Posted: 10/4/2011 11:38:47 AM EDT
Wanted to see the rear trunion in a Draco pistol and to see how bad the lead buildup was in my .22 silencer.....so I xrayed them today. Enjoy.
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Uploaded with ImageShack.us Here is some motivation to clean your .22 silencers.....took it from a facrory 4.3oz to a plump 5.7oz with 2500-3500 rounds of .22. They added up fast and was kind of a "oh shit" moment when I realized I needed to clean it! Possibly looking at a blast cabinet to bead blast the load off the baffles. If anyone has one near KC I can try, I would love to try one prior to buying one. 
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Wanted to see the rear trunion in a Draco pistol and to see how bad the lead buildup was in my .22 silencer.....so I xrayed them today. Enjoy. <a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/9/imagelgyy.jpg/" target="_blank">http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/1073/imagelgyy.jpg</a> Uploaded with ImageShack.us <a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/94/imagedmb.jpg/" target="_blank">http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/1874/imagedmb.jpg</a> Uploaded with ImageShack.us <a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/98/imagerqo.jpg/" target="_blank">http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/8233/imagerqo.jpg</a> Uploaded with ImageShack.us Here is some motivation to clean your .22 silencers.....took it from a facrory 4.3oz to a plump 5.7oz with 2500-3500 rounds of .22. They added up fast and was kind of a "oh shit" moment when I realized I needed to clean it! Possibly looking at a blast cabinet to bead blast the load off the baffles. If anyone has one near KC I can try, I would love to try one prior to buying one. <a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/291/imageszy.jpg/" target="_blank">http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/2584/imageszy.jpg</a> Uploaded with ImageShack.us <a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/266/imagegba.jpg/" target="_blank">http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/401/imagegba.jpg</a> Uploaded with ImageShack.us <a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/214/imageeg.jpg/" target="_blank">http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/7721/imageeg.jpg</a> Uploaded with ImageShack.us <a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/213/imagevg.jpg/" target="_blank">http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/6321/imagevg.jpg</a> Uploaded with ImageShack.us Eric has mine... you can try it out in Raytown... |
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Thought those Draco's had an underfolding rear trunion. Guess not. evidently the Draco-C has the underfolding trunion...Draco has a pistol trunion. They appear to use the same rivet pattern. Have an underfolder kit on order with new rivets, trunion,.... to use once SBR'd. Planning a "simple" swap of the trunions, a few holes drilled in the receiver, and bolt up the underfolder kit. |
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No but a simple mixture of household chemicals will clean it all off (not to be used on aluminum... hell shouldn't really be used at all.) Ammonia and Bleach?......  Actually that wouldn't do a very good job, but you wouldn't worry about cleaning it anymore 
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Nice pics. So are you going to use the dip on it? Let's see what it looks like and the weight when you get done cleaning it. I wonder if you can get back to factory weight. Brett, what is this mysterious dip you speak of? Proprietary or homebrew? I recall it is 50/50% vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. I have not tried it yet. If you use it make sure you use gloves so the lead does not get absorbed through your skin. As noted, do not use on aluminum. |
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Nice pics. So are you going to use the dip on it? Let's see what it looks like and the weight when you get done cleaning it. I wonder if you can get back to factory weight. Brett, what is this mysterious dip you speak of? Proprietary or homebrew? I recall it is 50/50% vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. I have not tried it yet. If you use it make sure you use gloves so the lead does not get absorbed through your skin. As noted, do not use on aluminum. 1:1 White Vinegar and Hydrogen Peroxide is a common 'dip'. What it does is creates acetic acid, this will dissolve lead (and eat aluminum)... creating lead acetate which is nasty stuff and needs to be disposed of properly. Some people will let the liquid evaporate off and then dispose of the resulting (usually) white powder however they way, this isn't good as this is still lead acetate, a lead salt, and is water soluble (far more so than most forms of lead) and poses a great environmental and personal safety issue. In the liquid form it isn't safe to handle with out precautions as Bret mentioned it can be absorbed through your skin. It is possible to removed most of the lead from the acetic acid by using sulfuric acid to precipitate the lead. I am not a lawyer, chemist, environmentalist, hell I barely squeaked by the 1st grade, so don't take anything I said as advice or instructions. Side note, the resulting lead salt mentioned above is reported to be sweet tasting... So many suggestions, so little legal protection. |
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Quoted: Vinegar is already acetic acid just in a dilute (usually ~3%) solution.Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Nice pics. So are you going to use the dip on it? Let's see what it looks like and the weight when you get done cleaning it. I wonder if you can get back to factory weight. Brett, what is this mysterious dip you speak of? Proprietary or homebrew? I recall it is 50/50% vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. I have not tried it yet. If you use it make sure you use gloves so the lead does not get absorbed through your skin. As noted, do not use on aluminum. 1:1 White Vinegar and Hydrogen Peroxide is a common 'dip'. What it does is creates acetic acid, this will dissolve lead (and eat aluminum)... creating lead acetate which is nasty stuff and needs to be disposed of properly. Some people will let the liquid evaporate off and then dispose of the resulting (usually) white powder however they way, this isn't good as this is still lead acetate, a lead salt, and is water soluble (far more so than most forms of lead) and poses a great environmental and personal safety issue. In the liquid form it isn't safe to handle with out precautions as Bret mentioned it can be absorbed through your skin. It is possible to removed most of the lead from the acetic acid by using sulfuric acid to precipitate the lead. I am not a lawyer, chemist, environmentalist, hell I barely squeaked by the 1st grade, so don't take anything I said as advice or instructions. Side note, the resulting lead salt mentioned above is reported to be sweet tasting... So many suggestions, so little legal protection. |
