Posted: 11/14/2012 11:56:46 AM EDT
| I've decided to buy some basic AR tools and try doing some of the basic stuff myself. My question is what do I absolutely have to have and what brand is best? Here's what I have on order already: Wheeler torque wrench and a Tapco armorer wrench (generally I won't touch Tapco stuff but their wrench got great reviews). I know I need a vise block but what else? |
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the basics; not all are needed but generally all you need is a barrel wrench, barrel vice blocks and a decent set of punches
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/920248/model-1-pivot-pin-detent-installation-tool-ar-15 
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/123930/pri-barrel-nut-wrench-ar-15 
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/363683/grace-usa-roll-pin-punch-set-7-piece-steel 
or these http://www.midwayusa.com/product/925277/model-1-ar-15-armorers-punch-set-7-piece 
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/829522/model-1-armorers-action-block-with-lower-receiver-action-block-ar-15 
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/372329/model-1-barrel-vise-jaws-ar-15-aluminum 
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202214083/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=bench+vice&storeId=10051#.UKQwEeRJOfQ 
my ar kit consists of the pri wrench and irwin vice listed above, set of dpms barrel vice blocks and a set of snap on roll punches. got one each of the stoner, dpms and a noname multi wrench; and while they will get the job done; they tend to break when you are just about done with a project; so I went with the pri wrench and haven't had an issue with it yet. see where wheeler is offering a multi wrench and torque wrench set; don't know how well they'll work since I've never used them; but they'd probably work; personally don't see a need for the torque wrench for barrel installation but there are people who say it's important to torque it. |
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Roll pin punches are a great tool to have. I have the Model 1 action blocks for both upper and lower, really nice. I've got the AR Stoner multi wrench, very handy! Works for barrels, stocks, whatever you need. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/271183/ar-stoner-multi-tool-ar-15-steel I got the Model 1 pivot pin detent tool about a year back, you don't have to have it, but its a terrific tool and cheap too! |
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Quoted:
+1 for the pivot pin detent tool i bought one after I launched the detent across the room on my first build I've never used a detent tool or lost a detent and I've assembled a few lowers; I posted it above though since it seems a lot of people have trouble installing the front detent. |
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I've built quite a few lowers, I've lost a bunch of pins, and installed a bunch successfully, I've built two since I got the tool. It makes the job a LOT easier, it won't prevent you from launching a pin, but make it less likely, but it is DEFINITELY worth the $4 I paid for it! More than a couple of times I've had to stop a build and get some more detent pins, and that is a huge pain in the butt, as well as costing more than the $4 for the tool, its still a good idea to have a few extra detent pins on hand before starting a build. |
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A bench block is nice for when you think you need three or more hands to install or remove front sight pins and hold it still at the same time.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/sight-tools/ar-15-front-sight-bench-block-prod20727.aspx The only other thing is an actual torque wrench for when you attach the barrel to the receiver. |
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That's more tools than I expected but some I never even thought of.
What's the best way to remove a stock? They are staked on right? I was thinking Dremel the indentations but then how do you restake it? I'm guessing whack it with a chisel or something but I don't have one. I may hit Dan up to help me with the stock change. I'm having a custom forged lower made by Loki to mate to my Loki forged .264LBC/Grendel upper. Pink Magpul stock and trigger guard with a Giessele SSA two stage trigger so after it arrives that rifle is finished!  . I can't wait!
The stock change is for the Beowulf....still waiting on her King Armory muzzle brake to arrive  . Once the stock is swapped out and the muzzle brake put on it will be finished too!
I am sleepy now. |
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Quoted:
Get busy...why are you standing around taking pictures of a bunch of parts? I just got the last part in the mail yesterday. I still lack a BCG and charging handle.. I may get it thrown together today. I am still debating on weather or not I want to get the barrel cerakoated black. |
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Quoted:
Get busy...why are you standing around taking pictures of a bunch of parts? I just got the last part in the mail yesterday. I still lack a BCG and charging handle.. I may get it thrown together today. I am still debating on weather or not I want to get the barrel cerakoated black. I like the bead blasted finish, however if it's shiny I'd probably do something. What caliber & barrel? |
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Depends on what kind of stock it is, in most cases you just unscrew it, some need a tool, some don't. The staking is just raising a burr, you can usually power through it, if not just knock it down some, staking a new one is just raising a new burr, a chisel or punch will work most times. Quoted: That's more tools than I expected but some I never even thought of. What's the best way to remove a stock? They are staked on right? I was thinking Dremel the indentations but then how do you restake it? I'm guessing whack it with a chisel or something but I don't have one. I may hit Dan up to help me with the stock change. I'm having a custom forged lower made by Loki to mate to my Loki forged .264LBC/Grendel upper. Pink Magpul stock and trigger guard with a Giessele SSA two stage trigger so after it arrives that rifle is finished! . I can't wait! The stock change is for the Beowulf....still waiting on her King Armory muzzle brake to arrive . Once the stock is swapped out and the muzzle brake put on it will be finished too! I am sleepy now. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Get busy...why are you standing around taking pictures of a bunch of parts? I just got the last part in the mail yesterday. I still lack a BCG and charging handle.. I may get it thrown together today. I am still debating on weather or not I want to get the barrel cerakoated black. I really like the way my 6.8 barrel turned out with the black cerakote and im pretty sure that is what loki uses to coat their barrels |
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Quoted:
Depends on what kind of stock it is, in most cases you just unscrew it, some need a tool, some don't. The staking is just raising a burr, you can usually power through it, if not just knock it down some, staking a new one is just raising a new burr, a chisel or punch will work most times. Quoted:
That's more tools than I expected but some I never even thought of. What's the best way to remove a stock? They are staked on right? I was thinking Dremel the indentations but then how do you restake it? I'm guessing whack it with a chisel or something but I don't have one. I may hit Dan up to help me with the stock change. I'm having a custom forged lower made by Loki to mate to my Loki forged .264LBC/Grendel upper. Pink Magpul stock and trigger guard with a Giessele SSA two stage trigger so after it arrives that rifle is finished! . I can't wait!
