Finally got motivated enough to swap out my 40m doublet 300 Ohm feed line with 600 Ohm true ladder line. I like the 300 except when wet or covered in snow. Got tired of the wild swr swings & tuner fits. Wil not be an issue with the true ladder line. I had 125' left from an old 80m doublet that was taken out by large rotten oak limb last year. Time to get the antennas ready, winter is coming.
Woke up to a light frost here today.

I've been meaning to do something similar - I have a box of insulators and a bunch of #14 THHN that I've been planning to use.

What are you using for the insulator/spacer material? It looks like some sort of tubing.

Do you have any measures to keep the spacers from sliding along the wires?

I purchased mine from here a few years ago. True Ladder Line

It has gone up in price since then. You can request any length you want if its not listed. They use some sort of irrigation tubing spacers with punched slots for the wire. I had mine up a year before it was broken, never had a wire slip out. Looks like you can get #14 or #16 gauge wire now.

@HogSniper
How did it tune up, and what are you using for a tuner?
73,
Rob

Haven't even tried yet. The current geo storm has noise levels so high, figured I would work on antennas. I plan to check it with analyzer later when time allows. I have a Balun Designs 4:1 & DXE 1:1 current balun outside shack entry so I can switch depending on impedance. The 1:1 worked better on my old 80m version. Sometimes 4:1 will drop the impedance too low, still tunes but not as efficient.  I'm using a Elecraft KAT500 tuner. Short 3' coax run to bulkhead entry & 3' jumper to the balun.

I am building a 135’ doublet that transitions to open ladder line. No splices from the feed to the elements. I am building the ladder line with electric fence eyelet insulators. Should work good. Yea the 4:1 many times will end up making the impedance lower than 50 ohms. Very hard on the tuners to tune and ends up burning stuff up from the increased current. One of the reasons I like to sweep them over the band and get an idea of what the feed point impedance is going to be. Then finding a Balun that will keep them all above 50 ohms. Let the tuner do the rest. Reduces the losses in the tuner and the balun core from reaching saturation. Minimizing the losses you can.