Posted: 7/24/2011 11:08:27 AM EDT
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Anyone now where I can purchase Break Free CLP in bulk in the Anchorage area?
Thanks |
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Great Northern off of Tudor has the 4oz bottles. I remember buying some there, and then going to Northern Security where I believe it was a little cheaper.
Never seen it at Sportsmans Warehouse. Sports Authority may have had it, but I think I've only seen the spray stuff. |
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Quoted:
Anyone now where I can purchase Break Free CLP in bulk in the Anchorage area? Thanks Lots of places carry it as you have seen. But there is a lot of better products out there. Products that try to clean and lube seldom do either well. For solvent and cleaning I recommend Shooters choice. For lube I recommend 30 weight motor oil. I use 5W30 that is left over from my oil changes. If you live in Fairbanks where it gets cold ATF works fine. (Automatic transmission fluid) Motor oil does not burn off nearly as fast as gun oil and its far cheaper. Much better all around. Pat |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Anyone now where I can purchase Break Free CLP in bulk in the Anchorage area? Thanks Lots of places carry it as you have seen. But there is a lot of better products out there. Products that try to clean and lube seldom do either well. For solvent and cleaning I recommend Shooters choice. For lube I recommend 30 weight motor oil. I use 5W30 that is left over from my oil changes. If you live in Fairbanks where it gets cold ATF works fine. (Automatic transmission fluid) Motor oil does not burn off nearly as fast as gun oil and its far cheaper. Much better all around. Pat ATF is pretty much the best all around lube out there. It's highly refined and can withstand high temps. It's pretty much the only thing my father uses in his gunsmith shop. ETA: That being said, I love CLP. Only place that I've seen in town that sells it in quantity is Ammo Can. |
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I bought some ATF for this reason but havent tried it out yet. Been using WD-40 is a spray bottle and it works great. I clean with it and use it to lube and it's great. Cheap too. I hear people bitch that it's a horrible lube for guns and this and that. I figure all the guys out on the line shooting their $10-40k machine guns wouldn't be using it if was bad. |
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WD-40 is a water displacing lubricant. It may work just dandy at first, but has poor preservation aspects and under heat and time will eventually turn to shellac.'' You could just use motor oil as well. But weapons lubricants are generally formulated with specific properties that are not made to treat a rusty bolt or car engine. The requirements are just not the same. So if you want a product that is best formulated to best clean, lube, and preserve firearms, you would do better with the proper products. Spit is a fine lube in some situations, but not all and not ideal. Same goes for other non-firearms lubes.
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I use CLP for final clean and lube, but always start with a WD-40 rinse-off. WD works especially well as a cleaner with the little red tube in the hard to reach chamber lugs area on ARs. If your firearms are properly lubed with firearms quality oil or grease, after firing what you have to clean off is a combination of oil and carbon. WD dissolves 90% it right off with just a spray, which keeps the quantity of the expensive CLP or whatever down to minimum.
Heck, I don;t even buy brand name WD, just the cheap Walmart generic stuff. |
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WD-40 is not a great idea for firearms. It removes rust, and since bluing is rust, it is really not very good for the finish on blued rifles. On parkerized metal, it won't hurt the finish, of course. It is also quicker to soak into wood stocks and make them mushy. One thing about WD-40 is that it does not compress like most lubes can. If you use it in your bore or chamber, it can cause problems. I have seen the guys using WD-40 have dents in their brass from it, and in the bore it can raise the pressures. I grew up in SE Alaska where everything rusts and lots of people used WD-40 on their firearms. I heard a lot about people having actions messed up from firing with that stuff in the bore. It may have been a factor with a guy I worked with whose thumb was removed by his Remington 700 bolt. I can always tell when I work on a rifle that has had WD-40 run on it for years, because they are always the worst looking, nastiest, gunked-up rifles I touch. CLP has always worked well for me, and I like Militec, but it does not prevent rust quite as well as CLP, but I am sure there are some better products designed for firearms now. There are a few I want to try.
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I don't shoot and leave it in there. I will spray the BCG before firing, then when /if needed. When i get home i strip everything and spray all the parts down to get the carbon off, then wipe/scrub parts clean. Reassembly with parts still lubed but not dripping. I have run different lubes and dry and in the cold some have gummed up so bad the action wouldn't move. When i was shooting the corrosive ammo i would forget to clean it right after i got home and then next day or so i would have to bang the bolt out. Rust would be on the bolt and chamber. Started using WD because it was all i had in my truck and i can shoot corrosive now and have left it up to 3 weeks before taking it back out again, pull the charging handle and it's still like butter. I don't intentionally spray it in the chamber but i know it gets in there. I don't really shoot bolt guns and really wouldn't need to spray it on them. I know my dad used to spray his old shotguns before putting them away after the season and they still looks and function perfectly. You don't need to dunk the whole gun in it, just a light spray on the metal parts. Also noticed the gallon jug you cn pour out of is better then the spray can. |
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Also, the tactical-type rifles are more forgiving than sporting rifles, with better finishes, too. They are easier to disassemble and clean correctly. The guys in SE tended to put the WD-40 in the bores on purpose to prevent rust. It made a big cloud of smoke that stings your eyes, too. It is the hunting rifles and shotguns, especially pumps, levers, and semis that really get bad. Corrosive ammo is definitely a consideration.
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Corrosive used to be a PITA. I forgot to clean my AR one day after shooting a few hundred tok suppressed. I left it in the case for a week or 2. The bolt was locked closed, the QD mount was rusted to the barrel and the Can to the QD mount. The corrosion on the QD mount was so bad i had to toss it. Even using windex after shooting i'd still get rust. Hoppes was good but only came in the tiny bottles without spending a ton. For the amount i used to clean the guns i wanted something cheaper. Now i clean and lube basically everything on my AR with WD and i haven't had ANY rusting, pitting, and havent broken any parts in a long time. It's one thing i will not go to the range without. |