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Originally Posted By zlman:
Originally Posted By Surf:
Solution: http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff124/flytosail/IMGP9114.jpg This set-up is cool and all but I pitty you when its time to refuel that tank. You've got to fill the 5 gal cans and then transfer them into this main tank. I"ll just store in the 5 gal cans and cut the middle step out. Non-event. I was going to make a gauge, but you can easily check how full it is by knocking on the side of the tank. Next time I go to the gas station, I fill two 5 gallon cans and pour them in using a step stool. I plan on making a shelf on the side to place the can on while using a Super Siphon. For the ease of filling things, and having to lift and pour every few months it it well worth it. |
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SCHADENFREUDE - Hearing of the misfortune of an Obama voter related how any aspect of their life sucks because of Obama.
The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing. - Edmund Burke |
Does anyone know of any caps that will fit the cheap CARB compliant plastic cans? I ended up getting one of these stinkers "for free" when I bought a used flammable storage locker. Since I couldn't figure out the cap, I used some channel locks to try to open it (not the brightest thing I've done). It turns out it must have been open since it shattered w/ a 1/2 dozen parts flying out. It turns out there is a large spring in these. In any case, I still wouldn't mind using the cheap can if I could find a new cap. It seems to be about 2 inches and reminds me of gas cap threads. Has anyone used a conventional gas cap on these? Is there some other cap available? Love the super siphon for all gas transfer; so, no need for spouts.
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Its a spout but it will give you the option of using the can to pour if you want. I've got a few and they work.
click me for goodness |
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Semper Fi
Opinions are like assholes, everyone has one, and everybody thinks everyone else's stinks. "Be wary of the man with only one rifle, he'll surely know how to use it" |
Originally Posted By AL25:
Originally Posted By TheRealSundance:
Originally Posted By Scout_19Delta:
First and foremost, thanks to all in this thread. I've picked up a lot of very useful information. Which in turn, my pocketbook has had to pay for (pun intended). With that said I went on a little Scepter shopping spree. And done so with no regrets. Four for fuel and four for water. Even made a couple back up nozzels. Thanks again! http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/pp209/Scout_19D/gascan1.jpg What did you make the backup nozzles out of? I'd also like to know what parts you used to make the nozzles. Sorry. It's been awhile since I've been on here. I used a 2" outside thread to a 1"inside thread or a 2x1. Then a 1" outside threaded end to a 1" hose end. I picked these items up at my local plumbing supply store. Home Depot didn't carry it. I did pick up the 1' hose from Home Depot. The hose fits really tight and didn't need and additional means of securing. In all its only three items. |
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I normally do the metal jerry cans but my local surplus store has the MFC's for $50 each plus tax. Is that a good deal?
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When there's no more room in hell, the dead will walk the earth.
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Originally Posted By ZombieKiller25:
I normally do the metal jerry cans but my local surplus store has the MFC's for $50 each plus tax. Is that a good deal? Give me a web address please............. |
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Semper Fi
Opinions are like assholes, everyone has one, and everybody thinks everyone else's stinks. "Be wary of the man with only one rifle, he'll surely know how to use it" |
Originally Posted By zlman:
Originally Posted By ZombieKiller25:
I normally do the metal jerry cans but my local surplus store has the MFC's for $50 each plus tax. Is that a good deal? Give me a web address please............. lol I take it that its a good deal? Also, the straps are all tan. Does that mean their for deasel? Would I need to replace the gaskets for gas? |
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When there's no more room in hell, the dead will walk the earth.
