Axes and Hatchets (Page 3 of 4)
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Originally Posted By MyName1sMud:
I just picked up a Trappers Companion by Ron LaClaire. I'm in love with it so far... Someone PM me if linking to it is forbidden please... I'm not at home so I can't post pictures of my own. http://shrewbows.com/trapperscompanion/ Very neat. I am a sucker for axes and hawks. |
Originally Posted By ar-jedi:
SO MUCH WIN IN ONE POST IT COULD CRASH ARFCOM !!!
SO MUCH WIN IN ONE POST IT COULD CRASH ARFCOM !!!
| What , no Zombie Tools . |
Yeah ....... Whatever
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Originally Posted By MyName1sMud:
I just picked up a Trappers Companion by Ron LaClaire. I'm in love with it so far... Someone PM me if linking to it is forbidden please... I'm not at home so I can't post pictures of my own. http://shrewbows.com/trapperscompanion/ I like that post some pics when you can |
"Without the right to own a weapon capable of overthrowing an unjust, un-Constitutional government, the rest of our rights truly are hollow and can be rescinded at any time"
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Probably a bit too late to point out that there is a difference between an axe, a hatchet, and a Tomahawk, which is a purpose-made fighting implement.
Other than the quality/properties of modern metals, the composition of the handles, and the exact method of carriage and scabbard for such, all these designs have been scienced-out, for the most part, by the late Middle Ages. There is nothing new about these things, except for metallurgy and handles. Even the optimal axe/hatchet edge grinds have been well-understood for a very long time, although few know how to maintain them. |
"The M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised." General George S. Patton Jr.,US Army
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Originally Posted By thederrick106:
I enjoy playing with cold steel hawks:  http://youtu.be/QAtQ7nzF8pk
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n52/thederrick106/Gear/PICT0715.jpg I also enjoy swinging or hacking with a variety of sharpened edges: http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n52/thederrick106/Gear/PICT0055_zpsc4cbe879.jpg Axe or hawk? Depends on the task at hand: http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n52/thederrick106/Gear/HawkampAxe_zpsebb7605d.png Just got my first one finished tonight now I need more lol 
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"Without the right to own a weapon capable of overthrowing an unjust, un-Constitutional government, the rest of our rights truly are hollow and can be rescinded at any time"
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Originally Posted By raf:
Probably a bit too late to point out that there is a difference between an axe, a hatchet, and a Tomahawk, which is a purpose-made fighting implement. Other than the quality/properties of modern metals, the composition of the handles, and the exact method of carriage and scabbard for such, all these designs have been scienced-out, for the most part, by the late Middle Ages. There is nothing new about these things, except for metallurgy and handles. Even the optimal axe/hatchet edge grinds have been well-understood for a very long time, although few know how to maintain them. I have been trying to learn myself and help build understanding in those around me about the geometry of cutting edges and how to optimize them for the task. I have been doing extremely well with convex edges on axes and hatchets with various base angles. A properly sharpened axe is an amazing thing. Mind blowing. Our forefathers were not stupid and not everything they did by hand was brutal labor. |
The only moral law is one that protects individual liberty.
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Originally Posted By EdB:
I just picked up the Estwing camper's axe for $38 at home depot. Used it this weekend on a camping trip - very sharp out of the "box" It is well balanced and felt very "handy" if you will - worked great Yep, my long handle lightweight unbreakable Estwing lives in my PU! $30+ at LOWES. A great compromise between too small hatchets and too heavy lumberjack axe's. |
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Originally Posted By AMU62:
If you are wanting to go ultra-light, a Gerber folding saw with two blades is the ticket to happiness. But if you can pack more weight an ESTWING 26" campers axe (or similar lightweight axe) is more all-around useful. I've got both. Yep, I've got both. I use the saw for backpack hunting/camping and the lightweight axe for PU camping. |
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Originally Posted By raf:
Probably a bit too late to point out that there is a difference between an axe, a hatchet, and a Tomahawk, which is a purpose-made fighting implement. Other than the quality/properties of modern metals, the composition of the handles, and the exact method of carriage and scabbard for such, all these designs have been scienced-out, for the most part, by the late Middle Ages. There is nothing new about these things, except for metallurgy and handles. Even the optimal axe/hatchet edge grinds have been well-understood for a very long time, although few know how to maintain them. Benedict Arnold led an expedition through Maine to capture Quebec for the American Revolution in 1775. Here are some of the axes and ratchets (belt axes) found in sites they occupied: http://www.arnoldsmarch.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/pollingaxe-300x164.jpg http://www.arnoldsmarch.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/artifacts-300x194.jpg You could get a decent repro made of any if those and have an ax that performed superlative duty today. Only difference being the handle evolution between the 1700's and 1800's. |
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Had a little fun with some tomahawks this weekend....not entirely germaine to the thread....Boy Scout Klondike Derby, tomahawk station. Playing card is five points! the round hole in the target is from a hawk striking handle butt first! Broke the handle, which had been nicked by another hawk earlier........  Home made handle- we lose one or two handles every time we do this. they are thrown literally hundreds of times on the weekend and inevitably we get blades striking handles.....   I have three Cold Steel I think they are Norse Hawks, one Frontier Hawk, a hand forged one from India and one I got from Dixie Gunworks 25 years ago......It would help if they were all the same but, you know.....  |
<--- A right-wing sleeper cell of One.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCoF5sgoszafJgnbq2RnRLxg
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCoF5sgoszafJgnbq2RnRLxg
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I have been wanting to "tighten up" some of the axe and maul heads on some of my pioneer tools. They are not dangerously loose but just wanting to fix before becoming any worse.
