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Posted: 4/17/2024 4:51:41 PM EST
Update on Page 2: Temporary solution in motion. Don't know how it will work: I'm skeptical of the portable units based on y'all's issues with them, and now, based on other reading I found.
Got the bad news today that our central heat/air unit is toast. It lasted 24 years, so we certainly got our money's worth out of it, but we've got major work to do for a new one to be installed. In the meantime, I need a temporary fix. It's going to get very hot very soon  and I'm looking at those little rolling A/C units, at least for the bedroom, until I can get past a deadline and do some research and get my act together. Does anyone have experience with these? Pros? Cons? Love? Hate? I know they all have to be vented out a window, but I'm confused about the need for a drain hose in the brief reading I've done. All thoughts are welcome. It would be great to have more than one, but I'm guessing the cheaper models are "get what you pay for" and I hate to spend thousands on a temporary solution.  Thanks everyone! ~Kitties |
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Posted: 4/17/2024 5:06:58 PM EST
[#1]
I'll reply soon. About to eat dinner while dogging tornadoes tonight.
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Posted: 4/17/2024 5:08:04 PM EST
[#2]
Con: requires constant makeup air.
Can you use a few window units? |
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Posted: 4/17/2024 5:26:27 PM EST
[#3]
Used one at one time due to central air failure. Needs access to window for intake,goes thru unit and cool air blows out. Pan in bottom needs to be emptied very regularly, worked like a champ. Cooled bedroom very well,left bedroom door open and helped w/ rest of house.
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Posted: 4/17/2024 5:33:53 PM EST
[#4]
I’ve used one.
The 2-hose types that need a window, are more efficient than the single hose (or the completely inside, no hose types. Parents had one. It worked well, but required filling 2 heavy water tanks ~5 gallons each? Too heavy for mom to easily handle, so it was either me, my brother, or dad. It would cool their bedroom, until the water tank needed to be refilled. Don’t recall how many hours it would run on the 2 tanks, but I think it would last overnight. Yes, it would glug/gurgle as it used the water. Don’t know if they even make this type anymore, but this is the only type that’s pretty convenient to roll to different rooms, as there are no hoses. Just fill, roll, plug in, turn on. ***P.S. it was NOT a swamp cooler/evaporative cooler. It actually blew out cold air, and could get my parents bedroom down to the 60s, even when it was 80-90f outside. Don’t recall the brand (this was back in the early 80s?), or how it worked, but it sounded like a regular a/c unit.). The 2-hose unit I had, didn’t need emptying up here in MI (the moisture is blown out the exhaust hose). Not sure how the humidity compares in your locale. MI summers tend to be hot AND humid, but it’s all relative, and isn’t Louisiana or FL. The downsides vs a window unit, are that they cost quite a bit more for comparable cooling capacity. Anywhere from 150% or more. One large room gets roasted by the summer sun and the HVAC doesn’t do an adequate job. I put an LG dual inverter unit in it last summer, to replace an old non-inverter unit. The LG cools VERY well, and is much more efficient than the old non-inverter window unit (and quieter). It never drew more than ~800w last Summer (14,000BTU unit), where the old one would hit 1,200-1,250w. As far as getting a wheeled unit vs window, so you can roll it to different parts of the house, yeah, even when I had one of the wheeled units, it was never used that way. As someone else mentioned, makes more sense to get a few window units if you need a/c in more than one space, vs trying to roll the window unit around, and setup the hoses in another window. |
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Posted: 4/17/2024 6:13:02 PM EST
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Used one at one time due to central air failure. Needs access to window for intake,goes thru unit and cool air blows out. Pan in bottom needs to be emptied very regularly, worked like a champ. Cooled bedroom very well,left bedroom door open and helped w/ rest of house. This was my experience also, almost exactly. I used one for about a 2 weeks, switching it between 2 rooms daily. Then I got 1 window unit, and quit having to move it. The window units work better, but you can't move them obviously. After about 3 months I got my central heat and air unit replaced. That works even better  .ETA: I think I paid about $300.00 for the portable unit. If it costs more than $500.00, I would suggest going with window units. |
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Posted: 4/17/2024 6:20:18 PM EST
[#6]
We bought one for my daughter's bedroom on the second floor.
