User Panel
Posted: 9/30/2010 3:18:36 PM EDT
anyone have one ?
I was looking into getting one for general dicking around and figured the Survival Forum would be a good place to ask... Any other better options out there in this price range? ($6k) |
|
A couple on here have them. I like them and think they are great but they are too tall for me. I tried to sling my leg over a 2009 KLR at the dealer and couldnt get my leg over it.
|
|
I don't have one. Around here, Minnesota, they are easy to find used low miles for around 3k on craigslist. I have always wanted one but never have got one. Other options are the Suzuki DR 650, Honda XR, Used BMW's. KLR's are very popular. Check out KLR net LIke Die-Tryin said they are very tall, I can't touch very good either.
|
|
I've thrown around the idea of buying one for shtf alternative transport, but am not a 100% commited to one. I think about how much more stable a quad wheel ATV is and the cargo it can be equipped to carry. Not mention being able to spread out with my feet on the handle bars and my head on my pack at the rear and catch some z's quick or even shoot from one while moving with my pistol. |
|
They are a decent bike. The "old" klr had a decades-long run, and a cult-like following. The new versions (redesigned about two years ago) offer substantially upgraded brakes and a few other refinements.
The KLR looks like a dirt bike but its big and heavy. Too heavy for trails. It works great running two lane pavement and dirt/gravel roads. What do you want to do with it? If its 90% street/105 dirt, look at a V Strom. The 650 Vstrom has substantially more power (mid 60's HP IIRC) while the KLR runs more like mid 30's. I've driven a KLR and found it capable. I tend to drive street a LOT more than dirt, so the VStrom is more my style. If you are looking at 75 street/25 dirt, the KLR fits the bill. If you want to actually run trails, you might want to consider a smaller, more dirt-oriented bike. |
|
I have a 2010 , still in the break in mode . So I have not got to the full power of it yet . Its not the best for off road riding , But its not bad. I got it mainly for on road ,with some off road every now and then.
|
|
Want it so bad I can taste it if I can do the 685 conversion but If I could get my boss lady on one I would want a Vstrom 650
|
|
I worked on one for a friend, not something I'd want to go long distance when SHTF.
The suspension is too tall for me but it can be tuned down with an after market kit, same as the Suzuki DR 350. The sprockets could also use a few more teeth for the torque to weight factor, especially if your going to through a BoB on it. You may also want to consider the after market Baja Tank for added fuel capacity if you are considering this as a BoV There is also a manufacturer who makes hard case saddle bags for this bike, specifically for the Baja & Long Haul touring crowd. I've seen a few of the KLRs set up by those who traveled around South Africa & you can bet they are not stock KLR version. Everything has been upgraded or beefed up to accommodate for the lack of paved road ways & rough terrain. If its all you have so be it, but if you have the $$$ there are plenty of other options to consider, you cannot pack a whole lot on one bike & forget taking any family with you. my .02 |
|
|
Way too big for anything beyond some light fire roads, etc. I took one on the trails once and it handled like a dog.
|
|
What you want is a SuperMoto bike. Basically a dirt bike converted to ride on the street, with street appropriate tires/wheels/gearing.
Lighter and way more horsepower than a KLR. You could convert an XR650, or the new 450 four stroke from Honda. KTM makes some nice purpose built SuperMotos, but their $$$. |
|
i'm a moderator at KLR650.net
ti's tall, the stock suspension is weak and the brakes can use some help too. the "doohickey" needs to be upgraded to the aftermarket part made by Eagle Mike, the rear suspension needs to be pulled apart and lubed, it needs upgraded protection because the factory skid plate is purely cosmetic and there's no protection for the radiator unless you get an oversize IMS tank or one of the other aftermarket guards. the carb is lean from the factory. you can upgrade the suspension and improve the handling. it's also a very good idea to upgrade to the drill thru subframe bolt upgrade. there are some people who take them to places where many would want a dedicated trail bike. it's a very capable bike, and frequently very cheap on the used market. i'm not a huge fan of the "neew and improved" '08+ model. i like the older style. it's a very simple bike, and great if you like to DIY. i wouldn't buy a new one when you can find a used one for a fraction of the price. |
|
I've ridden motorcycles for 40 years. My last (and present) bike is a 2005 KLR650. Three years ago, I was driving home from work one night, and suddenly woke up from a coma one week later in the hospital. I have no recollection of the crash, but I had 13 broken bones, and a subdural hematoma. Lots of therapy and drugs, and I still walk with a limp. I've ridden the Autobahn. I've ridden in Rome, and Tokyo. If you can survive riding through Rome, you can survive anything... at least that's what I thought.
