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I want a cucv.

Here's why. They got regular PMCS their whole life. They may have been dogged a bit but, knowing the rig received all regular PM means a great deal to me.

I used to drive one when i worked at Ft Rich at the NCO Academy. It always started and always ran well. They are designed to dump fuel into out of any container.

I recall  Ramchargers, Broncos , and Blazers as CUCV's. I reckon the gov had to share the wealth.

Another point is the fraud waste and abuse aspect. The military regularly throws away perfectly good gear.

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No experience with the military version.  I bought an 82 K5 with a 6.2, 700r4 and automatic hubs.

I put about 120,000 miles on it.  Easy miles.  Never hot rodded, pulled an aluminum 16' boat/trailer with it to the lake or the river sometimes.

The good....it never, ever got stuck, not in several feet of snow, not in the mud, not in the sand at the beach.  I pulled cars, trucks, and other SUVs out of trouble anytime the weather was bad.  It got good mileage.  I could get 18 around town and 22 on the highway on a trip.

The bad....two 700r4's rebuilt, 5 starters, U joints every couple of years, 3 exhaust systems, a set of injectors, 3 injector pumps rebuilt, one water pump (that one wasn't bad, any water pump that lasts 160,000 miles is okay by me), the automatic hubs (one of them) broke, 3 sets of batteries, two broken rocker arm shafts, one rebuilt rear end, a couple of sets of glow plugs and the sensor and relay for the glow plugs and one paint job.

That thing wouldn't spin the rear tires on wet pavement but it would tear up the transmission, u-joints and rear end.

To be a little more objective about it.  The 700r4's (early ones anyway) were pieces of crap.  Had GM correctly rebuilt it when it was under warranty it might not have broken the second time.  The second time it was out of warranty so I paid for the rebuild and the guy at the shop pointed out the stuff GM should have replaced when they rebuilt it the first time.  He put the heavier duty parts in it and I never had any more problems with it.  GM took advantage of me again with the first broken rocker arm shaft.  I knew when I got it back it still wasn't right (plus they'd soaked me for set of injectors telling me mine were "weak" and needed replacement) and the next time it broke that rocker arm shaft I fixied it myself.  Amazing what a broken valve spring will do to batter the crap out of a rocker arm shaft.  No more issues after I found and replaced the broken spring on the #6 cylinder exhaust vavle.

I'll never have another diesel.  The parts and maintenance repairs far outweighed the gas mileage increase.  If I ever have another large SUV it'll be a gas engine.  While the diesel may still be going strong at 180,000 miles (I've had gas engines with more miles on them) all the repairs and parts cost me enough to build and install a couple of gas engines.

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So very tempted to buy this... asking $3500 for a 1009 with 54k miles.



http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2780/4167653735_2a7e32573e_b.jpg

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Pertaining to the CUCVs.  

1. "does not start"  does it usually just mean the battery or something simple?  Unless stated?

2.  What is a good price for one at auction?


Bob

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That, sorry to say, is a K5. Nothing military about that. Chrome trim, bumpers, mirrors, split opening side windows... K5, if it's a 3/4 ton it's a K10.

I have a few M1009 CUCV's sitting in my driveway right now. My roommie has 3 and I have one. My best friend is a car dealer and just picked up about 20 CUCV's. I'm helping him paint/repair them right now on my week off from work.

BTW, Gov Liquidator's is crap. They destroy vehicles before they sell them. I've seen them pick up vehicles from the side by a forklift and bend drivelines, crush the body underneath the door, bend/destroy tires/rims or brake drums, break window glass, etc. This is how they move them around the yards. I've seen them pick up a Deuce before.

You guys buy them from GL all you want. I'll stick with a reputable dealer.
 

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That, sorry to say, is a K5. Nothing military about that. Chrome trim, bumpers, mirrors, split opening side windows... K5, if it's a 3/4 ton it's a K10.

I have a few M1009 CUCV's sitting in my driveway right now. My roommie has 3 and I have one. My best friend is a car dealer and just picked up about 20 CUCV's. I'm helping him paint/repair them right now on my week off from work.

BTW, Gov Liquidator's is crap. They destroy vehicles before they sell them. I've seen them pick up vehicles from the side by a forklift and bend drivelines, crush the body underneath the door, bend/destroy tires/rims or brake drums, break window glass, etc. This is how they move them around the yards. I've seen them pick up a Deuce before.

You guys buy them from GL all you want. I'll stick with a reputable dealer.
 

Quoted:







rtech,

VIN indicates it IS a former .mil vehicle.    1G8ED18J6EF######   I'm told that the vehicle has been partially "converted" back to civilian status.  



http://service.gm.com/dealerworld/vincards/pdf/vincard84.pdf

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Come on, you don't want all the rest of us to get all the great deals that are to be found in .gov surplus and leave you missing it and paying a premium to the 'dealers'?

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My apologies if that's the case. From what appears in the photo, nothing showing on that vehicle is military. Hubs, wheels, back glass, grill, brush guard is missing, slave plug or bridge plate missing, bumpers, interior seats - nothing. That is sad because that's the only thing that made it a military vehicle and collectible. It might be a salvage rebuilt on a rolling frame. That would explain all the chrome trim. Does it have an electric back window or electric locks? CUCV's do not have power accessories.

 

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Shipping plate on the door panel.



http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2687/4187078502_5ebe63c9f2_b.jpg

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Why would someone go to all the trouble to change it BACK into a K5?


 

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They are all close, indicating that there is fairly even wear and no individualy damaged cylinders.

That said, my memory tells me spec on a new 6.2 is 380-410, not 300.

Record compression gage reading while assistant cranks engine. Allow six puffs per cylinder.
NOTE
Normal compression should be 380-400 psi (2620-2758 kPa).
Repeat steps 2 and 3 for each cylinder. Lowest cylinder reading should not be less than 80% of
highest cylinder reading, and no cylinder reading should be less than 380 psi (2620 kPa).
Remove and inspect valves and piston rings for any cylinder that fails test.