Official .260 tOBR Thread-Pics/Range/Loads/Updated Thread Index (Page 7 of 188)
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Originally Posted By dHUTCH:
D, so you're ditching the JP SC setup? How on earth does the buffer system affect accuracy? I spoke with Allan from Springco yesterday and we agreed to give his Orange (stiffest) spring a test ride since the rifle came with his Red (enhanced) spring and a H2 buffer combo. I can also add weight to the current 8.5oz buffer, but I'll try the stiffer spring first and then do other testing if needed. Once I get the buffer / spring worked out, I'll start on better loads for this particular rifle. ETA - Go back to page 6 and read jaycoux's comment regarding the JP (if you haven't already). Not saying the JP is the issue, but I'm going to tweak with the PRS combo. |
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Originally Posted By Defender3:
Honestly, I don't know how it could, but I know my groups opened up and the rifle was ejecting brass from 1 - 6 o'clock. There was no consistency using the JP SCS. I guess I could have stiffened the spring in the JP, but I'm going to tweak the PRS / buffer combo instead. I spoke with Allan from Springco yesterday and we agreed to give his Orange (stiffest) spring a test ride since the rifle came with his Red (enhanced) spring and a H2 buffer combo. I can also add weight to the current 8.5oz buffer, but I'll try the stiffer spring first and then do other testing if needed. Once I get the buffer / spring worked out, I'll start on better loads for this particular rifle. ETA - Go back to page 6 and read jaycoux's comment regarding the JP (if you haven't already). Not saying the JP is the issue, but I'm going to tweak with the PRS combo. |
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Originally Posted By SmokieRiver:
- Cancel up coming trip to Dubai [check] - Order Vortex Razor II HD [check] - Mount Vortex Razor II HD [check] - First range day with the 260 tOBR on Saturday 
Range report coming . . . |
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Originally Posted By Defender3:
What ammo do you intend on shooting? If Prime runs good, and they run their case+1 again, I see a big order coming. |
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My TranQuilo that that was purchased with the FDE Heavy gets out of jail today. I am going to take it and the .260 to my buddy's farm. We will stretch its legs between turkey hunts this weekend.
I had the .260 out last weekend and put a few more boxes of Prime through it. There was noticeable tightening of the groups. This rifle is a real pleasure to shoot. The addition of the TranQuilo should only make things mo better. I also got a chance to run about a hundred rounds of Prime through the 6.5 CM. Prime was a definite step up from Hornady AMAX, not a big difference but enough that I would pay the extra $2 a box for the Prime. Now if Prime in .260 would come down in price! |
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Originally Posted By SmokieRiver:
Prime. I've got 13 boxes and plan on zeroing the rifle with Prime. I've got a 500yd training class in May and plan on using Prime exclusively until I'm past that class. After that I'll probably mess around with the ABM that I have and order some Federal Gold Match to see if there are any differences. Depending on the summer (more time on the boat than range), I'll probably get into reloading in the fall. If Prime runs good, and they run their case+1 again, I see a big order coming. Originally Posted By SmokieRiver:
Originally Posted By Defender3:
What ammo do you intend on shooting? If Prime runs good, and they run their case+1 again, I see a big order coming. Attached File |
Let's bump it up hoping for some good range reports this weekend. It was a beautifully sunny spring day here in the Commonwealth, but alas, the wife had me mowing grass and opening up the "estate" for spring. 
I did receive my care package from the mothership so I can replace the FDE AR15 grip I slapped on with the proper AR10 grip. I bought the smooth and rough and will give the smooth a try first (AR15 on the left, AR10 to the right). 
I received my Orange spring from Springco so the next trip I can do some additional testing. I currently have a rifle buffer with a JP AR10 rifle length spring and a 8.5oz buffer ejecting at about 5 o'clock. I added another tungsten weight which upped the buffer to a full 10 ounces and I'll test it for ejection and function. I know the rifle came with the Springco Red spring and a H2 buffer and it was over-gassed (1 o'clock ejection at about 5-6 feet). I can drop the spacer in the rifle buffer and then try the Orange carbine length spring with the H2 buffer and I also have an H3 if needed. 