The KLR is a very capable bike. It has logged perhaps more world mileage than any other motorcycle. It is certainly one of the favored motorcycles for long-distance riders. The KLR is primitive, but that's the appeal. |
|
Jack of all trades. Master of none is the best way I can describe this bike. I had an 07 and liked it but it's a crappy dirt bike and so-so street bike. Power was OK and it was a reliable bike. Mostly used it for back and forth to work with the occasional rides up into the forest scouting for Elk and hunting a time or two (bow rack on the handlebars). I figured if I killed anything I'd ride back and get the pick up.
I'd probly buy another if I could find a used one with low miles for a couple grand. Oh yeah, riding with a passenger is a ball buster... |
|
|
Great bike, by looking at dual sport bikes traveing year round on I-40. BMW GS1300 and KLR-650 are the most popular. I have had a couple DR650s and now a KLR650 since the GS1300 is out of my price range. I love this bike. It is great for moderate off road and has decent power for communting. The 45 MPG thing is great too.
|
|
Quoted:
Great bike, by looking at dual sport bikes traveing year round on I-40. BMW GS1300 and KLR-650 are the most popular. I have had a couple DR650s and now a KLR650 since the GS1300 is out of my price range. I love this bike. It is great for moderate off road and has decent power for communting. The 45 MPG thing is great too. Basically, I want to use it to ride across grass here and there and to take it on old(er) roads like 40. Always wanted to drive all the way across 40. No family to speak of, 21 year old college kid who wants a cheaper fun ride for 'exploring'. |
|
Quoted:
Want it so bad I can taste it if I can do the 685 conversion but If I could get my boss lady on one I would want a Vstrom 650 Mine loves my WeeStrom. I got her on my GSXR1000 once..... she said she has never been that scared before in her life. Something about the passenger seat being so high, and mountain roads being so curvy. KLR is a reliable bike though, I just find them to be slowwwwww. I would rather have a XR650. My old KLX650 has been out of production for so long I wont even recommend it. For SHTF I would say a quad would be best for safety reasons. Plus more gear. You can go more places with a bike though if you know what you are doing. |
|
I had a KLR 600 in the late 80's. Bike was more street than trail. I eventually destroyed bike with my off road riding (broke swingarm and cracked frame). It ran great but wan't tough enough. I've hade all the Japanese brands over the years and Honda and Yamaha hold up better.
|
|
Quoted:
I have a 2010 , still in the break in mode . So I have not got to the full power of it yet . Its not the best for off road riding , But its not bad. I got it mainly for on road ,with some off road every now and then. Good little bike, medium fair fuel economy mine gets 50 miles pergallon, if I take it easy. goes under 49mpg if I am running hard.... limited top speed max out at 90mph, but not for long, you will destroy it running over 5000 rpm steadily. , they dont really LIKE to run a constant 75 miles per hour, but will run 65 all day and all night.. usable fuel capacity is 5.8 gallons, easy 275 mile range. Might be the best stock saddle in the motorcycle world, I had a 2200 mile WEEKEND on the stock KLR saddle. That is not a misprint, I rode from Kachemak bay to Prudhoe bay, across the state of Alaska AND BACK....., no tools deployed, Just Gasoline and drive chain lubricant. No issues, added 7 ounces of motor oil when I got home. Sorry to report, you are already getting "full power" that is all you get. maybe 35 horse to the ground, enough to get you there, not enough to hurry. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Great bike, by looking at dual sport bikes traveing year round on I-40. BMW GS1300 and KLR-650 are the most popular. I have had a couple DR650s and now a KLR650 since the GS1300 is out of my price range. I love this bike. It is great for moderate off road and has decent power for communting. The 45 MPG thing is great too. Basically, I want to use it to ride across grass here and there and to take it on old(er) roads like 40. Always wanted to drive all the way across 40. No family to speak of, 21 year old college kid who wants a cheaper fun ride for 'exploring'. Then this is the bike for you. it has the 6 gallon tank as stock. if you will be more on road than off you might want to get less agressive treads. after market stuff is readilly available for them. |
|
I keep thinking about snagging a KLR. If I could trade my Virago for one that's mechanically sound I'd do it in a heartbeat. If a Jeep can get there then a KLR will follow it without breaking a sweat (unless it's a really built jeep that's pushing it's limits).
