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Link Posted: 10/25/2021 6:01:59 PM EDT
[#1]
Link Posted: 10/26/2021 8:27:50 PM EDT
[#2]
Link Posted: 11/2/2021 9:17:28 PM EDT
[#3]
Link Posted: 11/3/2021 7:16:50 PM EDT
[#4]
Link Posted: 11/3/2021 11:20:25 PM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
Well today was partially successful.  I got the new shocks mounted in the front along with the correct steering stabilizer.  Skyjacker originally sent me the wrong parts.

I went to rebuild my washer pump and they don't sent a gasket that I need. So I may just put an aftermarket one in and forget it.

Lastly I put water to my drip edge to look for leaks and I found a few. So.... back into the shop for some masking and more rubber spray. Hopefully this time I get the holes sealed up. Ugh..
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Are the permanent magnets (if it uses those) in the washer pump still well attached?

In my jeep my wipers quit and I found out it was because the magnets came unglued from the housing.
Link Posted: 11/3/2021 11:23:51 PM EDT
[#6]
Link Posted: 11/4/2021 1:17:30 AM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By die-tryin:


OP look at how his vacuum advance line is.

Yours is T'd off drivers side. Id move the vacuum advance to the plugged off port,  on left side of carb, and keep it dedicated.
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Originally Posted By die-tryin:
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:


The routing Looks to be the same as yours.


OP look at how his vacuum advance line is.

Yours is T'd off drivers side. Id move the vacuum advance to the plugged off port,  on left side of carb, and keep it dedicated.


I wouldn't touch it. At least for now or it is going to cause some issues. You are running the advance on manifold vacuum (driver side port) so the dist. is advancing for idle as it is seeing vacuum. If you move the vacuum line to ported (pass side port) it will not see any vacuum at idle and will cause the truck to idle much lower = stall

OP, great truck. Congrats!!

I've owned several Eddy carbs. If it is hard to re start, the spacer is a great step in the right direction.

When you turn the truck off after driving take a peek down the front barrels and look for fuel dripping out the jets. If it drips, could be heat soaked.

The floats could be off / needle valves could be fouled causing flooding as fuel flows into the intake.. Easy to check by pulling the top of the carb off. They should hang about 15/16", then flip the lid upside down and they should be 7/16". The needle valves are behind the float arm.
Link Posted: 11/4/2021 1:25:21 AM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By captblue1:


one is port vacuum and the other manifold vacuum.  They are different.  Should vacuum advance be on port or manifold?  That is a chili with beans or no beans question.  Yours is currently on manifold vacuum.  As is mine.
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Different theories to both. But swapping from one side to the other is going to give your ride advance or none. Leave it be unless you feel like re timing your motor.
Link Posted: 11/4/2021 11:12:35 AM EDT
[#9]
Port vs. manifold are the same once you’re off idle. Only difference is at idle there is no port vacuum advance. But for the purposes of spark advance going down the highway they will provide the same functionality.
Link Posted: 11/4/2021 5:33:59 PM EDT
[#10]
Link Posted: 11/4/2021 7:35:29 PM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
Today I bought a tube of body panel adhesive.  I tried to seal up all of the holes, gaps, etc. Hopefully this works.
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Did you get the 3m panel bond adhesive? That stuff is AMAZING.
Link Posted: 11/4/2021 8:44:42 PM EDT
[#12]
Link Posted: 11/10/2021 10:06:48 PM EDT
[#13]
Link Posted: 11/18/2021 5:42:12 PM EDT
[#14]
Link Posted: 11/19/2021 8:34:34 PM EDT
[#15]
Link Posted: 11/19/2021 8:35:15 PM EDT
[#16]
Link Posted: 11/19/2021 9:33:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FlashMan-7k] [#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History

Can you get quality LED lighting that plugs in for your gauges? If you can find ones with quality electric components to drive the LED, they should have a lot longer of a lifetime and they are a royal pain to replace.