Lastly, I'm going to try the JP high pressure bolt which has a smaller diameter firing pin to see how the primers fare. 
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Finally got out to the range and put 2 boxes of Prime through it. Highly impressed with the 260 - very smooth and well put together (as expected based on my tOBR 5.56). It's a little stiff in some areas, primarily the stock adjustment and takedown pins. I'm just as impressed with the Vortex Razor Gen II scope.
First 6 rounds were to get the scope zeroed, and four to confirm. After the shooting break I put up the the targets below. 
They made it easy on me to out shoot the shootist (2nd try - first was a tie). All shots were taken from a prome position and off a bipod at 100yds. There was a 6 mph slight cross wind coming from 30 degrees. My brother was saying he thought the Prime ammo was blowing a lot of smoke (dirty powder) but I'm fairly certain the TranQuilo muzzle brake was just kicking up a lot of the sand and dirt on the ground - the thread on the brake had sand grains in it. Overall - very happy with 260! |
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Originally Posted By SmokieRiver:
Finally got out to the range and put 2 boxes of Prime through it. Highly impressed with the 260 - very smooth and well put together (as expected based on my tOBR 5.56). It's a little stiff in some areas, primarily the stock adjustment and takedown pins. I'm just as impressed with the Vortex Razor Gen II scope. First 6 rounds were to get the scope zeroed, and four to confirm. After the shooting break I put up the the targets below. http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e26/SmokieRiver/20170408_113624_zpsj8mlwiuj.jpg http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e26/SmokieRiver/20170408_113612_zpsgqvc3apv.jpg They made it easy on me to out shoot the shootist (2nd try - first was a tie). All shots were taken from a prome position and off a bipod at 100yds. There was a 6 mph slight cross wind coming from 30 degrees. My brother was saying he thought the Prime ammo was blowing a lot of smoke (dirty powder) but I'm fairly certain the TranQuilo muzzle brake was just kicking up a lot of the sand and dirt on the ground - the thread on the brake had sand grains in it. Overall - very happy with 260! What are your thoughts on that Vortex beast (form, fit, function)? |
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Originally Posted By Defender3:
Nice job! What are your thoughts on that Vortex beast (form, fit, function)? Pros - Best glass I've looked through yet . . . By far. - The EBR-2C MRAD reticle is great. Not too busy and will be nice for corrections at longer ranges - The turrets are very nice - Built like a tank Cons - Very heavy, since it's built like a tank - Not a huge fan of the color For me, this optic on the tOBR 260 22" is a nice match. But if I was carrying it for an extended period of time, with the bipod, you'll feel the weight of the setup. For what I'll be using it mostly for, prone position looking through it down range, perfect in my mind. |
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Originally Posted By SmokieRiver:
I'm by no means an optics expert, so definitely a novice opinion. My other optic is a Leupold VXR 3-9 and I've looked through a couple of my brother optics all around a $200 price point, for a basis on my perspective. Pros - Best glass I've looked through yet . . . By far. - The EBR-2C MRAD reticle is great. Not too busy and will be nice for corrections at longer ranges - The turrets are very nice - Built like a tank Cons - Very heavy, since it's built like a tank - Not a huge fan of the color For me, this optic on the tOBR 260 22" is a nice match. But if I was carrying it for an extended period of time, with the bipod, you'll feel the weight of the setup. For what I'll be using it mostly for, prone position looking through it down range, perfect in my mind. Originally Posted By SmokieRiver:
Originally Posted By Defender3:
Nice job! What are your thoughts on that Vortex beast (form, fit, function)? Pros - Best glass I've looked through yet . . . By far. - The EBR-2C MRAD reticle is great. Not too busy and will be nice for corrections at longer ranges - The turrets are very nice - Built like a tank Cons - Very heavy, since it's built like a tank - Not a huge fan of the color For me, this optic on the tOBR 260 22" is a nice match. But if I was carrying it for an extended period of time, with the bipod, you'll feel the weight of the setup. For what I'll be using it mostly for, prone position looking through it down range, perfect in my mind. I had a Razor HD II in MRAD and sold it before I mounted it. It was the whole MRAD vs MOA thing and it was a tough decision, but seeing that I had all MOA optics, it made sense. I'm debating getting another but for now I have three of the Razor HD 5-20x50s and do like them. They're easy to use, have a zero stop for elevation and with the 50mm objective, provide a lot of light for my old eyes. Considering their price point (with mil discount), options and that I only trudge from the parking lot to the firing line, they make good sense. Oh, and I don't mind the color.
