Posted: 9/20/2011 9:03:33 AM EDT
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Just curious what people are running for mobile setups. Pics encouraged.
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| Ours vary in type and configuration. Several of the motorcycles which my wife and I ride (we're both licensed) are equipped with FTM-10SR dualbanders, and another has a hookup which can accommodate our VX6R or VX7R handhelds. Her car currently sports a Kenwood TM701/TM331 pair, controlled by an RC20. Mine has a TM721 dualbander and an HR2510. I told her that an IC-706Mk2G or TS-B2000 awaits as an upgrade present but thus far she hasn't taken the bait. |
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2003 Jeep Wrangler. Icom IC-2350 for VHF/UHF FM and cross-band repeat. Comet SBB-5 antenna on top of windshield frame. HR-2510 for 10m HF ops. 102 inch steel whip on the right rear quarter for antenna. I'm seriously thinking about putting the IC-706mk2g in there though. I have some pics around here somewhere..
ETA–– pic 
2510 during install, note backstrap to stabilize rig. 
#8AWG pos and neg supply direct from the battery for "the gear". 
I don't really have any good pics of the antennas. 
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Kenwood TM-d710a with a Larsen 2/70B or a Comet SBB-1 antenna. '11 GMC 1500 double cab. No pics yet since there's nothing installed yet but wires. My install is a work in progress, currently stalled due to pressing family obligations. I've spent spare time typing frequencies into the memory controller program. Power will go through a Powerwerx box to cut power & save the battery when voltage drops. The radio box itself is on a mount I made to bolt on the rear seat frames. On the driver side is a Pro Fit NMO mount up at the hood. I thought it would look nice and avoid drilling holes. It's OK with a rain cap on the mount, but an antenna flapping in the wind there isn't my favorite. There is a bit of exposed coax running from the mount under the hood, too. Once the radio is confirmed working, I'll suck it up and punch a hole in the roof. Since I went to so much trouble to hide the coax and go through a rubber boot with the up-front mount, I'll take it off the steel bracket and keep it zip tied safely under the hood. I'm getting an NMO to 3/8" adapter - when or if I want to run a CB or HF with very lightweight fiberglass whips, I'll use that hood bracket as a removable mounting point. Still don't have a satisfactory location to mount the controller or mic hanger. This is costing way more than a pro install, but I'm learning a bunch. Wifey won't let holes go in her car, so I'm still figuring out how to get power into the cab discreetly for occasional use. For temporary work in her car or another, I have a Kenwood TM-231 and Diamond K400 NMO clamp mount. There's a cigarette plug to Powerpole adapter somewhere in my junk pile (though I worry about power draw vs cigarette lighter capacity). And still there's really nobody in the area talking when I scan or call out. |
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i employ the ARFCOM-approved, Ham Radio Forum-mandated, combo of the Yaesu FT8800 dual band transceiver and Comet SBB5 NMO mount aerial. all vhf/uhf installations posted prior to this post and after this post are purely cosmetic imitations of this tour de force system. you should be advised, however, that the overwhelming awesomeness of such setup is a real chick magnet –– you will have a hard time going anywhere without the prettiest females in the area leaning into the vehicle, chatting it up, and wanting a ride with you. ar-jedi 
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Kenwood TM-D700. Left & right audio go to a pair of Boston Acoustic speakers that occupy empty positions in the dash that were intended for the "premium" sound system. I brought the mic cable up to a junction box by the driver's seat which breaks out the mic jack to my PTT and a DC-biased Radio Shack mic. I can use either the head mic or the hand mic:
PTT, in this case is Pull-To-Talk so I can drive & shift hands-free.  It's my own invention. An aluminum housing with a momentary microswitch inside, composite bearings and Teflon glides that guide a titanium shaft. Brass plates hold it together. All made on my milling machine.