Would soaking the heads in boiled linseed oil correct this or is that a whole nother story? I have searched other sources, but haven't found a sure fire fix short of complete re handling. Any responses would be appreciated. |
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Originally Posted By rvnvet:
I have been wanting to "tighten up" some of the axe and maul heads on some of my pioneer tools. They are not dangerously loose but just wanting to fix before becoming any worse. Would soaking the heads in boiled linseed oil correct this or is that a whole nother story? I have searched other sources, but haven't found a sure fire fix short of complete re handling. Any responses would be appreciated. How loose are you considering loose? Pics? -Yes my first step would be to soak it in BLO, for days. -If you don't care about appearance you could always add a tiny metal wedge. 
I wouldn't go to crazy, maybe do a double like this: 
-Otherwise re handle: 
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Originally Posted By ar-jedi:
SO MUCH WIN IN ONE POST IT COULD CRASH ARFCOM !!!
SO MUCH WIN IN ONE POST IT COULD CRASH ARFCOM !!!
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Originally Posted By thederrick106:
How loose are you considering loose? Pics? -Yes my first step would be to soak it in BLO, for days. -If you don't care about appearance you could always add a tiny metal wedge. http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0301/1705/products/steel-wedges-25-metal-wedges-for-hammers-axes-1-x-1-x-1-8-1_medium.JPG?v=1450183339 I wouldn't go to crazy, maybe do a double like this: http://northernwoodlands.org/images/articles/July_06055.jpg -Otherwise re handle: http://youtu.be/NE6l2md9CDA
Originally Posted By thederrick106:
Originally Posted By rvnvet:
I have been wanting to "tighten up" some of the axe and maul heads on some of my pioneer tools. They are not dangerously loose but just wanting to fix before becoming any worse. Would soaking the heads in boiled linseed oil correct this or is that a whole nother story? I have searched other sources, but haven't found a sure fire fix short of complete re handling. Any responses would be appreciated. How loose are you considering loose? Pics? -Yes my first step would be to soak it in BLO, for days. -If you don't care about appearance you could always add a tiny metal wedge. http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0301/1705/products/steel-wedges-25-metal-wedges-for-hammers-axes-1-x-1-x-1-8-1_medium.JPG?v=1450183339 I wouldn't go to crazy, maybe do a double like this: http://northernwoodlands.org/images/articles/July_06055.jpg -Otherwise re handle: http://youtu.be/NE6l2md9CDA
Your response is pretty much what I thought. I think I will go with the BLO first. The wooden wedges seem to be still doing their job, it's just like the "business end" has shrunk some due to poor maintence by the previous owner. Thanks for your reply anyway. |
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Originally Posted By ScubaTexas:
Can anyone help ID this hatchet. It is very had to see, but their is a B or an 8 on the side of the head. <a href="http://s679.photobucket.com/user/texas45/media/1014160938_zpsffa3xags.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/texas45/1014160938_zpsffa3xags.jpg</a> <a href="http://s679.photobucket.com/user/texas45/media/1014160938a_zpsko2dp4rt.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/texas45/1014160938a_zpsko2dp4rt.jpg</a> I would probably need some better close up photos to do much more then this educated guess: Possibly a plumb Boy Scouts of America hatchet... Maybe something from 1940~? http://www.collect-sell.com/product/1940s-boy-scouts-of-america-bsa-plumb-hatchet-axe-and-sheath-09-0004/ http://bushcraftusa.com/forum/threads/boy-scout-axe-from-1940.160812/ 
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Originally Posted By ar-jedi:
SO MUCH WIN IN ONE POST IT COULD CRASH ARFCOM !!!