Haier, 12000 BTU, single (air) hose, with "Auto Evaporation Technology makes manual draining unnecessary." I assume it uses the hot air from the exchanger to evaporate the water through the exhaust tube. We have casement windows, so the usual insert didn't work. But my daughter's closet has a trap door for attic access. So I drilled a hole in the trap door and bought extra tubing so the A/C unit exhausts into the attic. Attic/roof is quite large (64 square roof), so I doubt the added heat/humidity makes any kind of impact. Bought it in 2016. Still functions flawlessly. Pros: It cools well Moves air well remote control reasonably quiet nothing to drain/spill Cons: The plastic exhaust hose actually gets warm and radiates heat No longer produced, but here it is on A:  
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Posted: 4/17/2024 6:31:31 PM EST
[#7]
They will work. I think the dual tube ones are better for exhaust. Traditional window units are better I think. I have 2 window units and 1 roll around unit for emergency / cooling with generator power.
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Posted: 4/17/2024 6:38:21 PM EST
[#8]
I have 2 window units and actually the roll around unit pictures above, it works great and used a couple times when my AC was down. Never had an issue keeping a large living room area cool in Florida summer.
Window units are 5000 btu and made by Midea, work fantastic and will cool a standard size bedroom with no issue |
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Posted: 4/17/2024 6:38:56 PM EST
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: We bought one for my daughter's bedroom on the second floor. Haier, 12000 BTU, single (air) hose, with "Auto Evaporation Technology makes manual draining unnecessary." I assume it uses the hot air from the exchanger to evaporate the water through the exhaust tube. We have casement windows, so the usual insert didn't work. But my daughter's closet has a trap door for attic access. So I drilled a hole in the trap door and bought extra tubing so the A/C unit exhausts into the attic. Attic/roof is quite large (64 square roof), so I doubt the added heat/humidity makes any kind of impact. Bought it in 2016. Still functions flawlessly. Pros: It cools well Moves air well remote control reasonably quiet nothing to drain/spill Cons: The plastic exhaust hose actually gets warm and radiates heat No longer produced, but here it is on A: www.amazon.com/dp/B00BDRGE8Q I'd pretty much agree with all that. I've got a $350 amazon special that's a 12k BTU and a similarly priced Home Depot 8K BTU. Auto evaporation or whatever has worked fine on both for 18 months, no drains, water pans, etc, but I'll be damned if the exhaust doesn't radiate some heat. The 12K BTU has no problem taking my 350 sqft insulated office in a metal building to 72 when the ambient temp in the shop is 85. |
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Posted: 4/17/2024 6:45:06 PM EST
[#10]
My Man Cave AC went out. I got a portable 4 years ago as a stand in. I am still using the portable.
They work well and are convenient. They can be loud and are about as effective as window unit. I just need to get a new mini split for my man cave. To control the radiant heat from the exhaust hose, keep the run as short as possible. |
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Posted: 4/17/2024 7:54:53 PM EST
[#11]
I was really looking at the u-shaped window units, I liked the idea since they allow the window to be almost down. Has anyone tried them?
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Posted: 4/17/2024 8:36:12 PM EST
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I was really looking at the u-shaped window units, I liked the idea since they allow the window to be almost down. Has anyone tried them? Yes. Work great. It's a good route for backup AC cooling if something breaks. |
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Posted: 4/18/2024 2:19:15 AM EST
[#13]
In my state it's a tough sell to go all out on AC because we have years where it's only uncomfortable a month or two out of the year.
I have a Delonghi portable and it's a life saver. Bring it out when the weather gets hot and throw it in the bedroom to sleep. Def got our money out of it. |
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Posted: 4/18/2024 9:17:18 AM EST
[#14]
You will probably need three or four units depending on your house layout. Do not expect just one unit to cool the house even if centrally located.
They usually come in 6,000btu and as high as 12,000btu. 6k's are for bedrooms, 12k's are for larger living/dining room areas. Condensate will need to be drained on some units, others they self drain (or burn it off in the condenser section much like a refrigerator does). You can get an idea of how much cooling your home requires by finding the size (post a model # of you unit) of you existing unit. |
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Posted: 4/18/2024 2:49:36 PM EST
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Con: requires constant makeup air. Can you use a few window units? I don't want window units for a few reasons. I may end up with some, but I think I will spend more on those in the long run, for a temporary fix. My reasons for not wanting window units: 1-I hate them. They are the ugliest things that ever get done to houses. I cannot even describe the level of hatred I feel for window a/c units. (This is not a statement about anybody who has them. It's my personal quirk.) 2-My old house has weak window sills/stools that need rebuilt (house was built in 1849. The projects are endless). I don't want to set weight on them. 3-Installing the window units will be a HUGE undertaking because of fitting, sealing around them, etc. I want a quick, easy, throw-money-at-it (but not too much money) and move forward toward the long-term fix. So...I dunno,but I'm trying to avoid that. PLUS...plug-ins are not available near the windows....that means extension cords and more resistance and heavier draw, yadda yadda yadda.
