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Posted: 10/17/2014 1:18:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: mathecb]
I was turned to a 50/50 mix of Butches and Kroil at a match a while back. Have been using it since and very happy with the results.
Method: 1 wet patch with 50/50 mix of butches/kroil. 10-15 passes with a brush wait a few minutes 1 dry patch repeat until patches come out clean Finish with a patch of alcohol or acetone, a patch of oil, and one dry patch. Whats your favorite solvent and cleaning procedure? |
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John 8:12 "I am the light of the world: he that followeth me shall not walk in darkness, but shall have the light of life."
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[#1]
I've been using shooters choice bore cleaner for a long time and even though I have used other products It is my favorite normal usage cleaner.
Usually I push a few wet patches through and then a few dry patches. Then push a few more wet patches and then let it sit for a few minutes and then push a few dry patches. If those dry patches are clean enough, I run a patch with rust preventative and one dry patch and call it done. If after the second wet patches the dry patches come out dirty or show copper I run wet patches followed by several passes with a wet nylon brush and let it sit for "a while". 30 minutes up to several hours. Repeat that until patches are clean and don't show copper. With my precision rifles I almost never see enough copper on patches to worry about it but I do occasionally like to get it all out to make sure I don't get an excessive build up. Some might say that is over doing it but that is the least that I can do and not have my OCD issues start bugging me On non precision guns I might use a bronze brush to speed things up. |
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[#2]
break-free CLP
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[#3]
Hoppes #9 for the barrel, never clp in a precision rifle unless you're behind enemy lines. :) You can use the Hoppes to pick up chicks in a pinch too!
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[Last Edit: HighpowerRifleBrony]
[#5]
Favorite solvent: Hoppe's #9.
Method: 2x solvent-covered brush from breech to muzzle (I remove it after it emerges out of muzzle and screw it back on after pulling rod out) Wipe off action and bolt with paper towels and Q-tips. Grease for bolt-guns and oil for semis. (takes about 10 minutes) 1x dry patch (preferably thick cotton) 1x wet patch 1x dry patch 1x Hoppe's oil patch 1x dry patch After removing rod guide, rotate a dry patch (in a loop jag) in the chamber to absorb any liquid that may have got in there. Visually inspect chamber and bore for fuzzies and blowout or run dry patches through to remove them. |
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"The most feared pirate. He stole their gold, but only left friendship and tiny plastic ponies in his wake." - NorthPolar
"Whatever they put on their uppers smells like.....God's vagina." -MILSPEC556 |
[#6]
My favorite: Hoppe's #9
For all my precision long range guns I use the 10% method. For how many rounds I shoot down the tube that down, 10% of patches I run. First 2 are wet patches. Then alternate dry and wet until the last 2 patches are dry. Inspect the chamber and barrel. I like doing it this way because next time I go back to the range Im pretty much hitting where I left off the last time I went to the range. |
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[#7]
Two wet patches of hoppes #9, followed by shooting the bore full of wipe out foaming cleaner. Let it sit for an hour, patch out, repeat as necessary.
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[#8]
I use Butch's Bore Shine. Everyone has their own way of doing things. I used to be a clean after every range session guy but over the years learned that rifle bores don't need to be cleaned as much as people think as the new powders and steels don't cause as much problems as they did years ago but in the gun game old habits die hard. The dogma in shooting is thick. Took me a while to try it for myself and learn that modern rifle barrels don't need to be cleaned as often as people think.