I'm in the process of updating & refurbishing my RoboMast and adapting it from my old truck to my new one. It holds a Comet SBB-7 and lays flat within seconds at the touch of a button in the cab (sorry for the giant pics):  
At the same time, I'm working on an entirely new model that is far more streamlined and attractive. |
Yaesu FT-857 remote-mounted, Comet SBB5NMO on Diamond K400NMO mount, and Yaesu ATAS-120 on Diamond K400 mount. I'm on the east coast and regularly talk as far as the Dakotas & Minnesota while mobile, mostly on 20m. I also talk all up & down the east coast & into Ohio, Indiana, & Texas on 20m & 40m.               |
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YAESU FT-857D
TARHEEL II screwdriver antenna My ground-bonding is very similar to "6530"s, but I used braid everywere. Sometimes, I wish I would have kept my old IC-706MKIIg, I Liked the ergonomics better. I think the ICOM DSP is better too but then I think, I should just get another KENWOOD TS-480. I LOVE that thing. the 857 display is too damn small and the menu's are a pain in the ass. |
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Quoted: Needs more grounding.  Looks nice; thanks for the detailed & informative pics. LOL, thanks. There are several photos I didn't show...all doors are bonded, both sides of the hood, etc. I learned that grounding is key. The grounding of the HF antenna/mount is desoldering wick - it works great. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Needs more grounding.
Looks nice; thanks for the detailed & informative pics. LOL, thanks. There are several photos I didn't show...all doors are bonded, both sides of the hood, etc. I learned that grounding is key. The grounding of the HF antenna/mount is desoldering wick - it works great. That was a very helpful post for me. Thanks! 
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In the Truck I run a Kenwood TM-G707 (Dual Band) and a simple DB antenna on a Fender Mount. I also retained my 11 Meter rig, a Galaxy 959. The CB antenna is mounted on the passenger fender.
the brain is mounted under the center seat 
a little ARFCOM Green for good measure Ext Speaker mounted down low (look under the brake control) 
out the front window, drivers view 
Dual Band Antenna 
11 meter (CB) Antenna I had initially planned to mount the head unit overhead in the console. But once I got ready to do it and tried a test fit, I didn't like it. I decided to mount lower, and more out of the way. I used the Kenwood because it's what I had (I really wanted a Kenwood TM-71). I passed over a few used 7900's and a new Alinco 635T because, again, Initially I planned to mount over head and didn't want the mic cord in my face-and fair game with the kid that sits in the middle of the front bench (I've got 4 kids and #5 due in November). Now that is a Moot point, and sometimes I wish I had gone for the Alinco and kept my Dual Band in the EMCOMM Box. It's all about Hindsight!  I still can't complain too much, I got the Radio at a good price and the Mounting Kit for a song-still in much less than even the new Alinco. 
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Quoted:
BlammO <–– fargin' showoff!!!! Sheesh!!! 
No, seriously, that is seriously fine work, guy! Please don't encourage him. 
I'm running a FT-8800R for voice and IC-2000H for APRS. I don't have a pic of the 8800 head handy. Both are powered through a RigRunner 4005H and I added a PC fan since they're mounted behind the rear seat of my truck and don't get much airflow. The 8800 would overheat before adding the fan. 
The 8800 is inverted for easy access to the programming port and antenna connection. The 2000 doesn't have a removable head so I left it upright. I'm using an OpenTracker+ from Argent Data Systems. That'll hopefully be replaced soon with a Tracker2 and tied in to my Nuvi GPS. |
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No pics currently but...