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Posted: 4/18/2024 2:50:23 PM EST
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Used one at one time due to central air failure. Needs access to window for intake,goes thru unit and cool air blows out. Pan in bottom needs to be emptied very regularly, worked like a champ. Cooled bedroom very well,left bedroom door open and helped w/ rest of house. This is good to know. The ones I've looked at have an air outlet vent, but no intake. I may need to look farther. |
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Posted: 4/18/2024 2:52:32 PM EST
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I’ve used one. The 2-hose types that need a window, are more efficient than the single hose (or the completely inside, no hose types. Parents had one. It worked well, but required filling 2 heavy water tanks ~5 gallons each? Too heavy for mom to easily handle, so it was either me, my brother, or dad. It would cool their bedroom, until the water tank needed to be refilled. Don’t recall how many hours it would run on the 2 tanks, but I think it would last overnight. Yes, it would glug/gurgle as it used the water. Don’t know if they even make this type anymore, but this is the only type that’s pretty convenient to roll to different rooms, as there are no hoses. Just fill, roll, plug in, turn on. ***P.S. it was NOT a swamp cooler/evaporative cooler. It actually blew out cold air, and could get my parents bedroom down to the 60s, even when it was 80-90f outside. Don’t recall the brand (this was back in the early 80s?), or how it worked, but it sounded like a regular a/c unit.). The 2-hose unit I had, didn’t need emptying up here in MI (the moisture is blown out the exhaust hose). Not sure how the humidity compares in your locale. MI summers tend to be hot AND humid, but it’s all relative, and isn’t Louisiana or FL. The downsides vs a window unit, are that they cost quite a bit more for comparable cooling capacity. Anywhere from 150% or more. One large room gets roasted by the summer sun and the HVAC doesn’t do an adequate job. I put an LG dual inverter unit in it last summer, to replace an old non-inverter unit. The LG cools VERY well, and is much more efficient than the old non-inverter window unit (and quieter). It never drew more than ~800w last Summer (14,000BTU unit), where the old one would hit 1,200-1,250w. As far as getting a wheeled unit vs window, so you can roll it to different parts of the house, yeah, even when I had one of the wheeled units, it was never used that way. As someone else mentioned, makes more sense to get a few window units if you need a/c in more than one space, vs trying to roll the window unit around, and setup the hoses in another window. Hmmm. I have reasons to hate the window units and not want those, but I may have to make accommodations. |
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Posted: 4/18/2024 2:54:51 PM EST
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: We bought one for my daughter's bedroom on the second floor. Haier, 12000 BTU, single (air) hose, with "Auto Evaporation Technology makes manual draining unnecessary." I assume it uses the hot air from the exchanger to evaporate the water through the exhaust tube. We have casement windows, so the usual insert didn't work. But my daughter's closet has a trap door for attic access. So I drilled a hole in the trap door and bought extra tubing so the A/C unit exhausts into the attic. Attic/roof is quite large (64 square roof), so I doubt the added heat/humidity makes any kind of impact. Bought it in 2016. Still functions flawlessly. Pros: It cools well Moves air well remote control reasonably quiet nothing to drain/spill Cons: The plastic exhaust hose actually gets warm and radiates heat No longer produced, but here it is on A: www.amazon.com/dp/B00BDRGE8Q I've seen that Haier name in some of the reading I've done. A shame they aren't making it now. Do you remember what you paid for it? |
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Posted: 4/18/2024 2:58:47 PM EST
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'd pretty much agree with all that. I've got a $350 amazon special that's a 12k BTU and a similarly priced Home Depot 8K BTU. Auto evaporation or whatever has worked fine on both for 18 months, no drains, water pans, etc, but I'll be damned if the exhaust doesn't radiate some heat. The 12K BTU has no problem taking my 350 sqft insulated office in a metal building to 72 when the ambient temp in the shop is 85. This is good information. If you are able to snap a photo of the brands/models of yours, that would give me a place to start looking. The ones I'm looking at have no water pans. It says, in one mode, that it requires a garden hose, but I don't understand the mode differences yet (cool mode vs dry, etc). I'm thinking about setting it on top of an old dresser right beside a window, to shorten the exhaust feed because lots of people seem to note how much heat the tube gives off. Maybe some insulation around the tube might help that. Hmm...I'll think about that. I do have a high ceiling in the bedroom. (Well...ten feet high anyway) so the bedroom is 17 X 17 but the cubic footage is a little more than a regular 8' ceiling. Still reading. |
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Posted: 4/18/2024 2:59:43 PM EST
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My Man Cave AC went out. I got a portable 4 years ago as a stand in. I am still using the portable. They work well and are convenient. They can be loud and are about as effective as window unit. I just need to get a new mini split for my man cave. To control the radiant heat from the exhaust hose, keep the run as short as possible. @RattleCanAR Is yours one that requires emptying a condensation pan? Or does it burn off the condensate? |
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Posted: 4/18/2024 3:00:06 PM EST
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I was really looking at the u-shaped window units, I liked the idea since they allow the window to be almost down. Has anyone tried them? I've never even heard of those!!!! 
