User Panel
Quoted: I did all of those things except the hotel room, again, had no problems. This was in 2009. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: That works perfectly until you decide to go into a restaurant, go sight-seeing, or treat yourself to a hotel room. The 5' of garage space or an enclosed deck, would be perfect, IMO. I did all of those things except the hotel room, again, had no problems. This was in 2009. I haven't had a problem since 1990 when a cooler was stolen from my campsite sitting just outside my tent. Still don't trust people. I get where you're coming from. Really do. But even with today's fire codes, proper building materials, and my average intelligence used to not let fires start in or around my home - I'm still insured if a fire ever breaks out. I've been a homeowner for thirty years now and not even close to having a fire break out - so far. Sorry for the hyjack OP. Your project is cool and I see myself doing the same thing with an 18'-20' enclosed trailer once my toy hauler shoots craps. |
|
Oak cabinetry is a lot of weight. How are you going to keep the drawers from opening?
|
|
Smaller, but looks interesting:
His fabulous studio apartment is hidden inside a work truck! |
|
I didn't realize bus roofs were insulated like that.
Nice job, looking forward to the updates! |
|
|
Quoted: It's not super heavy, it's easily movable with one person without the drawers installed, so I figure it'll balance out the weight of the water and motorcycles in the back behind the rear axle. ;) I was thinking something like one of these to try to keep the cabinets closed: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51VXEwgVoeL._AC_SL1000_.jpg https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61FJQ9qf9IL._AC_SL1300_.jpg It doesn't need much, the slides are the fancy soft-close with a little bit of resistance upon opening too. I think the detent might be adjustable with a pair of pliers or hammer, so I'll play with that before I buy any new hardware. I'm not sure what you mean, it was just fiberglass when delivered to the school district, I put the reflectrix on it. View Quote Magnets probably won’t stop the drawers from popping out, a couple of good bumps or sliding items banging against the drawer face and they’ll bang open. Push button latches may be a much better option. |
|
Nice, man. How much weight are you adding to the chassis w/ all the wood & batteries?
|
|
No idea until I get done. Fully stripped out the bus weighed 15,080 lbs.
I will be happy if I'm sitting somewhere under 20k when finished, which seems totally do-able. |
|
Very impressive results.
Are you keeping the external color scheme? |
|
|
Looking good.
I'd put some sort of anchor on the ends of the panels to keep them from flexing while driving. A good cross wind could try pulling them off. |
|
Quoted: See, I considered painting the exterior, but I decided I really don't want to paint another car a few years ago, and a bus is like 5 cars worth of painting. So, yeah, it's gonna stay. I might paint the rub-rails black to give it some contrast, but I'm probably leaving the thicc blue stripe unless I'm forced to remove it. I'm not sure what you mean? They're anchored to the strut in 4 places. I'll probably use some aircraft cable to tether them further to the strut. More progress... Kinda. I painted the bulkhead black, and painted the radio holder white, and then painted the cable chase white too. It looks OK, but I still might do something else eventually. I'd like to build them out of wood. https://i.imgur.com/sCoRPwu.png I also got the ceiling panels fully installed and now have to finish framing out the bathroom, adding walls, and building cabinets, beds, etc. I cut up the plywood for the covers of the cable-chase, and I think it's alright looking, even without paint. The wood look is growing on me. Maybe I'll use birch plywood for the walls too, I was originally considering white painted fiberboard. https://i.imgur.com/hDqqHeE.png Back on the power side of things, I can run it with cloudy skies, off and on rain, and just general not-great sun for two days using minimal things (power tools, vacuum, fridge running, listening to music, charging my phone, etc) and not drain the batteries more than about 60%, so I think this will do fine. I'm still going to get a generator so I can stuff 2kw into the battery bank when needed, but I think right now it'll be fine, especially with the way I have it setup to charge when the engine of the bus is running. About water/wastewater, I have a 48gal black tank that I'll be using as a greywater tank ready to go under the bus (on the curb side) when I devise a mounting system, which will catch the sink and shower, and two 30 gal freshwater tanks (mounted under the queen bed on each extreme side) that I'll be using for freshwater. Once I have the bathroom framed up, that'll be the next step, getting plumbing done. The toilet will be a 5.3gal Camco portable toilet, with water reservoir and waste reservoir -- at least until I figure out if I want to go full black tank or not. Shower... I have no idea. I'm thinking I'll build a shower stall into the whole bathroom, making the whole bathroom a "wet bath" and then trying to find a showerpan or making a showepan for it. It looks like showerpans are easily procurable, but I worry about the portable toilet being inside there all the time riding on top of the showerpan. Also, the "little sink" in the bathroom that's been requested, might be interesting to build in, lol. As far as flooring goes, I'm seriously considering a sheet of vinyl roll-out floor. Someone talk me out of this, lol. View Quote Awesome updates. Couple suggestions. Maybe they'll work for you. Maybe not. First, make the ceiling and walls the same 'color'. The absence of contrast gives the illusion that the space is larger than it really is. Second, what if you used truck bed liner in the bathroom? In theory, it would make the flooring and walls completely waterproof and quite durable. Can't you get them in custom colors??? Third, the flooring. I have used this stuff on quite a few projects now with great results. Waterproof laminate. Pretty inexpensive and easy to work with. |
