Posted: 7/24/2013 8:05:27 PM EDT
| Ok guys I was wondering if 1/2" Hardox 400 would be ok to use as a steel silhouette/circle target that is stationary while receiving .30 cal, .223, 6mm, etc rounds? Should I bump up to Hardox 500 or Faralloy 500 or T1 steel and what thickness? Anyone know of any guides/resources that would be helpful in building your own steel target, etc? Largest caliber I would be shooting would be .30 |
| It would probably be cheaper, and easier to simply order AR500 plates from JCSteel targets. They are a Washington State business, and a great place to buy steel. I used to cobble together stands until I finally figured out it was cheaper to simply buy the stands from them. I have searched quite a bit, and haven't found anywhere that has cheaper AR500 steel targets. I have no financial interest in their company, just want to acknowledge a good product at a great price. |
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Quoted:
Is AR500 similar to Hardox 500 (hardness, etc.)? I looked up their hardness, and it would seem the number in their name refers directly to their hardness value, and thus yes they are similar - references: http://www.cliftonsteel.com/tensalloy-blue-ar500.html http://www.ssab.com/Global/Hardox/Datasheets/en/152_HARDOX_500_UK_Data%20Sheet.pdf I don't know anything about this subject though :p |
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Quoted:
I looked up their hardness, and it would seem the number in their name refers directly to their hardness value, and thus yes they are similar - references: http://www.cliftonsteel.com/tensalloy-blue-ar500.html http://www.ssab.com/Global/Hardox/Datasheets/en/152_HARDOX_500_UK_Data%20Sheet.pdf I don't know anything about this subject though :p Quoted:
Quoted:
Is AR500 similar to Hardox 500 (hardness, etc.)? I looked up their hardness, and it would seem the number in their name refers directly to their hardness value, and thus yes they are similar - references: http://www.cliftonsteel.com/tensalloy-blue-ar500.html http://www.ssab.com/Global/Hardox/Datasheets/en/152_HARDOX_500_UK_Data%20Sheet.pdf I don't know anything about this subject though :p I was planning on using Hardox 500 1/2" thk. for my target. I would be shooting at a minimum of 150-200 yards. |
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From what I've read (no experience) that should hold up fine at that distance. Just don't try it below 100 yards with the larger end of the calibers you wanted to try or it'll probably start leaving permanent damage.
As an aside, looking up this stuff I ended up watching a video on AP ammo that was interesting but won't really help you - http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=hzYH8ap1TDo |
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I went with Hardox 500 for my targets, 3/8". From what I read Hardox 500 was comp or better than AR500.
http://www.ar15.com/mobile/topic.html?b=9&f=3&t=229189 You can see my pics towards the bottom. For the rifle more permanent setup, I pounded the t-posts into the ground. Pistol, I used the bases. Had them made locally for cheaper than I could find anywhere on the web. |
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Before you do your testing, check the bullets of all your ammo with a magnet. Even if they aren't AP, if they attract a magnet, that means that they have some ferrous content in the bullet. Even a mild steel jacket between the lead and copper jacket will pock mark AR500 and can ruin it. Usually, any bullet that is non ferrous, and going less than about 4000 FPS won't damage the AR500, and I figure your steel will perform just as well.
If you shoot something really hot on your steel, you will get a little dimpling. The kind of things that makes the steel unsafe are the pock marks that have jagged steel coming out of the plate. As long as you can run your bare hands over the steel without snagging anything, the minor dimples are not a problem. It is the deep craters with jagged edges that will snag your fingers that cause problems. |