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Posted: 4/18/2024 3:05:21 PM EST
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You will probably need three or four units depending on your house layout. Do not expect just one unit to cool the house even if centrally located. They usually come in 6,000btu and as high as 12,000btu. 6k's are for bedrooms, 12k's are for larger living/dining room areas. Condensate will need to be drained on some units, others they self drain (or burn it off in the condenser section much like a refrigerator does). You can get an idea of how much cooling your home requires by finding the size (post a model # of you unit) of you existing unit. Do you mean the tonnage of my existing Heatpak A/C unit? If so, it's 3.5 tons. HOWEVER, I wasn't planning to cool the entire house. I might, however, consider cooling our little kitchen/dining area in addition to the bedroom. That would absolutely require two units. I don't need the kitchen area to be as cool as uxb needs the bedroom, in order to sleep. I also sleep better in a cool room of course, but I didn't grow up with A/C, and I work outside, so I'm more adapted to the heat than he is. He does not do well in the heat. No idea how he managed in Central America all those years ago, but we were young then. 
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Posted: 4/18/2024 3:06:40 PM EST
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have 2 window units and actually the roll around unit pictures above, it works great and used a couple times when my AC was down. Never had an issue keeping a large living room area cool in Florida summer. Window units are 5000 btu and made by Midea, work fantastic and will cool a standard size bedroom with no issue So you use the window units normally, and have the rolling unit for when they go down? (Sorry...I'm not clear on whether these are all backup, or the window units are your normal.) |
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Posted: 4/18/2024 3:16:05 PM EST
[#24]
This is a short term "temporary" fix right? I would strongly suggest the window units if you can make them fit.
Did you understand what I meant by makeup air? You'll be continuously exhausting air you already cooled. Only to then draw more hot, potentially humid air inside to replace it. For me that's the biggest disadvantage of those units. |
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Posted: 4/18/2024 3:43:04 PM EST
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This is a short term "temporary" fix right? I would strongly suggest the window units if you can make them fit. Did you understand what I meant by makeup air? You'll be continuously exhausting air you already cooled. Only to then draw more hot, potentially humid air inside to replace it. For me that's the biggest disadvantage of those units. I agree. And you'll likely be pulling that hot outside air into another section of the house and you'll be pissed when you walk into that area and it is hot as heck. |
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Posted: 4/18/2024 4:08:02 PM EST
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @RattleCanAR Is yours one that requires emptying a condensation pan? Or does it burn off the condensate? It burns off the condensation. I have opened the drain a couple of times. Less than a .25 cup came out. |
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Posted: 4/18/2024 4:17:39 PM EST
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've seen that Haier name in some of the reading I've done. A shame they aren't making it now. Do you remember what you paid for it? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: We bought one for my daughter's bedroom on the second floor. Haier, 12000 BTU, single (air) hose, with "Auto Evaporation Technology makes manual draining unnecessary." I assume it uses the hot air from the exchanger to evaporate the water through the exhaust tube. We have casement windows, so the usual insert didn't work. But my daughter's closet has a trap door for attic access. So I drilled a hole in the trap door and bought extra tubing so the A/C unit exhausts into the attic. Attic/roof is quite large (64 square roof), so I doubt the added heat/humidity makes any kind of impact. Bought it in 2016. Still functions flawlessly. Pros: It cools well Moves air well remote control reasonably quiet nothing to drain/spill Cons: The plastic exhaust hose actually gets warm and radiates heat No longer produced, but here it is on A: www.amazon.com/dp/B00BDRGE8Q I've seen that Haier name in some of the reading I've done. A shame they aren't making it now. Do you remember what you paid for it? @Kitties-with-Sigs Paid $379 back in 2016. So, that's what, like $1200 nowadays?  I don't know why they stopped making them. Maybe because of the stupid regulations regarding refrigerants? |
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Posted: 4/18/2024 4:57:36 PM EST
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @Kitties-with-Sigs Paid $379 back in 2016. So, that's what, like $1200 nowadays? I don't know why they stopped making them. Maybe because of the stupid regulations regarding refrigerants? Oh yeah, that would be an expensive one. Apparently they last well though, because I see a lot of folks still using them. The refrigerant thing is asinine. Every time they do something to "fix" the harm to the environment, they make it worse. |
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Posted: 4/18/2024 4:59:28 PM EST