|
Quoted: Awesome updates. Couple suggestions. Maybe they'll work for you. Maybe not. First, make the ceiling and walls the same 'color'. The absence of contrast gives the illusion that the space is larger than it really is. Second, what if you used truck bed liner in the bathroom? In theory, it would make the flooring and walls completely waterproof and quite durable. Can't you get them in custom colors??? Third, the flooring. I have used this stuff on quite a few projects now with great results. Waterproof laminate. Pretty inexpensive and easy to work with. View Quote 1. Yeah, I've considered that. I really like this same plywood, and it's only $23/sheet so I think I'll keep going with it. Good call. 2. I'm thinking I'm going to use those plastic wall panels, cut, glue, and caulk them into whatever shape I need to make it work. I need to buy a test piece, but I can't see a reason I can't use a torch to bend it like other thermoplastics, which might negate the need to cut to make the bends. I've read about people using flex-seal, I can't imagine truck bed liner urethane would be any different -- except for smell. When I did my truck bed it offgassed for months. 3. Flooring, yep. Message heard. I saw this the last time I was in the Homeless Death Spot |
|
I would suggest putting at least some fresh water storage inside the cabin. Makes life much easier in the winter months when you've got no fresh water in the under floor tanks.
|
|
You've got great skills and imagination.
Your project is top-notch my man! Thanks for sharing and - Keep going. |
|
|
thanks for sharing your design, progress, and pictures.
I just found this thread. a few things we learned, though you may have already taken care of it 1) all wiring and ducting make accessible for servicing and pulling new stuff, after you use the rig for a while, you will want to make changes 2) all liquid storage if possible add heater strips so that in the winter they stay above freezing ( 4 season camping) 3) all water pipes stay in insulated areas or along heat ducting 4) all fixtures attached to survive sudden stops, bolt everything down with vigor 5) anything outside, design to mount for survival of 100+ mph winds, oncoming direction, and +60mph in other directions (driving down the road at 60, winds directly in front at 40. 100mph winds 6) place fire extinguishers in ready positions, and in areas where you sleep. if there is a fire, what do you need to escape 7) storing a motorcycle or other gas item inside, be wary of fumes and how to exhaust them. at some point, you will get fumes 8) if you are boon-docking with gas equipment, perhaps mount or include external gas tank or storage locker, with ventilation. 9) include tank monitors for all tanks. there is nothing like being able to read how much water is left, how full is the black water tank, how full is the grey water tank. 10) if you have black tank, include some sort of spray rail to clean out the tank. (or at the least, a black water wash out. basically, a hose attach that will spray the tank down and encourage the sh*t to flow out. include standard drain fitting so you are adaptable to standard rv hookups 11) have a water tank empty port so you can quickly empty the tank when needed for storage, winterizing, flushing, etc. otherwise, it is a lot of pumping out existing water 12) put a accumulator tank on the fresh water pressure line so that when you need water it is not constantly running the water pump. brrr,brr, brr to do anything, or silent to fill a cup or flush the toilet 12a) mount the water pump on an isolation plate. they are annoyingly loud. 13) if you are running during cold weather, get more heat that you think. it is a bummer being cold in the winter 14) leave room for a air conditioning unit on the outside. having a cool interior during the summer is wow 15) webasto makes excellent stoves, heating, equipment. designed for marine use and very durable. 16) insulate the exterior floor below if you are placing the tanks and any liquid lines. plus it will protect the equipment for road rash 17) find a way to mount a couple of exterior, under the bus storage lockers, that lock but you can keep gear in there. a good place to store your black water and external camping gear. 18) buy and install a long retractable rv canopy to put on one side. you will thank me the first big rain storm you are in. 19) install a bathroom vent and fan. or do what you are doing, it looks great. |
|