My practice .308 will have the bolt and lug area wiped down after a range session but don't touch the bore. It's gone 800+ rounds without being touched. Matches with my Creedmoor I can go a couple hundred rounds. They are also custom barrels. Factory might need more if it's rough. Let the rifle tell you when it needs to be cleaned when accuracy starts to slip. Most barrels need about 10-20 rounds to be properly fouled and shoot to their best so if you are cleaning after every 20 rounds you really aren't seeing what the rifle can do. I always shoot at least 20 rounds through my match rifles before a match to make sure they are properly fouled. Try shooting more than 20 rounds before cleaning and see what your rifle does. You won't hurt anything. Now if the rifle gets wet or in other bad weather or will be put up and not shot for many months then you can clean them to make sure nothing bad happens to the bore. I use Butch's bore shine as mentioned. A couple patches, wait 15 min to let it start working on the fouling and copper and then run a looped ended bronze brush with Butch's on it down and back 10 times. Then a couple more patches of Butch's and wait 15 min and then dry patches and a patch of Kroil. Always use a bore guide with your rod. Dry patch out the Kroil before shooting. You will also hear things like "The only thing I was taught re cleaning , bullets only travel one way down a bore ...same with brushes,patches etc." More of that dogma I spoke of. I have heard this preached for years. The theory is you will damage the crown. The reality is that with care you won't. You can do damage pushing a brush down the bore if not done with care as well. Some say you shouldn't use bronze brushes, some say you shouldn't use ANY brushes. Where does the truth lie? Think about when you scrub something to clean it. Do you only scrub in one direction? Always pushing away? No you go back and forth as it grabs the mess you are trying to clean from different directions and not just push it down. My thought is same with bore fouling. I just know that from my experience with my rifles that when used properly and with care bronze brushes and pushing down and back with them will not do any damage. You completely exit the bore with the brush and then slowly and deliberately pull it back in until it is completely in the bore and then pull. My Creedmoor has been cleaned that way since 2008 and is very accurate. Same with my other rifles. I am not trying to make anyone change their way of doing things but just to think a little that just because it has been said for years doesn't always make it right. Ask why and see if there is any truth to it or if it's just more dogma being passed down as fact. |
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http://www.teamblaster.net
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[#9]
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A fine is a tax for doing wrong, a tax is a fine for doing well.
Proud Member Team Ranstad |
[#10]
Kroil and Shooter's Choice.
I run a wet patch down the bore after a range session, but only clean after accuracy degrades |
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1 MOA All Day member
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[Last Edit: Old_Painless]
[#11]
I use a half and half mixture of Shooter's Choice and Kroil that I learned about many years ago from benchrest shooters.
I run a wet patch through the barrel to wet it, and then 6 to 8 runs of a bronze bore brush both directions. Another wet patch to remove all the stuff that is now loose. Then a wet patch and let it soak for a short while. Then a dry patch or two or three. (I will sometimes 'wash' the bore clean with a patch wet with WD-40 and then dry it out.)Then one with a light oil if I am putting the rifle away for a while. Then a dry patch before going to the range. I probably clean them more than I really need too. |
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"I hate rude behavior in a man. I won't tolerate it." - Capt. W. F. Call, Texas Ranger
http://www.theboxotruth.com/ Shooting Stuff Is Fun |
[Last Edit: Sierra5]
[#12]
My bolt gun
I usually use Hoppes as my solvent. Two wet patches, let sit, scrub in multiples of 10 when needed, two wet patches, then dry patch until fairly clean. Once a year I'll strip the barrel out using one of the copper eaters. My rilfe always shoots tighter and more consistantly when a little on the dirty side so I'm not too obsessive about getting a mirrored barrel every time I clean. When I strip my barrel out once a year it takes 100-200 rounds to get it diry enough to come back in to where I like it. I'm still figuring out what my OBR likes so its a little more random right now. |
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"I am just crossing my fingers that nobody will put a dong in there." NorCal_Leo
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[#13]
i learned to clean after every 10-20 rounds at Thunder Ranch back when they were still in Texas. I got smarter/lazier since then. now i clean a new barrel after every round until it stops copper fouling, and then i'll usually go 1500 rounds or so before i need to clean it again.