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This is a short term "temporary" fix right? I would strongly suggest the window units if you can make them fit. Did you understand what I meant by makeup air? You'll be continuously exhausting air you already cooled. Only to then draw more hot, potentially humid air inside to replace it. For me that's the biggest disadvantage of those units. I do understand makeup air. However, any unit, even a central unit, is going to pull from outside in this house. It was built in 1849. Nothing about it is efficient, and likely never will be, even with a lot of effort. However I will take that into account. Some of these units seem to have an intake hose AND a vent hose. I will consider all of this. |
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Posted: 4/18/2024 5:01:42 PM EST
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This is a short term "temporary" fix right? I would strongly suggest the window units if you can make them fit. Did you understand what I meant by makeup air? You'll be continuously exhausting air you already cooled. Only to then draw more hot, potentially humid air inside to replace it. For me that's the biggest disadvantage of those units. This. I find the indoor "portable" ac units to be a cumbersome PITA with unsightly and unpleasant ducting hose systems, that will leak temperature along their path. A window unit takes no footprint and dumps all the heat outside. A U-shaped one does so with an air-gap divider in a mostly closed window, so the noise and such are behind the mostly closed window. And condensate isn't your problem, it drips that ouside, so you don't have to collect and dispose or otherwise get rid of that yourself either. If you're in a setting where the external appearance of such is unsightly, I guess that's too bad. But if it's a back-yard window or otherwise you just DGAF, window unit is far better the way to go. And cheap. And if you don't like the look, close the windowshade. |
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Posted: 4/18/2024 5:01:45 PM EST
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It burns off the condensation. I have opened the drain a couple of times. Less than a .25 cup came out. Okay that's the same as what I was looking at. And while we are really humid here, we aren't as humid as you guys in SC, so that makes me feel better about the humidity overwhelming the ability to burn it off. |
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Posted: 4/18/2024 5:03:06 PM EST
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This. I find the indoor "portable" ac units to be a cumbersome PITA with unsightly and unpleasant ducting hose systems, that will leak temperature along their path. A window unit takes no footprint and dumps all the heat outside. A U-shaped one does so with an air-gap divider in a mostly closed window, so the noise and such are behind the mostly closed window. If you're in a setting where the external appearance of such is unsightly, I guess that's too bad. But if it's a back-yard window or otherwise you just DGAF, window unit is far better the way to go. And cheap. And if you don't like the look, close the windowshade. I will look at the window units and see if I can make one work. |
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Posted: 4/18/2024 6:11:58 PM EST
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I don't want window units for a few reasons. I may end up with some, but I think I will spend more on those in the long run, for a temporary fix. My reasons for not wanting window units: 1-I hate them. They are the ugliest things that ever get done to houses. I cannot even describe the level of hatred I feel for window a/c units. (This is not a statement about anybody who has them. It's my personal quirk.) 2-My old house has weak window sills/stools that need rebuilt (house was built in 1849. The projects are endless). I don't want to set weight on them. 3-Installing the window units will be a HUGE undertaking because of fitting, sealing around them, etc. I want a quick, easy, throw-money-at-it (but not too much money) and move forward toward the long-term fix. So...I dunno,but I'm trying to avoid that. PLUS...plug-ins are not available near the windows....that means extension cords and more resistance and heavier draw, yadda yadda yadda. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Con: requires constant makeup air. Can you use a few window units? I don't want window units for a few reasons. I may end up with some, but I think I will spend more on those in the long run, for a temporary fix. My reasons for not wanting window units: 1-I hate them. They are the ugliest things that ever get done to houses. I cannot even describe the level of hatred I feel for window a/c units. (This is not a statement about anybody who has them. It's my personal quirk.) 2-My old house has weak window sills/stools that need rebuilt (house was built in 1849. The projects are endless). I don't want to set weight on them. 3-Installing the window units will be a HUGE undertaking because of fitting, sealing around them, etc. I want a quick, easy, throw-money-at-it (but not too much money) and move forward toward the long-term fix. So...I dunno,but I'm trying to avoid that. PLUS...plug-ins are not available near the windows....that means extension cords and more resistance and heavier draw, yadda yadda yadda.  Well it needs to be vented out a window, unless you’re going to make a small hole ?Some need a drain for water condensate, but most of the modern ones evaporate water out the exhaust. They work good for one or two rooms. The draw isnt too bad on the small units. A super heavy duty extension cord should be gtg, although I would monitor the heat. Have you looked into Mini splits? That’s what you really want. |
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Posted: 4/20/2024 2:06:55 PM EST
[#34]
Friend of mine used one as a temp fix for one of his rentals. It did not fit the window great and has to be emptied often. I think a window unit is a better solution.
