Posted: 4/14/2015 12:28:00 AM EDT
| So I took the next leap into the rabbit hole and bought a Signalink USB. Anyone have a dummies guide to digital mode they can point me to? I hate being a nube at stuff. |
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Randy K7AGE vids on da-tube is what got me started in the digi modes. DigiPan hasn't been updated for a long while and is somewhat obsolete. Still works for PSK31 though. However there is other software that will do a lot of modes. I'm using DM780 from the HRD suite. For modes the big ones are RTTY and PSK31. Olivia is used on the Arfcom nets.
I use JT65 a bunch but that is a bit more advanced. Suggest getting up to speed with PSK31 and dive into 20m. Not at all difficult to work all 50 states and several DX just on that mode and band alone. Any questions just give us a shout. |
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I don't have a guide, but if you have any problems, just post on here and I am sure someone can help you out.
In addition, whenever I want to learn about something new, early on I search YouTube. There are a lot of FLDIGI videos there. But before that, I guess you probably should search YouTube for information on the Signalink USB Interface. The one thing I will tell you is to download, and learn to use, FLDIGI. The more you use it, but better you will realize that it is. |
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Some notable differences between the modes -
JT65, or even better, JT9 are QSO modes, but have standard messages invoked with the click of a button. There is no real back-n-forth of chit-chat. (It's possible to send short typed messages, but is not often used). WSPR is a non-QSO 1 or 2-way mode more akin to beacons with automated web-based reporting and data base -------> WSPR Info and Software .... WSPR Database, Map, Chat I'm not much on yak-yak, so the above, especially WSPR are my favorite modes. Most or all of the other modes use semi-standardized Macros for QSO basics (sig report, QTH, etc...), and are also often used for typing back and forth at each other in some sorta friendly manner :) As others have said above, FLDigi and other apps others are good for this. |
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I really enjoy the signalink! lots of good info on YouTube as has been mentioned.
I am using HRD the free version is still out there. My old computer died and it has taken me a month to get everything running smoothly again. Just have patience. You definitely have to massage the program a little. But the multi-mode programs are worth it! With the solar cycle in decline the digital side makes hamming more fun. What radio?? |
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Its an FT-817. I bought it from another ham, I don't think it has any filters installed.
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Its an FT-817. I bought it from another ham, I don't think it has any filters installed. Quoted:
Its an FT-817. I bought it from another ham, I don't think it has any filters installed. Yep, you can get the collins filters and then use the clarifier button to shift the filtered portion of the passband up or down using the select knob. I need to do a video on this. I wish my IC-7200 would allow this when using the IF filters. But even with the 300Hz filter, you can still have multiple signals in your passband and a big one will kill your low level QSO. RTTY 45 will fit in the 300Hz filter, as will JT65...but wider modes won't. ONLY the filters do IF, so without them big signals are a serious threat to your digital fun. |
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I just made my first contact! He's on the other side of town from me, probably 5 miles or so but hey, you've got to start someplace! Congratulations! My first digi was on psk31 also and then I moved to paint drying (JT65). I now have 38 states and nearly 20 countries (plus some I need confirmations from) in less than 4 weeks! |
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A narrow filter is fine for CW. You do not want a very narrow (300-500 hz) filter for digital, or you won't be able to see the whole band section you need to see to find the stations. I just turn the filter on and off...works great and lets me only hear what I am working. Personally I think the 300Hz is the better choice, even though it rules out some of the wider modes. |
Just a casual observation here, but the vast majority of folks I know use a Signalink USB for digital modes. I've wondered what the draw is to having an external sound card to run everything? Why not just use something like the Rigblaster Plug & Play and use the sound card in your computer? Most people have relatively modern computers with very good built in sound cards. I can see how when digital modes were new, the computers of that era might not have had a sound card, or a very poor one, but such is not the case now. Maybe someone can enlighten me 
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Just a casual observation here, but the vast majority of folks I know use a Signalink USB for digital modes. I've wondered what the draw is to having an external sound card to run everything? Why not just use something like the Rigblaster Plug & Play and use the sound card in your computer? Most people have relatively modern computers with very good built in sound cards. I can see how when digital modes were new, the computers of that era might not have had a sound card, or a very poor one, but such is not the case now. Maybe someone can enlighten me I use Easy-Digi boards for my digital interfaces to my 857Ds and use the soundcards in my laptops to send/receive audio. I then use a cheap interface cable ($20) as the PTT via hamlib. The easy-digi is actually set up with PTT capability, but the CAT cable is more elegant and gives me freq control and feedback which is nice. The signal-links are popular because they are plug-and-play and require no building or funky wiring to figure out. You can get them with cables specific to your radio. I get that...it's more important to get on the air than to make something to get on the air. I'm just cheap, and thing the adapters are fun to fab up. |
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I just turn the filter on and off...works great and lets me only hear what I am working. Personally I think the 300Hz is the better choice, even though it rules out some of the wider modes. Quoted:
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A narrow filter is fine for CW. You do not want a very narrow (300-500 hz) filter for digital, or you won't be able to see the whole band section you need to see to find the stations. I just turn the filter on and off...works great and lets me only hear what I am working. Personally I think the 300Hz is the better choice, even though it rules out some of the wider modes. I narrow the filters on my KX3 to exclude louder stations to dig out fainter stations. Normal wide waterfall. 
Narrowing it down. 
Even more. 
Down to a single PSK31 QSO. 
Widening it back up to hunt for more. 
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Well, that is certainly one solution. But for that matter, a lot of modern rigs have their own "sound card" and you simply plug the radio into the computer with USB and have no external devices. And that solution allows for even more fun. On my IC-7200 I can disconnect the feed for audio in/out for the USB soundcard in the radio and feed the streams to different programs. So for instance I can send the audio in from the radio to CWskimmer running in wine and have the audio in on the radio fed from fldigi for sending high-speed CW. This lets me play in the contests where operators ignore folks with slow speed sending/receiving skills like I have. CWskimmer is awesome for contest decodes! fldigi is all but useless for this. |
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I narrow the filters on my KX3 to exclude louder stations to dig out fainter stations. Quoted:
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A narrow filter is fine for CW. You do not want a very narrow (300-500 hz) filter for digital, or you won't be able to see the whole band section you need to see to find the stations. I just turn the filter on and off...works great and lets me only hear what I am working. Personally I think the 300Hz is the better choice, even though it rules out some of the wider modes. I narrow the filters on my KX3 to exclude louder stations to dig out fainter stations. Yes, on an IF equipped radio this is the best use of that feature. The OP has a 817, best he can do is get a filter and turn it on and off to filter out unwanted powerful stations blowing up his agc. Pricey, but the first time you lose your rare Asian or African JT65 contact to some bonehead running too much power you will wish you had spent the $180! AMHIK! Well, not that pricey it seems! 300Hz filter here for $114 |