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Originally Posted By ZombieKiller25:
Originally Posted By zlman:
Originally Posted By ZombieKiller25:
I normally do the metal jerry cans but my local surplus store has the MFC's for $50 each plus tax. Is that a good deal? Give me a web address please............. lol I take it that its a good deal? Also, the straps are all tan. Does that mean their for deasel? Would I need to replace the gaskets for gas? More than likely yes. Search usernames for "vatopa" if you get any, and send him a PM. I got the viton gaskets from him for the lowest price to be found. He's good to go. If you put gas in an MFC without Viton gaskets this will likely happen:Busted flange thread... $50 is an awesome price–– if they are new cans, and I'd snap them up for that. Only so-so if they are used. ETA: almost forgot to add–––– Anyone swapping out for Viton gaskets––- Don't forget Viton o-rings for your pour spouts too. The gas eats the regular Buna rubber o-rings up and they crack and come off. "Vatopa" has those cheap too. Disclaimer: I have no connection to "vatopa" whatsoever, other than I'm happy he hooked me up with what I needed for a realistic non-highway robber price. |
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In what way will this augment my ability to "render inoperative armed opponents" and break things...? (Gotta stay PC for work... don'tchya'know....)
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no explanation necessary, Vatopa hooked a lot of folks up and earned his wings.
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Sure, you can have them all. One round at a time.
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well here is my contribution to this wonderful 19+ page thread of storing highly dangerous yet precious fuels seriously though this thread is great.
Most everything has been covered, including the super siphon and the knock off super siphons....but here is a hack that may or may not of come up already. Both of the aforementioned siphon devices tubes are too short to empty a can quickly. What I have done is added five feet of flexible clear tubing to the end of the super siphon line (10ft to another one), with a hose clamp. I then put my fuel can on either a 7 foot ladder or the roof of my truck, the higher it is the faster the gravity flow. We recently rented a uhaul, and had to rotate through some old gas, so we put a couple five gallon Nato cans on the roof of the uhaul box and it filled the tank....dare I say as fast as the slowest gas pumps in town....like two minutes per can. keep this thread alive, perhaps if OPSEC isn't too much of a concern.....more pics of your stash! |
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Alright guys! I've read the entire thread. Just ordered from AtlanticBritish 10 cans and 4 spouts. Hope i can afford to fill em when they get here! Thanks for the info
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If wishes were horses then beggars would ride.
NH, USA
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Don't the 2.5" screws poke through?
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"You can ignore reality, but you cannot ignore the consequences of ignoring reality."
Ayn Rand |
Originally Posted By Rodent:
Don't the 2.5" screws poke through? Should poke through by 1/4" |
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Common Sense isn't as Common as Commonly Thought
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No they go into the 2x4's only on the long side, and on the bottom pointed up into the 2x4's. The single screws on the left and right corners are 2.5" (that you see on the four corners, the others are1.25"
No screws poke through at all. Hmm, I guess I didn't clarify I used multiple lengths. Edited to clarify. |
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Thanks n3,
Building it now. This is what I was looking for. |
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I put some instructions and added more pics above, hopefully it helps you.
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I had most of it built before your updated post, but we came about the same. My long cuts were 31 1/4" and the side cuts were 14 1/2". My high cuts came out the same at 16". I didn't want the cans to fit in to tight to leave room for expansion and ease of getting them in and out. I used pressure treated wood with 2 1/2" and 1 1/4" screws that you recomended and they worked out great. I also used wood glue. I was looking for a way to put the jerry cans in the bed of the truck and this is so much more secure than just a bar or a 2x6 going across the bed of the truck. I will be building another soon since I have a total of 8 cans. I think I might even put a hasp on the box for a padlock so I can put a cable through the cans. Thanks again for the suggestion and pic's.