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Posted: 4/20/2024 2:18:03 PM EST
[#35]
I have one, used it in Ohio, it doesnt collect much condensation. Ive run it 24 hours it doesnt really show up on my electric bill. Put it in a back bedroom and a fan with it to help the rest of the house.
It cools that room and pushes into the hallway. Its not ice ice cold, but you feel it making a difference. Would buy again. I wanted another one in my living room area but dont have an exhaust area for it. |
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Posted: 4/20/2024 5:46:28 PM EST
[#36]
I was thinking that in a pinch I could use my dryer vent with a portable. Would that work?
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Posted: 4/20/2024 5:53:21 PM EST
[#37]
They are loud and really not great. They do work but in nearly every situation you are better off with an inverter window unit. The only time they actually make sense is for very temporary use where you don't want to mess with installing a window unit.
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Posted: 4/21/2024 2:34:33 PM EST
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Well it needs to be vented out a window, unless you’re going to make a small hole ?Some need a drain for water condensate, but most of the modern ones evaporate water out the exhaust. They work good for one or two rooms. The draw isnt too bad on the small units. A super heavy duty extension cord should be gtg, although I would monitor the heat. Have you looked into Mini splits? That’s what you really want. The rolling units have to be vented out a window, but that hose doesn't have weight to it. It's just an insert that fits in a 7" tall space at the bottom of the window, with an orifice for the exhaust hose (which looks to me like it's nothing more than dryer vent, but I haven't seen it in person.) I have looked a lot at mini splits. But I'm getting a new whole-house HVAC system installed. I don't see any reason to put in mini splits for a temporary situation.  |
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Posted: 4/21/2024 2:47:21 PM EST
[#39]
Iv got a lower tier one, black and decker of all things. Cools my 1 car garage to 80 degrees in summer, or it would be 90+. Garage is insulated , but not the big door so it struggles. It is super cheap to run. Like 4 bucks a month at maybe 40% run time.
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Posted: 4/21/2024 2:49:29 PM EST
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I was thinking that in a pinch I could use my dryer vent with a portable. Would that work? Yes, for the single hose versions. I personally prefer the dual hose versions. The window vent they include, isn’t difficult to install in a window (especially if someone isn’t strong enough to manhandle a window unit into a window, or want to potentially have to do some drilling to properly/safely install a window unit, depending on the window and windowsill). |
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Posted: 4/21/2024 2:51:29 PM EST
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I was thinking that in a pinch I could use my dryer vent with a portable. Would that work? I don't know your setup, but my dryer is vented through the floor and the crawl space, and it's insanely difficult to get to that vent. Even if it was vented through the back or side of the dryer, unless there's a lot of space on that side, the dryer would have to be moved. |
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Posted: 4/21/2024 3:36:17 PM EST
[#42]
Re: the window units....
I could certainly live with ugly for a bit if it makes a lot of sense. I'm not trying to be argumentative. I don't wanna do something stupid if the rolling A/C units aren't suitable. I keep hearing in this thread that "the window units are cheaper, quieter, and better." But they don't appear significantly cheaper, and the dB level is higher than the rolling unit at a similar price point. The weight is about the same, but...no wheels on the window unit. I just googled the smallest window unit for my square footage. Only one example cuz too much is going on right now but... *It looks like, basically, I'm going to pay about $100 per 100 square feet for a window unit, so $300 for me for the bedroom (10 foot ceilings so I really can't cheat). *Maybe a heavy duty 12/3 extension cord (not cheap) but maybe have to do this with the rolling unit depending on placement. *A window bracket is necessary (which may or may not work on my 180-year-old window since I don't have sheathing below it--only poplar clapboards and aluminum siding) *the window stool may support that 60 lb object (or it may not, depending on how gently I set it in the window) I've gotta heft it into the window, build some kind of filler adjustment thingy around it and try to seal all that (this means working with a storm window as well--I am NOT cutting that for a temporary solution), then in two or three months, I've gotta uninstall all that and heft the unit out again when (hopefully) the new HVAC is installed and I no longer need it. MAYBE I could get a piece of 3/4" plywood, cut it to fit and somehow attach it to the window stool and mount it so it would support the outside and inside weight, without drilling into the old poplar and walnut window stool (ain't doing that either) **So then it seems like I've got this 60 lb brick that will set on a shelf in the shed/garage and rust up and collect dust and spiders until I either sell it for next to nothing or give it away (easier to just do that). Not that the rolling unit will be so much easier to store, but it seems a little more versatile...like if I want to work on equipment in the garage/shed, and it's 110 degrees in there, maybe I could hook this rolling unit up and life could be a bit easier for a few hours out there. If I want to clean around it I can move it cuz....wheels. It seem like for about the same money or maybe just a tiny bit more, I can get a unit that I can unpack, roll around to the most advantageous location, stick a plastic hose out a window (with a half hour of work to fit the insert) and cool the bedroom. To cool 450 square feet (more than the 300 I need to cool) the rolling unit is @ $350. I truly want to understand why the window units are better. Maybe what I'm looking at is not the right comparison? I dunno. |