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Yesterday was another beautiful day, but the range was closed for a NRA self-defense class so I was stuck at home. I'll have to see if I can get out sometime this week as it's gone from spring to summer and it looks like we'll be in the 80's.
I took the .260 apart to clean it and get it ready for the next range day. It's pretty easy to clean when it's apart.
Nice tight barrel to receiver fit and the areas around the PST has some carbon, but nothing more than I find with my 7.62 tOBR. 
I cleaned the rifle and broke out the Aeroshell. 
I installed the barrel, torqued it tight and then put it all back together. I cleaned the chamber but only ran some patches through the barrel and then oiled it. Since it only had about 75rds since I cleaned it last, I'm going to let it copper up a bit more and see what kind of MVs I'm getting. 
Lastly was to take the JP HP bolt apart and ensure headspace. 
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Originally Posted By jeep450:
Explain why you are changing the bolt please. Here are the primers of some fired rounds showing the cratering. These aren't over pressured, but the size of the firing pin hole, in combination with the high port pressure, is allowing the cratering: 
Here's a picture of the LaRue bolt (left) and the JP HP on the right. You can see the difference in the size of the firing pin hole:
There's nothing wrong with the LaRue bolt, but I'll be reloading and given the pressure of the round, I'm thinking the primer pockets will loosen prematurely and I may not be able to realize a round loaded near max without a pressure issue. I would think using a heavier bullet, say the 142gr factory FGMM or a 147gr ELD would also affect port pressure. The rifle +2 gas system is a reaction to the port pressure from rounds like the .260 and 6.5CM, and a way to better dwell time and timing. Again, nothing wrong with the LaRue bolt, at all, ever, period, exclamation point. And lastly, I had the bolt for a 6.5CM gas gun build that just hasn't happened yet and thought I'd use it with the .260.
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Originally Posted By Defender3:
Primer pocket cratering due to the port pressure a round like the .260 produces. Take a look at the pics I posted previously. Here are the primers of some fired rounds showing the cratering. These aren't over pressured, but the size of the firing pin hole, in combination with the high port pressure, is allowing the cratering: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/52736/DSC-0223-159430.jpg Here's a picture of the LaRue bolt (left) and the JP HP on the right. You can see the difference in the size of the firing pin hole: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/52736/IMG-4298-1-183324.jpg There's nothing wrong with the LaRue bolt, but I'll be reloading and given the pressure of the round, I'm thinking the primer pockets will loosen prematurely and I may not be able to realize a round loaded near max without a pressure issue. I would think using a heavier bullet, say the 142gr factory FGMM or a 147gr ELD would also affect port pressure. The rifle +2 gas system is a reaction to the port pressure from rounds like the .260 and 6.5CM, and a way to better dwell time and timing. Again, nothing wrong with the LaRue bolt, at all, ever, period, exclamation point. And lastly, I had the bolt for a 6.5CM gas gun build that just hasn't happened yet and thought I'd use it with the .260. Originally Posted By Defender3:
Originally Posted By jeep450:
Explain why you are changing the bolt please. Here are the primers of some fired rounds showing the cratering. These aren't over pressured, but the size of the firing pin hole, in combination with the high port pressure, is allowing the cratering: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/52736/DSC-0223-159430.jpg Here's a picture of the LaRue bolt (left) and the JP HP on the right. You can see the difference in the size of the firing pin hole: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/52736/IMG-4298-1-183324.jpg There's nothing wrong with the LaRue bolt, but I'll be reloading and given the pressure of the round, I'm thinking the primer pockets will loosen prematurely and I may not be able to realize a round loaded near max without a pressure issue. I would think using a heavier bullet, say the 142gr factory FGMM or a 147gr ELD would also affect port pressure. The rifle +2 gas system is a reaction to the port pressure from rounds like the .260 and 6.5CM, and a way to better dwell time and timing. Again, nothing wrong with the LaRue bolt, at all, ever, period, exclamation point. And lastly, I had the bolt for a 6.5CM gas gun build that just hasn't happened yet and thought I'd use it with the .260. @LRRPF52 |
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So what you're saying is the larger hole in the larue bolt allows the primer to push out into the bolt hole. Thus possibly causing the primer hole in the case to open up. The boat with the smaller hole should stop this from happening.