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Nice pics. So are you going to use the dip on it? Let's see what it looks like and the weight when you get done cleaning it. I wonder if you can get back to factory weight. Brett, what is this mysterious dip you speak of? Proprietary or homebrew? I recall it is 50/50% vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. I have not tried it yet. If you use it make sure you use gloves so the lead does not get absorbed through your skin. As noted, do not use on aluminum. CAUTION only use the "DIP" 30 mins at a time. Its usually enough to do the trick. Otherwise that stuff will pit and eat the metal...Yes no shit....Ruined a couple comps on my race gun years ago with it...Works awesome though....I suggest pulling it and checking it every ten minutes to gauge how it does on whatever type of metal your using it on |
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Sounds kind of crazy but why not just use a lead solvent? I guarantee you the blaster will take it off, but it will also leave the substrate a frosty surface with "Tooth" You will need to clean more often. Or try an Ultra Sonic cleaner. I've heard the ultrasonic cleaners work great for carbon buildup, but not lead. So far, the 3 methods I've heard for removing lead have been a blast cabinet, the "dip", and using a wire brush. Previously I have always used a wire brush in a Milwaulkee power drill to remove the lead and its a tedious pain in the butt. I'm hoping the stainless baffles and endcaps can handle the blast cabinet without issue. I dont want to try the dip due to the nasty solution it leaves behind. Chad mentioned using MAP gas torch to heat up the baffles just enough to melt the lead off. That may be decent method considering the lead in .22 bullets should be rather soft and would melt away before the stainless baffles would show any heat distortion. Guessing a respirator or at least a fan would be needed to avoid breathing anything in. Unsure what lead solvent I would use, and if it would have any effects on the finish on the tube, or what residue/solution it may leave behind. |
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Sounds kind of crazy but why not just use a lead solvent? I guarantee you the blaster will take it off, but it will also leave the substrate a frosty surface with "Tooth" You will need to clean more often. Or try an Ultra Sonic cleaner. I've heard the ultrasonic cleaners work great for carbon buildup, but not lead. So far, the 3 methods I've heard for removing lead have been a blast cabinet, the "dip", and using a wire brush. Previously I have always used a wire brush in a Milwaulkee power drill to remove the lead and its a tedious pain in the butt. I'm hoping the stainless baffles and endcaps can handle the blast cabinet without issue. I dont want to try the dip due to the nasty solution it leaves behind. Chad mentioned using MAP gas torch to heat up the baffles just enough to melt the lead off. That may be decent method considering the lead in .22 bullets should be rather soft and would melt away before the stainless baffles would show any heat distortion. Guessing a respirator or at least a fan would be needed to avoid breathing anything in. Unsure what lead solvent I would use, and if it would have any effects on the finish on the tube, or what residue/solution it may leave behind. Shooters Choice Lead Remover? Soak the baffles in that, it won't hurt a 400 series stainless barrel no reason it should damage 300 series stainless baffles... no matter what you would need to service it rather often... not wait 1000-5000 rounds or what not. |
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Another method that I have heard about lately is using small brass or SS media and a tumbler (used for cleaning your brass) to clean your SS baffles.
Check out the link below... Cleaning Suppressor with Tumbler |
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Just though in my 2 cents worth in the form of a question. Has anyone heard of the chemical / electrical process of cleaning a pistol or rifle barrel? I got an old pistol from my FIL and tried the outers system. This barrel had a visible obstruction and I knew that he only shot lead bullets in it. Well after a short period of time I took and dumped the solution. Should have seen all of the lead sludge. But the barrel was clean of lead.
So, I am wondering if there would be a way to clean these baffles of lead using a chemical / electrical reverse plating system? |
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I'm betting it was never the advertised 4.3oz to begin. Advertising being, well, advertising. 
Hey SUB_MG, got a NIB & unfired Element that you can weigh? What exactly is the weight tolerance? +/- .5oz? or what? what are the machining tolerances? .3 oz is not a lot... |
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kinda along the lines of what I originally thought....of course .3oz could be the baffles being wet, plus a tiny bit of lead in those holes, and a cheap postal scale.
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I'm betting it was never the advertised 4.3oz to begin. Advertising being, well, advertising.
Hey SUB_MG, got a NIB & unfired Element that you can weigh? What exactly is the weight tolerance? +/- .5oz? or what? what are the machining tolerances? .3 oz is not a lot... |
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I'm betting it was never the advertised 4.3oz to begin. Advertising being, well, advertising.
Hey SUB_MG, got a NIB & unfired Element that you can weigh? I don't have a good digital scale other than my reloading scale. The total weight of an element exceeded the range of the scale so I had to weigh it in parts. Tube and caps are 2.86 oz baffles are 1.89 oz total 4.76 oz |
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I have a certified scale right here... accurate to the grain...  Bring that scale by and we can get some better numbers on the Element. Trouble is I can't move it... if it gets moved then it is no longer certified and besides it belongs to the company... :( |
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