|
|
|
Would love to have a diesel. Problem for me though is I have short legs.
|
|
Quoted:
Would love to have a diesel. Problem for me though is I have short legs. the diesel is STILL not available to civilians. they almost brought it to market, but the price tag was going to be about $18,000. a gas KLR is around $5,000. so, you can buy a lightly used gas KLR, trick it out with suspension upgrades, IMS tank, protection, luggage and take it on a heck of a ride before you even come close to the cost of the diesel bike. |
|
Quoted:
Would love to have a diesel. Problem for me though is I have short legs. This should never be a reason not to get one. You can buy a lowering link, which will lower the stock suspension, and drop the front fork tubes an inch in the clamps. The suspension travel is not that limited because of this procedure, and since the KLR has already been deemed not to be as trailworthy as it could be, then this setup is certainly very capable for class VI roads and such. Combine the suspension mods with a low seat from Corbin and you got a very comfortable and capable bike. ETA: Also, the notion of the diesel is good, but in reality they are neutered dogs. Top speed is poor, and the price is three times what it should be. The full justification for the diesel is the mileage range, and the logistical advantages of being able to run on jet fuel and diesel. |
|
I have an 2008 and have put over 18k miles on it in just over two years. They can run down the highway but not comfortable for long distances. They can go offroad but they aren't the greatest.
I would recommend nothing more serious than fire roads or jeep trails. Hardcore trails will wear you out fast. It is a big heavy beast that is a bitch to pick up. However they usually do well when they fall over. Oh, if you get a second generation model it is a damn good idea to get crash bars. |
|
Well, which year should I look for? and what should I look to pay and what should I look for the bike to have?
I'm looking for a beginner adventure bike I suppose. And yeah, fire roads, dirt roads, gravelly roads, grassy areas, and that's about it for what I'd take it through I'd imagine. I like the paint job on the one above I'd hope whatever I get would look like that if I paint it. hehe. |
|
From 1987 to 2007 the bikes are identical, no changes other than paint and graphics that I am aware of. It was a really strong seller for Kawasaki. The new version is supposed to be a better street bike, which I would welcome but to be honest I would look at a Versys given the difference in price. The Versys is a lot more motorcycle and would see about the same amount of dirt use if I owned it.
|
|
Quoted:
From 1987 to 2007 the bikes are identical, no changes other than paint and graphics that I am aware of. from the FAQ- http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html How has the KLR650 changed over the years?
No one will ever accuse Kawasaki of applying kaizen to the KLR production line. Aside from the paint job, not much has changed since it was introduced in 1987. The key mechanical differences are (per Eldon Carl): * 1987: Crankshaft is unique to this year. * 1988: Beefed up the engine cases with extra bolts between the crank and countershaft; crank has a different part number, and may be lighter. * 1990: Countershaft improved with longer splines for increased engagement with sprocket. * 1992: Changes to front brake master cylinder. * Mid-1996: Changed valve cover, added bracket to hold cam chain bumper; changed crank to heavier unit; improved clutch basket with more clutch plates; changed countershaft sprocket retainer from slotted plate to large nut; changed 2nd and 3rd gear ratios. Kickstarter no longer fits with new clutch basket. New left balancer weight/sprocket begins with engine #KLE650AE032206. * (?) Service manual indicates higher charging system output; only part number change is the rotor. The new power rating is 17A/14V (238 W) @ 7000 rpm; the earlier one was 14A/14V (196 W) @ 8000 rpm (yes, above redline). * 2001(?) Assembly shifts from Japan to Thailand. Hard to say if there are any quality issues, as the parts still seem to be manufactured in Japan. * 2007: New shift lever the '96 change has the thicker cylinder sleeve that you need for the 685 or 705 big bore kits (otherwise you need to find a late model cylinder to do the big bore upgrade). the higher output magneto/rotor is nice. other than that, the changes are very minor. |
|
Quoted:
Well, which year should I look for? and what should I look to pay and what should I look for the bike to have? depends on how much of a project you want. any used bike should have some basic maintenance done on it, change the brake fluid, perhaps stainless brake lines, change the fork oil and other misc stuff. the KLR is notorious for having NO lube in the rear suspension, so i'd suggest planning on tearing the back end apart on any KLR, and the doohickey has always been crap from the factory and should be upgraded. that takes a few special tools and a few hours. best if you drain the oil to do it. for those that don't know this is the adjuster for the counter balancer chain. broken ones tend to make the bike vibrate more, sometimes they just don't adjust or the spring breaks and floats around in the motor. the valves like to be on the LOOSE side of the spec, and most dealers never actually check them, even tho they say they do and charge for it as part of the service, some people have put tape or paint over the valve cover and found it intact after the claimed "service", you need shims to adjust the valves and a BMW motorcycle shop has the right size for the old "K" bikes and usually for far less than the Kawi dealers. i've seen several and purchased a few KLRs for under $1,000. they needed work, but it's all simple stuff that i probably would have done anyway... and there's parts from 20 years worth of bikes on ebay. but this price is the LOW end. you've gotta be lucky to find it and lucky again to be the first one to get there before someone else snatches it up. a nice bike will usually run between $2,000 and $3,000 and the much newer ones get closer to full price. expect bike prices to go UP in the spring when the weather is nice and down in the fall when someone's gotta winterize it and store it for another winter (if you live in an area where you have to do this) ideally, i'd want a '96 or later, but wouldn't rule out an older bike in good shape just because of the year. if you don't do the big bore kit it probably won't ever matter. you can change all the bodywork colors by either buying new plastic off ebay or just rattlecan the old stuff. i'd look for a bike that hasn't been hammered. look at the overall condition and see if stuff just looks like normal wear, or if it's been crashed and burned multiple times. it's common for tanks to get dented, seat upholstery to get faded and torn and grips to be worn. you can buy a new seat, or reupholster the original one. many people use carpet padding to re-foam the seat. if the front wheel is taken off and whoever puts it back on it't careful about getting the speedo drive aligned properly it can chew up the speedo drive notches in the hub. if that happens you're looking at either replacing the front wheel, which is spendy, or getting an aftermarket digital instrument set, which is much more affordable and very nice, but not what you want to find out your new ride needs. if you're wanting a KLR, i'd suggest heading over to KLR650.net and spending some time reading about common problems people have and that may give you an idea of what to look for when hunting for a bike. |
|
I see some mentions of suspension upgrades. What exactly does that mean? Would these make it more suitable for 'off road'?
I don't want a motorcycle so much, I want more of an adventure bike, if that makes any sense. Something that can take me to the roads legally, but also take me through the mud, rocks, sand, and such. I'm basically looking for something kind of like the military would use... So far KLR 650 looks to be good for a beginner bike, and I can upgrade it too. |
|
|
Another long term motorcycle rider here. Back in the 80s, there was alot of interest in street/trail bikes. I rode a yamaha and a couple buddies had hondas. We did lots of weekend trips which included 100-200 mile runs on the highways to get where we were going for offroad riding.
Whatever bike you get, make sure to budget money for a good riding suit and full face helmet. There are only two types of motorcycle riders in the world... those that have wrecked and those that are going to wreck! Bottom line is odds say it will eventually happen to all riders. Might take a month or might take 20 years but the odds say it WILL eventually happen. Mine was an old lady pulling right in front of me while I was running about 50mph. Broke my wrist, collarbone and serious knee injury. Knee still bothers me daily and a good riding suit could have probably prevented it. Thank goodness I at least had a good full face helmet or it would have probably killed me. Motorcycles are great fun but they are hard to see. The smaller dual purpose ones painted earthtone colors are especially hard to see. Spend money on stuff that will let you survive a crash and realize it could happen on any given day. Edited to add: my 4stroke yamaha XT got 60mpg which sure came in handy back in my college days. I rode it everywhere rain or shine! ps. those were some great pics of some great scenery someone posted! |
|
Great pics...a dual sport bike is on the wish list but in the meantime I'll just ride my '85 VMax.
|
|
I truly enjoy the snot out of my KLR. In spite of all the pictures I posted above, I don't take my camera along nearly enough while riding. My 07 KLR meets my riding style and terrain perfectly.
