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Posted: 9/12/2011 10:56:31 AM EDT
I've been lusting after a nice Swedish Mora for some time know, because of it's popularity.



This past weekend, I was camping with a friend and he and I traded some gear. Included in that was a wooden handled 'carbon steel' Mora. It was amazingly sharp, and did a great job on everything I used it for....





Only one problem.



The trees (small maples and oaks) left residue on the knife which I was barely able to get off (soap and water), and then the knife turned black and immediately started to rust.



WTF?!



I'm a self proclaimed knife snob, and I've been hunting and camping and fishing with fixed blades my whole life and I have never had a blade turn and rust after a little moisture like that.



Whats the deal arf?


Link Posted: 9/12/2011 11:31:33 AM EDT
[#1]
After you wash a blade in water,(moreso hot water) whatever, if you do not oil it immediately,...YES, it will rust. Especially in a humid climate like Alabama.  It's Carbon Steel, not Stainless Steel.  Whatever was in the residue on the knife might have accelerated the rusting.  Mora knives are great, I have several carbon steel blades, and mine have never rusted at all.
Just sayin.
Link Posted: 9/12/2011 11:34:17 AM EDT
[#2]





Quoted:



After you wash a blade in water,(moreso hot water) whatever, if you do not oil it immediately,...YES, it will rust. Especially in a humid climate like Alabama.  It's Carbon Steel, not Stainless Steel.  Whatever was in the residue on the knife might have accelerated the rusting.  Mora knives are great, I have several carbon steel blades, and mine have never rusted at all.


Just sayin.
I oiled it pretty heavily compared to what I do my other knives. I'm running other carbon blades that don't seem to have this issue.





I'm going to strip it down in the wash tank tonight and soak it in oil for a few days.
eta: Come to think of it, I have a few knives that I have to put oil in the sheaths to keep them lubed. This sounds like another candidate for that rig.
 
Link Posted: 9/12/2011 12:40:13 PM EDT
[#3]
I don't know which model you have, but they are about 2 for $25 on Sportsmans Guide. I kept one in my car and it rusted awfully quick.
Link Posted: 9/12/2011 12:47:55 PM EDT
[#4]



Quoted:


I don't know which model you have, but they are about 2 for $25 on Sportsmans Guide. I kept one in my car and it rusted awfully quick.


This is my concern. They are being touted as a great survival blade for a great price point. I'm not buying the hype at this point.
 
Link Posted: 9/12/2011 1:03:33 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:

Quoted:
I don't know which model you have, but they are about 2 for $25 on Sportsmans Guide. I kept one in my car and it rusted awfully quick.

This is my concern. They are being touted as a great survival blade for a great price point. I'm not buying the hype at this point.


 


I hear ya.  
They are super sharp and seem well made but I guess in an all out survival situation where you can't properly care for the blade it may not be so optimal.
For myself, I just didn't put the thought into it about the carbon steel.  It was my carelessness that led to the rust.

I also hate the plastic scabbard it comes with, but thats secondary.
Link Posted: 9/12/2011 2:17:47 PM EDT
[#6]
I got one of the cheap ones from Sportsman's Guide.  I also did not pay any attention to it as it was my first carbon steel blade.  A few days later, I noticed it had rusted badly.  Did some checking here in the knives section and found out how to put a "forced patina" on the blade.  I used vinegar and mustard and just put it on the blade.  Let it soak for a while and it essentially did a "controlled" rusting process.  I got creative and did a tiger stripe pattern that turned out pretty good.  Once done, never a single problem with it trying to rust since.
Link Posted: 9/12/2011 3:19:35 PM EDT
[#7]
Immerse the blade in boiling water until the rust turns black.  Then buff if off with some steel wool.  Repeating this process will give the blade a nice "rust blued" finish that will be quite durable.  
Link Posted: 9/12/2011 4:38:12 PM EDT
[#8]
this interesting discussion. does it have any effect in the edge?
Link Posted: 9/12/2011 5:12:07 PM EDT
[#9]
Rust won't have any affect on the edge until it turns to "Swiss cheese".

