Posted: 12/20/2009 4:41:08 PM EDT
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Ok... let's try this again. My original schematic was far too complex for an EmComm Box. It would have been great for a base station, but not for mobile. ORIGINAL:  REDUX:  So... I've finally got the shelf in. It's sturdy, durable, and has vents for air circulation. I played around with the organization and came up with something that should work well. I didn't realize I had some money in my PayPal account from selling a few items (thought it automatically transfers to my bank account). I used the "forgotten funds" to buy an LDG AT100 Pro Antenna Tuner from Cheapham.com. Tunes 160-6m. I screwed down the DPDT relay (and ground bar) and used Industrial Strength Velcro to secure the rest of the electronics (also acts as a minor shock absorber). The vent holes were perfect size to thread webbing velcro straps to make it extra secure.   I also got my Automatic Power Off switch (APO). i.e. If I turn off my car and the voltage dips below a preset voltage (12.7vdc, or whatever I set it to), it will automatically power off after 10min to prevent power drain when not in use (i.e. 12v fan). I'm also planning to run a bypass so if I take this into a shelter, camping, etc., it will bypass the APO.  Now to tackle the 120v. I wasn't sure what type of connector I was going to use for 120v... until I had realized I had a busted power supply from an old PC. I cannibalized it. Saved me a few bucks of buying and shipping. I had thought about buying a socket with a RFI filter, but the 120vac is only powering the SEC 1235 power supply and that already has a built-in RFI filter... so I'm covered there. It took a while to get the solder off and separate it from the rest of the electronics, but finally came apart.   The breakfast table was my makeshift work station.  Ok, so this is what it looks like so far...  I have everything in Powerpoles because the shelf comes out from the front. The rear panel comes off from... you get the idea. If I ever need to get into the case and pull something out, I would need quick disconnects. I've tested the electrical connections and all work very well. Plugged the power in and it did exactly what I designed it to do. All the negative/ground wires are connected to the ground bar, which is screwed to the shelf. REAR OF THE CASE The rear lid will contain cords, wires, etc. For now, it houses the 120vac power cord.     FRONT OF THE CASE The front lid is used for temporarily storing the manual to the rig and Antenna tuner, the schematic to the case, and a few band plans.  I couldn't believe how much space there was between the lid and the box. With the head unit on, the lid still closes with ease.    Right now I have on order several bulkhead so239's to mount in the rear panel... then the electrical sockets. After that, run the coax, connect everything and... BAM!... it's all done.  I'll follow up with more pics once I've gotten the coax connectors and cable. I will also mount a 12vdc fan that I've cannibalized from the PC again to circulate heat out of the box. I'm also thinking about mounting an LED strip (low amp) for lighting the case in front... if I am ever writing something down. Critiques are always welcomed, but don't be too hard on me...  |
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Quoted: Thanks mate. Consider my reply a tag  What I enjoy most about your plans in particular is the attention to detail. You will hear no criticism from me. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Quoted: Yeah, I've thought about that and eliminated the 120vac fan overall... but I didn't feel like redesigning, copy, paste, save file, upload to photobucket, modify and add my call sign, copy/paste link to here. I just plan on using a 12vdc fan. Sorry for not clarifying that earlier. why a 12v fan and a 120v? either way the 12v will/can be running when you have power? as long as theres good airflow around the case the 12v will handle cooling. |
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no problem. looks good. whats the weight on it?