Quoted: thanks for sharing your design, progress, and pictures. I just found this thread. a few things we learned, though you may have already taken care of it 1) all wiring and ducting make accessible for servicing and pulling new stuff, after you use the rig for a while, you will want to make changes 2) all liquid storage if possible add heater strips so that in the winter they stay above freezing ( 4 season camping) 3) all water pipes stay in insulated areas or along heat ducting 4) all fixtures attached to survive sudden stops, bolt everything down with vigor 5) anything outside, design to mount for survival of 100+ mph winds, oncoming direction, and +60mph in other directions (driving down the road at 60, winds directly in front at 40. 100mph winds 6) place fire extinguishers in ready positions, and in areas where you sleep. if there is a fire, what do you need to escape 7) storing a motorcycle or other gas item inside, be wary of fumes and how to exhaust them. at some point, you will get fumes 8) if you are boon-docking with gas equipment, perhaps mount or include external gas tank or storage locker, with ventilation. 9) include tank monitors for all tanks. there is nothing like being able to read how much water is left, how full is the black water tank, how full is the grey water tank. 10) if you have black tank, include some sort of spray rail to clean out the tank. (or at the least, a black water wash out. basically, a hose attach that will spray the tank down and encourage the sh*t to flow out. include standard drain fitting so you are adaptable to standard rv hookups 11) have a water tank empty port so you can quickly empty the tank when needed for storage, winterizing, flushing, etc. otherwise, it is a lot of pumping out existing water 12) put a accumulator tank on the fresh water pressure line so that when you need water it is not constantly running the water pump. brrr,brr, brr to do anything, or silent to fill a cup or flush the toilet 12a) mount the water pump on an isolation plate. they are annoyingly loud. 13) if you are running during cold weather, get more heat that you think. it is a bummer being cold in the winter 14) leave room for a air conditioning unit on the outside. having a cool interior during the summer is wow 15) webasto makes excellent stoves, heating, equipment. designed for marine use and very durable. 16) insulate the exterior floor below if you are placing the tanks and any liquid lines. plus it will protect the equipment for road rash 17) find a way to mount a couple of exterior, under the bus storage lockers, that lock but you can keep gear in there. a good place to store your black water and external camping gear. 18) buy and install a long retractable rv canopy to put on one side. you will thank me the first big rain storm you are in. 19) install a bathroom vent and fan. or do what you are doing, it looks great. View Quote Those are all great tips. I, for one, don't mind! |
|
Quoted: The wood look is growing on me. Maybe I'll use birch plywood for the walls too, I was originally considering white painted fiberboard. View Quote It it was me, I'd go with wood - endless possibilities there. Seems like white fiberboard would be kind of sterile - Like the inside of an ambulance. |
|
Quoted: thanks for sharing your design, progress, and pictures. I just found this thread. a few things we learned, though you may have already taken care of it 1) all wiring and ducting make accessible for servicing and pulling new stuff, after you use the rig for a while, you will want to make changes 2) all liquid storage if possible add heater strips so that in the winter they stay above freezing ( 4 season camping) 3) all water pipes stay in insulated areas or along heat ducting 4) all fixtures attached to survive sudden stops, bolt everything down with vigor 5) anything outside, design to mount for survival of 100+ mph winds, oncoming direction, and +60mph in other directions (driving down the road at 60, winds directly in front at 40. 100mph winds 6) place fire extinguishers in ready positions, and in areas where you sleep. if there is a fire, what do you need to escape 7) storing a motorcycle or other gas item inside, be wary of fumes and how to exhaust them. at some point, you will get fumes 8) if you are boon-docking with gas equipment, perhaps mount or include external gas tank or storage locker, with ventilation. 9) include tank monitors for all tanks. there is nothing like being able to read how much water is left, how full is the black water tank, how full is the grey water tank. 10) if you have black tank, include some sort of spray rail to clean out the tank. (or at the least, a black water wash out. basically, a hose attach that will spray the tank down and encourage the sh*t to flow out. include standard drain fitting so you are adaptable to standard rv hookups 11) have a water tank empty port so you can quickly empty the tank when needed for storage, winterizing, flushing, etc. otherwise, it is a lot of pumping out existing water 12) put a accumulator tank on the fresh water pressure line so that when you need water it is not constantly running the water pump. brrr,brr, brr to do anything, or silent to fill a cup or flush the toilet 12a) mount the water pump on an isolation plate. they are annoyingly loud. 13) if you are running during cold weather, get more heat that you think. it is a bummer being cold in the winter 14) leave room for a air conditioning unit on the outside. having a cool interior during the summer is wow 15) webasto makes excellent stoves, heating, equipment. designed for marine use and very durable. 16) insulate the exterior floor below if you are placing the tanks and any liquid lines. plus it will protect the equipment for road rash 17) find a way to mount a couple of exterior, under the bus storage lockers, that lock but you can keep gear in there. a good place to store your black water and external camping gear. 18) buy and install a long retractable rv canopy to put on one side. you will thank me the first big rain storm you are in. 19) install a bathroom vent and fan. or do what you are doing, it looks great. View Quote Thank you. I've done a lot of these and the ones I haven't have given me some food for thought. I appreciate it. |
|
|
Yep, I used those dimensions as the minimum. The bunks are 75" long by 30" wide, by 22" tall.
