Posted: 12/20/2014 10:32:03 AM EDT
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I have a Mountain Rifle made in 1987 and the trigger has some issues as I can not get the creep out of it, which Remington triggers can I replace it with ? (The action can be cycled with the safety engaged)
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Quoted:
I have a Mountain Rifle made in 1987 and the trigger has some issues as I can not get the creep out of it, which Remington triggers can I replace it with ? (The action can be cycled with the safety engaged) Thanks You send it into Remington and they will replace it with a X Mark Pro. I would just Shilen, or Timney if you are not that mechanically inclined. |
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Quoted:
You send it into Remington and they will replace it with a X Mark Pro. I would just Shilen, or Timney if you are not that mechanically inclined. Quoted:
Quoted:
I have a Mountain Rifle made in 1987 and the trigger has some issues as I can not get the creep out of it, which Remington triggers can I replace it with ? (The action can be cycled with the safety engaged) Thanks You send it into Remington and they will replace it with a X Mark Pro. I would just Shilen, or Timney if you are not that mechanically inclined. THIS |
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First, research the Walker trigger online regarding its construction, diagrams, smoothing, etc so you will know something about what you want to do before you start. Save relevant pictures, diagrams and instructions.
Unload your rifle. Unload your rifle. Unload your rifle. Take it out of the stock. Remove the bolt. Tap out the pins holding the trigger in place but leave the one that holds the bolt stop partially in so as to keep the bolt stop and spring in place (if you take it all the way out, just remember how to put it back). Then disassemble the trigger unit being careful not to lose the safety detent ball bearing which will fall right out. Take pictures as you go for reference. Clean all parts well as this is most likely your only problem. Observe where various parts mate and move upon each other, notably, the connector which is shaped like this [ , and the sear. Polish these bearing surfaces with progressive grades of emery (400, 600, 1200, 2000, etc) that has been mounted to a glass plate (3/16" tempered with polished edges if you have one made for you). I have emery up to 800 and continue with flat stones to 8000. You don't want to change the angle of, or reduce the level of these surfaces. You only want to smooth and polish so use good lighting and magnification to observe your effect. Take your time. This is not hard, but you will need to be able to watch what you are doing. While the trigger is out and apart, inspect the safety detent holes that nests the the ball bearing. There is one small and one large corresponding to the two safety positions. If you find your safety a little stiff, you can smooth it by breaking the edges of the detent holes where the ball bearing enters and leaves. Hopefully, you will see a polished track where the ball bearing slides when the safety is manipulated. This will show you where you want the rim of the hole smooth. Likely, the shallower detent hole won't need any attention. Make sure there is not burr on the rim of the detent hole. I attempted to relieve this spot somewhat to allow easier travel, but if I remember correctly, it was hard to work a tool there, and not wanting to mess it up, I quit early. Lightly oil the bearing surfaces and reassemble the trigger unit. Replace it onto the rifle and restock by tightening the front action screw first while bumping the action rearward in the stock. Now, the trigger will need adjusting since disassembly undid the previous settings. I had long done well adjusting only the pull weight on my 700 triggers. So much so that I felt confident enough to touch the "forbidden screws". These being the sear engagement and over travel screws. That was when the fun left. The problem is that all three adjustment screws, when manipulated, affect the adjustment of the other two screws. ex. Set sear engagement, then adjust pull weight, and then your sear adjustment is off. So you reset the sear and then your pull weight is off. It is hard to get all three screws set in balance. When your three screws are not in perfect balance, you risk an accidental discharge that can happen when the safety is moved on or off, the bolt is opened or closed, or when the rifle takes a bump. It will take some time and effort, trial and error to achieve a desirable and safe adjustment. You will find helpful a little window in the trigger housing that allows you to observe the sear engagement as you make these adjustments. There is a how-to on the internet somewhere that gives a sequence for setting the three screws. Find it and follow it. When you think you have the screws all adjusted, test it. Open and close, open and close your bolt a dozen times. Do it with the safety on and off. Put the safety on and off a dozen times. Test the safety with each cycle by pulling the trigger on the unloaded gun with the muzzle in a safe direction. Bump the butt on the floor several times with the striker cocked. Take the safety off. Open the bolt. Close the bolt. Repeat. Do all these in a systematic manner until you are satisfied that the rifle will not fire without the trigger being pulled. Then never trust the rifle again. Put some lacquer, nail polish or purple thread lock on these screws or they will move when the rifle is used (ask me how I know, or how my 2.75# pull became 1.5#). This is what I did to my rifle when I had a factory pull weight. I felt bold and touched the "forbidden screws". It took some fussing, but I finally got them adjusted. However, I now had creepy pre-travel. I ended up putting in a Timney. After doing triggers jobs on my three Remington shotguns, a Benelli and a Ruger revolver, I revisited the factory trigger. I went beyond screw adjustments by taking the trigger apart and doing what I described above. I now have a 2.75# crisp factory trigger and a spare Timney. |