SO MUCH WIN IN ONE POST IT COULD CRASH ARFCOM !!!
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Originally Posted By thederrick106:
I would probably need some better close up photos to do much more then this educated guess: Possibly a plumb Boy Scouts of America hatchet... Maybe something from 1940~? http://www.collect-sell.com/product/1940s-boy-scouts-of-america-bsa-plumb-hatchet-axe-and-sheath-09-0004/ http://bushcraftusa.com/forum/threads/boy-scout-axe-from-1940.160812/ Originally Posted By thederrick106:
Originally Posted By ScubaTexas:
Can anyone help ID this hatchet. It is very had to see, but their is a B or an 8 on the side of the head. <a href="http://s679.photobucket.com/user/texas45/media/1014160938_zpsffa3xags.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/texas45/1014160938_zpsffa3xags.jpg</a> <a href="http://s679.photobucket.com/user/texas45/media/1014160938a_zpsko2dp4rt.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/texas45/1014160938a_zpsko2dp4rt.jpg</a> I would probably need some better close up photos to do much more then this educated guess: Possibly a plumb Boy Scouts of America hatchet... Maybe something from 1940~? http://www.collect-sell.com/product/1940s-boy-scouts-of-america-bsa-plumb-hatchet-axe-and-sheath-09-0004/ http://bushcraftusa.com/forum/threads/boy-scout-axe-from-1940.160812/ It's not Plumb. It's a cast steel Chinese copy of a BSA hatchet. The texture gives it away. The Plumb is forged. Mine was so brittle the edge would chip if it was at all sharp. I suggest people stay away from these. |
The only moral law is one that protects individual liberty.
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Originally Posted By batmanacw:
It's not Plumb. It's a cast steel Chinese copy of a BSA hatchet. The texture gives it away. The Plumb is forged. Mine was so brittle the edge would chip if it was at all sharp. I suggest people stay away from these. Originally Posted By batmanacw:
Originally Posted By thederrick106:
Originally Posted By ScubaTexas:
Can anyone help ID this hatchet. It is very had to see, but their is a B or an 8 on the side of the head. <a href="http://s679.photobucket.com/user/texas45/media/1014160938_zpsffa3xags.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/texas45/1014160938_zpsffa3xags.jpg</a> <a href="http://s679.photobucket.com/user/texas45/media/1014160938a_zpsko2dp4rt.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/texas45/1014160938a_zpsko2dp4rt.jpg</a> I would probably need some better close up photos to do much more then this educated guess: Possibly a plumb Boy Scouts of America hatchet... Maybe something from 1940~? http://www.collect-sell.com/product/1940s-boy-scouts-of-america-bsa-plumb-hatchet-axe-and-sheath-09-0004/ http://bushcraftusa.com/forum/threads/boy-scout-axe-from-1940.160812/ It's not Plumb. It's a cast steel Chinese copy of a BSA hatchet. The texture gives it away. The Plumb is forged. Mine was so brittle the edge would chip if it was at all sharp. I suggest people stay away from these. Thanks, I only paid $2, so it was worth a shot. |
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Originally Posted By Junglas:
I like Council axes, made in the USA. I have the Hudson Bay pattern and I might get the Boys Axe next. Attached File |
Originally Posted By ar-jedi:
SO MUCH WIN IN ONE POST IT COULD CRASH ARFCOM !!!
SO MUCH WIN IN ONE POST IT COULD CRASH ARFCOM !!!
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I've got a fiskars axe, nothing special but light and comfortable. My hatchet is an Italian made Prandi. I refinished the handle and really like it. Don't have any high end hatchets to compare it with, it runs about $30-40. https://www.a-prandi.it/en/shop/3-043-t-hatchet-yankee.html |
 ESEE Knives Favorite Gear: Axes and Saws |
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A couple of old Plumb heads I refurbished. Both were quite rusty with significant mushrooming on the poll. They also were hung on the old handles upside-down with screws and nails driven in and bent over holding them on. The longer one is on a 35" handle and has a larger rounded logo. The shorter is on a 28" handle and has a smaller squared-off logo. If anyone has info on dating them, it would be appreciated.Attached File |
What doesn't kill you WILL try harder next time.
'07 FXDC, '11 KLR, '18 V1K.
'07 FXDC, '11 KLR, '18 V1K.
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Close up of the short one.Attached File |
What doesn't kill you WILL try harder next time.
