Posted: 11/30/2008 5:04:11 PM EDT
Im tired of looking at that nice orange Ecomm box of yours . I decided to build my own  , I ordered a spud 709 tonight (same as yours but camo) Darn you . Im going with a 2800 or a 1802 /857 combo though . Im leaning to the 1802 because its only 0.1 of a inch diff from the 8800 so I could switch it out with out a bracket change. The 2800 is a good box though, I have several and even bought some for the baptist disaster teams .
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Im drawing out my wiring right now. see also http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=10&f=22&t=614371 ar-jedi |
| Welp Made the panel and got the holes for the switches and volt gauge done . Now Im waiting on the 2 set power pole panel and the 4 set to get in so I can cut the holes for them.Slowly coming together. After the first of the year going to order the batteries ,power supply and power gate. |
Ok dont laugh to hard at my stool seat cover . and yes my work area needs a good cleaning but I have about 7 projects going on right now so theres no real need till I thin them out.
I just set the face in there so it isnt strait but will give you a idea. The mic connectors represent UHF connectors , I need to find a good place to buy the IEC 320 plug , I just laid the cheap one I had up there to represent it. The Power polls above it are for DC in . The far set is DC out. Im keeping all the Ins on one side and the outs on the other. SO Far. 
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Thanks yall
If you notice the wire coming from the lid it is from a set of red LEDs . Im going to make latching stands for the lid to hold it open and the leds will light up the area enuff to do my writing , or reading . The Leds I got for 6 bucks for a unit with 6 red leds on a stickem mount at advance auto in the pimp my car section. Works nicly. ETA : Oh no , Im about to lose all my Ham radio gear in a tragic boating accident .
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some more ideas: http://www.napasars.org/news/Mar08/boxradios.htm http://www.eham.net/articles/15715 (see also http://www.n1ib.com/page39.html) http://home.comcast.net/~buck0/combox.htm http://home.comcast.net/~buck0/How_to_build_HVOB.pdf ^^^ i think the mounting arrangement in the PDF link above (see picture on page 3) is quite clever –– it is simple to make, and allows for easy access to all connections etc even after the box is together. ar-jedi |
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found one more: http://www.geocities.com/kemays/hambox.htm ar-jedi |
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Well got the gauge in tonight which I found I need to add one more small switch for the gauge dim or bright . I could wire it up to work with the over red LED reading/writing lights but that would mean I would had to turn on and off the leds ever time I cut the gauge on because it would put it in programing mode. I have the gauge wired were I can check the source volts or internal battery voltage .That way if Im running off of external dc but have AC running the PS charging the batt through a Power gate I can check their status .
I also got some of the wiring started and figured out what Im going to do about the radio brackets to keep it modular . I would have took pics but I have already loaded it up in my truck for a club meeting tomorrow . |
Ok here are some pics of the lights .  I need to work on my door props next so NM the scrap holding the door up. I have my radio mounting frame removed right now also.
Normal viewing angle . The lights work great , they provide more then enough light for the work area. 
A shot of the light mounts 
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Finished bottom plate and got the batteries strapped in. You can really see where I really stole was Inspired by AR-Jedi's .
BTW I have no router I just use the skill saw , cantcha tell . 
I Have some foam Im going to strap in on each side of the batteries to tighten them up. 
NM the wire going to the LEDs Im going to clean that up when I put the radio frame in there. 
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Maybe I missed it, but what type of batteries are you using? click: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c241/Hawk_308/Picture004-2.jpg those are 12V, 12AH sealed gel electrolyte batteries. connected in parallel, 24AH of capacity. you can get them individually or in a pair, the latter commonly called an "RBC-6" battery pack. this is the designation given by UPS vendor APC. to wit: http://apcmedia.apcc.com/resource/images/500/Front_Left/RBC6fl.jpg see also http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=RBC6&btnG=Google+Search and http://shop.ebay.com/items/RBC6 specifically see http://www.gruberpower.com/gruberpower/advertising/Batteries/Allbatteries/ and http://www.gruberpower.com/gruberpower/advertising/batteries/cutsheets/UPS-58-GPS-12-12f2.asp see a typical 12V 12AH battery datasheet here: http://www.bb-battery.com/productpages/BP/BP12-12.pdf also read this: http://www.w4ava.org/races/BatteryFactSheetRev23Jul021.pdf ar-jedi |
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I done forgot all about this thread , I was using it tonight just to knock the dust off and thought about it , my cam batts died before I thought to get some diff shots.
ETA: Notes the voltage gauge can be switched to internal batt or external DC source which is the DC in plug , it also can be dimed or cut off to conserve juice. 2 sets of power poles for DC in are wired to a switch allowing Charge or direct mode . Right now I do not have a pwr gate so Both are temporally wired though one 3 way switch and the second switch is for the radios batt or DC in . Once the power gate is installed Im going to have each set indiv controlled . Which will allow alot more flexibly. I cant decide how I want to do the door supports , I have several Ideas but cant pick one yet. so right now Im using a scrap piece of alum 
My photo fu is weak so when I turn off my flash it always gets blurry , this gives you an idea of the LED red lighting a little brighter then it really is. 
Diff setting on the camera not as blurry but alot darker then it really is . 