edit: forget to add. if your going to be using this in a shelter, why not just take the tray out to help with any heating issues. also, if you can make it removable even while mobile setup outside when on battery it will help with cooling and you wont need to run the fan as much, if any at all. |
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I am liking this new design much better. Cleaner and neater. Every ham needs a salvage (not junk) box for project parts. LOL Any recent thoughts on a portable battery box? That is the biggest hang up with mine right now. Hint: Check out the Nifty manuals. My FT-100D is a pain if I don't use it and forget the menus. http://www.niftyaccessories.com/Yaesu_cards.htm |
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Quoted: I've been thinking that heat won't be an issue because both lids will come off. It's very open to begin with, plus there's vents on the shelf for the heat to escape from the bottom. no problem. looks good. whats the weight on it? edit: forget to add. if your going to be using this in a shelter, why not just take the tray out to help with any heating issues. also, if you can make it removable even while mobile setup outside when on battery it will help with cooling and you wont need to run the fan as much, if any at all. I like the idea, but the 120vac relay is exposed (with wires tucked out of the way). Taking the shelf out will expose the open relay to accidental touching and that is an electrical shock hazard. Keeping the shelf inside the case and the relay won't harm anyone. ETA: I'm not sure how much it weighs. I'll need to borrow a scale. It's not that heavy, but then again, my idea of light is someone's idea of heavy. lol Quoted: I've been looking at that... was also looking at this one for the FT857D from Ebay ($11) (temporary listing). I'm not sure which one I'll get. I am liking this new design much better. Cleaner and neater. Every ham needs a salvage (not junk) box for project parts. LOL Any recent thoughts on a portable battery box? That is the biggest hang up with mine right now. Hint: Check out the Nifty manuals. My FT-100D is a pain if I don't use it and forget the menus. http://www.niftyaccessories.com/Yaesu_cards.htm ETA: I'm not sure about portable battery box. I've thought about buying the same case again and just make it strictly a power box. It's also stack-able too. I contacted my father and he said he'll give me his gas generator. I just have to figure out what condition the generator is in. ETA2: Here's my idea of the battery box... ***This schematic will change when I incorporate a solar panel to also charge the batteries. For now, just 120vac:  |
That connector you took of the Computer Power Supply is a tough bugger to find locally I had to order one from Ebay. Granted my project is the winter project and I am still working on it shipping isn't bugging me. Your case looks amazing I only wish my Emcomm box could have some of the toys you have in yours. But until I get General mine will have to do. Looks great keep up the good work! 
ETA: someone in WI wanna help me out a little with mine? I am trying to figure out how to wire everything up. Or some internet help would be great. Not to hijack your thread. |
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Quoted: IM sentThat connector you took of the Computer Power Supply is a tough bugger to find locally I had to order one from Ebay. Granted my project is the winter project and I am still working on it shipping isn't bugging me. Your case looks amazing I only wish my Emcomm box could have some of the toys you have in yours. But until I get General mine will have to do. Looks great keep up the good work! ETA: someone in WI wanna help me out a little with mine? I am trying to figure out how to wire everything up. Or some internet help would be great. Not to hijack your thread. ETA: Trust me... the toys in my box doesn't compare to some in this forum. You ought to see one of the member's EmComm/MARS box... that's what motivated me to get a similar case, but different setup. |
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design looks good.
i do have one comment, and it is safety related... you should not use standard Andersen PowerPole connectors for 120Vac applications. this connector is designed primarily for SELV circuits as defined in IEC 60950 (that is, less than 60V). in fact, Anderson makes a special version of the PowerPole for high voltage AC applications: http://www.andersonpower.com/files.php?file=DS-FPPP15-45(6).pdf moreover, you should not be using a quick-connect style connector for the green wire ground lead (the center pin of the IEC inlet connector you pulled from the PC power supply). on production electrical equipment, using a quick connect for the ground is prohibited by every safety standard and agency, including UL –– for good reason. there should be no way that the ground lead could become inadvertently disconnected, leading to a situation where the metal chassis could become live without popping the branch circuit breaker. for this reason, the ground wire from the IEC inlet connector should be directly and securely fastened, via a screw or threaded stud+nut, to the metal chassis. the IEC 60950 safety requirements document costs money to get but here is a brief overview of the wording in IEC 60950, http://www.i-spec.com/Product_Design/earthing.html note the 2nd paragraph in the "Design Tips" section. ar-jedi |
