Posted: 2/19/2012 3:37:35 AM EDT
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I am sure this topic has been done to death however I didn't find a previous topics that I thought adequately convinced me so...
I am looking getting my 1st 357 not looking for ccw gun as I have plenty that fill that role, so I am thinking either a 4" or 6" I don't plan on competition shooting with it, I will probably carry it as a back up when I go hunting, as well as target shooting, and I would like it to serve as a good work hoarse combat revolver as well. basically just a good, accurate, reliable workhorse 357 I also cannot spend $1000 plus on it, my price range is looking around $500-$650 my initial feeling was to get a ruger gp100, I like that it is supposedly a tank of a revolver and owners of it seem to think very highly of its performance, its also a current production weapon so if it ever has issues parts shouldn't be a problem. however there is a gun show coming up soon and with it the opportunity to eyeball some various used s&w and colt 357s I have been looking into different S&w 357 such as the 686 and so on. supposedly they have a much better trigger than the ruger but are not as robust and rugged, and with the issues with the locking mechanism as well the diversity of all the different models I am a bit confused as to a particular model I should look out for. lastly in years past I have also seen a number of used colt troopers and trooper mark III revolvers for sale a decent price, I have always had an affinity for colts and I have been told that the trooper is a tank of a 357 similar in ruggedness to the ruger but with a better trigger. it is however an orphan gun and parts could be an issue later down the road. so my question is this, should I just take the plunge and get a new gp100 now, or should I wait and see what used colts and s&w revolvers will be at this gun show. and if I should wait, what models should I stay away from and what models should I look for. |
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If you can find a pre-lock L-frame S&W 586 or 686 (shouldn't be too difficult) go for that. Probably the best all-around workhorse .357 out there. Nice trigger and action, very accurate and built to withstand constant use with heavy magnum loads. Stuff one with .38s and it's like shooting a .22. The GP100 is nice too, but it's trigger and action are not as smooth as the S&W and both weapons are as rugged as they need to be.
The only issues I can think of with the S&W L-frames were with a very few early production 586s. No-dash and -1 models IIRC. There's still a S&W recall out on them to replace the firing pin and a couple other small bits. If they've already had the recall done there will be a "M" stamped in the yoke of the frame and you're good to go. The newer guns are all good to go. |
| I own two 686+ models, one 3" and one 5". They are by far my favorite wheel guns and I even have a Python sitting in the safe (and it stays there more often than not). They are both pre-lock versions, so there is no issue there. I would say if you can find a 686 without the lock go for it. Otherwise, swoop up a Ruger and call it good. Its really going to come down to preference on which of the Big Three you are going to enjoy most. |
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my initial feeling was to get a ruger gp100, I like that it is supposedly a tank of a revolver and owners of it seem to think very highly of its performance, its also a current production weapon so if it ever has issues parts shouldn't be a problem.
I love my GP. I can ring gongs at 100 yards with it! Stay the course... especially with the numbers of "lawyer-locked" guns coming out. |
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Good advice all, and I laughed at the "thicker" ad- haven't seen that for a while.
OP, Colt, DW, Ruger all make or made fine guns. I am a fan of S&W myself. If you find a nice M27 in your price range, buy it:
If you find a nice M28 in your price range, seriously consider buying it:
Or, and more likely, you may find a nice L frame- either the 586/686 or the 581/681's:
Or, M13, M19, M66, if you like the K frames. They are nice handling guns, but I (regrettably, now) got rid of my last K magnum, a M66 snub, a decade ago and just decided I could make the adjustment to the L frames. Still got Dad's old M15, though ;) Read the Revolver Checkout by Jim March, and happy hunting! |
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J&G currently has 4" Smith 66's for just over $400. I can promise you..... you'll never see "trade in" 66's again (I'm actually rather shocked that they found these!). While not quite as beefy as an L frame (586/686), they're still one of my favorates. I've got 2! |
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Quoted: J&G currently has 4" Smith 66's for just over $400. I can promise you..... you'll never see "trade in" 66's again (I'm actually rather shocked that they found these!). While not quite as beefy as an L frame (586/686), they're still one of my favorates. I've got 2! $469 is a little over "just over" $400. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
J&G currently has 4" Smith 66's for just over $400. I can promise you..... you'll never see "trade in" 66's again (I'm actually rather shocked that they found these!). While not quite as beefy as an L frame (586/686), they're still one of my favorates. I've got 2! $469 is a little over "just over" $400. I could've sworn I saw 'em at $449...... whoops!
Still not a bad deal at $469....... though not quite as good as the $200 retail I bought my 66-1 for about 15 years ago. |
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exellent, I am deffenately leaning toward the S&W now. and thanks for the line on the model 66 that jg sale has, I will be looking into that.
some great options so far, but what should I look out for, what models that may look like a deal should I run from? I know to check for the obvious, timing, lock-up, nicks on the crown, ect... but any real models to stay away from? aside from ones with the hammer lock? |
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Quoted:
A good but used N frame - 27 or 28. Here's a picture of a couple of old 28's. http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii228/Schemer2/Mod282011001.jpg and a 27; http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii228/Schemer2/SW27-2007.jpg This times 1000, also, how do you like that TR-3? Been thinking about picking one up. |
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