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I cant decide how I want to do the door supports , I have several Ideas but cant pick one yet. so right now Im using a scrap piece of alum that piece of aluminum flat is making your setup look way too ghetto. 
so my initial thought is to inform you that the hinge top separates from the box proper in about 8.7 seconds. for example, when i had my gear in a wire rack, i just propped up the removed top behind the box: http://losdos.dyndns.org:8080/public/ham/races-box/construction/dscn2146_sm.jpg btw, that box top is hella-handy to store crap in: http://losdos.dyndns.org:8080/public/ham/qrp/DSCN3016_sm.jpg http://losdos.dyndns.org:8080/public/ham/qrp/DSCN3014_sm.jpg my next thought it to get you to a hardware store or cabinet shop, where you can buy a very small version of the type of pressurized support arm that holds the hood or trunk of your vehicle open. attach it in minutes via one screw at each end, and thereafter the box top will stay in place at whatever angle you leave it at. ar-jedi |
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Havnt thought about door cyl . Thanks , I was thinking about using that alum to make a notched door prop but couldnt decide on internal or external .
I have a PP set on the wiring for the lights so I can still remove the top. I have alot of connectors for DC wiring in the top storage pocket . I have all my coax adapters plus PP ends along with a butane soldering iron in the tackle tray in the box. BTW Im the king of Ghetto 
Proof I pulled this trailer across 3 states to a jeeping event . It was 9 foot wide , unlic , bent frame and 3 dry rotted mobile home tires . Luckly for me one didnt hit the road much because of the bent frame. 
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Wow... very nice setup... Now it has almost got me rethinking about the case I want to get... Damn... too many choices to choose from... and seeing this thread isn't making it any easier. You've got a nice setup there. I like the idea of the red LEDs on the cover. |
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The links and the information in this thread are awesome. I appreciate all the work the contributors have put into their boxes, and their sharing of those efforts with those of us just getting started.
Thank you all. I've been taking copious notes and bookmarking several links. |
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Maybe I missed it, but what type of batteries are you using? click: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c241/Hawk_308/Picture004-2.jpg those are 12V, 12AH sealed gel electrolyte batteries. connected in parallel, 24AH of capacity. you can get them individually or in a pair, the latter commonly called an "RBC-6" battery pack. this is the designation given by UPS vendor APC. to wit: http://apcmedia.apcc.com/resource/images/500/Front_Left/RBC6fl.jpg see also http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=RBC6&btnG=Google+Search and http://shop.ebay.com/items/RBC6 specifically see http://www.gruberpower.com/gruberpower/advertising/Batteries/Allbatteries/ and http://www.gruberpower.com/gruberpower/advertising/batteries/cutsheets/UPS-58-GPS-12-12f2.asp see a typical 12V 12AH battery datasheet here: http://www.bb-battery.com/productpages/BP/BP12-12.pdf also read this: http://www.w4ava.org/races/BatteryFactSheetRev23Jul021.pdf ar-jedi jedi... real world, actual usage, how many hours do you get from the 24 AH battery set? And thanks for the links. |
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Maybe I missed it, but what type of batteries are you using? click: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c241/Hawk_308/Picture004-2.jpg those are 12V, 12AH sealed gel electrolyte batteries. connected in parallel, 24AH of capacity. you can get them individually or in a pair, the latter commonly called an "RBC-6" battery pack. this is the designation given by UPS vendor APC. (trimmed0 ar-jedi Thanks, ar-jedi... I've been paying attention. Here's mine: 
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I cant decide how I want to do the door supports , I have several Ideas but cant pick one yet. so right now Im using a scrap piece of alum http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c241/Hawk_308/Picture031.jpg This isn't a fancy piston support; but, it looks like it would work. Lid stay The price is not bad either. I haven't been able to find a small piston support. I'm building a box, too. I've been trying to figure out how I am going to support the lid on mine. I'm thinking these lid stays may be the way I'm going to go. I hope this helps others that are working on their boxes. |
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Quoted: Might want to try this one. It is not hydraulic but friction control with a locked open position. Small and compact enough. http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=40597&cat=3,41419,43745&ap=1Quoted: I cant decide how I want to do the door supports , I have several Ideas but cant pick one yet. so right now Im using a scrap piece of alum http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c241/Hawk_308/Picture031.jpg This isn't a fancy piston support; but, it looks like it would work. Lid stay The price is not bad either. I haven't been able to find a small piston support. I'm building a box, too. I've been trying to figure out how I am going to support the lid on mine. I'm thinking these lid stays may be the way I'm going to go. I hope this helps others that are working on their boxes.  
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Report on the RBC-6 batteries. I got mine from Gruber Power Services, as per the link from ar-jedi and my previous posts on this thread.
Ran them at Field Day today with the Icom IC-718. I bought out the 718, my base station's Yaesu FT-2800M (I have another in my truck, too), and my Yaesu FT-897. We have some new hams in the club and I thought these would good for them, or prospective hams, to look at, radios they'd be likely to consider as new hams. I had the 718 operating through my "Homebrew Buddipole on Steroids". All of the club contacts were made through my KISS station. It seems they were having trouble with the Ten-Tec and other radios hooked up to a (shall remain nameless) folded loop all band antenna. They could hear but not get a signal out. The whole time, with all the activity on my 718, steadily logging contacts, the batteries held up fine. The others were running off the club generator (a 5000 watt Troy Bilt), but I ran off the batteries the whole time. (ETA - several of the club members emailed me, asking for details on the batteries.) We started at the designated time, and shut down about sunset. I had my digital voltmeter hooked up to it the whole time. At the beginning battery voltage started out 12.88 v. Mid afternon it was 12.8 v, dipping to 12.6 v during transmit. By the time we quit for the day battery voltage was 12.7 v. That's good enough for me. I was going to order a second pair, put all four in parallel. I don't really think I need any more than the 24 AH I have now.
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Ok got some parts in but only had 30 minutes to work on it tonight. Got the DC out mounted and the RF connectors . http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c241/Hawk_308/Picture050.jpg I may have missed it. Where did you get the gauge shown here? |