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Quoted: design looks good. i do have one comment, and it is safety related... you should not use standard Andersen PowerPole connectors for 120Vac applications. this connector is designed primarily for SELV circuits as defined in IEC 60950 (that is, less than 60V). in fact, Anderson makes a special version of the PowerPole for high voltage AC applications: http://www.andersonpower.com/files.php?file=DS-FPPP15-45(6).pdf moreover, you should not be using a quick-connect style connector for the green wire ground lead (the center pin of the IEC inlet connector you pulled from the PC power supply). on production electrical equipment, using a quick connect for the ground is prohibited by every safety standard and agency, including UL –– for good reason. there should be no way that the ground lead could become inadvertently disconnected, leading to a situation where the metal chassis could become live without popping the branch circuit breaker. for this reason, the ground wire from the IEC inlet connector should be directly and securely fastened, via a screw or threaded stud+nut, to the metal chassis. the IEC 60950 safety requirements document costs money to get but here is a brief overview of the wording in IEC 60950, http://www.i-spec.com/Product_Design/earthing.html note the 2nd paragraph in the "Design Tips" section. ar-jedi Those Powerpoles pictured are the PP30's I'm using. Judging from the document you linked, the PP30's are rated for 30amps, **600v. If you look at the fine print, it says both **AC & DC voltage. Unless I'm missing something, I believe that the 'current' ones I have will work, no pun intended.  You are correct about the ground wire, thanks for the safety advice. I will make the changes. I will make the ground wire one long piece. One end will be soldered to the socket. The other end will have the ring connector to attach to the stud + wing nut (mounted on the shelf). That will provide a sturdy solid grounding... yet also allow me a disconnect. Thanks for the heads up. I will rework it in the next few days. What would I do without you guys? |
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Quoted:
I'm clueless about this stuff and trying to learn more. What capabilities will the completed design give you? Is this basically designed to be a easily transportable comm package, rather than having everything hardwired into one vehicle? see http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=10&f=22&t=604477#10323272 and this recent build-up as well http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=10&f=22&t=627490 ar-jedi |
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Quoted:
Those Powerpoles pictured are the PP30's I'm using. you purchased the special "Finger Proof" version of the PowerPole connectors? you will note from the datasheet linked above: The PP15/45 Finger Proof is designed specifically for high voltage applications where personal safety is critical. The connector meets the accessibility requirements of UL1977 section 10.2 and is recommended for applications over 50 volts.
it's not the connector voltage rating that is the problem. separable connectors designed specifically for voltages over 60V have the metallic contacts recessed (or mechanically protected) to prevent inadvertent contact with people or nearby parts. look at the female end of a standard extension cord, for example. there is a specially designed mechanical "finger" and related "tool" that the safety agencies use to test this –– they are called "accessibility probes". all is documented in UL1977 (UL Standard for Safety Component Connectors for Use in Data, Signal, Control and Power Applications). anyway, i'm nitpicking here because 120Vac is unforgiving... inadvertent contact can cause death via electrocution. ar-jedi |