2005 Toyota Tacoma extended cab. Icom ID-880 (was a 208h before the upgrade) radio is mounted under the drivers seat, mic on extension cable the comes out from under the console, display is mounted on my rear view mirror. Antenna is a commet 767 on a comet trunk lid mount on my hood. I would like to have my Alinco 220 rig in the truck but I have not figured out where to put it yet. |
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I need to figure out if I can mount something in my 2012 Ford Focus! I would like to get another Kenwood like I have for home just for familiarity, but I cringe at the thought of mounting an antenna! Bill I have a 2003 ford focus, I have a FT-7900r mounted in it. The antenna I have is getting replaced very soon, I do not like the mag mount. I have the radio mounted in the trunk under the rear deck, and the head mounted to the left side of the radio on the dash. You could always run a trunk lip mount, I currently have the mag mount on the trunk. I am picking up a standard NMO mount tomorrow after I take the Extra Exam, and will be drilling a hole in the roof in the coming weeks.
It makes for a clean install, and if you get one of the mounts for the head like ar-jedi has in his truck it would work well. |
My 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser and Yaesu FT-2800M. Installed as seen here http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/stereo-electronics-electrical/66658-dual-radio-ham-cb-install.html Power and coax runs in behind the rearview. Power then runs down through the firewall and direct to the battery. Coax runs along the headliner to the back door and connects to a Diamond SG7500A.
The coax in this pic has been cleaned up. It all runs inside the headliner now. 
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Quoted:
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I need to figure out if I can mount something in my 2012 Ford Focus! I would like to get another Kenwood like I have for home just for familiarity, but I cringe at the thought of mounting an antenna! Bill I have a 2003 ford focus, I have a FT-7900r mounted in it. The antenna I have is getting replaced very soon, I do not like the mag mount. I have the radio mounted in the trunk under the rear deck, and the head mounted to the left side of the radio on the dash. You could always run a trunk lip mount, I currently have the mag mount on the trunk. I am picking up a standard NMO mount tomorrow after I take the Extra Exam, and will be drilling a hole in the roof in the coming weeks.
It makes for a clean install, and if you get one of the mounts for the head like ar-jedi has in his truck it would work well. Thanks, but I still cringe at the thought of an NMO mount through a brand new vehicle. Trunk lip mount seems less cringable on the new vehicle, so that is where I am headed. The 2012 is a 5 door hatchback, so the trunk wall space is limited to mount a radio. I may figure something out at the next LIMARC Hamfest 09/25/2011. Bill |
"No visible holes" mounting of Yaesu FT-7800 control head to center console:
The "bracket" is a piece of fiberglass PCB material that slips in a gap between two pieces on the console, secured with several screws (not visible) inside the gap - holds the control head a fraction of an inch above the console. The rest of the radio is mounted in the trunk. One of the nice things about the FT-7800/7900 series is that it is typically sold with the remote mounting hardware and cables included at no extra cost. |
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Quoted:
ar-jedi
Shameful. It looks like there's extra room in that snap on ferrite and it's right next to a coil? Choking is a function of the number of turns squared, so if you moved over where you have the two coils you'd quadruple your effectiveness of the bead.
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Quoted:
Shameful. agreed.
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It looks like there's extra room in that snap on ferrite and it's right next to a coil? Choking is a function of the number of turns squared, so if you moved over where you have the two coils you'd quadruple your effectiveness of the bead. when i first installed a radio into my Tacoma, i was plagued to no end by noise from the COP (coil-on-plug) ignition system. after doing some troubleshooting, it was definitely radiated and not conducted. my Icom V8000 seemed especially plagued by it, and it pissed me off that a friend with a similar Tacoma and the same V8000 had no such problem. i worked over the COP system with a number of split ferrites of various types, and finally got the COP noise down to a bearable level. i think i snapped that last ferrite on the power cord as a placeholder, as it made not one whit of difference no matter how much inductance i added to the power cabling –– the COP noise was captured by the aerial and getting in the RF front end. when i moved to the FT8800, primarily for the 440 and also for the crossband repeat, i kept the ferrites in place but the COP noise was absent compared to the V8000. ar-jedi 
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Shameful. agreed.