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Posted: 4/21/2024 4:43:23 PM EST
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Re: the window units.... I could certainly live with ugly for a bit if it makes a lot of sense. I'm not trying to be argumentative. I don't wanna do something stupid if the rolling A/C units aren't suitable. I keep hearing in this thread that "the window units are cheaper, quieter, and better." But they don't appear significantly cheaper, and the dB level is higher than the rolling unit at a similar price point. The weight is about the same, but...no wheels on the window unit. I just googled the smallest window unit for my square footage. Only one example cuz too much is going on right now but... *It looks like, basically, I'm going to pay about $100 per 100 square feet for a window unit, so $300 for me for the bedroom (10 foot ceilings so I really can't cheat). *Maybe a heavy duty 12/3 extension cord (not cheap) but maybe have to do this with the rolling unit depending on placement. *A window bracket is necessary (which may or may not work on my 180-year-old window since I don't have sheathing below it--only poplar clapboards and aluminum siding) *the window stool may support that 60 lb object (or it may not, depending on how gently I set it in the window) I've gotta heft it into the window, build some kind of filler adjustment thingy around it and try to seal all that (this means working with a storm window as well--I am NOT cutting that for a temporary solution), then in two or three months, I've gotta uninstall all that and heft the unit out again when (hopefully) the new HVAC is installed and I no longer need it. MAYBE I could get a piece of 3/4" plywood, cut it to fit and somehow attach it to the window stool and mount it so it would support the outside and inside weight, without drilling into the old poplar and walnut window stool (ain't doing that either) **So then it seems like I've got this 60 lb brick that will set on a shelf in the shed/garage and rust up and collect dust and spiders until I either sell it for next to nothing or give it away (easier to just do that). Not that the rolling unit will be so much easier to store, but it seems a little more versatile...like if I want to work on equipment in the garage/shed, and it's 110 degrees in there, maybe I could hook this rolling unit up and life could be a bit easier for a few hours out there. If I want to clean around it I can move it cuz....wheels. It seem like for about the same money or maybe just a tiny bit more, I can get a unit that I can unpack, roll around to the most advantageous location, stick a plastic hose out a window (with a half hour of work to fit the insert) and cool the bedroom. To cool 450 square feet (more than the 300 I need to cool) the rolling unit is @ $350. I truly want to understand why the window units are better. Maybe what I'm looking at is not the right comparison? I dunno. Out of curiosity, which window unit and which portable were you comparing? As mentioned, I’ve had 2 portables (both dual hose versions). One is no longer made, but worked decently well for years. The 11,000 BTU rolling unit cost $467 in 2011. The 12,000 BTU window unit cost $307 in 2015, and handily beat the rolling unit in the same large room (25’x15’, baked by the summer sun). The LG 14,000 BTU Dual Inverter unit is even more effective, and can get the room COLD when it’s baking in the sun and 97f ambient ( and was just under $500 when I got it last year). ~$30 more than the 11,000BTU rolling unit from 12 years ago, but not only much more effective, it’s also much more efficient in the same room (the dual inverter tech has a soft start, which allows it to startup and run, even on smaller generators. All last summer, the power datalogger it’s plugged into never saw a draw over about 800w, despite last summer being abnormally hot), plus has all the newfangled stuff, eg. WiFi connectivity etc. I can literally check the room’s temperature through the app when we’re out of town, and turn the A/C on remotely, so it’s at the desired temperature when we get home, or set timers etc. all for less than the inflation difference in the intervening years ?? As mentioned, generally comparing apples to apples (eg. Similar rated units from the same company, with similar features), a rolling unit will cost more. As for the other considerations; Yes, the setup is definitely MUCH easier with the rolling units. Likewise with storage, after you get the new HVAC setup (and having the rolling unit as an emergency hot weather power outage option, coupled with the generator from the other thread). |
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Posted: 4/22/2024 5:33:48 AM EST
[#44]
Watch your local auctions and estate sales.