Is this correct? While I know nothing on reloading I would think in that allowing the primer to push out would keep it from pushing sideways and forcing the case hole larger. Am I wrong in thinking like this? |
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Originally Posted By jeep450:
So what you're saying is the larger hole in the larue bolt allows the primer to push out into the bolt hole. YES. Thus possibly causing the primer hole in the case to open up. YES. The bolt with the smaller hole should stop this from happening. YES. Is this correct? YES. While I know nothing on reloading I would think in that allowing the primer to push out would keep it from pushing sideways and forcing the case hole larger. I'm relying on information I gleaned from the net reading a lot of posts about higher port pressure gas guns. JP discontinued their rifle length gas systems and went to a +2 for the 6.5CM, presumably due to the higher port pressures and the resulting PSI hitting the carrier and affecting the dwell and timing. They also introduced the HP bolt that basically adds support for the primer and, by reducing the firing pin hole diameter, doesn't allow the pressure to cause a crater. Am I wrong in thinking like this? |
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Originally Posted By Defender3: Please keep us informed how the gun functions and shoots with the jp bolt. |
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Originally Posted By jaycoux:
I don't think it's going to ruin your primer pockets. It's just the result of the firing pin being larger. Your issues will get worse the heavier your bullets get and the higher you go towards max charge. Please keep us informed how the gun functions and shoots with the jp bolt. |
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Originally Posted By Defender3:
I hope to keep the thread going for a bit and will certainly continue my observations. As more of the .260s get out to the range / wild, I anticipate / hope / beg for a wider variety of posters relating their experiences. |
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Originally Posted By jaycoux:
I have to say I'm rather surprised that there are so few folks out there willing to share their experiences with this rifle. I know there had to be many more that were purchased. Most anyone that buys Larue pays attention to this board as well. |
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Large firing pin apertures are common on military rifles for reliable primer ignition and generous tolerances.
With the amount of pressure that dwells in the bore with an elongated peak, versus a short duration peak like with lighter bullets in the 7.62 NATO with fast powders, it is common to get primer flow. Also, a lot of factory rounds will show primer flow, but people who don't reload never notice and assume they don't have the condition, then wonder why other people make a fuss about it. The smaller firing pin aperture supports the primer cup head more, fighting the tendency for the primer cup to flow into the aperture in the bolt. This is why JP makes the HP bolt, which is also useful on bolts in AR10s that are used with 175gr and higher target bullets with a lot of shank length, pushed with slower powders. Loads like the 175gr SMK and 178gr AMAX have a tendency to exhibit primer flow on normal bolts on the riles I have seen over the years. For my .260 Rem build, someone sent me an enlarged firing pin to counter this condition, which fills out the aperture instead of reducing the aperture and firing pin head diameter. There are pros and cons to this, with leverage on the dimple being one con I have heard mentioned by engineers, which can lead to cratering and piercing still, but I haven't had any piercing since I installed it. |
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Originally Posted By cpl0313:
You'd be amazed how little people shoot. I've had four LaRue barrels and two LaRue builds I've been working on for awhile now. Shot two this weekend for the first time. Nothing but ringing steel. I'll shoot small groups on paper soon. Originally Posted By cpl0313:
Originally Posted By jaycoux:
I have to say I'm rather surprised that there are so few folks out there willing to share their experiences with this rifle. I know there had to be many more that were purchased. Most anyone that buys Larue pays attention to this board as well. |
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Originally Posted By LRRPF52:
Large firing pin apertures are common on military rifles for reliable primer ignition and generous tolerances. With the amount of pressure that dwells in the bore with an elongated peak, versus a short duration peak like with lighter bullets in the 7.62 NATO with fast powders, it is common to get primer flow. Also, a lot of factory rounds will show primer flow, but people who don't reload never notice and assume they don't have the condition, then wonder why other people make a fuss about it. The smaller firing pin aperture supports the primer cup head more, fighting the tendency for the primer cup to flow into the aperture in the bolt. This is why JP makes the HP bolt, which is also useful on bolts in AR10s that are used with 175gr and higher target bullets with a lot of shank length, pushed with slower powders. Loads like the 175gr SMK and 178gr AMAX have a tendency to exhibit primer flow on normal bolts on the riles I have seen over the years. For my .260 Rem build, someone sent me an enlarged firing pin to counter this condition, which fills out the aperture instead of reducing the aperture and firing pin head diameter. There are pros and cons to this, with leverage on the dimple being one con I have heard mentioned by engineers, which can lead to cratering and piercing still, but I haven't had any piercing since I installed it. |
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Nice to hear I'm not the only one too busy to shoot,I have the 260 and a couple cases of prime ready to go but I have been waiting on my Tranquillo to go to the range.since I ordered shortly after they first came out it should be any day now.ill post a report when I finally get it done.the LEPE of faith has been more of a hurdle so far.
Pete |
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Originally Posted By bfk4lyfe:
Anyone try the hornady eld yet? |
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Originally Posted By bfk4lyfe:
Anyone try the hornady eld yet? Also, a related question: how has this rifle done suppressed? |
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Originally Posted By Addicted2Fish:
I'm very curious as to how this does as well. I've more or less made up my mind that the next rifle I buy is going to be this .260 or something similar, so how well it does with the higher BC stuff is very much in my interest. Also, a related question: how has this rifle done suppressed? I also hope to get to the range Friday as I'm interested to see how much of a POI shift there was since I removed and re-installed the barrel at the last cleaning. Unfortunately I did the same with the scope, which will introduce it's own variance so I'll be "stacking tolerances" as they say in the M1 Garand world. 
As to the suppressor, I've shot it twice now with the TQ with no issues. However, the .260 with the TQ is shooting low and right whereas when shooting the TQ with my LaRue 7.62, there was less than a 1/4 MOA POI shift. |
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Originally Posted By icecold1:
Nice to hear I'm not the only one too busy to shoot,I have the 260 and a couple cases of prime ready to go but I have been waiting on my Tranquillo to go to the range.since I ordered shortly after they first came out it should be any day now.ill post a report when I finally get it done.the LEPE of faith has been more of a hurdle so far.
Pete 
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Originally Posted By jeep450:
I ordered a TranQuilo first day and am still waiting on paperwork also Originally Posted By jeep450:
Originally Posted By icecold1:
Nice to hear I'm not the only one too busy to shoot,I have the 260 and a couple cases of prime ready to go but I have been waiting on my Tranquillo to go to the range.since I ordered shortly after they first came out it should be any day now.ill post a report when I finally get it done.the LEPE of faith has been more of a hurdle so far.
Pete |
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Originally Posted By Defender3:
Seriously, a year and a half????? Originally Posted By Defender3:
Originally Posted By jeep450:
Originally Posted By icecold1:
Nice to hear I'm not the only one too busy to shoot,I have the 260 and a couple cases of prime ready to go but I have been waiting on my Tranquillo to go to the range.since I ordered shortly after they first came out it should be any day now.ill post a report when I finally get it done.the LEPE of faith has been more of a hurdle so far.
Pete 
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I received some care packages today.
Supplies from Midway, including some 130gr Norma Golden Targets. The Kinder eggs are direct from Germany. 
Found this on Amazon, am I going to hell?
Off to the range tomorrow to test POI (repeatability) since I broke the .260 down when I cleaned it last. |
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Originally Posted By Defender3:
FedEx says the ammo will arrive Friday, but it will be later in the day so I probably can't get that ammo to the range until (maybe) Saturday. We have a steel challenge in the morning so maybe I'll take the .260 with me and put some of the ELDs through it, albeit only at 100 yards. I also hope to get to the range Friday as I'm interested to see how much of a POI shift there was since I removed and re-installed the barrel at the last cleaning. Unfortunately I did the same with the scope, which will introduce it's own variance so I'll be "stacking tolerances" as they say in the M1 Garand world.