|
|
Just read through the whole thread- looking good. I keep thinking about the same thing, but they're more practical on the west side of the country. I've got a couple of acquaintances that own them, a couple live in them (I used to belong to a VW camper club and travel with some eclectic types). One of the things I've heard all of them say is that the single pane windows suck, also have a way to make the interior private, even if it's as simple as a curtain behind the driver's seat/front entry area. Insulation and ventilation are extremely important, especially if you plan to use it in cold or hot areas. You can also convert them to 4wd if you want; great for ski bums and such (one of the people I know that owns one works all summer as a carpenter, then skis all winter).
|
|
Can you also do us a favor, and measure your wheel humps? LxWxH, as well as the space between the wheel humps (aisle width)?
|
|
|
Quoted: Just an FYI - some of them don't have wheel humps on the inside. Maybe that is just the newer ones though. View Quote Yeah, I was only thinking in terms of older buses. My little research so far seems to show that newer buses are WAY more expensive, which I personally couldn't justify for a "fun" project. As for the older buses, I do see people all over YT building them with sub-floors and a couple inches of insulation, but most still have to work around the hump, somehow. The specific reason I asked though was that I was playing with the idea of using a pick-up truck bed tank, like this one: https://www.ntotank.com/305gallon-acerotomold-white-pickup-truck-bed-tank-x3094944 which is a lot of water, but it would be great for boondocking, and you don't have to fill it up and haul it around full all the time. I also thought about using 4-5 much cheaper 55gal plastic barrels, and then plumbing them in such a way that they could each be isolated for cleaning or whenever you just need less water. But I just want to get an idea what's possible first (for example, any truck bed tank has to fit through the door, unless you plan on doing a roof raise and never taking it out ever again)! |
|
Quoted: Yeah, I was only thinking in terms of older buses. My little research so far seems to show that newer buses are WAY more expensive, which I personally couldn't justify for a "fun" project. As for the older buses, I do see people all over YT building them with sub-floors and a couple inches of insulation, but most still have to work around the hump, somehow. The specific reason I asked though was that I was playing with the idea of using a pick-up truck bed tank, like this one: https://www.ntotank.com/305gallon-acerotomold-white-pickup-truck-bed-tank-x3094944 which is a lot of water, but it would be great for boondocking, and you don't have to fill it up and haul it around full all the time. I also thought about using 4-5 much cheaper 55gal plastic barrels, and then plumbing them in such a way that they could each be isolated for cleaning or whenever you just need less water. But I just want to get an idea what's possible first (for example, any truck bed tank has to fit through the door, unless you plan on doing a roof raise and never taking it out ever again)! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Just an FYI - some of them don't have wheel humps on the inside. Maybe that is just the newer ones though. Yeah, I was only thinking in terms of older buses. My little research so far seems to show that newer buses are WAY more expensive, which I personally couldn't justify for a "fun" project. As for the older buses, I do see people all over YT building them with sub-floors and a couple inches of insulation, but most still have to work around the hump, somehow. The specific reason I asked though was that I was playing with the idea of using a pick-up truck bed tank, like this one: https://www.ntotank.com/305gallon-acerotomold-white-pickup-truck-bed-tank-x3094944 which is a lot of water, but it would be great for boondocking, and you don't have to fill it up and haul it around full all the time. I also thought about using 4-5 much cheaper 55gal plastic barrels, and then plumbing them in such a way that they could each be isolated for cleaning or whenever you just need less water. But I just want to get an idea what's possible first (for example, any truck bed tank has to fit through the door, unless you plan on doing a roof raise and never taking it out ever again)! You MAY be able to do away with the humps or maybe put some shorter/smaller ones since you would have to put a LOT of weight in/on the bus to get it to squat enough to need all of the wheel well space. I'll see if I can get a look at some newer ones to see how much clearance they have. |
|
The wheel wells are 26" wide, 39" long, and 9" tall. For some reason I actually had that dimension written down on some scrap paper.
Some people do CRAZY things like just chopping them out and laying flat sheet metal down. I don't think I could do that without constantly worrying about rubbing. |
|
Sorry updates have been slow. I've been working like a dog the past couple weeks, and we've really just used the bus as a portable toilet when we go out and do things for a whole day. So, like, going to a day-long festival, going out shopping and doing things with the kiddo, etc.