It's normal for carbon steel blades to stain and turn black. I like the looks of a knife that gets used. A wipe down with oil, just like you do with your blued rifles, will make it last longer than you will. We still have blades from the Middle Ages in good condition.

An advantage of carbon steel is that it'll strike sparks from a flint.
Link Posted: 9/12/2011 6:28:24 PM EDT
[#10]
only pretty knives are good for survival......
Link Posted: 9/12/2011 6:44:42 PM EDT
[#11]
Link Posted: 9/12/2011 6:49:51 PM EDT
[#12]



Quoted:


only pretty knives are good for survival......






Guess you've never cleaned an animal with a rusty blade.



 
Link Posted: 9/12/2011 7:49:26 PM EDT
[#13]
Before, as you can see, she had some rust. very strange to me, even with higher carbon knives.













After I did a little work tonight.















I also ground off the smooth edges on the back and put an edge on the back toward the tip for hitting my firesteel.



I know, I know, my grinding work isn't pretty, batman, so I can't use it.



I'm starting to like this little knife. I wish I had done the research to know that it needed prepping from the factory.
Link Posted: 9/13/2011 2:42:37 AM EDT
[#14]
Quoted:
Before, as you can see, she had some rust. very strange to me, even with higher carbon knives.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SWD5g_FBEcA/Tm7R0rvV2TI/AAAAAAAAJWQ/mdNe8xlsxQo/s640/IMG-20110912-00017.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-G9bK3a_HLH8/Tm7R1Qrx-_I/AAAAAAAAJWU/nUvKcgzbJJo/s640/IMG-20110912-00018.jpg


After I did a little work tonight.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XbRljAMMz-E/Tm7R2kQDiQI/AAAAAAAAJWY/vl-fhxGtruk/s640/IMG-20110912-00020.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jVqZhw031jY/Tm7R3fCSNII/AAAAAAAAJWc/3YbNuNjy49w/s640/IMG-20110912-00021.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bCQPQYlq_RM/Tm7R4CBDyeI/AAAAAAAAJWg/Qb2S1HVykZc/s640/IMG-20110912-00022.jpg

I also ground off the smooth edges on the back and put an edge on the back toward the tip for hitting my firesteel.

I know, I know, my grinding work isn't pretty, batman, so I can't use it.

I'm starting to like this little knife. I wish I had done the research to know that it needed prepping from the factory.




none of mine have rusted that much. I would have rubbed it with oiled steel wool and left the patina as a protective layer. Then it would be very smooth on the sides and rust resistant. I should force rust on one of mine to see how it works.
Link Posted: 9/13/2011 3:24:04 AM EDT
[#15]
That is fairly normal.  High carbon steel rusts quickly. Wipe it down and dry it after every use, If you have oil then lightly oil the blade before you are done.  They might take a little more attention than some other knives but rusting and discoloration is normal. If you want them to stay shiny you'll need to polish it.  FWIW While you are camping you can take a wet rag dip it in wood ash and use it as a polish- at home you can use whatever- Bon Ami works ok..
Link Posted: 9/13/2011 6:46:23 AM EDT
[#16]
If you want after you clean the rust off, you can use some cold blue.  Take you time and let it cure 24 hours between coats.  Do 5 or 6 coats.  Don't forget to oil the last coat.  It will wear off with time, but is easy to touch up.  If you ever want to strip it back to bare steel Flitz polish takes cold blue off.  After enough coats the blade gets almost black, kind of like the look myself.
Link Posted: 9/13/2011 7:44:27 AM EDT
[#17]
Thanks to all for the great advice.



Other than appearances, is there any reason to care about the discoloration?
Link Posted: 9/13/2011 7:45:05 AM EDT
[#18]



Quoted:







none of mine have rusted that much. I would have rubbed it with oiled steel wool and left the patina as a protective layer. Then it would be very smooth on the sides and rust resistant. I should force rust on one of mine to see how it works.


I plan to do some more work on it. I couldn't find my 0000 wool last night.