As to the suppressor, I've shot it twice now with the TQ with no issues. However, the .260 with the TQ is shooting low and right whereas when shooting the TQ with my LaRue 7.62, there was less than a 1/4 MOA POI shift. |
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Originally Posted By Addicted2Fish:
Excellent. How much would you say the fouling is when suppressed? My friend who was shooting his GAP in 6.5 was telling me it gets almost inoperable after 70-80 rounds -- better than that? Originally Posted By Addicted2Fish:
Originally Posted By Defender3:
FedEx says the ammo will arrive Friday, but it will be later in the day so I probably can't get that ammo to the range until (maybe) Saturday. We have a steel challenge in the morning so maybe I'll take the .260 with me and put some of the ELDs through it, albeit only at 100 yards. I also hope to get to the range Friday as I'm interested to see how much of a POI shift there was since I removed and re-installed the barrel at the last cleaning. Unfortunately I did the same with the scope, which will introduce it's own variance so I'll be "stacking tolerances" as they say in the M1 Garand world.
As to the suppressor, I've shot it twice now with the TQ with no issues. However, the .260 with the TQ is shooting low and right whereas when shooting the TQ with my LaRue 7.62, there was less than a 1/4 MOA POI shift. |
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Originally Posted By Defender3:
Absolutely better than that. I've shot about 50rds suppressed from the .260 and had no issues, but I've shot more thorough my tOBR 7.62, also with no issues or fouling. Remember you have a suppressed setting on the gas block that reduces a majority of the blowback. Also look back in the thread at the cleaning pics I posted, they were suppressed and unsuppressed, about 75 rounds. Each time, the carbon basically wiped off. |
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Originally Posted By dHUTCH:
Defender, can you send me a PM with what cleaning fluids you use? I use Hoppe's to clean the barrel and chamber. Since there appears to be minimal copper fouling with my .260, the Hoppe's works quickly and well. I'll run a patch with the Hoppe's and then let it sit for a few minutes. Then a Hoppe's soaked brush, no aggressive bore scrubbing, just 3-5 passes with the brush and then patches. I have other solvents that are much stronger, including patch out and wipe out, but I've not found I needed them for this rifle. NOTE: If you've not used an ammonia-based solvent be very careful as using them is a regiment in itself and if not properly done will damage your barrel, wood, plastics, etc. The bottom line is trying to brush copper out of your bore wastes time and will probably do more harm than the copper; my opinion, YMMV. I have a foaming bore cleaner that supposed to work very well, but again, I'm not having copper issues with this rifle so I've not broken it out. I use a Dewey coated rod along with a chamber guide so there's minimal chance I'll be impacting the rifling at the chamber and causing damage. I try to use nylon and stainless brushes (need to reorder for the .260) as copper brushes will eventually break down and could cause issues when using a more caustic cleaner. I'm careful to guide the rod so I also don't damage the crown area of the barrel. Once I finish with the bore and chamber (using a .308 chamber brush) , I run a patch with a lubricating gun oil so I won't introduce any rust issues now that the bore is clean and unprotected, even though the rifle is stored in a safe in a climate controlled area. I run a clean patch through the bore a day later to remove the oil and a clean patch the day I'll be shooting. I do not ever use WD-40 or the like, I've read some notes about WD-40 allowing moisture to ride below it on a surface that then allows rust to form. With all the other cleaners specifically made for rifles, it makes sense to me to use something else. I use Hoppe's on the BCG and find it too works well, but I also lubricate the bolt and BCG using Mil-Com's TW25B gun grease. You can put a light coat on and it work very well and allows for a quick clean up as the carbon adheres to the top of the grease, not your BCG. I also use Slip 2000 EWL and I'll squirt a little on the BCG after I've fired 50 or so rounds to keep the gun "wet." On my range trips with the .260, I've not done that so I could see how well the TWB was working. It held up to the 75rd mark and then it was getting carboned up to the point I'd probably introduce a failure at some point in future (next 25-50rds). So, that tells me a quirt of the EWL after 50rds will keep me running smoothly. YMMV. I ordered some of the TW25B in a squirt bottle and will probably bring that to the range and see how it works when carbon starts to build. I use the old mil-spec nylon toothbrushes for small parts and areas on the rifle (charging handle track, mag well, etc.), a lot of Q-tips, patches and rags along the way too. I'm not trying to tell people what to do, just offering a broader answer for the viewing audience. As always, your methods may vary and I have no bone with that, and with any advice on a forum, YMMV.
