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AR15.COM
1/11/2010 6:40:01 PM EDT
Kind of a dumb question but I'm stumped. I bought this UBR used and I'm trying to setup the Rear QD socket for a right handed shooter but am obviously missing something.  I took out the hex screw and thought the QD socket would just pull out then swap to the other side but it doesn't seem to come out.  Is my UBR supposed to have another socket on the other side?  I'm confused lol.. Sorry for the low quality pics.

This is the side I want to be able to utilize:

The socket is only on this side now:


Thanks guys!
1/11/2010 6:47:04 PM EDT
[#1]
Tag for info. I'm trying to do the reverse and having a helluva time pulling the socket out.
1/11/2010 6:52:47 PM EDT
[#2]
I'm wondering if it just pulls out or what?  I've tried beating it on the side of the table with no avail I need some more thin pliers than what I can find to really grab ahold of it.
1/11/2010 7:01:57 PM EDT
[#3]
I was yanking on mine with some needlenose pliers to no avail...
1/11/2010 7:08:17 PM EDT
[#4]
That's why I'm thinking maybe there is supposed to be another socket in that side or something?  Heck I don't know, someone with more knowledge will be along shorty I'm sure.
1/11/2010 8:27:57 PM EDT
[#5]
Very odd.  Both the rear and front sling swivel sockets on mine are on the left side of the stock.  I tried pulling the rear one, to set it up on the right side of the forward socket mount point, and couldn't get it out.  I removed the bolt and tried to pull it with a QD sling swivel inserted into the socket, no dice.
1/11/2010 8:49:24 PM EDT
[#6]
You guys are thinking too much.

Put the QD swivel into the QD cup, assuming that you've already removed the screw and nut.

Put a quadruple-layer chunk of duct tape next to it (the open end of the QD cup).

Run a monster-sized standard screwdriver through the QD swivel loop and place the tip on the quadrupled duct tape.

Use the screw driver as a reverse lever to pry out the QD cup.

If you're squeamish about using the duct tape, use a flat of a metal ruler or square.

When replacing the QD cup on the other side, lube it a little before inserting the screw and tightening the nut.

We've had to do this to all of our UBRs except for the two pre-production units that have QD cups fore and aft, port and starboard.


1/11/2010 9:12:44 PM EDT
[#7]
I gotta say, I'm a little concerned with being told to just pry it off using sideways pressure...
1/11/2010 9:59:25 PM EDT
[#8]
It's upward pressure using a fulcrum.

EDIT: Take that chunk of duct tape and quadruple fold it, and it gets pretty thick. Almost as high as the inside of the QD loop.
1/11/2010 10:04:58 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
You guys are thinking too much.

Put the QD swivel into the QD cup, assuming that you've already removed the screw and nut.

Put a quadruple-layer chunk of duct tape next to it (the open end of the QD cup).

Run a monster-sized standard screwdriver through the QD swivel loop and place the tip on the quadrupled duct tape.

Use the screw driver as a reverse lever to pry out the QD cup.

If you're squeamish about using the duct tape, use a flat of a metal ruler or square.

When replacing the QD cup on the other side, lube it a little before inserting the screw and tightening the nut.

We've had to do this to all of our UBRs except for the two pre-production units that have QD cups fore and aft, port and starboard.




Great explanation
1/11/2010 10:05:43 PM EDT
[#10]
After trying to bang out the QD cup from the opposite side with a hammer and punch for 10 minutes, I put a QD swivel in it and pried it upward and out with a screw driver. It actually came out really easily that way.
1/12/2010 2:54:28 AM EDT
[#11]
Quoted:
You guys are thinking too much.

Put the QD swivel into the QD cup, assuming that you've already removed the screw and nut.

Put a quadruple-layer chunk of duct tape next to it (the open end of the QD cup).

Run a monster-sized standard screwdriver through the QD swivel loop and place the tip on the quadrupled duct tape.

