Posted: 7/14/2010 10:56:05 AM EDT
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I have GSP issue glock 22. When I empty the mag and put a new mag in and then drop the slide, the trigger does not reset. if i manually push the trigger forward and then drop the slide everything is ok.
Anyone have any suggestions? |
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Quoted: When the whole gun goes forward as opposed to just the slide it resets NORMALLY, in my experiance an as told to me in armorer school low these many years ago. I very well could be wrong...or it could be an Austrian rural legend... Or... I'm really curious now. OP can you drop the slide on a mag with snapcaps while shaking the gun forward to see if that resets it? (if you're really masochistic, video yourself doing this). The energy of the slide moving forward should be relatively equal whether the slide is dropped by hand or by recoil. All the energy is coming from the spring. |
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During actuall firing, recoil brings the frame to the rear prior to the slide returning forward. It's been a while but I seem to remember doing it dry... Try it without a mag or with a snap cap and fully cycle the slide as the slide's rearward motion may be the key.
I can not break mine out to try it at the moment with out some folkes shitting themselves ;-) |
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The Glock Armorers will be at River Bend Gun Club this Saturday and Sunday for the Glock Ballistic Challenge. You can go have them fix your 22 and then shoot the match! Nice screen name.  yeah, I was going to use that one too, nah not really just tryin to build my build my count so I can sale on GON |
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Quoted: Replace with NY#1 trigger spring and add a 3.5# connector, and you'll be glad you did. explain My friend and fellow instructor Dave Maglio is a Glock fan. His department issues him something else to wear in uniform, but he almost always has a privately owned Glock for off-duty carry. When he became the 17th IDPA Four-Gun Master, he did it with a Glock 17 9mm in Stock Service Pistol and Enhanced Service Pistol class, and a .45 caliber Glock 21 in Custom Defense Pistol against the short trigger pull 1911 autos. "Hell," he said, "I would have used a Glock instead of a Ruger GP-100 for Stock Service Revolver if Glock made a wheel gun."  One of Dave's pet peeves is people who complain that the Glock trigger pull is too light. It comes out of the box with a nominal five-pound pull. This upsets some folks who think of that in terms of double action revolvers and autos with pull weights in the 12- and 14-pound range. "People are missing the reality," says Dave. "Think in terms of human engineering. The Glock trigger-pull weights are apparently taken at the tip of the trigger. It's a pivoting trigger design, so the leverage is greater there, and the pull-weight seems less." He explains, "Look at how people actually shoot Glocks. Their index finger is on the middle of the trigger, where the safely lever is, not at the toe. The middle of the trigger is where we should be taking the measurement. It weighs out heavier there." I proposed an experiment. Dave broke out his Glock armorer's kit and a trigger-pull gauge, and I unloaded the Black Hills 165-grain EXP .40 S&W ammo from the Glock 22 I was carrying. He then installed every reasonable combination we could think of, and weighed the triggers with each at the toe, and again at the center of the trigger. Three Gets You Five Glock sells the 3.5-pound connector only with the 6-inch barreled longslide target pistols and in the Tactical/Practical series with 5.3-inch barrels. These are respectively the Glock 17L and 34 in 9mm Luger and the G24 and G35 in .40 S&W. There is a long history of Glock factory literature adamantly stating that these trigger pulls are for competition, not duty or defensive carry. Every American police department that I know of which has adopted the G34 or G35 for issue has fielded it with a heavier trigger pull. Measured at the toe of the trigger, the nominal 3.5-pound connector with standard trigger spring actually weighed three pounds, 3.7 ounces. Measured at the center of the trigger, however, it tripped at five pounds, 1.3 ounces. Some Glock aficionados think the trick set-up is the 3.5-pound connector with the New York Trigger (NY-1) module replacing the standard S-shaped trigger spring. This gives a firm resistance from the beginning of the pull. The real, often unrecognized benefit of the NY Trigger is a smooth, easy pull that is generally estimated at a bit over five pounds. In fact, it measured six pounds 0.5 ounces at the toe of the trigger, and eight pounds even at the center. This system is reportedly standard with a Midwestern state police department that issues Glocks. The Five-Pound Connection The five-pound connector mated with the standard trigger spring is what comes out of the box when a private citizen