Posted: 12/16/2008 7:21:20 AM EDT
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Looking for some one who does Duracoat or KG coat in KC area
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There's a place in Olathe that does cerakoting. It's called ultracoatings, llc. I don't know if they duracoat but offer a couple of other finishes as well. They are great guys to deal with and I recommend them.
http://www.ultracoatingsinc.com/contact.html There's a link on the left side of this page "certified finishers". http://www.lauerweaponry.com/ Happy hunting! ETA: I forgot about this place but couldn't find anything about them on a google search. I found this in the google cached pages so I don't know if they are still in business. Number is at the bottom. Larson tactical, Harrisonville, MO |
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If you are close to US GUNS in Gladstone, ask Alan about Herb Sr. He likes to Duracoat and does a good job. And remember...US GUNS has moved...but only about 7 doors down from where they were. Bigger store, lots more space. Stop by and see them. Yeah, when are they going to be open? It seems they have been closed for quite a while now. |
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If you are close to US GUNS in Gladstone, ask Alan about Herb Sr. He likes to Duracoat and does a good job. And remember...US GUNS has moved...but only about 7 doors down from where they were. Bigger store, lots more space. Stop by and see them. After having used KG for so long and seeing the several rifles and firearms a year or so after a Duracote job, you couldn't pay me to put duracote on my rifle. The "dura" in duracote is filled with much fail. Just my .02! 
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If you are close to US GUNS in Gladstone, ask Alan about Herb Sr. He likes to Duracoat and does a good job. And remember...US GUNS has moved...but only about 7 doors down from where they were. Bigger store, lots more space. Stop by and see them. After having used KG for so long and seeing the several rifles and firearms a year or so after a Duracote job, you couldn't pay me to put duracote on my rifle. The "dura" in duracote is filled with much fail. Just my .02! I'll get back to you in another 6 months, and let you know how the Duracoat on my AR is holding up. You may be right, but it's too early to tell. |
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If you are close to US GUNS in Gladstone, ask Alan about Herb Sr. He likes to Duracoat and does a good job. And remember...US GUNS has moved...but only about 7 doors down from where they were. Bigger store, lots more space. Stop by and see them. After having used KG for so long and seeing the several rifles and firearms a year or so after a Duracote job, you couldn't pay me to put duracote on my rifle. The "dura" in duracote is filled with much fail. Just my .02! I'll get back to you in another 6 months, and let you know how the Duracoat on my AR is holding up. You may be right, but it's too early to tell. For the best results make sure you give it the FULL cure time. I believe that's 2-3 weeks. They say you can touch and even re-assemble your firearm after 24 hours, but it takes as long as 21 days (or more, depending on your environment) for a full cure. KG on the other hand is ready to rock after 1 hour of baking at 300 degrees. Fully salt and chemical resistant. |
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If you are close to US GUNS in Gladstone, ask Alan about Herb Sr. He likes to Duracoat and does a good job. And remember...US GUNS has moved...but only about 7 doors down from where they were. Bigger store, lots more space. Stop by and see them. After having used KG for so long and seeing the several rifles and firearms a year or so after a Duracote job, you couldn't pay me to put duracote on my rifle. The "dura" in duracote is filled with much fail. Just my .02! The magic refinishing elf speaks the truth! I have seen a brand new gun from dsa that was on display at a trade show that looked like some GD newb threw it down the driveway to get that battle hardend look. I also saw an identical gun that was a demo weapon that fired probably 5,000 rounds, barrel was blistered and discolored, scratches everywhere. These guns had a digital pattern applied by pro's and they didn't hold up to fingering at a trade show and being shot at a nice range.