Use the screw driver as a reverse lever to pry out the QD cup.

If you're squeamish about using the duct tape, use a flat of a metal ruler or square.

When replacing the QD cup on the other side, lube it a little before inserting the screw and tightening the nut.

We've had to do this to all of our UBRs except for the two pre-production units that have QD cups fore and aft, port and starboard.




I think I can be forgiven for wanting to use at least a little care with my $265 stock.    It just wasn't important enough for me to work at it too hard, just something I tried once.
1/12/2010 5:41:12 AM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
You guys are thinking too much.

Put the QD swivel into the QD cup, assuming that you've already removed the screw and nut.

Put a quadruple-layer chunk of duct tape next to it (the open end of the QD cup).

Run a monster-sized standard screwdriver through the QD swivel loop and place the tip on the quadrupled duct tape.

Use the screw driver as a reverse lever to pry out the QD cup.

If you're squeamish about using the duct tape, use a flat of a metal ruler or square.

When replacing the QD cup on the other side, lube it a little before inserting the screw and tightening the nut.

We've had to do this to all of our UBRs except for the two pre-production units that have QD cups fore and aft, port and starboard.




All I needed to know, thanks!  I just didn't want to pry and pry if it wasn't supposed to pop out like that.  I'll get that bad boy out tonight
1/12/2010 7:53:02 AM EDT
[#13]
Did mine like this earlier, worked just fine.  Now I've got both receiver end QD cups in place, can use my 2 point as a 1 point just by using both of those.  
1/12/2010 11:21:32 AM EDT
[#14]
I had a how to on the board somewhere, but public search i limited to 30 days.  Someone can probably find it and link it.
1/12/2010 12:24:22 PM EDT
[#15]
Just as I expected, my QD loop is in multiple pieces now...
1/12/2010 12:33:04 PM EDT
[#16]
Quoted:
Just as I expected, my QD loop is in multiple pieces now...


When I did mine earlier, I used the QD loop that came with a KAC hand stop I got a while back, with a castle nut wrench through it (nice flat surface was better than the screwdriver, which wanted to move as I pulled on it), on the duct tape.  Got it most of the way out, then wiggled/pulled with a single point's QD loop in the socket.
1/12/2010 1:16:34 PM EDT
[#17]
Quoted:
Just as I expected, my QD loop is in multiple pieces now...


That's interesting. Did it come with the UBR or was it some aftermarket one?

I've used this technique with several of my UBRs as I've moved the QD cups to the right side and never had one bend or break.
1/12/2010 3:16:21 PM EDT
[#18]
I think it was an uncle mike's qd loop...



Upon further inspection, the front QD loop I use on my LaRue handguard is a heavier duty Midwest Industries socket....I managed to use the screwdriver trick with that loop to successfully remove the socket...

1/12/2010 3:22:11 PM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
I think it was an uncle mike's qd loop...


Could be your problem.

The other is that on all of mine or my son's, I was pretty tame on how much leverage I put on the QD swivel. I also remember using a small breaker bar used for trim on one of them. It provided more even pressure across the top of the QD swivel. I only used this once.
1/12/2010 3:40:08 PM EDT
[#20]
Now I just need to hammer this sucker the rest of the way into the other side...I'm using a Vickers sling, so I'm using some extra length of that as a pad for the hammer

1/12/2010 3:49:09 PM EDT
[#21]
Lube it before slamming it home . . .
1/12/2010 4:25:33 PM EDT
[#22]



Quoted:


Lube it before slamming it home . . .


Too late




 
1/12/2010 6:17:03 PM EDT
[#23]
Got mine out with no issues.  I just inserted my Larue/Vtac sling in and pulled on it til it came out, no prying needed.  I did have to take some duct tape and a hammer to it to beat it into the other side though.  Thanks again guys!
1/13/2010 7:04:56 PM EDT
[#24]
Drove mine out from the back side with a punch.