The stock change is for the Beowulf....still waiting on her King Armory muzzle brake to arrive . Once the stock is swapped out and the muzzle brake put on it will be finished too!
I am sleepy now. It's an A2 stock which is going to be replaced with a Magpul CTR. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Get busy...why are you standing around taking pictures of a bunch of parts? I just got the last part in the mail yesterday. I still lack a BCG and charging handle.. I may get it thrown together today. I am still debating on weather or not I want to get the barrel cerakoated black. I really like the way my 6.8 barrel turned out with the black cerakote and im pretty sure that is what loki uses to coat their barrels Well I went ahead and got it put together or Steve did I should say. It looks pretty good other than the A2 flash hider. I have one on my 16 inch gun and it looks alright but this one not so much. |
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If you plan on powering through it and are using a DPMS wrench don't hold the lower by the grip. You will rip the skin off your knuckles when it finally comes loose. I have a picture of the damage that was done if you guys are interested. lol Quoted: Depends on what kind of stock it is, in most cases you just unscrew it, some need a tool, some don't. The staking is just raising a burr, you can usually power through it, if not just knock it down some, staking a new one is just raising a new burr, a chisel or punch will work most times. Quoted: That's more tools than I expected but some I never even thought of. What's the best way to remove a stock? They are staked on right? I was thinking Dremel the indentations but then how do you restake it? I'm guessing whack it with a chisel or something but I don't have one. I may hit Dan up to help me with the stock change. I'm having a custom forged lower made by Loki to mate to my Loki forged .264LBC/Grendel upper. Pink Magpul stock and trigger guard with a Giessele SSA two stage trigger so after it arrives that rifle is finished! . I can't wait! The stock change is for the Beowulf....still waiting on her King Armory muzzle brake to arrive . Once the stock is swapped out and the muzzle brake put on it will be finished too! I am sleepy now. |
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Quoted:
If you plan on powering through it and are using a DPMS wrench don't hold the lower by the grip. You will rip the skin off your knuckles when it finally comes loose. I have a picture of the damage that was done if you guys are interested. lol Quoted:
Depends on what kind of stock it is, in most cases you just unscrew it, some need a tool, some don't. The staking is just raising a burr, you can usually power through it, if not just knock it down some, staking a new one is just raising a new burr, a chisel or punch will work most times. Quoted:
That's more tools than I expected but some I never even thought of. What's the best way to remove a stock? They are staked on right? I was thinking Dremel the indentations but then how do you restake it? I'm guessing whack it with a chisel or something but I don't have one. I may hit Dan up to help me with the stock change. I'm having a custom forged lower made by Loki to mate to my Loki forged .264LBC/Grendel upper. Pink Magpul stock and trigger guard with a Giessele SSA two stage trigger so after it arrives that rifle is finished! . I can't wait!
The stock change is for the Beowulf....still waiting on her King Armory muzzle brake to arrive . Once the stock is swapped out and the muzzle brake put on it will be finished too!
I am sleepy now. Pics of the knuckles!!!! Ouch!!! |
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Quoted: It's an A2 stock which is going to be replaced with a Magpul CTR. The A2 is the easy one, there's a big screw at the top of the butplate, take that out and the stock comes off, easy as that! To install the CTR you will have to replace the buffer tube, the buffer and spring. The buffer tube on the CTR is shorter than the A2 stock. Make sure to note if you get a mil spec buffer tube or commercial, the stock will need to be ordered to match. When you remove the stock don't lose the rear detent spring, the stock retains it and when the stock comes off it can fall out. The buffer tube just unscrews from the lower receiver, super easy. You will need a carbine stock wrench to tighten the nut on the buffer tube when it is installed, see the multi purpose tool I posted in my earlier post, the nut is sold separately from the buffer tube, and can be staked or just use LocTite to keep it from coming loose. I have a CTR stock on my 300 blk AR.  |
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This is one of the handiest tools for building an AR, well worth the $16.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/bolt-tools/dissassembly-tools/bolt-catch-pin-punch-prod26484.aspx If any of you are in the Tulsa area Fat Boy Tactical in Bixby stocks a lot of tools and parts for building AR's. |
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Quoted: This is one of the handiest tools for building an AR, well worth the $16. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/bolt-tools/dissassembly-tools/bolt-catch-pin-punch-prod26484.aspx If any of you are in the Tulsa area Fat Boy Tactical in Bixby stocks a lot of tools and parts for building AR's. These are the two roll pin punches to build a lower, while not slab sided, they are a lot cheaper and work just fine. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=5551/Product/ROLL_PIN_PUNCHES 3/32 is #3 Roll pin punch (for bolt release pin) item #230-100-003 #3 Roll Pin Punch $4.49 1/8 is #4 Roll pin punch (for trigger guard pin) item #230-100-004 #4 Roll Pin Punch $4.49 |