buys most models of Glocks. It is said to have an average pull of 5.5 pounds. In measuring this combo on my G22, Dave got four pounds, 1.5 ounces when the gauge was hooked to the toe of the trigger, and six pounds on the nose when he attached it to the center of the trigger. Then the threw in the NY-1 module, which is what I had in the gun to start with along with the nominally five-pound connector. It went six pounds, 1.1 ounces at the toe, seven pounds 1.5 ounces from the center. This combo is normally expected to bring pull weight up to eight pounds or so. However, I've shot this gnu a lot and worn it in well. With the NY-2, or New York Plus module in place, which is said to deliver a pull of close to 12 pounds, we got eight pounds 1.1 ounces at the toe and 10 pounds even measuring from the center of the trigger. Finally, with the so-called "Miami trigger"––an eight-pound connector and the standard spring––the pull measured six pounds six ounces at the toe and 10 pounds even at the center. The bottom line? As with all pistols, individual Glock pulls may weigh more or less than specified, or anywhere within the specified range. The pulls are indeed heavier at the center-where most of us actually put our finger-than at the tip. It was an interesting experiment, but I'll still keep the NY-1 module with five-pound connector in all the several Glocks I own for self-defense. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Replace with NY#1 trigger spring and add a 3.5# connector, and you'll be glad you did. explain My friend and fellow instructor Dave Maglio is a Glock fan. His department issues him something else to wear in uniform, but he almost always has a privately owned Glock for off-duty carry. When he became the 17th IDPA Four-Gun Master, he did it with a Glock 17 9mm in Stock Service Pistol and Enhanced Service Pistol class, and a .45 caliber Glock 21 in Custom Defense Pistol against the short trigger pull 1911 autos. "Hell," he said, "I would have used a Glock instead of a Ruger GP-100 for Stock Service Revolver if Glock made a wheel gun."http://dw.com.com/redir?tag=rbxira.2.a.10&destUrl=http://www.cnet.com/b.gif
One of Dave's pet peeves is people who complain that the Glock trigger pull is too light. It comes out of the box with a nominal five-pound pull. This upsets some folks who think of that in terms of double action revolvers and autos with pull weights in the 12- and 14-pound range. "People are missing the reality," says Dave. "Think in terms of human engineering. The Glock trigger-pull weights are apparently taken at the tip of the trigger. It's a pivoting trigger design, so the leverage is greater there, and the pull-weight seems less."
He explains, "Look at how people actually shoot Glocks. Their index finger is on the middle of the trigger, where the safely lever is, not at the toe. The middle of the trigger is where we should be taking the measurement. It weighs out heavier there."
I proposed an experiment. Dave broke out his Glock armorer's kit and a trigger-pull gauge, and I unloaded the Black Hills 165-grain EXP .40 S&W ammo from the Glock 22 I was carrying. He then installed every reasonable combination we could think of, and weighed the triggers with each at the toe, and again at the center of the trigger.
Three Gets You Five
Glock sells the 3.5-pound connector only with the 6-inch barreled longslide target pistols and in the Tactical/Practical series with 5.3-inch barrels. These are respectively the Glock 17L and 34 in 9mm Luger and the G24 and G35 in .40 S&W. There is a long history of Glock factory literature adamantly stating that these trigger pulls are for competition, not duty or defensive carry. Every American police department that I know of which has adopted the G34 or G35 for issue has fielded it with a heavier trigger pull.
Measured at the toe of the trigger, the nominal 3.5-pound connector with standard trigger spring actually weighed three pounds, 3.7 ounces. Measured at the center of the trigger, however, it tripped at five pounds, 1.3 ounces.
Some Glock aficionados think the trick set-up is the 3.5-pound connector with the New York Trigger (NY-1) module replacing the standard S-shaped trigger spring. This gives a firm resistance from the beginning of the pull. The real, often unrecognized benefit of the NY Trigger is a smooth, easy pull that is generally estimated at a bit over five pounds. In fact, it measured six pounds 0.5 ounces at the toe of the trigger, and eight pounds even at the center. This system is reportedly standard with a Midwestern state police department that issues Glocks.
The Five-Pound Connection
The five-pound connector mated with the standard trigger spring is what comes out of the box when a private citizen buys most models of Glocks. It is said to have an average pull of 5.5 pounds. In measuring this combo on my G22, Dave got four pounds, 1.5 ounces when the gauge was hooked to the toe of the trigger, and six pounds on the nose when he attached it to the center of the trigger.