Quoted:
It looks like there's extra room in that snap on ferrite and it's right next to a coil? Choking is a function of the number of turns squared, so if you moved over where you have the two coils you'd quadruple your effectiveness of the bead. when i first installed a radio into my Tacoma, i was plagued to no end by noise from the COP (coil-on-plug) ignition system. after doing some troubleshooting, it was definitely radiated and not conducted. my Icom V8000 seemed especially plagued by it, and it pissed me off that a friend with a similar Tacoma and the same V8000 had no such problem. i worked over the COP system with a number of split ferrites of various types, and finally got the COP noise down to a bearable level. i think i snapped that last ferrite on the power cord as a placeholder, as it made not one whit of difference no matter how much inductance i added to the power cabling –– the COP noise was captured by the aerial and getting in the RF front end. when i moved to the FT8800, primarily for the 440 and also for the crossband repeat, i kept the ferrites in place but the COP noise was absent compared to the V8000. ar-jedi http://losdos.dyndns.org/public/ham/tacoma-icom-v8000/DSCN1592_sm.jpg http://losdos.dyndns.org/public/ham/tacoma-icom-v8000/DSCN1597-annotated_sm.jpg http://losdos.dyndns.org/public/ham/tacoma-icom-v8000/DSCN1601_sm.jpg http://losdos.dyndns.org/public/tacoma/DSCN1815_sm.jpg http://losdos.dyndns.org/public/tacoma/DSCN1816_sm.jpg http://losdos.dyndns.org/public/tacoma/DSCN1818_sm.jpg http://losdos.dyndns.org/public/tacoma/DSCN1822_sm.jpg Interesting, there were some toyota coil packs in the late 90's early 2000 that had some issues with RFI from coil packs. Mainly it became noise in the radio's and speakers. Toyota like to put the Coil Drivers in the coil packs, or in at least one of them. The problem is some of the coil packs had inadequate shielding, and would cause noise.I recall this on the Camry and Corolla with COP, but never on V6 model or trucks. |
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Quoted: My 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser and Yaesu FT-2800M. Installed as seen here http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/stereo-electronics-electrical/66658-dual-radio-ham-cb-install.html Power and coax runs in behind the rearview. Power then runs down through the firewall and direct to the battery. Coax runs along the headliner to the back door and connects to a Diamond SG7500A. http://i594.photobucket.com/albums/tt27/evanloadsthat/DSC_5414.jpg http://i594.photobucket.com/albums/tt27/evanloadsthat/DSC_5336-1.jpg The coax in this pic has been cleaned up. It all runs inside the headliner now. http://i594.photobucket.com/albums/tt27/evanloadsthat/DSC_5338-1.jpg It'll be tough to spill a cup of coffee on that radio! Great job. |
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Here's my mobile setup: EmComm Ammo Can Rig (FT-857D) in the trunk of my car, tucked away.  Also included is a VX-8R w/ GPS mic for APRS (on a 15" seat mount, driver's side). The mike is clipped to the underside of my iPhone charger/holder. Also pictured is my Sirius Sat.  FT-857D Faceplate and I hooked up an external speaker under it. I got the "cell phone" base mount from ProClip and used it to mount my 857D instead.  My Lexus ES300: ATAS-120A [40m-70cm], Diamond D220 [Wideband Rx : Tx 2m, 70cm, and 900mhz (which I don't have a radio for that freq)]  I grounded everything together, including the exhaust pipe. I also put copper tape around the sparkplug caps and grounded that as well. |
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Quoted: how hot does your 857 run, boxed up like this ? http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/ChinoUSMC/Ham%20Radio/6de9097f.jpg It's Low to Moderate, overall, not bad. I have a TCXO-9 chip installed which provides stability over a wide range of ambient temperatures. The trunk is decently insulated. The wide opening of the ammo can gives it plenty of air, plus the rig also has some space between it and the board it was mounted on. It has plenty of ventilation. If worse comes to worse, I could mount a little 12v fan to keep the air circulating, but I haven't found a need for one yet. |
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Thread derail...