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Quoted: Quoted: Those Powerpoles pictured are the PP30's I'm using. you purchased the special "Finger Proof" version of the PowerPole connectors? you will note from the datasheet linked above: The PP15/45 Finger Proof is designed specifically for high voltage applications where personal safety is critical. The connector meets the accessibility requirements of UL1977 section 10.2 and is recommended for applications over 50 volts. it's not the connector voltage rating that is the problem. separable connectors designed specifically for voltages over 60V have the metallic contacts recessed (or mechanically protected) to prevent inadvertent contact with people or nearby parts. look at the female end of a standard extension cord, for example. there is a specially designed mechanical "finger" and related "tool" that the safety agencies use to test this –– they are called "accessibility probes". all is documented in UL1977 (UL Standard for Safety Component Connectors for Use in Data, Signal, Control and Power Applications). anyway, i'm nitpicking here because 120Vac is unforgiving... inadvertent contact can cause death via electrocution. ar-jedi Ahh... I see what you're saying. No, they're not finger proof then. Honestly, I don't think this will be a problem because the rear panel will never come off (screwed down) unless I need to have access for what ever reason. If so, the power will automatically be unplugged. I don't see a reason why anyone else would take the shelf out other than me. I'll probably place an Shock Hazard sticker on the rear of the case. Speaking of inadvertent contact, I've did it 3 times in my life, all with the 120v. First Time I was 4yo... I put a power cord from a radio into my mouth while the other end was plugged in. I had a burned mark on my tongue and a serious jolt before the circuit breaker kicked in. Second Time I was 7yo when my dad was working underneath the car and he asked me to plug in the big fan (was very hot that day). He didn't realize that I came from outside, which was raining and I was soaked. I grabbed the plug, plugged it in, got a serious jolt and the circuit breaker popped. That kinda hurt. Third time I was 17yo when I was trying to install the motion-sensor lights and I wanted to see how much cord I needed. I plugged in one end and ran the length of the cord. I got distracted from someone asking me a long question. Then I was on the ladder totally forgetting about unplugging it. I took a pair a tin snips and the next thing I knew... I remember seeing a bright flash of blue across my eyes (since I was cutting the wire about a foot away from my face), fell off the ladder and don't remember how long I was passed out for. I just remember waking up off the driveway with a goose egg and a funky feeling for several hours. And yes... the circuit breaker kicked in. Circuit breakers are truly you friends. I'm really hoping that after all that I have learned about electricity via Ham Radio, I will not have a Fourth Time.  It does explain why I'm probably a little odd at times. |
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Quoted: Ok... let's try this again. My original schematic was far too complex for an EmComm Box. It would have been great for a base station, but not for mobile. ORIGINAL: http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/ChinoUSMC/Ham%20Radio/EmCommSchematic02.jpg REDUX: http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/ChinoUSMC/Ham%20Radio/EmCommSchematic04.jpg So... I've finally got the shelf in. It's sturdy, durable, and has vents for air circulation. I played around with the organization and came up with something that should work well. I didn't realize I had some money in my PayPal account from selling a few items (thought it automatically transfers to my bank account). I used the "forgotten funds" to buy an LDG AT100 Pro Antenna Tuner from Cheapham.com. Tunes 160-6m. I screwed down the DPDT relay (and ground bar) and used Industrial Strength Velcro to secure the rest of the electronics (also acts as a minor shock absorber). The vent holes were perfect size to thread webbing velcro straps to make it extra secure. http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/ChinoUSMC/Ham%20Radio/IMG_0011.jpg http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/ChinoUSMC/Ham%20Radio/IMG_0009.jpg I also got my Automatic Power Off switch (APO). i.e. If I turn off my car and the voltage dips below a preset voltage (12.7vdc, or whatever I set it to), it will automatically power off after 10min to prevent power drain when not in use (i.e. 12v fan). I'm also planning to run a bypass so if I take this into a shelter, camping, etc., it will bypass the APO. http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/ChinoUSMC/Ham%20Radio/IMG_0006.jpg Now to tackle the 120v. I wasn't sure what type of connector I was going to use for 120v... until I had realized I had a busted power supply from an old PC. I cannibalized it. Saved me a few bucks of buying and shipping. I had thought about buying a socket with a RFI filter, but the 120vac is only powering the SEC 1235 power supply and that already has a built-in RFI filter... so I'm covered there. It took a while to get the solder off and separate it from the rest of the electronics, but finally came apart. http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/ChinoUSMC/Ham%20Radio/IMG_0014.jpg http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/ChinoUSMC/Ham%20Radio/IMG_0016-1.jpg