my current barrel seems a little unusual though. i was seeing higher than normal SDs and as an experiment tried cleaning and sure enough, my SDs dropped in half, but only for 30-40 rounds then they were back up again. I dunno. always learning i guess... need to clean it a few times and see if it's repeatable i don't use brushes until i get to 1500 rounds and then i scrub the crap out of it. when it's new, patches are fine. let the solvent do the work. i also use 1/3 kroil, 2/3 shooter choice. works pretty dang good. i have a suspicion about anything would though. i only push patches through one way, but that's because i don't want to dump solvent in my action, not because it's like rubbing the fur on a cat backwards or something. bore guides are a must. proper diameter coated rod is also important. and wipe down the friggin rod before you stick it back in the bore. don't put dirt back in there. |
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[#14]
Very interesting... I have a new Bartlin .260 barrel with zero rounds and am not sure what to do the first time at the range....
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The_Beer_Slayer: Damit, i just dropped my GD riot gear off at the cleaners and now you gotta come in here with this shit?
EasTexan:I swear my dog gives me the look of shame when I'm masturbating |
[#15]
Originally Posted By Slug-O: Very interesting... I have a new Bartlin .260 barrel with zero rounds and am not sure what to do the first time at the range.... View Quote Shoot it. Seriously just shoot it. I shot my brand new barrel and tested my load and everything was fine. I don't believe in the shooting and cleaning and shooting and cleaning.
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A fine is a tax for doing wrong, a tax is a fine for doing well.
Proud Member Team Ranstad |
[#16]
Originally Posted By Slug-O: Very interesting... I have a new Bartlin .260 barrel with zero rounds and am not sure what to do the first time at the range.... View Quote My habit is to clean any factory gunk out, shoot 1 and wet/dry patch it for 5 rounds just to pay homage to the barrel gods. Then I enjoy it and put a Moly layer down. |
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"The most feared pirate. He stole their gold, but only left friendship and tiny plastic ponies in his wake." - NorthPolar
"Whatever they put on their uppers smells like.....God's vagina." -MILSPEC556 |
[#17]
Originally Posted By Slug-O:
Very interesting... I have a new Bartlin .260 barrel with zero rounds and am not sure what to do the first time at the range.... View Quote I have tried everything from just shoot it, to shoot one/clean/shoot one etc, to the Tubb TMS break in and you know what? They all shot no differently for the rest of the life of the barrel. So now I just give a good over all cleaning when the rifle comes in like any new firearm and give the bore a good cleaning to make sure the bore is clean and then I go shoot it. I will say that I usually put about 150 rounds through the rifle before I look to get hard chrono numbers and settle on a load. I have found that is around when the barrel will settle in and velocity will stabilize. Before that I have found velocities to be lower slightly and then as the barrel is shot they become more stable. Sometimes accuracy will get a little better too. As always though barrels can be different but I use 150 as the average number from the barrels, both custom and factory, I have had over the years. |
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http://www.teamblaster.net
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[#18]
For bench cleaning Im pretty basic and just use a Dewey coated rod,jag/brushes with a Brownells bore guide and clean breech to muzzle.For field use I much prefer the OTIS 3gun kit I have.
Solvents:for normal cleaning good ole Hoppe's No.9 Nitro Solvent....for copper I prefer Sweets 7.62 or BoreTech. Oil:Weapon Shield,Break Free CLP or Slip2000 Gun Lube.....whichever is on hand at the time.....not picky about which one anymore. |
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[#19]
I don't
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Ryan Miller LCPL USMC - Sept 14, 2006. Barwanah, Iraq
Adam P. Kennedy, Sgt USA - April 8, 2007. Diwaniyah, Iraq Mark R. Cannon, HM3 USN - October 2, 2007. Kunar, Afghanistan 11091 |
[#20]
montana extreme cleaning rod
possum hollow bore guide non-brass jags and nylon brushes boretech eliminator kroil |
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[#21]
Eliminator
Everything else, Bore Tech as well. |
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[#22]
Jb bore cleaning compound on bore snake followed by dry bore snake
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[#23]
foam it "gun slick"
walk away for 30 min brush it a bit clean brush in a bottle of alchole dry patches till clean.. 3 to 6 put some HBN on a patch and swab the bore.. |
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[#24]
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[#25]
Currently, I am using the mpro7 products. I still have to use about 10-15 fouling shots after a bore cleaning before my 308 will shoot well. I buy cheap ammo for fouling. I clean the bore after every 120-150 rounds from my 308. The mpro7 claim of making your bore easier to clean after continued use seems to be valid in my camp. I have never used any cleaning product that does not work. The mpro7 seems to work faster, and with no smell at all.