Mobile ops related. I know what you are fighting with the ignition noise problems my toyota is an '88 4Runner with an old school distributor Still fighting it. I tried split beads on the high tension leads, no effect, decided they may be a bad idea since the high tension leads are single conductor I thought they might be diminishing spark energy. So I basically end up replacing the plugs, cap & rotator every 20k-50k miles (the noise in the receiver will become unbearable and let me know it's time). I'm planing to play with changing capacitors on the primary side, there was one there factory but maybe it's not functioning. It's probably fine but smoothing the primary side should also smooth the pulses on the secondary side, and since its going through the coil you get a greater effect from the capacitance. You also might try adding some caps on the primary side of COP packs... I still need to do a lot more bonding to mine, hopefully that will fix it.
Reminds me, Still need to add that cap to the wiper motor. The one I put in the blower motor worked like a champ. |
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Here are many pics of my install of the Kenwood TM-D710A. Unfortunately, my tx signal is not very strong with either antenna mounting location. That's with both the SBB1 and the Larsen 2/70NMOB.
I can light up repeaters easily with the VX8R, but can often only get a kerchunk from the mobile. If I enunciate and try to be very "modulated" (to use a euphemism from my broadcast days), I can just make out my voice via repeater on the HT. Hitting same repeater from the HT and listening over the mobile is so strong that I get feedback squeal. Simplex, I can listen fine on the HT from a few feet away. There's some tx signal going out, but not what I expect. 2 options: A- the mobile is typical and my HT is some little miracle box since it hit a machine over 100mi away one night on a mobile antenna. B- the mobile tx is weak on both VFOs or my vehicle is just incompatible with effectively radiating transmissions. I was given a VHF power/SWR meter. I dont think it works, as it registers no transmitted power from the HT or mobile in the "PWR" setting. On the upside, the needle jiggles a little in SWR mode and makes it look like my antennae are about 1:1.
Mounting bracket I made of mild predrilled steel from Lowes or HD. Cut to length, Plasti-dipped, then gently bent in vise. It bolts through a pre-existing hole in the rear pax seat mounts. 
The silver screws are OEM Kenwood. They don't contact any part of the vehicle, passing through the mounting bracket and just hang in the air. Ugly, so I'll file the points down & paint them black eventually. 
Power leads to battery, dual fused. They travel up to the left of the image inside split loom. 
Power wire, 10g zip cord, in fire resistant split loom, zip tied several spots and out of the way of hinges or moving parts. Passes through the door wiring boot, sealed with acetone-free RTV. 
Power wire travels under this trim piece. The black and grey wires are the separation cables running from the radio to the control head. 
Coming out from under the trim in the loom are power wire and both mic & control head separation cables. 
Powerwerx APO3. Senses incoming voltage and powers radio when threshold is above a certain level. Powers down after a delay when voltage drops, conserving vehicle battery. The Kenwood automatically turns on when voltage is applied. The effective result is of an ignition key power up, and about 10 minute power off after vehicle is shut off. 
Hood hinge antenna mount. The coax is run identically to the power wires on the other side. 
But I didn't like the view of the antenna while driving, so tonight... 
Pardon the dust, it's been parked outside all week. 
All that's visible inside the cabin unless you look closely for a couple wires. There is an extension speaker fastened underneath the dashboard. 
Edit: I swapped the extension cables for the mic & control head. The CAT6 seems to carry voice signal better than the little Kenwood cable that I suspect was meant for control (vice microphone). It is still noisier/weaker than desired, but actually is audible on repeater. You guys were right. Drilling the first hole is nerve-wracking but ultimately worth doing. It looks much cleaner/professional/OEM, and my XYL much prefers that look to the hood mount. And there is that little matter of being the highest point on the truck with a better ground plane.
Daytime pic of low profile install. The Comet duckie is a compromise, but flexible & friendly to the underground parking garage I use daily. 