 
Link Posted: 9/13/2011 8:08:02 AM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
Thanks to all for the great advice.

Other than appearances, is there any reason to care about the discoloration?


no- not really- it is just a natural process.  Call it "patina" and suddenly it becomes desirable.

My grandfather was Swedish and gave me one of these knives when I was born, years later when I was old enough to use it I remember cutting up some onions and the blade was almost instantly stained a mottled grey/black where the pieces of the onion had touched it.  I distinctly remember being upset about it at the time but that is just what happens with carbon steel.

Link Posted: 9/13/2011 8:49:32 AM EDT
[#20]
Quoted:
I don't know which model you have, but they are about 2 for $25 on Sportsmans Guide. I kept one in my car and it rusted awfully quick.


Damn, when did they get so expensive.
Link Posted: 9/13/2011 3:45:57 PM EDT
[#21]
I have had good luck with Sentry Marine Tuf Cloth in preventing rust.  Just wait till you get blood on that carbon steel unless it is treated!   I had a Mora knife I used to field dress a deer.  It was lightly oiled, but still rusted in a matter of a couple of hours till I get around to cleaning it up.  However, another Mora carbon steel knife I had which was treated with the Sentry cloth did not rust after coming into contact with deer blood.  

Carbon steel is easy to sharpen, but is does require a bit of maintenance.
Link Posted: 9/13/2011 4:08:50 PM EDT
[#22]
I know all the hate for the WD 40, but it is cheap and works good to clean off tree sap from my machete and moras. It has a pretty good solvent effect against sap.
Link Posted: 9/13/2011 4:12:39 PM EDT
[#23]
I keep my carbon Moras coated with 50W synthetic motor oil and I never have a problem. You just have to clean the oil off before use and re-oil after if you want to be sure to prevent discoloration.

Ragweed is a good place to buy Moras, lots of selection and decent prices.
Link Posted: 9/13/2011 5:55:18 PM EDT
[#24]
Quoted:
Ragweed is a good place to buy Moras, lots of selection and decent prices.


+ one on that, also a lot of history and information at that website to.

I have about 7 different moras and really like them all.  I have had very good luck with the carbon steal blades... you just have to remember what you are working with.  I can sharpen a mora carbon steal blade like no other.  My favorite is the classic wood handle mora and rides in my edc bag...  A lot of people that start using Scandinavian type grind blades fall in love with them, myself included.  I use mine for bush-craft, camping, hunting etc.  Mine has never rusted significantly though, but I do wipe it off after using it and if I know I am going to be leaving it in my bag or storing them for any length of time i do put a very thin film of oil on the steal.. (a couple drops on my fingers and rub it all over the steal)
YMMV
Link Posted: 9/13/2011 6:16:29 PM EDT
[#25]
Interesting thing about the Mora 2pk at SG is that the specs say carbon steel, yet the pics clearly show "stainless" on the blade........
Link Posted: 9/13/2011 7:22:16 PM EDT
[#26]
Seriously guys, do a forced patina, and you will never have to worry about rust again.  I don't even oil it anymore.  Just clean the blood and hair off with a wet rag and throw it in a box until next year.  Cotton squares soaked in vinegar, wrap them around the blade.  Let it soak for a couple hours.  Wash the blade in water, dry it and apply the vinegar again.  Do it a few times until you get the look you want.  Then apply a light coat of oil and its done.
Link Posted: 9/14/2011 8:16:22 AM EDT
[#27]
I e-mailed SG about that awhile back and they said the picture was wrong, that knife's are carbon steel.

Quoted:
Interesting thing about the Mora 2pk at SG is that the specs say carbon steel, yet the pics clearly show "stainless" on the blade........


Link Posted: 9/22/2011 4:14:08 AM EDT
[#28]
I used cold bluing solution on mine after I had the same issues with insta-rust when I took mine with me fishing.  The cold bluing solution (I think i used the Birchwood-Casey solution) did not turn the blade a uniform color, but the rust issues did stop.  Sort of like the forced patina that a poster mentioned earlier.
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