I still have one of the large bottles of Butches that I will use outside when it warms up. I don't want to waste it, but the smell stays in the house for days. Both cleaners work best with bronze brushes. I still want a reasonably priced bore scope to see what is going on. I have yet to see one in hand that I think is worth the money. One at a gun show was $199.00, but useless. It wouldn't go down a .30 bore. Another was $500.00, about $200.00 more than I am willing to spend. They wouldn't let me look through it anyway. |
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[#26]
mPro 7 Bore Gel, run a wet patch through, let sit for 5 minutes.
Put clean patches through until dry. Put oil patch through. Done. I never use a brush unless I'm changing bullet brands, and possibly afraid of issues with the old copper fouling vs the new bullets. Haven't had a drop in accuracy since I bought her back in 07. 1500+ rounds through the pipe. |
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[#27]
Factory barrels...who cares.
Premium barrels...they should not copper up after a few sessions. Carbon ring around the throat is an issue but it is mitigated with carbon cutter and a nylon brush with plenty of soak time. GM Top Engine Cleaner works as well. I love Hoppes # 9. It can't cause rust, can't damage the bore, and is mostly kerosene. You can literally soak a bore in it forever and it will be fine. I don't clean mutch beyond rust prevention but if I have a dirty precision rifle, it gets wet patches of hoppes, soak time of overnight, more hoppes, brush a little one direction...then dry totally. Don't forget the chamber/throat. Use a bore guide...a good one and a coated rod. Never get solvent into your stock or trigger. |
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[#28]
For copper fouling KG12 is awesome.
KG1 is also excellent for removing carbon. I subscribe to the you can do more harm cleaning the barrel than shooting it. When accuracy degrades clean the barrel. |
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[#29]
Shooters Choice.
1-2 wet patches then let sit for a few minutes. Barrel down I go after the chamber, then 2-3 passes with a bronze brush down the bore, then another 1-2 wet patches, then 3-5 dry patches, then a pass with a bore mop. |
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[#30]
Clean when rifle tells me to, and when the time comes for carbon only. Example .308 Bartlein barrel goes well over 800 rounds before she wants to be cleaned. Factory barrels will let you know sooner.
MP7 and a bronze brush. Flush barrel with Brake clean. MP7 and a bronze brush. Flush with Brake Clean. Push three patches. Back to shooting. That being said if the rifle gets wet it gets cleaned no matter how many rounds down the barrel. If the rifle is going to be stored for months the rifle gets cleaned. Those that shoot and clean, shoot and clean may never know the accuracy potential of their rifle. |
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[Last Edit: dangerdan]
[#31]
Soaked bore brush with Kano Kroil several times through the barrel. Let it sit for about 20 minutes, wet patch soaked with Kano Kroil, then dry patch a few times.
In about 5 minutes after letting the Kroil do it's job, its nice and clean. I've tried Hoppes #9 several times, but it doesn't seem to work as good as Kroil and Kroil is cheaper and has more uses (because it's cheaper) I haven't had to use copper solvent yet. |
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Uncle
Sam's Misguided Children I was cloning before cloning was cool: Mk12, Mk13, Mk18, M4 Block II |
[#32]
I'm just a moron that likes to shoot, but for my precision bolt guns, I only use Wipe-Out bore foam and patches.
