Posted: 2/8/2015 1:11:54 AM EDT
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If you are anywhere near Dallas/Frisco, check with Dave Berryhill at Frisco Gun Club. If HE isn't there, try Gunmasters in Plano. I would not recommend McClellans or Ray's Sporting Goods, only based on what I have heard over the last 15+ years.
Then there are folks like Wilson, nd others. The web is your friend. I found just under 6 million hits by searching 1911 trigger jobs. Have at it. |
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Send it to Cylinder and Slide, You can go to Their website and see the different Fire Control Options They offer. You might want to consider having a Beaver Tail Grip Safety Installed. I get what is refered to as Hammer Bite in the Web of My Right Hand ( Gripping Hand) and it can be Painful! A Beavertail Grip Safety Eliminates Hammer Bite, Or You can stick with the Spur Hammer and Stock Grip Safety.
If You are Mechanically or Gunsmith Savy You can buy one of Their Fire Control Groups and drop it in Yourself, Cylinder and Slide Claims that Their Kits will drop right in Most 1911's with no further Work and give You a Crisp 4-5 Trigger. All of Their Trigger Kits are made from Bar Stock Steel too which is what You Want. |
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If you're into do-it-yourself, it's not hard at all, just takes patience and care. Loose/sloppy trigger can be fixed by buying an oversize trigger (like Greider etc.) for $20, and with a little bit of fitting with a fine file, problem solved. Trigger break/creep can be improved by dressing the sear with a jig like this one for $50:
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/trigger-tools/1911-sear-jig-prod1299.aspx There are numerous videos on the subject. Just make sure you go through all the safety checks when you're done. If you screw up, replacement sears are relatively cheap and you can try again. Total investment is significantly less than what a gunsmith charges, and you get the satisfaction of doing it yourself. Plus you now have the tools/knowledge to upgrade other guns. But if you're not mechanically inclined, by all means have it done by a gunsmith. |
Thanks, and yes Google returns tons of hits for 1911 trigger job, but like most other specialty people I suspect there are people out there that suck at it.
I may look into some DIY aspects of it as well. I did not think of hitting a USPA or IPSC match that could produce some good results. I have not lived in TX long, so I don't have the resources here like I did in AZ. |
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I have received great results from a Karl Lippard A3 hammer and sear (e-bay).
I have a couple of 1911's got good and BAD trigger jobs (yea; not in that order) from gunsmiths. This A3 sear and hammer you can install your self and it works great. You can adjust it via the leaf spring fingers. |
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Quoted: Send it to Cylinder and Slide, You can go to Their website and see the different Fire Control Options They offer. You might want to consider having a Beaver Tail Grip Safety Installed. I get what is refered to as Hammer Bite in the Web of My Right Hand ( Gripping Hand) and it can be Painful! A Beavertail Grip Safety Eliminates Hammer Bite, Or You can stick with the Spur Hammer and Stock Grip Safety. If You are Mechanically or Gunsmith Savy You can buy one of Their Fire Control Groups and drop it in Yourself, Cylinder and Slide Claims that Their Kits will drop right in Most 1911's with no further Work and give You a Crisp 4-5 Trigger. All of Their Trigger Kits are made from Bar Stock Steel too which is what You Want. Their fire control kits are good to go. I've recommended them to officers with all mfgs. of 1911s and I don't recall any having problems with install. The Cylinder and Slide kit I've got in my Kimber is the best trigger on any 1911 I own. |