Heat cured finishes for me only.. PTK |
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Alan is open I talked to him on fri or sat and he said the doors were open. WEll then who does KG in KC? There used to be a shop here in KC that did it, but they shut down due to owner having some family problems. You can contact KG and they should be able to give you a list of refinishers in our area that can do it for you. Shoot me a PM on what you want refinished and where you're located. Maybe I can help. I wasn't trying to bust your chops or say that DuraCote is pure crap, it's just that I've been using KG for just about two years now and Norrell's is the only other heat cured spray finish that even comes close. It may be just as good, but I haven't messed with it as I'm already set up for KG and have several pints of various colors. Here is the rundown on the major differences between KG and DC. KG is thin, so thin that it will show all machine marks and flaws. This is good because you don't want to use "paint" to fill imperfections. Paint on a firearm just doesn't stand up to close scrutiny. The other benifit is that the KG will not muck up your tollerances. It takes very little material (in most all cases) to cover. And that's all you want, coverage. KG is HARD. Yes it will wear, EVERYTHING wears. Even nickel and stainless. I have a Para C6.45 as proof of that. However, KG is harder than any other finish I've seen to date. I coated my Springfield m1911a1 and the coating on the inside of my magwell wore the bluing off of new shooting star mags, but left almost no visible wear inside the magwell. The only visible signs of wear on my 1911 after two years (it was the first project I did) is some shinyness to the normal traffic areas (serations) and under the original safetey levers (I installed a new ambi safety) where it doesn't cover like the old ones. KG is fully chemical resistant and if done properly will withstand up to 500 hours of salt spray according to KG's testing. They boast that they designed it years ago for the Navy and it's used on naval small arms to resist salt corrosion when at sea. You first blast the pieces, then coat with KPhos (a quick, spray parkerazation) then coat with color and bake at 300 degree's. KG swears that media blasting or a sharp jagged rock is about the only thing that will remove KG. So far from my experience they're right. DuraCote is some tuff stuff and it's a great product for which it was intended. I've been told by most that this is industrial applications. Machinery and such. KG is specifically made for firearms. Hope this helps. |
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I think KG, and Duracoat are both excellent products. It's going to come down to what you’re trying to achieve. Which one you feel more comfortable working with, and which one your more partial to. I prefer Duracoat, but I've had some Guns finished in the "Spray, and Bake" technique (by others) that look fine. My brother has also had better luck with Duracoat. I think your preparation has to be perfect when using Duracoat. I think you can get away with some minor mistakes with the "Spray, and Bake" stuff. Duracoat doesn't work well if the prep work hasn't been done properly, and I think that's why you hear people complaining about it so much. That, and the time it takes to fully cure. |
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I think KG, and Duracoat are both excellent products. It's going to come down to what you’re trying to achieve. Which one you feel more comfortable working with, and which one your more partial to. I prefer Duracoat, but I've had some Guns finished in the "Spray, and Bake" technique (by others) that look fine. My brother has also had better luck with Duracoat. I think your preparation has to be perfect when using Duracoat. I think you can get away with some minor mistakes with the "Spray, and Bake" stuff. Duracoat doesn't work well if the prep work hasn't been done properly, and I think that's why you hear people complaining about it so much. That, and the time it takes to fully cure. Proper preperation is absolutely important no matter what system your useing. Like I said, Duracote is some good stuff but after eyeballing the two side by side and seeing the detail and metal grain visible through the gunkote tells me that they're objective was to make a protective finish that doesn't encase the gun but becomes a part of it. According to them, when baked the KG actually bonds to the surface on a molecular level and becomes part of the piece. Duracote is a paint, plain and simple. I've seen several instances of the slide rails on 1911's and Sig's getting gummed up or not fitting right after using Duracote, needing to be sanded out because the matierial was too thick. This can happen with KG if you hog it on, I mean REALLY hog it on. Me and my partners' first pair of 1911's we did were completely coated. Sear, disconnector...EVERYTHING and there were NO tollerance issues. None, everything went back together smoothley. In fact, my 1911 was back together and being test fired 2 hours after baking. This was all done in one day. Granted, you can't really expect to do that with bigger or more complex builds but the 1911 is pretty simple to take a part and put back together. If one wishes to use Duracote, I wouldn't call them a bufoon or anything like that. It's just not for me and several friends that have seen our stuff after being coated with KG have made the switch as well. |