Quoted:
Upgrades you can do:
Grips - See VZ grips
Sights - Trijicon front and 10-8 U notch rear or just full trijicon units
Slide release - Ed Brown
Trigger - 10-8
GI guide rod setup - Ed Brown

Upgrades you should have a pro do:
Install ignition system from Ed Brown or Cylinder and Slide (hammer, sear, disconnector)
S&A MSH with Magwell  (could be done by yourself)
Front strap checkered
Re-finish

Quoted:



Grips - I like the VZ operators and allien grips.
Sights - what do you like about trijicon?  is this really something that is doable for a rookie?  I bolted together an AR but that doesn't mean I have any idea what I am doing since they are idiot proof.
Slide release - what is the advantage to a new one.  Just a different profile or does it imporve function?
trigger - why 10-8 over something else?
guide rod - does a "designer" guide improve function?

thanks for all of your recommendations.  i just like justifications so that i can learn.

Quoted:



I get what you are saying.

Sights: Not the easiest thing in the world to install, but not beyond the ability of someone with a careful hand.  If you don't feel comfortable with it and you know a decent smith they can be installed for relatively cheap.  I like Trijicon because they are the original and their hardware carries a lifetime warranty.  You could also get a set of meprolights from Kimber, but I prefer the trijicons.
Slide release: on the Custom II this is a MIM piece.  Not the sturdiest or most trusted component.  An Ed Brown all steel unit would be more reliable.  They usually have a little more material too so it's easier to manipulate.  Plus they are cheap and easy to install.
Trigger: because they are cheap, nice, and solid (ie not holes drilled in them).  There is no reason you have to upgrade your Kimber unit, but if you replace the entire ignition system it's good to replace the trigger too.
Guide rod: the Custom II has a full-length guide rod, nothing wrong will it but it adds nothing as well, a GI unit will make disassembly easy and most higher end 1911 makers use the GI system for a reason.  Nothing designer about it, Ed Brown is just one of the best companies and the parts are well priced.

Another thing to do to your Kimber is remove the swartz safety, good idea and doesn't cost much (nothing if you do it while the rear sight is removed for the night sight installation).  I'd google the swartz safety or search tis website if you don't know what it is.

Also, for a cool idea, go to Wikipedia and search MEU-SOC 1911, great idea, good project.

Thanks for the education.  

I have a couple of more questions.  

What does MIM mean?

I thought the Schwarz was a firing pin safety that kept the gun from discharging in the event that it was dropped.  Is this correct?  If so, is the justification for removing it just a reliability issue or is there another reason?  

Finally, when you say MEU-SOC project do you mean to just go through where the military got there parts and do the same thing?  Not a bad idea except I won't be buying Springfield slide.

Thanks for your help.  

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MIM - metal injection molding - look here

The swartz safety is a fix to a problem that never existed and can be a weak point on the gun.  It's a subject that doesn't have a lot of factual information unfortunately.  Most people remove the unit, but Hilton Yam left it in the 10-8 Operator pistol (orignially a Kimber Custom II, so that could be a fun project too).  It's really a personal preference, if you have the sight off you might as well remove it.

When I say MEU-SOC I just mean a clone, you can purchase all the parts the military used through Brownells and have the hard parts professionally assembled.  You don't need to have a Springfield slide to mimic the correct hardware choices.  That said, see Hilton Yam's article about the 10-8 pistol here which was originally built on Kimber Custom II pistols.