About every auction in my area window units are being sold for pennies on the dollar. I picked up a lightly used portable AC for our gym in the shop. I vented it outside and the drain line drips into a big jug. EVAP water gets used to water some of our fruit trees and bushes. The portable unit helps knock the temperature down a bit. Semper Fi |
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Posted: 4/22/2024 5:38:18 AM EST
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I was really looking at the u-shaped window units, I liked the idea since they allow the window to be almost down. Has anyone tried them? I've got a 12K Midea sitting in my amazon shopping cart. They're rated well. I'll probably buy it next month or maybe June when I not spending money on frivolous stuff like furniture and guns. |
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Posted: 4/22/2024 5:52:47 AM EST
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yes. Work great. It's a good route for backup AC cooling if something breaks. Like the Grid? We kept two to have "cool caves" by running on a generator for Storm / Hurricane situations after Hurricane IKE. They were priceless as our electricity (& thus whole house A/C) was out for over 20 days. Having a room(s) with A/C can make recovery in a hurricane situation much better, especially if you have a family member medically susceptible to heat & humidity. Bigger_Hammer 
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Posted: 4/22/2024 6:06:57 AM EST
[#47]
We keep one around for backup in case of power outages or hvac issues. We also have one at our farmhouse to supplement the air in one bedroom.
A window unit is more efficient, but portable will cool a bedroom. The portable unit is constantly blowing air out the window, so it's pulling more unconditioned air into the room. It also radiates more heat into the room you're trying to cool. We've had varied results on condensation depending on the unit. I'm not sure if some have less water output by design (more evaporating and discharging through the window vent) or if the ones with higher output are better dehumidifiers. The one we have now puts out a surprising amount of water. All this said, if it's a temp solution that won't stay in place when your central air is fixed, I'd get a portable so you can put in a closet or shed when not in use. Mine comes out around once a year on average, but it's worth its weight in gold when we need it. We've bought the cheapest high but units we could find at Sam's or Amazon warehouse. |
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Posted: 4/22/2024 2:07:13 PM EST
[#48]
We have a magnavox 12000 btu single hose type. No pan to empty. It works ok. My biggest complaint is that it's really loud, so we only use it when necessary.
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Posted: 4/26/2024 1:42:35 PM EST
[#49]
Imo, a good window unit is far more efficient, both in energy use as well as purchase price per btu of cooling.
I went with an 8000 btu LG window unit for my reloading room (300sf) to keep everything climate controlled. Of course, they're a bit of an eyesore and they do pose something of a fire hazard if you neglect periodic maintenance on them. But the hazard can be mitigated and in my case the eyesore doesn't really matter (old spare building) Ymmv If you absolutely have to do a portable, keep the unit as close to the window as possible and shorten the hose as much as you can. |
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Posted: 4/26/2024 9:21:06 PM EST
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Out of curiosity, which window unit and which portable were you comparing? As mentioned, I’ve had 2 portables (both dual hose versions). One is no longer made, but worked decently well for years. The 11,000 BTU rolling unit cost $467 in 2011. The 12,000 BTU window unit cost $307 in 2015, and handily beat the rolling unit in the same large room (25’x15’, baked by the summer sun). The LG 14,000 BTU Dual Inverter unit is even more effective, and can get the room COLD when it’s baking in the sun and 97f ambient ( and was just under $500 when I got it last year). ~$30 more than the 11,000BTU rolling unit from 12 years ago, but not only much more effective, it’s also much more efficient in the same room (the dual inverter tech has a soft start, which allows it to startup and run, even on smaller generators. All last summer, the power datalogger it’s plugged into never saw a draw over about 800w, despite last summer being abnormally hot), plus has all the newfangled stuff, eg. WiFi connectivity etc. I can literally check the room’s temperature through the app when we’re out of town, and turn the A/C on remotely, so it’s at the desired temperature when we get home, or set timers etc. all for less than the inflation difference in the intervening years ?? As mentioned, generally comparing apples to apples (eg. Similar rated units from the same company, with similar features), a rolling unit will cost more. As for the other considerations; Yes, the setup is definitely MUCH easier with the rolling units. Likewise with storage, after you get the new HVAC setup (and having the rolling unit as an emergency hot weather power outage option, coupled with the generator from the other thread). I will absolutely give you what I've been looking at. It may be Monday though. Not ignoring the request, just life going on. Thank you for this post, and for helping! 
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