TriggerPete |
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Originally Posted By TriggerPete:
I had most of it built before your updated post, but we came about the same. My long cuts were 31 1/4" and the side cuts were 14 1/2". My high cuts came out the same at 16". I didn't want the cans to fit in to tight to leave room for expansion and ease of getting them in and out. I used pressure treated wood with 2 1/2" and 1 1/4" screws that you recomended and they worked out great. I also used wood glue. I was looking for a way to put the jerry cans in the bed of the truck and this is so much more secure than just a bar or a 2x6 going across the bed of the truck. I will be building another soon since I have a total of 8 cans. I think I might even put a hasp on the box for a padlock so I can put a cable through the cans. Thanks again for the suggestion and pic's. TriggerPete "I didn't want the cans to fit in to tight to leave room for expansion and ease of getting them in and out." Good thinking, I can see a situation where they'd swell and couldn't be removed or break the rack. |
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Originally Posted By n3awalk3r:
Made me a little crate for safety in transport and in the garage. I can secure the crate in the bed of my truck. 2x4's on the sides and bottom, 1x4's for supports elsewhere. I used 2.5", and 1.25" screws into the 2x4's after nailing. It is friggn sturdy. http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr170/neawalker/Cans.png Edit with info: I made the two surrounding "rings" first. The side 2x4's are cut to 13.75", the long 1x4's are 29.75". The bottom support 2x4's are also 29.75" The side vertical 1x4 supports holding the lower 2x4's and the "rings" are 16" long. The front and back vertical 1x4 supports for the "rings" are 14.5" long. Hopefully you can understand my terminology. While the ring dimensions will remain the same for the 4 cans (I purchased these from Deutsche Optik) You can space the height as you would like to be higher or lower. I thought about making them higher so I could stack them, but though it would not be safe to stack. I think I purchased two 8ft 2x4's, and two 8ft 1x4's. The nails used were 2", then I screwed each section as I assembled it. 2.5" into the 2x4's long ways, and 1.25" screws for the 1x4 to 1x4 areas. Hopefully I explained it good enough. I'm no engineer. Top View without cans: http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr170/neawalker/DSC_2374.jpg View of bottom supports: http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr170/neawalker/DSC_2375.jpg Nice work. |
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"All compromise is based on give and take, but there can be no give and take on fundamentals. Any compromise on mere fundamentals is a surrender. For it is all give and no take." -Ghandi
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Nice work.
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SCHADENFREUDE - Hearing of the misfortune of an Obama voter related how any aspect of their life sucks because of Obama.
The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing. - Edmund Burke |
I just topped off my TJ and Frontier with my cans to rotate the as out of them and didn't spill a drop and didn't leave a drop in any of the cans. I don't see why some people say they can't pour into their vehicles out of the spouts they sell. Now I just need to fill them back up with even cheaper gas than I got a cuple of weeks ago.
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Originally Posted By n3awalk3r:
Made me a little crate for safety in transport and in the garage. I can secure the crate in the bed of my truck. 2x4's on the sides and bottom, 1x4's for supports elsewhere. I used 2.5", and 1.25" screws into the 2x4's after nailing. It is friggn sturdy. http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr170/neawalker/Cans.png Edit with info: I made the two surrounding "rings" first. The side 2x4's are cut to 13.75", the long 1x4's are 29.75". The bottom support 2x4's are also 29.75" The side vertical 1x4 supports holding the lower 2x4's and the "rings" are 16" long. The front and back vertical 1x4 supports for the "rings" are 14.5" long. Hopefully you can understand my terminology. While the ring dimensions will remain the same for the 4 cans (I purchased these from Deutsche Optik) You can space the height as you would like to be higher or lower. I thought about making them higher so I could stack them, but though it would not be safe to stack. I think I purchased two 8ft 2x4's, and two 8ft 1x4's. The nails used were 2", then I screwed each section as I assembled it. 2.5" into the 2x4's long ways, and 1.25" screws for the 1x4 to 1x4 areas. Hopefully I explained it good enough. I'm no engineer. Top View without cans: http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr170/neawalker/DSC_2374.jpg View of bottom supports: http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr170/neawalker/DSC_2375.jpg Are those the Deutscheoptik cans? Are they GTG for fuel storage?Also, are they a good company to buy from? |
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I would like to thank everyone who posted information in this thread!
A++ work! |
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"I ain't gonna worry wrinkles in my brow, cuz nothin's never gonna be alright nohow. No matter how I struggle and strive, I'll never get out of this world alive."
— Hank Williams |
In the land of the blind the one eyed man is king.
