Posted: 6/21/2011 6:54:59 PM EDT
| Just got my NM A4 today! Took it home and tried to zero it. Fired a magazine of 20 through it. It's definitely a shooter...everything through a quarter sized area. Just having fit trying to get the front sight to move. Got some movement tonight by lubing the hell out of it and moving it a little back and forth. Totally tore up the end of a FMJ bullet doing that. I'm really excited about this rifle...wow, what a shooter right out of the box...man o man. Thanks RR...great rifle! |
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Thanks, Steve. I think I will order the sight tool...should make life easier. So, now that I've been fiddling with the front sight...how do I tell which is the correct side?
Again, I just can't believe how accurate that rifle is right out of the box...I've never shot like that before. And, to make it even better...it was just plain ol' XM 193! Do you have any suggestions for the ammo. that this rifle would like better? I had planned on trying some of the Black Hills ammo. Thanks, again. Harry |
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Unlike a regular A2 front sight post, which is square, th ematch post is rectangular (you want to be looking at the short sid eof the rectangle) and the top is tapered for anti-glare, and you want to have the "slope" of that taper going downhill/away from you...you should be looking at the tallest, narrowest face of the front post through the rear sight.
Steve/RRA |
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Thank you very much. I remember reading something like this, but can't (and didn't) remember where. So...last night I shot at a military zeroing target for the A4 (carbine on the other side) and the group was centered 5 "units" low, straight down from the center of the target. When I read the manual, it tells me to go 5 clicks clockwise. So with this special sight, does that mean five 360 turns? If I just go five "clicks" the blade of the sight won't be properly aligned.
Thanks for your patience. Harry |
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Quoted:
Thank you very much. I remember reading something like this, but can't (and didn't) remember where. So...last night I shot at a military zeroing target for the A4 (carbine on the other side) and the group was centered 5 "units" low, straight down from the center of the target. When I read the manual, it tells me to go 5 clicks clockwise. So with this special sight, does that mean five 360 turns? If I just go five "clicks" the blade of the sight won't be properly aligned. Thanks for your patience. Harry Harry, You don't say what distance you were at, but at 100 yds, one full rotation of the front sight will move your point of impact approximately 6". You want to do the major changes on the front sight (one full rotation from proper position at a time)and the minor adjustments on the rear sight. Once zeroed at the closest actual distance you know that you'll have to shoot, you can then dope out the rear sight at the other known distances and shouldn't have to mess with the front sight again. IBZ firing a shorter distance to simulate a longer distance is okay for a tactical carbine, but for a match rifle it is always best to actually shoot the known distances and dope the rear sight to each of the known distances for the type of match(es) you'll be shooting. You'll want to get proficient at counting clicks on your sights, and you'll want to mark your zero so you can always go back to it if/when needed. I've seen stickers, paint pens, White-Out...all sorts of "stuff" used to mark sights for thos emoments, and an awful lot of laminated note cards (featuring zero, distances and sight clicks) taped to the sdies of buttstocks. Steve/RRA |
| Congratulations on getting the best out of the box NM rifle there is. I had an A2, and made Master with it in one year. Its a capable rifle. I shot the barrel out of it and it has been the rifle that got me to where I am at now with High Power. Last year at Perry, I stopped in the RRA shop and got a chance to personally thank the owner of RRA. Its a great rifle and never had any issues. 100% everytime and it puts them where you point them. |
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Steve,
Is there a way to tell what size the aperature on the rear sight hole is? When I look through the rear sight the hole seems "large"...there is enough room around the front sight that I have to really pay attention to be sure the sight picture is the same. I am thinking that if the hole was smaller there would be less room and it may help me with consistency of the front sight picture. I know that there are after-market sight kits (Bob Jones, White Oak, etc.) but don't know what this aperature size is, so I don't know where to start. I do have old eyes, but don't wear glasses for distance vision - only when I read, and the front sight appears to be sharply in focus. Harry |
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Thanks, Steve,
I went back and looked and it is a .040. So, can you get the .030 without ordering the kit? What's your advice about this...leave it alone and quit fooling around or it's easy to change and you should try it. I've been reading about this and people seem to be all over with different sizes. As I said, my thought is that the smaller aperature should provide a more consistent picture because there's less room to move the front sight components around in the "viewing window". I don't know if that's going to be true or not, and I'm sure there will be some limitations...like low light. I'm perfectly happy with the rifle and I will eventually learn to shoot it well. I'm just trying to figure out how. 
Harry |
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Different strokes for different folks.
We have people tell us that .030 isn't small enough and others who buy multiple .040s to drill out to larger apertures for different light conditions (and that will make a difference). You can get the .030 hooded aperture with o-ring (part number AR0067HR30)for $17 plus S/H if you want to see if it helps. Thanks. Steve/RRA |
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The o-ring Ithat mentioned in the description of the part to order provides all the friction (okay for those who are going to correct me, I know that it's turgor pressure) to retain the aperture without using any kind of locking compound. That will also be the pressure that you'll have to overcome to remove the current aperture. Sometimes you can get them out with strong finger pressure. Other times it will take soem sort of gripping tool (serrated needle nose, etc..) to remove it. If using a tool, try to protect the apertur with a piece of cloth or rubber before taking the tool to it.
Steve/RRA |