Here's an article on bore cleaning, one of many out there. Bore Brushing |
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Originally Posted By Defender3:
IM sent. Simple question, short answer is Hoppe's #9, gun oil and Mil-Com TW25B, long answer follows. BTW - I got some samples of the TW25B at my LaRue Armorer's Course and gave it a try, it is incredible! I use Hoppe's to clean the barrel and chamber. Since there appears to be minimal copper fouling with my .260, the Hoppe's works quickly and well. I'll run a patch with the Hoppe's and then let it sit for a few minutes. Then a Hoppe's soaked brush, no aggressive bore scrubbing, just 3-5 passes with the brush and then patches. I have other solvents that are much stronger, including patch out and wipe out, but I've not found I needed them for this rifle. NOTE: If you've not used an ammonia-based solvent be very careful as using them is a regiment in itself and if not properly done will damage your barrel, wood, plastics, etc. The bottom line is trying to brush copper out of your bore wastes time and will probably do more harm than the copper; my opinion, YMMV. I have a foaming bore cleaner that supposed to work very well, but again, I'm not having copper issues with this rifle so I've not broken it out. I use a Dewey coated rod along with a chamber guide so there's minimal chance I'll be impacting the rifling at the chamber and causing damage. I try to use nylon and stainless brushes (need to reorder for the .260) as copper brushes will eventually break down and could cause issues when using a more caustic cleaner. I'm careful to guide the rod so I also don't damage the crown area of the barrel. Once I finish with the bore and chamber (using a .308 chamber brush) , I run a patch with a lubricating gun oil so I won't introduce any rust issues now that the bore is clean and unprotected, even though the rifle is stored in a safe in a climate controlled area. I run a clean patch through the bore a day later to remove the oil and a clean patch the day I'll be shooting. I do not ever use WD-40 or the like, I've read some notes about WD-40 allowing moisture to ride below it on a surface that then allows rust to form. With all the other cleaners specifically made for rifles, it makes sense to me to use something else. I use Hoppe's on the BCG and find it too works well, but I also lubricate the bolt and BCG using Mil-Com's TW25B gun grease. You can put a light coat on and it work very well and allows for a quick clean up as the carbon adheres to the top of the grease, not your BCG. I also use Slip 2000 EWL and I'll squirt a little on the BCG after I've fired 50 or so rounds to keep the gun "wet." On my range trips with the .260, I've not done that so I could see how well the TWB was working. It held up to the 75rd mark and then it was getting carboned up to the point I'd probably introduce a failure at some point in future (next 25-50rds). So, that tells me a quirt of the EWL after 50rds will keep me running smoothly. YMMV. I ordered some of the TW25B in a squirt bottle and will probably bring that to the range and see how it works when carbon starts to build. I use the old mil-spec nylon toothbrushes for small parts and areas on the rifle (charging handle track, mag well, etc.), a lot of Q-tips, patches and rags along the way too. I'm not trying to tell people what to do, just offering a broader answer for the viewing audience. As always, your methods may vary and I have no bone with that, and with any advice on a forum, YMMV.
Here's an article on bore cleaning, one of many out there. Bore Brushing ETA: The OBR now has about 200rds through it and it's time to break it down and give her a detailed cleaning. I also want everything in tip-top shape before I test this new "white" normal power spring. |
Official Arfcom Nickname: 3 Gun
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Range Report. I went out early today to get some rounds out before it got too hot. Yes, too hot. It was supposed to be in the 80's today, where's spring???? I got to the range at 0830 and set up for a 0900 start. It was sunny, about 55 degrees and with a light 1-3mph wind from my 3 o'clock.