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Yaesu ft1900 mounted on a ram mount. The ball for the bottom mount is mounted to the floor under the carpet with just the ball sticking up. The Ram mount gives you lots of range of motion plus acts as a quick release.
I ran the power in 10 gauge from the battery to the cab, under the carpet and to the radio with some power poles connecting it to the radio. The radio is mounted to the ram mount on some Dual Lock Velcro isolating the radio from any ground other than the battery. I don't know if this helps but that's just the way it turned out. I have a Diamond mr77sma mag mount for the antenna just running through the door. I need to redo the headliner so when I do that I'll drill a hole in the roof for a proper antenna mount. Not to bad for my old beater work truck and it gave me some ideas for when I mount my next one.  |
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Let's talk about what works and what doesn't.
First, VHF/UHF is line of sight... well, perhaps a little farther, but you can only go so far regardless of how much power. The real limitations on range are height of your mobile's antenna and height of the other person's (or repeater's) antenna. Neither of those is something you can do anything about. 50 watts for mobile is plenty. My radio, a Yaesu FT-2800M, is rated 65 watts. If doing over I would have bought the smaller FT-1802M (or the newer 1900 posted above), which are rated 50 watts. Don't let power rating be a major factor in buying. There is essentially no difference in signal from 50 w to 75 w. Antenna... I have two, with NMO mount. One is a Diamond 72 something, a 1/4 wave, 14" tall, and I use this when in town. We have a lot of boulevards with trees down the middle, low overhanging branches. Or going through drive throughs at the bank, etc. But I also have a Comet SBB-5 NMO, a halfwave, 38" tall, when I go out of town. I get about 5-10 more miles range with this antenna. Not noticeable most of the time, but on the fringes it helps. Quick and easy to exchange the antennas. The unused one is stored under the back seat of the truck. So, don't buy for power output, buy for the other features you want. Back to the FT-1900R in the post above... it is the same size, essentially an updated FT-1802M. And it is somewhat smaller in all dimensions as compared to the larger, more powerful FT-2900R (and former model FT-2800M). The other features, other than power, are the same, the radios all operate identically. So do not pass over the smaller radio due to power... it just may fit in your vehicle easier, or in a more convenient place than a larger, heavier radio. |
Dual band (dual radio, single control head) Orions with 110W on VHF and UHF, SS2000 integrated into system for lighting and siren controls from the control head as well. Vehicle specific Jotto control head mount. Maxtrac controlled by Opentracker2 for APRS/Packet. BCT15X. Custom MDT with 12" touch screen and custom UI for gps/packet/music/internet/dashcam/etc,
Finalizing some wire routing when the pic was taken... 
Got wheelbase? 
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I just completed the MARS mod on my radio next i'm swapping out the led's to blue or green. |
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I just completed the MARS mod on my radio next i'm swapping out the led's to blue or green. That's cool. Does that make it hard to read at night though? Blue light does not focus sharply on the retina. Maybe it doesn't matter since it's the background color, but it looks like you lost some contrast. I have an LED going intermittent on my TM-D700. I opened it up with the intention of changing to green LED's. The LED's for the buttons are easy enough, but the ones that illuminate the screen are quite a bit deeper than I'm willing to disassemble. 
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Quoted: Quoted: I just completed the MARS mod on my radio next i'm swapping out the led's to blue or green. That's cool. Does that make it hard to read at night though? Blue light does not focus sharply on the retina. Maybe it doesn't matter since it's the background color, but it looks like you lost some contrast. I have an LED going intermittent on my TM-D700. I opened it up with the intention of changing to green LED's. The LED's for the buttons are easy enough, but the ones that illuminate the screen are quite a bit deeper than I'm willing to disassemble. I haven't done mine yet i was just posting the picture to give some idea as to what it would look like. I have the same concern as you about focusing on the blue so I ordered several different sets of led's to find one bright enough without washing out the display contrast. Eta: heres the link for the mars mod |
