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AR15.COM
11/29/2005 12:46:36 AM EDT
I have a Colt 16" HBARII competition marked match target  that I purchased in 1999.

Now what strikes me odd is that I thought the match targets were not drilled for the front pivot dedent since they have the screw assembly. However mine is drilled for the dedent.

What would I need in order to convert the front pivot? Do I just need the spring and proper pin?

Which model do I have MT66? The C Model must have been produced after mine yet I do have the F marked front sight as well as the M-4 feed ramps and upper with M-4 ramps (M is stamped to the lower right of the barrel extention on the receiver.

My other quandrey is how far to take the rifle. Current configration is threaded barrel, vortex, Magpul 93-B, MAID grip, Troy MRFC, Aimpoint in Larue mount, LMT rear buis. Now do I continue down the road and change out the trigger. replace the carrier with a Young NM and add wolf extractor springs?

Or do I stop, since I have never had one FTF or extract and use this rifle as is and purchase a 6920 and build it up with all the extras, OAL, NV, TD vert grip, maybe ABS barrel for gemtech supp.

Or hell leave the 6920 stock and build up the MT

I would appreciate all opinions, sorry for being a little long winded.

I have enjoyed this site since 1999 and have tried very hard to keep my mouth shut and eyes open and learn as much as possible. Hence the 52 post count
11/29/2005 1:06:01 AM EDT
[#1]

Quoted:
Do I just need the spring and proper pin?



yep


The C Model must have been produced after mine


C model comes with a comp installed


change out the trigger. replace the carrier with a Young NM and add wolf extractor springs?


Extractor springs won't hurt, NM carrier serves no purpose and the stock trigger works for most uses.


Or do I stop, since I have never had one FTF or extract


I'd leave well enough alone
11/29/2005 1:15:43 AM EDT
[#2]
You need a spring, detent, and pivot pin.  Probably good to have spare detents, as they get lost sometimes during installation.  Find out if you have a .250 pivot pin, or a .312.

Tip - using needlenose pliers, put a kink in the spring near one end, then put the spring into the receiver with the kink-end in first.  Keeps the spring from launching during (dis)assembly - not much you can do about the detent except to either buy the installation tool, or to simply SWAG it using something flat and thin, like a razor blade.  Do it in an area that is well-lit, and with a flat floor with nothing for the detent to hide behind.  I like to put a towel over the receiver so it traps the detent if it launches.

Also - wear eye protection.



www.specializedarmament.com

Part #: SP62221
Description: PIVOT PIN, (0.250) M16 PUSH PIN TYPE
Price: 15.00

Part #: SP61698
Description: PIVOT PIN/TAKEDOWN PIN DETENT
Price: 2.00

Part #: SP61692
Description: PIVOT PIN/TAKEDOWN PIN DETENT SPRING
Price: 2.00

HTH,

SF

11/29/2005 1:30:06 AM EDT
[#3]
Great info. I will check the pivot size and place an order with saw.

wisest action would be not to start changing any bcg components, since I have not experienced any issues. Of course buying the right AR first probably helped in this instance.

11/29/2005 1:38:58 AM EDT
[#4]

Quoted:
Of course buying the right AR first probably helped in this instance.





11/29/2005 4:29:08 AM EDT
[#5]
I always use an extra front pin,
put it in from the other end,
put in the spring and detent,
push the detent down with a screw driver while pushing the backwards pin over on to it being careful not to line up the detent groove,
then use the new pin to push out the other keeping the detent in place


and yea the right AR the first time was a good move
11/29/2005 7:59:14 AM EDT
[#6]
SAW isn't great about answering phones.  AFAIK, Tina is the only person tasked with that, and SAW is a very busy shop.

I have the best luck with FAXing my orders (itemized list of what I want, name/address/phone/email, credit card info).

SF
11/29/2005 8:09:55 AM EDT
[#7]
I've never had any problem with inserting the spring and detent and then pushing in the detent with the round side of the pivot pin then inserting and rolling the pivot pin into alinement. If the spring is too long to let the detent set in the mouth of the spring tunnel I check the depth of the tunnel with a drill bit to make sure there is no blasting media or metal filings inside then cut the spring to length. Sometimes a dab of grease is needed to make the detent stick to the spring.
11/29/2005 11:17:45 AM EDT
[#8]
Nice Colt MT6731 Match Target Competition HBAR II per your description.

For improvements Wolff extractor spring, Colt M16 BCG and push pivot pin are all great components which I have on my 6721 Tactical Carbine.

I would recommend using a clear plastic bag over your lower receiver when installing the push pivot pin.

I got my push pivot pins from SAW which I just ordered from their website.

My father's Colt 7.62X39 carbine also have the detent hole for the push pin so I installed my spare push pin and he likes it.

My other suggestion would be a Surefire or similar quality tactical light and a vote for the 6920 and you could also customize it or keep it original.
11/29/2005 12:34:03 PM EDT
[#9]
Great replies guys.

What about changing out to a mid-length barrel? I am thinking of a Gemtech M4 with bi-lock, would the mid be better for the surpressor? Less back pressure hence easier on the rifle.

Still intriqued with the ABS carbon wrapped barrel
11/29/2005 3:29:04 PM EDT
[#10]
I got one of these tools at Bushmaster for pushing out the takedown and pivot pins. It is made of polymar, and also aids in the installation of your pivot detent. Bushmaster calls it the push-pin tool.

11/29/2005 3:30:43 PM EDT
[#11]

Quoted:
I got one of these tools at Bushmaster for pushing out the takedown and pivot pins. It is made of polymar, and also aids in the installation of your pivot detent. Bushmaster calls it the push-pin tool.

www.bushmaster.com/shopping/accessories/Images/pushpintool.jpg



Why not just use car keys or a loaded cartridge?
11/29/2005 3:34:07 PM EDT
[#12]
or the pin itself
11/30/2005 8:57:20 PM EDT
[#13]

Quoted:
Great replies guys.

What about changing out to a mid-length barrel? I am thinking of a Gemtech M4 with bi-lock, would the mid be better for the surpressor? Less back pressure hence easier on the rifle.

Still intriqued with the ABS carbon wrapped barrel


I have ordered my 16" Operator mid-length gas system (by Denny of Global Tactical Supply) which have a heavier profile than the Gov't profile but thinner than the HBAR profile of the Colt 6721 tactical carbine.

It is also a match grade barrel chrome moly, chrome lined barrel. I was also looking at the ABS carbon fiber wrapped barrel and I decided to go with the Operator because of the big difference in cost.

Maybe I'll try to decide on the ABS barrel later on my future projects.

The mid-length barrels have the following advantages; more handguard room for lights and lasers, longer sight radius, the gas system is more efficient in cold weather conditions, less gas pressure and smoother action and a standard bayonet could be used.

There are a lot of handguard rails makers that offer mid-length size, I just received my 9.0 FF rails from LaRue with free armadillo cap opener and tan cap. I also have a Samson mid-length FF rails.


Operator mid-length barrel thread link
11/30/2005 11:52:26 PM EDT
[#14]
Thank you for the replies/

I did not consider the cold weather app of the midlength, considering I live in AK this alone would be enought to push me over to the midliength camp

By the way. got the dedent swicthed over cost me all of $5.50  My FFL is a great guy and had new pin,spring etc.