Originally Posted By SteelonSteel:
I was shopping Mystik greases on Zoro and was looking at the red tube HiTemp and it says made in US and the Grey tube that has moly and that says made in China.  Ick.  I wonder if that is a website error.

I grease mower spindles, PTO shafts on the tractor and was looking at regular Lithium based for that and the Grey tubed stuff with moly for the front end loader.  

Anyone know if Made in China is correct?

I ordered a case of the High Temp regular Lithium base in the red tube.  20% coupon discount brings it to 4.70 a tube before shipping ($5) and tax. $5.30 a tube to the door.   Pretty good I think these days.  Within a $1 of Amazon but I’ll get it in two days for real from Zoro (Grainger, the parent company, usually ships my Zoro purchases). The down side is Zoro’s website sucks and is the slowest on earth, but they’re always sending me 20% off codes.

Originally Posted By A_G:
Zoro drop ships A LOT. I placed an order with Zoro last week and all four items are drop shipped. One from Germany (Gedore vice grip pliers). The issue with this is it often takes longer to actually ship and of course receive the item. The other issue is that more and more I am seeing minimum order quantities for things, because the manufacturer or distributor won't ship one drill but for instance, they want you to order 2, or 5, or 12, etc.

Originally Posted By thederrick106:


I really wish we had a Rural King in northern NY.  My dad goes to TN in the winter and stocks up on tons of supplies excavation related.

Originally Posted By sitdwnandhngon:
I didn't read through the thread, but hopefully the grease man makes an appearance.

I need to order a few cases for the season.

I want to limit it to two greases if possible. One moly grease for equipment pins and one that is good for both low speed bearings and wheel/axle bearings.

My equipment place is no help, they don't even stock the moly grease for their equipment, and just sell EP lithium to everyone for everything, probably because they know farmers will pump moly into everything then complain when they spin a bearing.

Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:
@Foxtrot08

Got a couple of questions but we will start with this one, from history:

When I was a girl, and my dad would say "get the oil"  he meant the oil can.  It was on a shelf in the barn.  There were two things there.  A metal can of 3-in-1 oil (that's not what he wanted) and a metal oil can with a pump handle.  That's what he was after.

It's the "oil can" from the Wizard of Oz when the Tin Man needed oiling.

What was in that oil can?

Context:

I have just acquired a 1984 Troy Bilt Horse Tiller.  

Cuz 1- Need a tiller

2-It's olde, made of cast iron and the original Briggs engine still purrs.

I like old machines better than new machines usually.

Back to Present:

Research on youtube tells me I need to "oil" certain joints (meaning where two pieces of metal meet and move) on the outside of the tiller.  These are articulation points where two bars of metal meet to make the gear shift lever actually shift.  I learned this "need to oil" when I suddenly could not shift the tiller out of forward without both hands and my full body weight thrown against the lever.  

I went into my garage and picked up the actual metal oil can from the barn where I grew up and helped my dad as a girl (I'm 61).  It's coated in black oil sludge and I have to help the rebound of the pump handle a little, but it pushes out something that looks frighteningly like motor oil.  NOT USED OIL.  It looks like nice clean motor oil.  This has been in the can for at least 50 years. Maybe more like 70 cuz...he was using oil well before I was born.  Just sayin.

Anyway....  I'm squirting this shit on the moving parts of the 40-year-old tiller and when I do that, I can shift in and out of forward/reverse/neutral with almost no effort. So it's working.   BUT..

At some point I have to refill the magic in the ancient oil can.

When you hear "oil the moving parts where the shift lever operates"  what do you tell people to put in the oil can?

Is there even an equivalent to the motor oil that's been sitting in that can for 50-plus years?  Cuz if there is, I want that.

I could take pics of my cool old oil can.  Hell, maybe I should.

Okay there you go.  That's question 1.

It's nice to see you here btw.

Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:
@Foxtrot08

Got a couple of questions but we will start with this one, from history:

When I was a girl, and my dad would say "get the oil"  he meant the oil can.  It was on a shelf in the barn.  There were two things there.  A metal can of 3-in-1 oil (that's not what he wanted) and a metal oil can with a pump handle.  That's what he was after.

It's the "oil can" from the Wizard of Oz when the Tin Man needed oiling.

What was in that oil can?

Context:

I have just acquired a 1984 Troy Bilt Horse Tiller.  

Cuz 1- Need a tiller

2-It's olde, made of cast iron and the original Briggs engine still purrs.

I like old machines better than new machines usually.

Back to Present:

Research on youtube tells me I need to "oil" certain joints (meaning where two pieces of metal meet and move) on the outside of the tiller.  These are articulation points where two bars of metal meet to make the gear shift lever actually shift.  I learned this "need to oil" when I suddenly could not shift the tiller out of forward without both hands and my full body weight thrown against the lever.  

I went into my garage and picked up the actual metal oil can from the barn where I grew up and helped my dad as a girl (I'm 61).  It's coated in black oil sludge and I have to help the rebound of the pump handle a little, but it pushes out something that looks frighteningly like motor oil.  NOT USED OIL.  It looks like nice clean motor oil.  This has been in the can for at least 50 years. Maybe more like 70 cuz...he was using oil well before I was born.  Just sayin.

Anyway....  I'm squirting this shit on the moving parts of the 40-year-old tiller and when I do that, I can shift in and out of forward/reverse/neutral with almost no effort. So it's working.   BUT..

At some point I have to refill the magic in the ancient oil can.

When you hear "oil the moving parts where the shift lever operates"  what do you tell people to put in the oil can?

Is there even an equivalent to the motor oil that's been sitting in that can for 50-plus years?  Cuz if there is, I want that.

I could take pics of my cool old oil can.  Hell, maybe I should.

Okay there you go.  That's question 1.

It's nice to see you here btw.

Originally Posted By thederrick106:


I can only speak generically for what I do, but the "oil" can you describe that I use, gets whatever old leftover remnants from any engine oil jug I happen to have laying around.  Sometimes its conventional 10w30 sometimes its semi 05w20.  If it's just to lubricate old rusty exterior metal parts, then you are basically using it like wd40 or any spray lubricant.  Doesn't really matter for "linkage on a tiller."  Most of these tasks can be accomplished with a wide variety of spray cans such as sticky lithium spray grease, which would stick around longer.

Realistically speaking one would be better off to use a spray can product such as "engage."  That used to be my favorite, but it was always expensive, and I googled it to share and found it's discontinued which would explain why I never see it around anymore.  
https://www.lawsonproducts.com/products/engage-ptfe-lubricant-da7101

Originally Posted By Foxtrot08:


Realistically, I have no idea what’s in a fillable can.


Now, historically it was generally a light R&O oil, such as an R&O 68 or 100. These would also be know. As your non-detergent 20w or 30w oils.

A light hydraulic oil such as an AW32 would work fine.

In your specific application, a motor oil would really be fine as well.

Just looking back historically at old steam engines and equipment from the 20s-60s a they “generally” used a light mineral oil in the can. That being an R&O (rust and oxidation) oil.

Going back before that. They would use a mineral seal oil. Which is sort of a hybrid of kerosene and a super light oil. Something like Kensol 61H.


But the reality for you. Just fill it with whatever you have around that’s pretty light. I would not recommend ATF because of the dye.

All they’re looking for is something light.

Originally Posted By Foxtrot08:



I have one of “those” cans from an old farm we bought.

Found it in a half burned down barn from a lightning strike.  

It’s sitting in my garage.

I have no idea what is actually in it.  But it’s oil.