with Warrens and the SR is 7.5", although mine are tritium and the F/O may be sightly different. Next you need to shoot at a known distance, preferably the distance you want to be absolutely zeroed for, I generally use 15yards, or 540". Use a large plain target with a small exact aiming point. I like a USPSA or IDPA target with a 1" or 2" sticky in the center. Shoot a 10 round group. Find the center of this group and measure the distance of the center from point of aim. Say for example it is 4" high. Then your equation will look like (7.5 * 4) / 540 = 0.05556" and this means you need a new front sight .055" taller then your current front sight. |
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Hard to say, but we want to eliminate variables to diagnose the problem. And rest assured, Glocks don't need these anyway. Any time you're having issues with a semi-auto, you want to eliminate variables. Aftermarket parts, if they're installed, can be a good place to start.
The spring in your mag should be just fine with a +2 attached. bummer, its not the buffer...shot yesterday, same problem but the first mag ran fine...hard to explain whats happening...slide just doesn't go forward enough to fire, if i rack it, its fine.. almost like recoil spring is to strong(to not go back far enough to capture round) or to weak(to throw slide into lock up...I did also replace recoil spring but with what was supposed to be factory replacement(or equivilent)??/any ideas? |
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Hard to say, but we want to eliminate variables to diagnose the problem. And rest assured, Glocks don't need these anyway. Any time you're having issues with a semi-auto, you want to eliminate variables. Aftermarket parts, if they're installed, can be a good place to start.
The spring in your mag should be just fine with a +2 attached. bummer, its not the buffer...shot yesterday, same problem but the first mag ran fine...hard to explain whats happening...slide just doesn't go forward enough to fire, if i rack it, its fine.. almost like recoil spring is to strong(to not go back far enough to capture round) or to weak(to throw slide into lock up...I did also replace recoil spring but with what was supposed to be factory replacement(or equivilent)??/any ideas? Might be a good time to review this site and others like Glocktalk etc for disassemby instructions and photos, then read the instructions and review the photos to see which parts you have installed incorrectly. |
| I put in lwd 3 1/2 lb connector.."equivalent" of factory guide rod and spring AND trigger spring...ext. mag release and .25 trigger job...glock hi cap (17 rnd) mags...I'm bummed because its my "go to" gun and I shoot it as accurate as any other pistol I have...thanks again for any replies and help...If I shoot again, probably not until next weekend...I'll try to take some picks of the "hang up" |
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Well at this point I would say to go with ALL factory parts...................stock 5.5 factory Connector, a stock Recoil Spring Assembly, etc. etc.
One good way to diagnose problems with Glocks is to do just that, as they generally run best when left stock. I would do that, then shoot, see what it does, and go from there. And by the way, I've never had any problems at all running G17 mags in a G19. I don't think it could be that, unless the springs are worn or they're old worn out mags. |
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I'm kinda thinking it IS the mag..spring feels weak though really not sure, the 10 rounder feels much stiffer...I'll run several 10 rd mags first, if no problems, they we know its the mag, right? thanks again!
ps-I'm running kinda dry, this wouldn't be it, would it? |
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Naw, shouldn't be a lack of lube. Glocks run best with very little lube. Obviously you want to make sure it's lightly lubed at all the factory specified points.
Is it doing this with just one of the regular capacity mags? If so, new spring for that mag may be in order. Or try some other mags (besides those 10-rnders) to nail it down. Does sound like it's one or more mags being the culprit, at this point. |
| almost embarrased to say since I know it sounds stupid....I've only used the 1 mag...I do have others...when I had the problem the first time, I had just the mag that was in the gun...the next time I went, I thought I found the problem(buffer) so I specifically wanted to use the same mag...I take a few next time...thanks again! |