|
|
Glad I started this topic! Bunch of interesting pictures make me want one even more. Are there any things that people normally change when they get one of these?
|
|
Quoted:
I see some mentions of suspension upgrades. What exactly does that mean? Would these make it more suitable for 'off road'? I don't want a motorcycle so much, I want more of an adventure bike, if that makes any sense. Something that can take me to the roads legally, but also take me through the mud, rocks, sand, and such. I'm basically looking for something kind of like the military would use... So far KLR 650 looks to be good for a beginner bike, and I can upgrade it too. the KLE stock suspension is "factory tuned" for a roughly #150 rider. most northe american males who are tall enough to ride the KLR are usually at least #50 over that, and some are twice that weight. (by the time you add gear and everything) the .mil bikes use a aftermarket rear shock. it was designed by the company that does the diesel conversions, but now it seems to be produced by Noleen. http://shop.noleenj6.com/product.sc;jsessionid=E09CF8DE24414A5B2237FFECF0A137D8.qscstrfrnt04?categoryId=4&productId=22 it's common to upgrade the fork springs to stiffer springs from Progressive Suspension. Race Tech Gold Valves were popular for revalving the froks, but require the forks to be torn down and modified. Ricor's Intiminators revalve the forks, use a lighter weight oil than stock and don't require any mods to the forks. some people still use the aftermarket springs, but i found that they worked very well for me with the stock springs. i was able to hit curbs on my 650 at 40mph and the font end just soaked it up. that's a roughly 6" square bump. hit it with the stock suspension at that speed and you'll probably kill the front rim. on a modified KLR, it just soaks it up. Ricor now also makes a rear shock that uses the same valving. http://store.ricorshocks.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=42 and there's also the Moab rear shock from Cogent Dynamics. http://motocd.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=29&Itemid=45 so with the Ricor stuff, it's a "drop in" mod that takes a morning to do. longer if you've never torn apart the rear suspension to grease it. again, the factory doesn't put much, if any grease in the rear suspension. if you do any water crossings this can lead to ruse inside the frame and really make it a bitch to service things in the future. depending on how rusty or not thngs are, it usually takes a morning to tear the rear apart to clean, grease and reassemble the rear, but i've done a few. there are multiple threads on doing this at KRL650.net. not trying to drive you from here... but the details of fine tuning any particular vehicle are perhaps a bit beyond a "survival" forum and are probably best left on a forum or board for that particular vehicle. i suspect most people are skimming over this stuff by now, or their eyes are glazing over.. i wouldn't bother with the Progressive Suspension rear shock,. many reports of problems with them. Ricpr had a nice discount for KLR650.net members going for a while. don't know if that's still available or not. before the Ricor Intiminators were available, several people swapped better stock suspensions from MX bikes onto the KLR, usually that gave better brakes too, but required the front wheel from the donor too, plus a lot of work to get the stem modified. NOT a drop in/bolt on project. on any vehicle, better suspension means better control of the vehicle, better transfer of power to the ground, better controll when cornering, less front end dive when stopping hard and even better control on the street, not just on dirt. it ain't all about horsepower. |
|
Quoted:
Glad I started this topic! Bunch of interesting pictures make me want one even more. Are there any things that people normally change when they get one of these? if you don't upgrade the "doohickey" you're tempting fate. roughly one in four is either broken, has a broken spring or simply won't adjust. while rare, there are occasional critical failures where broken doohickey parts destroy the motor. this is reported about twice a year that i've seen. it may happen more often, but those don't seem to get reported. the stock "bash plate" is a joke, purely cosmetic plastic. there are aftermarket aluminum versions available. some radiator protection is nice, the stock foot pegs are slippery when wet. brakes can use some help from stainless lines. it's not a perfect bike, but if you get one for a reasonable price there should be some budget left over for upgrading or "farkling". some kind of luggage is popular. some go with a milk crate or action packer, some mount a pelican case or soft sided cooler, some buy purpose built motorcycle luggage. the "what mods" question for a motorcycle is much like asking the same question about an AR. it all depends on what you want to do with it and what your budget is. i'd focus on upgrading the protection for the bike, improving the tool kit and making it comfortable to ride. |
|
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.