Then the threw in the NY-1 module, which is what I had in the gun to start with along with the nominally five-pound connector. It went six pounds, 1.1 ounces at the toe, seven pounds 1.5 ounces from the center. This combo is normally expected to bring pull weight up to eight pounds or so. However, I've shot this gnu a lot and worn it in well.
With the NY-2, or New York Plus module in place, which is said to deliver a pull of close to 12 pounds, we got eight pounds 1.1 ounces at the toe and 10 pounds even measuring from the center of the trigger. Finally, with the so-called "Miami trigger"––an eight-pound connector and the standard spring––the pull measured six pounds six ounces at the toe and 10 pounds even at the center.
The bottom line? As with all pistols, individual Glock pulls may weigh more or less than specified, or anywhere within the specified range. The pulls are indeed heavier at the center-where most of us actually put our finger-than at the tip. It was an interesting experiment, but I'll still keep the NY-1 module with five-pound connector in all the several Glocks I own for self-defense.
NY#1 with 3.5 connector is the best practical trigger combination you can get with drop in parts. Consistent pull everytime as well as same reset every time. No slack either way in the trigger. It's not about the lightness of the pull, rather the consistent breaking point at which one can train to learn. |
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NY#1 with 3.5 connector is the best practical trigger combination you can get with drop in parts. Consistent pull everytime as well as same reset every time. No slack either way in the trigger. It's not about the lightness of the pull, rather the consistent breaking point at which one can train to learn. The consitency and immediacy of the Glock trigger reset is legendary. I learned how to shoot with that silent sproing reset cue. |
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+1 on the NY1 and 3.5 with one stipulation, from my experiance when I was shooting it a bunch this combo was awesome but when I put the glock down for a couple months the standard setup was easier to use from a cold start. FYI for you rich guys who rotate through multiple platforms.
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Quoted: You need to shoot my novak 1911 someday. NY#1 with 3.5 connector is the best practical trigger combination you can get with drop in parts. Consistent pull everytime as well as same reset every time. No slack either way in the trigger. It's not about the lightness of the pull, rather the consistent breaking point at which one can train to learn. The consitency and immediacy of the Glock trigger reset is legendary. I learned how to shoot with that silent sproing reset cue. |
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Replace with NY#1 trigger spring and add a 3.5# connector, and you'll be glad you did. Do i have a 5.0 connector now? Don't know much about working on glocks. I'm sure i can figure it out though. I'm almost done with my 1911 build with a fitted beavertial. |
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Quoted: Quoted: You need to shoot my novak 1911 someday. NY#1 with 3.5 connector is the best practical trigger combination you can get with drop in parts. Consistent pull everytime as well as same reset every time. No slack either way in the trigger. It's not about the lightness of the pull, rather the consistent breaking point at which one can train to learn. The consitency and immediacy of the Glock trigger reset is legendary. I learned how to shoot with that silent sproing reset cue. Indeed, or mine. Now this is a trigger!. Wifes fancy nancy Glock trigger was ok to her till she shot her new 1911. She stopped put down the weapon and smiled. OMG, she says, so this is what you have been talking about for so long, it's beautiful.(the trigger pull at exactly 3.5lbs) Same thing with my M&P.45 I just sold. It just was not consistent enough or light enough no matter what I did. I do have one friend who has a Glock .45 fullsize that was a superb trigger, best I have ever shot on a tupperware gun. It was a police trade in that had been redone. If he can find me another and do it the same way I would seriously consider buying one with it's match grade barrel & night sights. |
| I can tell you that my Glock 22 does not operate like that. My trigger resets with just dropping the slide release. One time I had a lighter trigger spring installed on my gun because a buddy convinced me to. After doing that, I had the same issue you are haivng now. I put the factory trigger spring back in, and it fixed it right away. I would bring it to Glock in Symrna and have them replace the trigger spring for free. That would be my guess. |
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As has been said, more than likely a broken trigger spring. Simple fix.
The trigger resets during normal fire because your finger is on the trigger holding it to the rear. This gives enough lift on the mechanism that it catches as the slide cycles and the trigger resets. Since your finger is (hopefully) not on the trigger pulling it to the rear when you change mags, it's not resetting. You can test that quickly with an empty gun. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Replace with NY#1 trigger spring and add a 3.5# connector, and you'll be glad you did. Do i have a 5.0 connector now? Don't know much about working on glocks. I'm sure i can figure it out though. I'm almost done with my 1911 build with a fitted beavertial. What model do you have? Most are shipped with the 5# connector, yes. |