CT, USA
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Originally Posted By 1811guy:
Originally Posted By n3awalk3r:
Made me a little crate for safety in transport and in the garage. I can secure the crate in the bed of my truck. 2x4's on the sides and bottom, 1x4's for supports elsewhere. I used 2.5", and 1.25" screws into the 2x4's after nailing. It is friggn sturdy. http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr170/neawalker/Cans.png Edit with info: I made the two surrounding "rings" first. The side 2x4's are cut to 13.75", the long 1x4's are 29.75". The bottom support 2x4's are also 29.75" The side vertical 1x4 supports holding the lower 2x4's and the "rings" are 16" long. The front and back vertical 1x4 supports for the "rings" are 14.5" long. Hopefully you can understand my terminology. While the ring dimensions will remain the same for the 4 cans (I purchased these from Deutsche Optik) You can space the height as you would like to be higher or lower. I thought about making them higher so I could stack them, but though it would not be safe to stack. I think I purchased two 8ft 2x4's, and two 8ft 1x4's. The nails used were 2", then I screwed each section as I assembled it. 2.5" into the 2x4's long ways, and 1.25" screws for the 1x4 to 1x4 areas. Hopefully I explained it good enough. I'm no engineer. Top View without cans: http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr170/neawalker/DSC_2374.jpg View of bottom supports: http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr170/neawalker/DSC_2375.jpg Are those the Deutscheoptik cans? Are they GTG for fuel storage?Also, are they a good company to buy from? Yes and Yes. I have bought 4 large cans and 2 small cans from them and have never had a problem. |
"You can get further with a kind word and a gun, than you can with just a kind word."
"We are playing chess here motherfucker not checkers." |
Originally Posted By vm1970:
Originally Posted By 1811guy:
Originally Posted By n3awalk3r:
Made me a little crate for safety in transport and in the garage. I can secure the crate in the bed of my truck. 2x4's on the sides and bottom, 1x4's for supports elsewhere. I used 2.5", and 1.25" screws into the 2x4's after nailing. It is friggn sturdy. http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr170/neawalker/Cans.png Edit with info: I made the two surrounding "rings" first. The side 2x4's are cut to 13.75", the long 1x4's are 29.75". The bottom support 2x4's are also 29.75" The side vertical 1x4 supports holding the lower 2x4's and the "rings" are 16" long. The front and back vertical 1x4 supports for the "rings" are 14.5" long. Hopefully you can understand my terminology. While the ring dimensions will remain the same for the 4 cans (I purchased these from Deutsche Optik) You can space the height as you would like to be higher or lower. I thought about making them higher so I could stack them, but though it would not be safe to stack. I think I purchased two 8ft 2x4's, and two 8ft 1x4's. The nails used were 2", then I screwed each section as I assembled it. 2.5" into the 2x4's long ways, and 1.25" screws for the 1x4 to 1x4 areas. Hopefully I explained it good enough. I'm no engineer. Top View without cans: http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr170/neawalker/DSC_2374.jpg View of bottom supports: http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr170/neawalker/DSC_2375.jpg Are those the Deutscheoptik cans? Are they GTG for fuel storage?Also, are they a good company to buy from? Yes and Yes. I have bought 4 large cans and 2 small cans from them and have never had a problem. Thanks! Just ordered 4 and a spout. |
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Just got a can and spout off of ebay and the interior or the can is not painted. What is the cheapest fix short of sending it back?
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$ John Galt for President 2012 $
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I just ordered some 20L, 10L, and a 5L Jerry can from Atlantic British. I won't begin using them for a couple of years. So I will need to store and preserve them until that time. Would it be a good idea to use a vapor phase corrosion inhibitor like the one "3 in 1 Oil" sells ( http://www.3inone.com.au/3inone/no_rust_shield.php ) to keep the inside from rusting?
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Just updated the Viton gasket portion with new info.
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Sure, you can have them all. One round at a time.
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Originally Posted By FordGuy:
Just updated the Viton gasket portion with new info. Woot! I finally get to contribute something worthwhile. I should have known that professing my stupidity was the key.LOL |
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In what way will this augment my ability to "render inoperative armed opponents" and break things...? (Gotta stay PC for work... don'tchya'know....)