The breakfast table was my makeshift work station. http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/ChinoUSMC/Ham%20Radio/IMG_0017-1.jpg Ok, so this is what it looks like so far... http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/ChinoUSMC/Ham%20Radio/IMG_0019-1.jpg I have everything in Powerpoles because the shelf comes out from the front. The rear panel comes off from... you get the idea. If I ever need to get into the case and pull something out, I would need quick disconnects. I've tested the electrical connections and all work very well. Plugged the power in and it did exactly what I designed it to do. All the negative/ground wires are connected to the ground bar, which is screwed to the shelf. REAR OF THE CASE The rear lid will contain cords, wires, etc. For now, it houses the 120vac power cord. http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/ChinoUSMC/Ham%20Radio/IMG_0028-1.jpg http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/ChinoUSMC/Ham%20Radio/IMG_0029-1.jpg http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/ChinoUSMC/Ham%20Radio/IMG_0031-1.jpg http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/ChinoUSMC/Ham%20Radio/IMG_0039.jpg FRONT OF THE CASE The front lid is used for temporarily storing the manual to the rigand Antenna tuner, the schematic to the case, and a few band plans. http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/ChinoUSMC/Ham%20Radio/IMG_0038.jpg I couldn't believe how much space there was between the lid and thebox. With the head unit on, the lid still closes with ease. http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/ChinoUSMC/Ham%20Radio/IMG_0040.jpg http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/ChinoUSMC/Ham%20Radio/IMG_0033.jpg http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/ChinoUSMC/Ham%20Radio/IMG_0036.jpg Right now I have on order several bulkhead so239's to mount in the rear panel... then the electrical sockets. After that, run the coax, connect everything and... BAM!... it's all done. I'll follow up with more pics once I've gotten the coax connectors and cable. I will also mount a 12vdc fan that I've cannibalized from the PC again to circulate heat out of the box. I'm also thinking about mounting an LED strip (low amp) for lighting the case in front... if I am ever writing something down. Critiques are always welcomed, but don't be too hard on me... Lookin' goood!! I noticed you have space yet. One of the things I put in mine is a drawer to set my laptop on for digital work. It just pulls out on runners. I have frequency lists and other datasheets taped tothe bottom of it. If I need to, I can set the laptop on top of the box, lift out the drawer, flip it over, and there is all my freq dope. The concept was to be able to set the box on a small table, saw-horses, or the like and have a place for my laptop. I'm also fixing to put my antenna out connections on several SO239-bulkhead adapters mounted through the case so I can hook up to them and not have to fish for the coax. I think I'll put 2 on each rear corner. I can then run 2 meters on one radio and HF on the other. Problem with one, switch to the other. Redundancy. Nice job!! |
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MINOR UPDATE I took a few measurements and used the Dremel tool to cut a few square holes. It turned out perfect... but...    When I measured the holes (5/8"), used a punch and started drilling... the holes ended up being lopsided.  I'm kinda ticked, but if I ever decided to later down the road, I'll buy another panel and do it again. For now, this will do.     Ok... I know some of you are wondering about why I did the tuner connections and the VHF/HF connections on the other side the way I did them. Here is my reasoning... I have the ATAS-120A. That is primarily my mobile "auto-tuning" antenna. Inside my trunk is a duplexer that had attached to my rig. Everything is controlled automatically from my rig, through the duplexer and on to the ATAS. Now... when I disconnect everything and take it into a shelter/camping/etc, I may be operating VHF/HF antennas on separate cables. If I need to operate an antenna outside of my ATAS (plug in a different HF antenna), I can hook the antenna to the "Antenna Input"... Connect a 10" RG8 from the "HF Tuner Input" to the "HF Output" side of my rig. Guess what... it works. I gave it a quick test and it worked out. I played with the cable some more and tested VHF... came back Lima Charlie. I'm ordering some more RG8 to make 3 more 1' sections to connect from the boxes to the panel. It's almost complete. I'm hoping to have this done by either the end of Dec or the beginning of Jan. ETA: I may drill a hole in the center for the 12v PC fan. |
