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3/27/2016 3:46:18 PM EDT
I traded for some 1 fired Laupua brass and after running them through my FL resizer and other prep couldn't get my bolt action to close on empty brass.  Checking the measurements didn't work as they measured identical to my winchester brass.  Finally I changed my resizing die (Redding) to where it barely touched the ram on the upswing and pushed the shoulders back.  This allowed for minor resistance closing but I still have a very hard lift and ejection.   Any suggestions?
3/27/2016 4:16:30 PM EDT
[#1]
Some questions to see if we can sort this out.

Are we discussing .223 or some other cartridge?

Your first attempt at FL size was with what die and how did you adjust? Are you using the correct shell holder? Generally, FL dies are designed to close down on the shell holder to hit a design tolerance, unless otherwise noted.

Did you "cam-over" at the end of the press stroke when you tried the first time? Did you use a little size lube?

When you say you measured, was that with something that is a comparative gage, or something that reads in inches? Were you measuring to the shoulder datum?

When you set up with a Redding die, you would have to be measuring the headspace and very carefully adjusting till you had at least 0.001" bump from your specific chamber needs. Otherwise, you would typically just cam-over and let the size be done by the design of the die. This procedure should have a low probability of trouble in terms of chambering.

When you have the tools to measure your shoulder datum against the headspace of your chamber, you can size just enough to avoid over working the brass. However, it isn't clear if you have the headspace requirements worked out yet. Lets go one step at a time and see if we can sort you out.

3/27/2016 9:12:43 PM EDT
[#2]
Using different brand shell holders compared to your dies can cause tolerance stacking.

Turn the die down more, i.e. clockwise, 1/16th turn increments until the bolt closes on the resized brass without resistance.

If that doesn't work remove metal from the top of the shell holder. Use your calipers, then sand the top .001" at a time until you get enough shoulder set-back to close the bolt.
3/28/2016 5:24:28 AM EDT
[#3]
Sorry for the delay.  This is for .308.  When I first set up my Redding FL die I did not cam over as you described.   I did not have this issue with my winchester brass so I didn't think about it till I went back to basics the second resizing. I screwed the die down to within a hair of touching unloaded which gives me less than a dimes thickness between the shell holder and bottom of the die when loaded.  (Cam over?)  The bolt closes on the Laupua brass with slight resistance but the opening is stiff resistance.  I measured using a diital caliper.

My prep consists of cleaning and cutting consistent primer pockets.  Trimming the brass to 2.05, chamfering inside and outside the necks.  Annealing the cases. Lubing them and the resizing.  My cases get just a Wilson neck die with a .332 bushing and then primed and loaded. I rarely use my FL die with my winchester brass.  BUT I did with this new to me brass.  

Thanks
3/28/2016 3:53:25 PM EDT
[#4]
For the same 308 brass you speak of,

Lapua is significantly thicker walked than Winchester
I have found that if I have my FL die set to 'Winchester', it does not bump the Lapua shoulders back far enough.
Opposite of that... if I'm bumping Lapuas back .001, that same die adjustment will bump the Winchesters back .004-.005 (which is too far for what I'm doing)
So, I have individual index marks that I reference when sizing those two brands, and check regularly (comparator)
Since I float my dies on O-rings, it just means threading it in our out a bit for the respective brass.

Just my own observations and results, with the equipment I'm using.  
I'd suspect you are seeing similar
3/28/2016 5:56:19 PM EDT
[#5]
Cool that is exactly what I am using.  My biggest issue is now the extraction issue.  

Thanks
3/30/2016 7:31:05 PM EDT
[#6]
It sounds like you just didn't bump down enough.

If you like specific control, look into a body die. You can bump the shoulder just enough to get reliable function, then neck size only with either your bushing die or the Lee Collet Die.

If you keep your batches separated, and keep the neck wall thickness the same, you can then just manage your batches by cycle count and annealing.

First try to nail down that shoulder datum length that allows the bolt to close without pressure. Then learn to use incremental shell holders or die adjustments to control that dimension.

I like to have the body die cam over and I use the incremental shell holders to control the shoulder bump. Then I neck size. The collet die minimizes the trimming requirements.