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Originally Posted By Bizarro:
Just got a can and spout off of ebay and the interior or the can is not painted. What is the cheapest fix short of sending it back? I always thought the NATO cans are lined inside. I don't know what you paid, or how yours was advertised, but I suspect you got a Chinese knock-off can. You can buy fuel tank liner at an auto parts store or online, but when I I looked, it was not a very cheap option. Between cans and tank liner, I could just buy real NATO cans for the cost. |
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In Texas "He needed killin" is a defense to prosecution - COZ_45
Whether you think you can or you think you can't . . . . You're right! - Henry Ford as quoted by Stewie Griffin |
Is $38.50 too much for new NATO Jerry cans?
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Originally Posted By AirRaceFan: Is $38.50 too much for new NATO Jerry cans? No, not for a quality can. I paid $30 for mine from Deutsche Optik 3 years ago, and now they are up to $50. |
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Arfcom's Razor: All other things being equal, the correct answer is usually "conspiracy".
Pinning one's hopes on rational behavior from bad men is a poor survival strategy. |
DO has cans marked like that. They look fine, but I can't see how thick the steel is or how well it is coated inside.
Who is selling them? |
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Arfcom's Razor: All other things being equal, the correct answer is usually "conspiracy".
Pinning one's hopes on rational behavior from bad men is a poor survival strategy. |
Lexington Container Co. has them listed as a coming soon item.
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Originally Posted By AirRaceFan:
Originally Posted By wingnutx:
Originally Posted By AirRaceFan:
Is $38.50 too much for new NATO Jerry cans? No, not for a quality can. I paid $30 for mine from Deutsche Optik 3 years ago, and now they are up to $50. Do these seem to be the real deal? They're marked "not for fuel use" supposedly because of EPA regs. http://i.imgur.com/Rx8Vx.jpg http://i.imgur.com/eQ8f9.jpg I bet those are chinese knockoffs. |
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How can you tell the real deal? I may be going there to pick up some more water storage, if I they have the cans in stock and I can eyeball them, what should I look for?
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Without a real nato can to compare it may be hard to. I would look for bad welds, cheap, thin steel and any other typical chinese-type shortcuts. Best I can tell you.
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Originally Posted By Merlin:
Without a real nato can to compare it may be hard to. I would look for bad welds, cheap, thin steel and any other typical chinese-type shortcuts. Best I can tell you. After further research, the cans sold on Atlantic British seem to be the same can as the ones I posted above. |
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Originally Posted By AirRaceFan:
Originally Posted By Merlin:
Without a real nato can to compare it may be hard to. I would look for bad welds, cheap, thin steel and any other typical chinese-type shortcuts. Best I can tell you. After further research, the cans sold on Atlantic British seem to be the same can as the ones I posted above. Shouldn't the vendor be able to tell you the country of origin? |
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Originally Posted By rsqhobbs:
Originally Posted By AirRaceFan:
Originally Posted By Merlin:
Without a real nato can to compare it may be hard to. I would look for bad welds, cheap, thin steel and any other typical chinese-type shortcuts. Best I can tell you. After further research, the cans sold on Atlantic British seem to be the same can as the ones I posted above. Shouldn't the vendor be able to tell you the country of origin? I'm awaiting a reply to my email. |
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Alot of the cheaper cans have no liner. The liner should be a redish, orangish, brownish color for fuel cans.
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"Interest rates were lowered to stupid levels and lending requirements abandoned in order to ensure that some schmuck who couldn't realistically afford a 27 year old single wide trailer could now move into a quarter million dollar home." FROZENN
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Wow!
That one pix looks like something taken by Curious on Mars of a bunch of Martains with 4 wooden legs and Blitz cans for heads mobbing the rover. |
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Have these been mentioned yet?
The fix to the carb compliant can: http://www.ezpourspout.com/index.html |
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Regards,
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pay the fifty cents extra and get the Atlantic British and don't be worried about the quality issue They are great.
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BulletcatchR, those cans are looking very good. That should be an extremely durable finish!
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Does any one know if a Jegs lid will thread onto a Blitz fuel can?
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