Posted: 12/1/2014 3:40:46 AM EDT
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Guys,
This is my set up: Rem 700 LTR Vortex Viper 6-24X50 (30mm tube) Leupold medium rings 30mm I made sure my rifle was level and locked into place. Put the scope on and tightened the rings a bit. Then I put my small bubble level on the top of the scope and made the scope perfectly level. The problem comes when I begin to tighten the screws on the rings. No matter how slowly I do it or even if I do one turn per screw till they're all tight, the scope ends up tilting on me. Thoughts? |
| Well first thing I would do is after you level the rifle use a plum bob to level your scope. If your scope rotates even when you do 1/4 turns on opposite screws then I would just hold the scope still until you get it tight enough where it won't rotate. Shouldn't take anymore than a few turns. |
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Rings should be properly torqued to the base before mounting the ring caps. You can tighten them with the scope in them after you set eye relief.
As to tightening ring caps, leave the level on the elevation cap and only tighten two screw, one on each side, of the rear ring cap. A little on each side watching the level and going back and forth keeping the scope level. Then when they are torqued down the scope is held tight and you can install the front ring cap with all the screws as the scope won't rotate now. Then go back to the rear cap and loosen the two screws and install all four. Been doing it that way for years and many scopes. Works fine. Then when going to range to do tracking test check scope level on a plumb bob or as i do make my tracking chart perfectly vertical so I use that to check level. |
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Quoted:
Guys, This is my set up: Rem 700 LTR Vortex Viper 6-24X50 (30mm tube) Leupold medium rings 30mm I made sure my rifle was level and locked into place. Put the scope on and tightened the rings a bit. Then I put my small bubble level on the top of the scope and made the scope perfectly level. The problem comes when I begin to tighten the screws on the rings. No matter how slowly I do it or even if I do one turn per screw till they're all tight, the scope ends up tilting on me. Thoughts? You mean that once you start tightening the ring caps, with the scope 'leveled,' that action causes the scope to rotate a bit as you cinch down the caps and once you're done, you're left with a canted scope, correct? Not that this matters, but I line all of my scope rings with 3M Scotch brand tape, the wider stuff. Trim the excess off with a razor blade, or an X-acto knife. This acts as a cushion and keeps ring marks away, if you ever need to sell it. Next, you'll have to figure out an order of tightening, then see which way the scope rotates as you tighten down the caps. Once you know this, you want to rotate the scope a little bit the other way and repeat the process to see if you 'get it right.' I've got a lot of scopes and I've mounted them many times and I know what you're saying, I think, lol. Good luck. Chris |
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Quoted:
You mean that once you start tightening the ring caps, with the scope 'leveled,' that action causes the scope to rotate a bit as you cinch down the caps and once you're done, you're left with a canted scope, correct? Not that this matters, but I line all of my scope rings with 3M Scotch brand tape, the wider stuff. Trim the excess off with a razor blade, or an X-acto knife. This acts as a cushion and keeps ring marks away, if you ever need to sell it. Next, you'll have to figure out an order of tightening, then see which way the scope rotates as you tighten down the caps. Once you know this, you want to rotate the scope a little bit the other way and repeat the process to see if you 'get it right.' I've got a lot of scopes and I've mounted them many times and I know what you're saying, I think, lol. Good luck. Chris Quoted:
Quoted:
Guys, This is my set up: Rem 700 LTR Vortex Viper 6-24X50 (30mm tube) Leupold medium rings 30mm I made sure my rifle was level and locked into place. Put the scope on and tightened the rings a bit. Then I put my small bubble level on the top of the scope and made the scope perfectly level. The problem comes when I begin to tighten the screws on the rings. No matter how slowly I do it or even if I do one turn per screw till they're all tight, the scope ends up tilting on me. Thoughts? You mean that once you start tightening the ring caps, with the scope 'leveled,' that action causes the scope to rotate a bit as you cinch down the caps and once you're done, you're left with a canted scope, correct? Not that this matters, but I line all of my scope rings with 3M Scotch brand tape, the wider stuff. Trim the excess off with a razor blade, or an X-acto knife. This acts as a cushion and keeps ring marks away, if you ever need to sell it. Next, you'll have to figure out an order of tightening, then see which way the scope rotates as you tighten down the caps. Once you know this, you want to rotate the scope a little bit the other way and repeat the process to see if you 'get it right.' I've got a lot of scopes and I've mounted them many times and I know what you're saying, I think, lol. Good luck. Chris Yes, this is my exact situation. |
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Work backwards and cheat a little bit.