I put up another wall and panel, and got some lighting installed, I still have to put in the 3" LED flush-mount lights. The LED strips are controlled with an RF remote, and there's another strip going in the bathroom, and I'll have a separately controlled one in my daughter's bunk. I finally finished tinting all the windows, and it makes a pretty big difference in how the bus looks and how it "feels" inside. We bought some fabric to make curtains out of, and that'll further change the feel (and sound) inside. Speaking of sound... I got tired of people ignoring the horn when I use it to tell them "Please don't pull out in front of me, this won't be a payday, I have good insurance, a dash cam, and telemetry on this bus." and I'm also tired of people not feeling bad after they pull out in front of me and slam on the brakes, only to see how quickly a vehicle designed to be 10,000lbs heavier can stop on a dime. So... Sound here: https://imgur.com/wqMQnFd |
|
Quoted: The wheel wells are 26" wide, 39" long, and 9" tall. For some reason I actually had that dimension written down on some scrap paper. Some people do CRAZY things like just chopping them out and laying flat sheet metal down. I don't think I could do that without constantly worrying about rubbing. View Quote And the space between them? Also, thanks! |
|
Quoted: Sorry updates have been slow. I've been working like a dog the past couple weeks, and we've really just used the bus as a portable toilet when we go out and do things for a whole day. So, like, going to a day-long festival, going out shopping and doing things with the kiddo, etc. https://i.imgur.com/9b0cEPi.png https://i.imgur.com/lDcsunn.png I put up another wall and panel, and got some lighting installed, I still have to put in the 3" LED flush-mount lights. The LED strips are controlled with an RF remote, and there's another strip going in the bathroom, and I'll have a separately controlled one in my daughter's bunk. https://i.imgur.com/eQJY293.png https://i.imgur.com/gvDSScW.png https://i.imgur.com/rJm507b.png I finally finished tinting all the windows, and it makes a pretty big difference in how the bus looks and how it "feels" inside. We bought some fabric to make curtains out of, and that'll further change the feel (and sound) inside. Speaking of sound... I got tired of people ignoring the horn when I use it to tell them "Please don't pull out in front of me, this won't be a payday, I have good insurance, a dash cam, and telemetry on this bus." and I'm also tired of people not feeling bad after they pull out in front of me and slam on the brakes, only to see how quickly a vehicle designed to be 10,000lbs heavier can stop on a dime. So... https://i.imgur.com/tYn2l6c.png Sound here: https://imgur.com/wqMQnFd View Quote Bravo Zulu. |
|
Quoted: Sorry updates have been slow. I've been working like a dog the past couple weeks, and we've really just used the bus as a portable toilet when we go out and do things for a whole day. So, like, going to a day-long festival, going out shopping and doing things with the kiddo, etc. https://i.imgur.com/9b0cEPi.png https://i.imgur.com/lDcsunn.png I put up another wall and panel, and got some lighting installed, I still have to put in the 3" LED flush-mount lights. The LED strips are controlled with an RF remote, and there's another strip going in the bathroom, and I'll have a separately controlled one in my daughter's bunk. https://i.imgur.com/eQJY293.png https://i.imgur.com/gvDSScW.png https://i.imgur.com/rJm507b.png I finally finished tinting all the windows, and it makes a pretty big difference in how the bus looks and how it "feels" inside. We bought some fabric to make curtains out of, and that'll further change the feel (and sound) inside. Speaking of sound... I got tired of people ignoring the horn when I use it to tell them "Please don't pull out in front of me, this won't be a payday, I have good insurance, a dash cam, and telemetry on this bus." and I'm also tired of people not feeling bad after they pull out in front of me and slam on the brakes, only to see how quickly a vehicle designed to be 10,000lbs heavier can stop on a dime. So... https://i.imgur.com/tYn2l6c.png Sound here: https://imgur.com/wqMQnFd View Quote Haha, that train horn is great! |
|
View Quote Looking forward to seeing OP's finished product. Looks like you're doing a darn nice job. |
|
Quoted: That guy did a fantastic job. One of the best home built setups I've seen. Looking forward to seeing OP's finished product. Looks like you're doing a darn nice job. View Quote That guy has SUPER specific requirements, most of which I don't have. But agreed, he did an excellent job. His thought to make it blend in really show his attention to detail. |
|
|
Do they make a ‘cover’ for that sized roof vent?
It keeps the rain out even when open. They’re usually equipped with screens to keep the bugs away as well. |
|
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.