'07 FXDC, '11 KLR, '18 V1K.
'07 FXDC, '11 KLR, '18 V1K.
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OP will get as many different answers as the number of posters. OP, Do your research. Buy the best you can afford--after long research. Learn how to properly replace the handle. Buy some spare handles--you will need them, eventually. Learn how to properly, initially, configure the blade of your implement, and how to sharpen it in the field. Have the right field sharpening tools. Pay close attention to the quality of the scabbard. Some leather scabbards promote rust, and need to be treated with GOOD leather treatment. Pecards is a good item, and there are other good items. NO Neetsfoot oil, which is destructive to leather! Figure out how to mount your axe outside the pack, since you will immediately need it to construct shelter; No sense opening-up the pack to search for your axe. Learn how to tie shelter-type knots with appropriate cordage. Have the appropriate cordage instantly available, outside the pack. Do all this, and you will be miles ahead of other folks. |
Promoted to Member by Ed, Sr.
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Quick fix for very slightly loose handles which show no signs of abuse, such as nails or screws inserted, or wedge deteriorated/missing. In that case, just replace the handle, and start over. BUT, if decent handle is just a "little" loose, and otherwise OK, just soak the axe head/handle in pure automotive antifreeze. !00% engine antifreeze. Give it a week, to be sure. The glycol "antifreeze" will eventually penetrate the wood, and allow it to swell a little. Water will evaporate from the wood, and the head of the axe will come loose again the glycol will stay in the wood a lot longer, and won't harm the wood. This is a very old trick. |
Promoted to Member by Ed, Sr.
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Originally Posted By Arcwn: A couple of old Plumb heads I refurbished. Both were quite rusty with significant mushrooming on the poll. They also were hung on the old handles upside-down with screws and nails driven in and bent over holding them on. The longer one is on a 35" handle and has a larger rounded logo. The shorter is on a 28" handle and has a smaller squared-off logo. If anyone has info on dating them, it would be appreciated.https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/254821/20210212_112959_jpg-1839601.JPG I have no info on dating them, but damn, you did an awesome refurbishment. I like when people leave the kerf proud above the eye and take the time to chamfer it. |
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Originally Posted By Vap0rWav3r: I have no info on dating them, but damn, you did an awesome refurbishment. I like when people leave the kerf proud above the eye and take the time to chamfer it. Thanks, They sure cut cut well too. Tested them out on a 6" dead oak. I was worried whomever had them before had taken the temper out by sharpening on a bench grinder. Now I'm looking for a boys axe size head to add. If anyone needs handles, House Handle is where I got the 28" curved handle. |
What doesn't kill you WILL try harder next time.
'07 FXDC, '11 KLR, '18 V1K.
'07 FXDC, '11 KLR, '18 V1K.
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Originally Posted By Arcwn: Thanks, They sure cut cut well too. Tested them out on a 6" dead oak. I was worried whomever had them before had taken the temper out by sharpening on a bench grinder. Now I'm looking for a boys axe size head to add. If anyone needs handles, House Handle is where I got the 28" curved handle. I think there is enough mass in the axe head to dissipate heat that they would have had to realllllly grind the hell out of it to ruin the temper. I'm going to use a bench sander to thin the cheeks on some heads I grabbed but I'm going to be dunking them regularly in water just as a precaution. eBay is mighty picked over at the moment with axe heads, they're all either super collectible high $$$ heads or garbage that people want way too much for. |
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I'm hopeing so as well with Beaver Tooth. I'm working on another axe. This time a boys axe size head and House Handle did not have the length and eye size I wanted. Beaver Tooth did. Fingers crossed. |
What doesn't kill you WILL try harder next time.
'07 FXDC, '11 KLR, '18 V1K.
'07 FXDC, '11 KLR, '18 V1K.
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Originally Posted By Arcwn: I'm hopeing so as well with Beaver Tooth. I'm working on another axe. This time a boys axe size head and House Handle did not have the length and eye size I wanted. Beaver Tooth did. Fingers crossed.  You get anything from Beaver-Tooth yet? @Arcwn |
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Very nice I've heard good things about Hultafors, is that Marpat Woodland underneath or something else? I'm not seeing the FDE color in it.
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Ahh gotcha, I really like the colors in that, it looks much better with more greenish hues. 
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Finished with the 2 1/4 lb head on a 21" Beavertooth handle. Should make a nice camp axe. Attached File |
What doesn't kill you WILL try harder next time.
'07 FXDC, '11 KLR, '18 V1K.
'07 FXDC, '11 KLR, '18 V1K.