Sometimes I'm right on the first go-round and sometimes I've had to go back and forth a half dozen attempts. It's trial and error often times, but if you stick to one pattern for tightening the cap screws, you'll see things moving in one direction, or the other and this is where the 'cheating' part comes in. Chris |
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I normally use a feeler gauge. I use it to fill the gap between the bottom flat of the scope and the rail. I keep it in place while tightening the ring caps and it keeps the scope level. This works as long as the reticle is straight in the scope. When you pull out the feeler gauge re-check the torque on the rings. If you have it too thick it will hold the scope up slightly. |
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You just need to go slow one side and then another. If you are going a full turn then that is too much. I am talking 1/4 to 1/2 turns max. Back and forth while watching the level. Try the way I posted up top.
Also, to each his own but I don't put anything between my scope and the rings. I use Seekins rings and never had any ring marks or slipping. |
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quickest way for me is...
if your using a scope like nightforce schmidt leupold ect your turrets are flat and level to your reticle. So besides a plum get a level and level the gun as best you can in vice. something like this 
Then mount your scope and adjust tension between each side evenly. just go slow and watch the level on top of your turret. Keep a level on the top of your scope turret and keep that part level. Then get a bubble level (like flat line ops, vortex, or accuracy 1st) and level it to the level on the top of your rifle! DONE! Check it with a plumb or the redneck way on the range, if you have naturally hanging steel targets with straight lines you can actually use them as a check on your bubble level on your rifle example.... this guy hangs naturally level (Ive checked...) so at distance once I have mounted a new scope or a buddy is shooting with out a level, I throw the reticle up on one of his straight edges and check. (this works horizontal or vertical) Done! 
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Quoted:
quickest way for me is... if your using a scope like nightforce schmidt leupold ect your turrets are flat and level to your reticle. So besides a plum get a level and level the gun as best you can in vice. something like this http://riflemensblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/actionlevel1_mn.jpg Then mount your scope and adjust tension between each side evenly. just go slow and watch the level on top of your turret. Keep a level on the top of your scope turret and keep that part level. Then get a bubble level (like flat line ops, vortex, or accuracy 1st) and level it to the level on the top of your rifle! DONE! Check it with a plumb or the redneck way on the range, if you have naturally hanging steel targets with straight lines you can actually use them as a check on your bubble level on your rifle example.... this guy hangs naturally level (Ive checked...) so at distance once I have mounted a new scope or a buddy is shooting with out a level, I throw the reticle up on one of his straight edges and check. (this works horizontal or vertical) Done!
<a href="http://s804.photobucket.com/user/elysiumsun/media/A0D591D9-E030-45AA-93F3-83EC93BE2710_zpspqqzmhlk.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy330/elysiumsun/A0D591D9-E030-45AA-93F3-83EC93BE2710_zpspqqzmhlk.jpg</a> Thank you. I haven't yet acted on the great advice offered here in this thread. Been distracted by work and another home project. |
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Quoted:
You just need to go slow one side and then another. If you are going a full turn then that is too much. I am talking 1/4 to 1/2 turns max. Back and forth while watching the level. Try the way I posted up top. Also, to each his own but I don't put anything between my scope and the rings. I use Seekins rings and never had any ring marks or slipping. ^ 1 full turn is too much and why the tops aren't tightening down evenly and causing the scope to cant. I go as little as 1/8 turn each time. Stick to an even tightening pattern too so each screw gets a turn before you go back to the beginning screw. Take your time, enjoy the process. |
