Posted: 3/3/2004 2:56:49 AM EDT
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If all our efforts pan out, we should plan a build party/break in session. I'll buy the Coke. Even though our senators were "No" votes already, I called them yesterday. It was good to find that even though they were already on our side, people were still trying to get through to them- it took a few calls. -Hobbit |
Cool. I'll bring the bong and maybe some crack.  I was thinking the same thing about a build party. I think we should also have a group shoot that weekend with all our newly configured toys. 
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The bayonet comment brings up a question: are bayonets specific for flash hiders or barrel diameters, or is there standardization? If I'm going to have a lug, I might as well make use of it. I guess I should have asked this one to the guys at CE, but here goes: I was watching a few of the folks there shoot double taps and long strings of rapid fire with what appeaed to be good control out of 16 inch rifles. With my 20 inch HBAR resting on the bench, it looks like the sight picture jumps around too much for me to even try it. What do you do to get all tactical like that? There must be some technique thing I'm missing. I think a better trigger might help as well. -Hobbit |
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Sorry, I no workie on FALs. That would be zzxx99 or P806. Actually, if you didn't hear yet, zzxx99 is starting a gunsmithing business. In fact, he's already got the license. I've seen lots of his work, on ARs, 1911s and his latest FAL project. I'm going to have him build me a FAL in a month or so (depending on funds). You may want to talk to him; I'm sure he can help ya out with your builds. |
The trigger is not the issue. ARH and I use stock triggers. We learned in our Dave Harrington and Ken Hackathorn classes to keep your shoulders more square to the target. Place the buttstock in the "pocket" between your shoulder and your tit. Keep your head and body in a forward position (I try to keep my head slightly out front of my feet). The vertical pistol grip also helps me control the rifle. Kind of like the push-pull technique of holding a pistol, I do the same thing with a rifle. ARH is a lot better at the double taps than I am though. Ask for his opinions and comments. (Then again, I don't think he really knows how he does it.  )Regarding bayonets, I think I need to get one too. I also don't know a lot about them. I do know the bayo lub is part of the Front Sight Base. If you buy a new FSB you'll need it drilled for the taper pins. That's a service I won't tackle. |
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With my trigger, the "return" is odd. I can't describe it well except to say that you nearly have to get off the trigger completely to get it it to start returning, then it jumps back into place with authority. Maybe some judicious polishing would help. [BTW-I took everything completely apart after we got back, and the new spring is looking much better than the old one.] I'll have to try the stock position thing next time I get to go out. I've got a vertical grip sitting in the closet, but it looked funny hung on my rifle.... about what it would have looked like stuck on your Varminter upper. I do think that it will help considerably on the 16 incher that I plan on putting together. -Hobbit |
I am no expert, but I will gladly tey to help. Stance, body mass, and an isometric grip are all important. I will show you what works for me at the next CE we go to. ARH |
Some of us already got their parts waiting for them at their parents house. Besides, you think you're gonna find any dealers that will cut you much of a deal? Think about it. Supply and demand. The demand is already starting (based on some people, including vendors, with whom I've spoken). Supply is going to start getting a little scarce I believe. Anyone care to guess how long you'll have to wait for a barrel to be threaded by someone like Kurt? Wouldn't it suck to send Kurt a barrel, have it sit in his shop for three or four months and in that time have another ban voted in place? |
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Can a post ban barrel be threaded? I was reading somewhere that they were too small in diameter, I could be wrong. Anyhow, if "we" get a barrel threader die, I don't see why we couldn't do it ourselves, it cant be too expensive for the die but the lathe or whatever else we need may be a problem. All we'd need is someone with some knowledge in threading. I'm just thinking of ways we can get it done quickly without having to do without our AR's for too long. |
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Good idea. I've actually talked to zzxx99 about threading. You can buy everything needed from Brownell's. I'm also hoping we can do some of this work ourselves. I have an A2 20" post-ban I'm willing to offer up as the test case. Worst case scenario (if we screw it up), I send the barrel off to be cut down and threaded by Kurt. Regarding post-ban barrels, I don't believe it's a problem to thread M4-profile barrels. (Anyone know this for sure? I'm almost positive about it.) I also believe HBARs are not a problem. I know several people who have had Kurt and others turn down a barrel profile AND thread it on HBARs. |
Leave both eyes open and shoot. better periphial and field of view. works for me, till a high power scope is attached. |
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zzxx99 should be about ready with everything he needs. For his first FAL build he had borrowed tools and some knowledge from P806. The story I heard was that the two guys were talking about FAL builds and the next thing you know P806 had boxed up all his tools and shipped them to zzxx99. How cool is that? |
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FAL builds: P806 is the master, I'm merely the student. It is way more a gunsmith project than an AR 'bolt-together' build. Since I'm now a big fan of the FAL system, I'll be buying my own tool set soon. P806 was very generous with his time and knowledge - thanks, Dennis! AR barrel threading: There's many ways to do this. First off, a lathe is needed to turn the muzzle down to the thread diameter (0.50" IIRC). Then threads need to be cut. This can be done with a custom die guide and die, or machine cut on a lathe. Then the finished product needs to be reparked. Given the above, this ain't a shadetree mechanic job. Yes, I'm looking into the setup required to do this. the_reject: email me what you're working on... "thoroughly extreme" ?? But I'm not Tactical, like some of the Operators here.
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Guilty as charged, I guess.  tr, email inbound per your PM. Biz is called Polite Society. Read my sig quote. I wanted something covert, like Bushmaster's "Quality Parts Inc.", but without the Wile E. Coyote sound to it. And the message is exactly what I believe regarding gun rights. |
Trigger manipulation has an effect but not as much as it does with handguns. I'm not real big on vertical grips but BH is on target here with recoil management. Before the vertical grips became common using the magwell worked in just the same manner. The other issue often overlooked is the A2 stock. It was incorporated to better the scores of enlisted personel and is most effective from the prone, bladed or bench position. I dumped the A2 stock for the A1 that is 5/8" shorter allowing me a better mount and check weld from most reality based shooting positions. A collapsable stock will help in a better squared off mount. Though fully collapsed and an LE entry length stock are for the most part worthless for people not wearing body armor. Find what works for you. But you can find an A1 stock to experiment with for about $20 shipped from Midwest Tactical sometimes who advertises in the exchange section. I love mine. The benefits for me outweighed losing the trap door. |