Posted: 8/11/2012 7:17:11 PM EDT
|
Id like to know where you guys have your light mounted, how its activated, and why. Im going to be adding a few lights to some non-work rifles and after some consideration, I think there may be a better way to mount them than I currently have my duty gun set up.
On my work gun, the light is at the 9'oclock position and I activate it with my thumb in conjunction with a VFG. As I shoot more and more, I have found that I shoot faster, more accurate, and feel in better control when I extend my left hand out across the side of the rail with my thumb on top. If I were to continue to shoot this way, the light at the 9'oclock position wont work. If I put it on the other side, Im not sure what the best way to activate it is, or where to position it exactly. I would like to stay away from activation switches if possible and only use the tailcap. Thanks guys! |
Since you didn't mention the requirement to keep your current light  , and since you want to stay away from switches (the best option IMO mounted @ 12:00), I think your best option would be to pick up a Scout and offset Scout mount, LT-752. Mount the light at the 10:30 position and the movement from 12:00 to 10:30 with your thumb would be miniscule.
|
|
X300 at 12 o'clock is my preferred spot. I am finding that the rail on my PredatAR might be too long and I'm considering getting a tape switch for it.
My second preference is at 1 o'clock or 11 o'clock depending on rail length. The IWC/Haley mounts work well with traditional 2 cell lights. I don't have too much experience with the scout lights. The idea of having the light above the bore is to assist in using cover. If you need to look over cover with a light mounted somewhere below the barrel then you may be needlessly exposing too much of your body. Same idea applies to the right and left mounting options when working corners. Good luck testing what works best for you!! |
| The tape switch on the top rail would be really natural for you. However, it would also be really easy to accidentally activate. That's something to consider depending on what you're going to use it for. I recommend a light like the Surefire Scout or VTAC/Surefire L4, with the tail cap, mounted at the 10:30 or 11 o'clock. You'll have to modify your grip a little to activate the light, but it's a good balance between easy activation and not accidentally activating it. |
|
I give the tailcap switch another nod...
I run a 300 scout at 11 o'clock on a vtac rail now, and with a similar grip to what you use...a simple push with the thumb turns the light on. It also works really well for momentary use. If you are lefty the one o'clock position will work also. The mount I use is one of the mount n slot / Haley setups that keep the light very tight to the rail, that way it doesn't snag or bang on stuff as much and is a easy reach. |
| I only have one light on a firearm its a crimson trace green laser / light combo. Im not wild about adding weight to a firearm and prefer the light be held out at arms length to the side during entry team work, given a choice I prefer to go in very slowly without a light on to give away your position. |
|
Quoted:
Id like to know where you guys have your light mounted, how its activated, and why. Im going to be adding a few lights to some non-work rifles and after some consideration, I think there may be a better way to mount them than I currently have my duty gun set up. On my work gun, the light is at the 9'oclock position and I activate it with my thumb in conjunction with a VFG. As I shoot more and more, I have found that I shoot faster, more accurate, and feel in better control when I extend my left hand out across the side of the rail with my thumb on top. If I were to continue to shoot this way, the light at the 9'oclock position wont work. If I put it on the other side, Im not sure what the best way to activate it is, or where to position it exactly. I would like to stay away from activation switches if possible and only use the tailcap. Thanks guys! Been There, Done That. I am shooting in a similar fashion as you. +1 on the accuracy and speed (note- I DO have that in the proper order). What brand of light are you using? Have you tried the light w/ tail cap using a mount at the 1 - 2 o'clock position ? Look at the inset pics and find the one that shows the top , right position.... light mount made by some guy somewhere in Texas I have a Magpul Mid foreend with one of their right side MOE light mounts and I am able to extend my thumb slightly to the right and hit the tail switch. I really prefer this setup when using a tail switch. I am right-handed and prefer my lights on the right side of the gun. It takes up less of my field of view. Having the light at 1-2 o'clock is the only way to do it with the left hand hold that you are using. |
Hastily produced crappy pics...but you can see what I am doing. With a longer rail than this mid-length handguard and the Scout light mount at one o'clock, it would be perfect. I only have to move my left thumb about a 1/2" to hit the tail cap. My grip pressure and placement does not change using this method. Simple. easy, fast. |
|
I have not seen anyone in person able to activate a strong-side light without either rotating their grip over the top, or using a tape switch. omd, you may have enormous mitts, but I can't accomplish that with my girly-sized hands, and I've not seen normal-sized hands that can do it, either. Props to you.
For people like me, there are two options. I'll call them the Costa Style (strong-side light with tape switch), and the Rogers Style (weak-side light using tailcap.) The Rogers Style negates the need for an expensive tape switch, and permits activating the light without changing hand position, regardless of whether you shoot with your weak hand underneath or on the side. This is my personal experience using mostly mid-length rifles. |
|
One clarification to the above images, the Magpul foreend is smaller in overall diameter than a railed handguard, especially if that rail has some covers on it.
I wear a size large glove but have short fingers and have no problem getting my hand around the mid-length foreend. A railed foreend setup could be made to work this well. My personal preference is to mount a pressure switch at 12 o'clock on a long railed upper . With that setup ( an extended rail with no FSB), I can move my left thumb about an inch to the left and pop the switch. That stays within the natural range of my left thumbs motion and does not affect my overall grip. I looked at the way Kev Boland at Knight mounted his pressure switch at 11 o'clock in the groove between the rails and it did not work for me. On an AR-15 my hand and arm tend to naturally rotate more to the right . But it may work better on a .308 AR because of the heavier weight. What it all boils down to is what method fits that persons body, hands, and gun. I see Costa holding his gun in certain ways that my arms and wrist won't go. Because I shoot so much at night, I have spent a lot of time on this subject over the years. I have learned many, many things NOT to do. During a training session years ago, I had my pressure switch at three o'clock under my left fingers. I clamped down on the switch unknowingly, continously lighting up the target at 200 yards from the unsupported prone position. Two trainers shot me ("THAT guy") in the ass with paintball guns to make the lesson extra-memorable. |