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Quoted: Thanks! <snip> I noticed you have space yet. Nice job!! I'm not sure what I'll be doing with it yet. Still contemplating on storage bin, maybe add a CB radio, maybe digital capabilities, etc. Laptop is kinda nice. I know they are selling the mini-me laptops for a few hundred dollars. Eh, we'll see. |
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UPDATE: My N9TAX J-Pole antenna (2m/70cm) came in today. I plugged it in and called for radio check. Reply was Loud n Clear. AWESOME! It's now a permanent addition to my EmComm Box.     Also on order for an early B-Day present is a Toshiba mini-me laptop (thanks to my father)... should arrive in two weeks. Now my next problem is figuring out how I will mount this thing. I will be buying a shelf that will slide out. So much for storing candy bars, chips, MREs and other junk food in that bottom shelf. lol. All I need now is a SignaLink and I believe I'm all set. |
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Quoted:
UPDATE: My N9TAX J-Pole antenna (2m/70cm) came in today. I plugged it in and called for radio check. Reply was Loud n Clear. AWESOME! It's now a permanent addition to my EmComm Box. http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/ChinoUSMC/Ham%20Radio/IMG_0156.jpg http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/ChinoUSMC/Ham%20Radio/IMG_0155.jpg http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/ChinoUSMC/Ham%20Radio/IMG_0154.jpg http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/ChinoUSMC/Ham%20Radio/IMG_0153.jpg Also on order for an early B-Day present is a Toshiba mini-me laptop (thanks to my father)... should arrive in two weeks. Now my next problem is figuring out how I will mount this thing. I will be buying a shelf that will slide out. So much for storing candy bars, chips, MREs and other junk food in that bottom shelf. lol. All I need now is a SignaLink and I believe I'm all set. Nice.
That's the same roll up Slim Jim I got. Mrs. BD gave me one of those little Netbooks for Christmas for future use with the EmComm HF radio. SignaLink USB is on the short list, also.
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I got my case from the Florida Case Depot. It's a SKB 4U shelf rack. I chose this for several reasons:
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I've been thinking that heat won't be an issue because both lids will come off. It's very open to begin with, plus there's vents on the shelf for the heat to escape from the bottom.
no problem. looks good. whats the weight on it? edit: forget to add. if your going to be using this in a shelter, why not just take the tray out to help with any heating issues. also, if you can make it removable even while mobile setup outside when on battery it will help with cooling and you wont need to run the fan as much, if any at all. I like the idea, but the 120vac relay is exposed (with wires tucked out of the way). Taking the shelf out will expose the open relay to accidental touching and that is an electrical shock hazard. Keeping the shelf inside the case and the relay won't harm anyone. ETA: I'm not sure how much it weighs. I'll need to borrow a scale. It's not that heavy, but then again, my idea of light is someone's idea of heavy. lol Quoted:
I've been looking at that... was also looking at this one for the FT857D from Ebay ($11) (temporary listing). I'm not sure which one I'll get.
I am liking this new design much better. Cleaner and neater. Every ham needs a salvage (not junk) box for project parts. LOL Any recent thoughts on a portable battery box? That is the biggest hang up with mine right now. Hint: Check out the Nifty manuals. My FT-100D is a pain if I don't use it and forget the menus. http://www.niftyaccessories.com/Yaesu_cards.htm ETA: I'm not sure about portable battery box. I've thought about buying the same case again and just make it strictly a power box. It's also stack-able too. I contacted my father and he said he'll give me his gas generator. I just have to figure out what condition the generator is in. ETA2: Here's my idea of the battery box... ***This schematic will change when I incorporate a solar panel to also charge the batteries. For now, just 120vac: http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/ChinoUSMC/Ham%20Radio/EmCommBatteryschematic.jpg I think you might want to isolate the 12VDC ground from the 120VAC ground in that battery box. But I could be wrong there. Vulture. |
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Quoted:
What case are you using? I see its a rack mount. on page 1: http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=10&f=22&t=630956&page=1#10757208 ar-jedi |
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I've thought about doing something similar to this, and i'm glad I ran across this thread as it gives me some ideas.
Also to the OP - if you think about doing another one like this or you really want the laptop option, you sould check out this case that SKB also makes SKB Studio Flyer Case I actually think this may be the start of my set-up. |