Posted: 7/17/2008 12:28:27 PM EDT
| So our place is having a problem keeping the gate locked. The locks are being broke off on a random basis. Is there any way to keep a master type lock from being broke? The current gate has 4 locks on it and needs to stay that way in order for me to know who is in and out. Is there a design idea anyone has that could be used? |
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I've seen (master type) locks that you couldn't cut and the guy "said" you couldn't beat it open. He had a good set of bolt cuters and a 100. bill in a case if you could cut it (nobody could) but no hammer so idk....This was before i knew about drilling locks so i didn't ask if they were drill proof........ The standard "box" that people use to prevent them being cut or beat off works great for everything except a drill......... their is a patern for multiple locks for the box too they use it at a ranch i hunt in south texas. I haven't seen a key lock yet i can't drill....... not saying their isn't one available but i've yet to see one. A friend of mine was having the same issue your having a few yrs ago untill he put box's on his gates but then they started cutting his fence 
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Big +1 to this post. Locks are easier to replace than a fence. Tj |
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Their is a solution to your problem........I'm from Texas so i know the solution...... But the solution is like fight club the first rule is don't talk about the solution  Rumor has it my friend didn't repair to many fences untill he used the solution  This post is pure bs and internet fiction to be taken as anything else would be silly 
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Sort of like SSS right? Shoot Shovel and Shut up! |
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Standard DOD design for high security locks uses a blocking plate (aka Baffle Bar) below the lock to prevent the use of a drill or slide hammer (body dent remover/gear puller). On a door this is as simple as welding a piece of angle under the lock. You can google NAPEC Hasps for more info. On issue with making the lock totally secure is some idiot with a tooth pick and epoxy can make you life miserable as can a nest of wasps if the lock is recessed. The NAPEC hasp only covers the shackle, not the body BTW. One thing that works well on a series of locks on a gate is to take 3/8" grade 80 chain (or better PEWAG square link chain from McMaster Carr) and use locks with shrouded shackles. you will have to check the fit, but properly done, bolt cutters can't reach the shackle, and Grade 80 chain is almost impossable to cut, the PEWAG is impossable to cut with cutters. A grinder will do it, but it will be slow. Master lock makes an iron shrouded lock in their Pro series that works great for this, BUT the lock can be opened in 5 minutes or less with a cordless drill by drilling out the rivet that retains the cylinder. All of the Pro series have this problem. Medecos do not, but at a higher price. I use the pro series, but only on things of nominal value. If we avoid the pro series, the next best choice is probally to get 3/8 or 1/2" chain, and the largest hardened steel shakle padlock you can find. Master locks can be had with 7/16" alloy shackles for $12 each. Designing an enclosure for 2-4 locks can be done, but after that it becomes some rube goldberg nightmare. Email me if you want a pic. For 2 locks you have a pipe with a pin in it with a lock on each end. Either lock can be removed to slide the Pin out. the pin passes through a chain link, or through the gate. For four locks, you have a cross bar, with a pin in each end. any one of four locks will allow the removal of one pin. Removing one pin, allows the crossbar to be pushed towards the other pipe. The cross bar is notched such that the gate (or chain) is locked when it is centered. One thing to remember is that most people coming in do not have nice Ridgid or HK Porter bolt cutters. They are likely to have imported boltcutters that will fail to cut hardened steel. Almost anything alloy will defeat hacksaws BTW, and really slow up use of a cutting torch. |
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