I started with the rifle length spring and heavy (10.3oz) buffer. While the rifle functioned and ejected at the 4-5 o'clock, it wouldn't hold open the bolt on the last round. That was a problem for every spring combo so I need to check the bolt catch for wear / grit. I removed the rifle length buffer and spring, put in the carbine length poly plug and then the Springco Orange spring with H3 buffer. Rifle functioned but was short stroking. I replaced the H3 with the H2 buffer and had the same problem. I replaced the Orange spring with the Red spring and H3 and it still short stroked. I replaced the H3 with a H2 and it worked well and was ejecting to 4 o'clock. I kept the Red Springco and H2 buffer for the rest of the session. Interestingly it was the red / H2 that was ejecting to 1 o'clock when new. Now, with a couple of hundred rounds down the tube, the red / H2 is working as designed. I shot the Prime and FGMM, both suppressed and unsuppressed with no issues. I also tried a couple of different positions trying to get a bit more settled behind the rifle (NOTE - no prone at our range unless prior approval). I ended up going to the lowest position I could on the bipod with as much head weight on the stock as possible. ETA - I neglected to mention an important point, which was how far off the original POA I was once I reinstalled the barrel and scope mount. When I cleaned the rifle I took it down removing the scope mount and barrel. I cleaned and put the rifle back together then it was off to the range. The rifle was within 1/2MOA from factory. The Vortex uses 1/4 MOA clicks and I adjusted 2 clicks (1/2MOA) down and 1/2MOA left. That brought the Prime (130gr) on target. You can see from my MOA Challenge target that the Federal (142gr) was still basically shooting 1/4MOA lower and 1/4MOA to the right of the Prime. You know the drill by now - IWLA Range in Safford - my usual spot on the end and shooting at 100 yards: 
Here's the best 3-shot group of the day, using Prime: 
Here's the best 5-shot of the day, using the FGMM: 
A good ejection pattern: 
I checked MVs again and will post the updates once I get the values in the database: 
I shot the MOA Challenge with the FGMM. I made it under 1 MOA, but I need some more practice. ETA - That flyer in the center was the first shot of the challenge and I forgot to reset the scope to zero elevation from where I was shooting suppressed prior. 
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Originally Posted By Defender3:
Okay, something's not right, barrels don't slow down. I may have an issue with the M3. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/52736/MVs-186599.jpg Lot number variations on the ammo? ETA: barrel cleaning between outings? |
Slow is smooth. Smooth is fast.
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Originally Posted By sommere54:
Same spacers and setup from outing to outing on the Magnetospeed? Lot number variations on the ammo? ETA: barrel cleaning between outings? Originally Posted By sommere54:
Originally Posted By Defender3:
Okay, something's not right, barrels don't slow down. I may have an issue with the M3. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/52736/MVs-186599.jpg Lot number variations on the ammo? ETA: barrel cleaning between outings? |
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I neglected to mention an important point in my range report, which was how far off the original POI I was once I reinstalled the barrel and scope mount. When I cleaned the rifle I took it down removing the scope mount and barrel. I cleaned and put the rifle back together then it was off to the range. The rifle was within 1/2MOA from factory. The Vortex uses 1/4 MOA clicks and I adjusted 2 clicks (1/2MOA) down and 1/2MOA left, which brought the Prime (130gr) on target. You can see from my MOA Challenge target that the Federal (142gr) was still basically shooting 1/4MOA lower and 1/4MOA to the right of the Prime. Not too bad considering. To add, since I did the barrel and scope mount, I would assume if I just did the barrel, the POI shift would have been smaller. I'll have to give that a try in future.
 Airplane-Dropped LaRue PredatOBR Rifle Shoots Down DJI Inspire Drone. |
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Originally Posted By cpl0313:
If you need someone to pass your hand-me-downs to I can provide my address! Originally Posted By cpl0313:
Originally Posted By Defender3:
The heck with the M3, I just ordered a LabRadar.  |
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