Posted: 3/22/2010 11:33:24 AM EDT
| I think I am going to go with a 14.5" barrel on my next build, but before I start down that path wanted to get some input on what I might expect in terms of cost to make it legal (i.e. non-NFA). From any of your experiences, what kind of price tag (ballpark) would I be looking at to have a smith permanently attach a FH on a barrel locally in central AR? Also, who would you guys recommend for doing this kind of work? |
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Quoted: Its easy. I think its the build it yourself forum that has an easy how to on this. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile If you have a drill press and a welder.  Never had anything done in that area, but you can mail it off and have it done for 30 from Adco. Thus I wouldn't pay more than that. |
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Quoted: alexander arms has a glue kit. ¿que? ETA: to explain myself.... The ATF only recognizes 2 ways to permanently attach a muzzle device. One way is to pin and weld, the other is silver solder. I can't imagine any kind of 'glue' being tough enough to pass muster. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
alexander arms has a glue kit. ¿que? ETA: to explain myself.... The ATF only recognizes 2 ways to permanently attach a muzzle device. One way is to pin and weld, the other is silver solder. I can't imagine any kind of 'glue' being tough enough to pass muster. They warn that the flash hider will be permanently affixed. |
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The most popular .50 Beowulf® Rifle offered by Alexander Arms is the .50 Beowulf® Entry Rifle. It has an A3 forged flat-top upper receiver with Picatinny rail. The barrel is sixteen-inch chrome moly with a 1 in 19 right hand twist. The gas system is mid-length with A2 style clam-shell hanguards with heat shields. The gas block is a picatinny rail-type gas block, ready for the installation of a front sight. All .50 Beowulf® Rifles and uppers come furnished with a 7-round magazine. The magazine is the size of a USGI 20-round 5.56MM magazine. The muzzle comes crowned on the Entry Rifle and it is an option to add a factory muzzle brake. The Alexander Arms Muzzle Brake is installed with an anaerobic adhesive and set-screws.
http://m4gery.com/?p=23 |
I pinned and welded my $275 11.5"/5.5" hider beater, it isn't hard. Any joe with a mig can tack weld it. All you can really screw up is drilling too deep, a bit with a stop solves that. I even used a cordless drill.
I put the barrel in a vice, put the hider on, centerpunched the hider, used a bit with a stop, and slow speed on the drill with a little oil. I drilled through the hider into the threaded portion of the barrel to correct depth, pulled it apart and cleaned up the shavings. I fingered the hider over the threads a few times to be sure it didn't need a die run over it, tapped the hole, and put in a set screw. Then I roughed up a 1/4" area around the screw with a dremel, masked the area, and put a tack weld on top. I toothpicked a drop of duracoat on the weld and called it good. It looks identical to my 14.5" with the "factory" job. |