I hose it down the bore and let it sit for a couple hours. Run a clean patch through. If no blue, I'm done. If blue, I hose it down a 2nd time and let it sit overnight. When I run a clean patch through in the morning, it usually comes out a deep, brilliant blue, along with a lot of brown and black. I then run a patch with some Weapon Shield on it, call it good, and put her away. It seems to work great for me. Perhaps I'm doing something wrong? |
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[#33]
I started using Seal1 cleaner about 3 years ago - it's a great all around cleaner for your gun. www.Seal1.net
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[Last Edit: LoneStoner]
[#34]
At the range, I make sure to run a patch and brush 2-3 strokes with a 50/50 mix of Kroil and Shooter's choice
after about every 25 rounds. On my last string of shots at the range, I run a few patches and brush-strokes of 100% Hoppe's Benchrest and let it sit overnight, then I start checking for copper "tell" on patches using nylon bore brushes. I use Benchrest because it is the copper solvent, I don't think regular Hoppes #9 is formulated to remove copper. Then, usually after about 10 brush strokes and patches, when the patches start to look like most of the copper has been cleaned out, I run a mop with Hoppe's Elite thru the barrel. I like to use Benchrest (work on powder fouling, too) to clean fouling off the flash hider then coat it with Break Free LP (Not CLP) because it's thick and provides protection against rust. I run Hoppe's Benchrest thru barrel after about a week to see if any more copper gets leached out. Usually get a little, so I clean as shown above, the finish off with Ellite-soaked mop thru barrel, and re-coat every 6 months while "inactive" |
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[#35]
I use Mpro7/Hoppes Elite products. They seem to work just fine. They also allow me to clean inside of the house. The Butche's or Hoppes 9 stink up the house for hours. I have yet to find a cleaner that did not work well.
I do a complete bore clean every 200 to 250 rounds. |
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[Last Edit: MS556]
[#37]
Hoppes #9 for general carbon and powder residue removal. Butches Bore Shine for copper, especially after shooting monolithic solid copper bullets like Bsrnes TSX and TTSX.
If copper build up is extreme and Butches is not getting it all (patches still greenish) I go to Barnes CR-10. It is the strongest copper solvent I know of, but does little for powder residue. |
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[#38]
I've been using patch-out foaming bore cleaner in my 260. Gets a absolute ton of copper and carbon fouling out of the barrel.
I usually foam the barrel, let it sit 60 minutes,drain, refoam, let it sit 60 minutes, then scrub gently with a nylon brush, followed by a few wet patches of liquid patch-out, followed by a few dry patches. |
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Driver carries more than $20 worth of ammunition.
A despicable, shameful, "right wing" extremist. |
[#39]
With good barrels, I have had good luck just using MPro-7 to get all carbon out, followed by Montana Xtreme for copper.
But with a mass production factory bolt rifle barrel, carbon can be stubborn. My most recent factory Remington barrel is really stubborn for carbon fouling. I found an excellent procedure of using Wipe Out foaming bore cleaner followed my MPro-7. Basically, Wipe Out and let sit over night. Patch (this gets pretty much all the copper) and Wipe Out again. Let sit for a few hours. Patch and Wipe Out again. Let sit for an hour or so. Patch out and then flush with MPro-7 and nylon brush. After this, a few patches and it is carbon free and relatively copper free. |
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Distinguished Rifleman #1924
NRA High Power Rifle - Master NRA Certified Instructor (Rifle and Metallic Cartridge Reloading) and RSO https://www.ocabj.net | http://jocabphoto.com |
[#40]
After you get your barrel nice and clean, how many rounds till it shoots well again?
What do you use for fouling ammo? |
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[#41]
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"I hate rude behavior in a man. I won't tolerate it." - Capt. W. F. Call, Texas Ranger
http://www.theboxotruth.com/ Shooting Stuff Is Fun |
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