Fun to see the progress and your picture taking is pretty good!
Link Posted: 11/19/2021 9:35:52 PM EDT
[#18]
Link Posted: 11/20/2021 8:16:42 PM EDT
[#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
@paulthepreacherman
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Whoa!   How did I not see this thread?!?  Thanks for inviting me!
Link Posted: 11/21/2021 2:36:05 AM EDT
[#20]
Link Posted: 11/21/2021 3:11:56 AM EDT
[Last Edit: drdirtnap] [#21]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By the1919man:
Port vs. manifold are the same once you’re off idle. Only difference is at idle there is no port vacuum advance. But for the purposes of spark advance going down the highway they will provide the same functionality.
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Actually, they are not.  Ported vac to the dist on that engine. Ported vac increases with throttle angle. Manifold vac drops to zero with wide open throttle (when you hammer it) .  With WOT you'll need more advance, so it can't be manifold vacuum.
Link Posted: 11/21/2021 3:13:27 AM EDT
[#22]
Needs more LS.
Link Posted: 11/21/2021 6:12:32 AM EDT
[#23]
Very nice work
Link Posted: 11/21/2021 8:59:56 AM EDT
[#24]
Nice truck and you seem to be making good progress.
Link Posted: 11/21/2021 10:46:32 AM EDT
[Last Edit: TOTHEMAX] [#25]
Link Posted: 11/21/2021 11:13:13 AM EDT
[#26]
Nice! You have my attention now. I’m just finishing up a BB that I’m going to put in my ‘68 K10.

Are you planning on moving the engine forward? Using the stock type mounts?
Link Posted: 11/21/2021 11:35:09 AM EDT
[Last Edit: TOTHEMAX] [#27]
Link Posted: 11/21/2021 11:56:20 AM EDT
[#28]
I was going to buy a GM crate motor, but the one I wanted seems to be perpetually backordered.

I scrounged a bunch of parts to build a 496.

Old Mk IV 454 block, 049 heads with bigger valves. Steel stroker crank and flattop pistons. Gen V roller cam. Nothing too crazy but should be stout enough I think. Block is zero decked but it will only be about 9:1 compression with those pistons.

This is my “old man shakes fist at sky” truck and trying to keep it all pretty low tech/old school.

I think I’m going to try and swap in a squarebody crossmember/engine mount, moving it forward a bit. I’ll have to adjust the transmission and transfer case by sliding them forward to match. Mine has the SM465/NP205 in it now and I think I want to keep those.

I just finished rebuilding and re-gearing some squarebody K20 axles so it can have power steering and brakes.  It would probably be easier, at this point, to get the cab and box off the frame and do it like you are.
Link Posted: 11/21/2021 12:27:49 PM EDT
[#29]
Link Posted: 11/21/2021 3:15:05 PM EDT
[#30]
I’ve had shit luck with autos, but the only one that ever lasted very long for me is a 400. I beat the hell out of that thing for 5 years or so before it went. The newer ones must be better as they live behind some pretty stout LS motors. I know nothing about them though.
Link Posted: 11/21/2021 10:16:36 PM EDT
[#31]
Link Posted: 11/29/2021 11:55:07 AM EDT
[Last Edit: TOTHEMAX] [#32]
Link Posted: 11/29/2021 12:12:15 PM EDT
[#33]
Just a carb update, I rebuilt two of the four in my fleet.  One had the accelerator pump diaphragm half off the pegs and the float valves stuck open.   The second one had the accelerator pump check ball and weight frozen in place, no squirt.   Both carbs were actually pretty clean inside, but a good spray with brake kleen through every orifice, and then high pressure air is all it takes, along with a refresh kit.  Both trucks started immediately.

I did both carbs in about an hour apiece, from removal to re-install.  
Link Posted: 11/29/2021 12:15:34 PM EDT
[#34]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
Fair.

I am just looking for ease of driving. Especially if the wife wants to drive.

Also, does anyone have a recommendation for an in-between the frame rail fuel tank for EFI?
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A S-10 Blazer tank is popular for these.  Look on the youtoobz.  They tell you what year to pick.

Tanks inc. is another I have used.
Link Posted: 11/29/2021 12:17:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: wildearp] [#35]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
What sie exhaust would you recommend for a 427 BB? Its been a long time since I have had to get exhaust put on.
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I like doing a Y pipe for a two into one with a single big block Flowmaster.  This makes great sound with either headers or manifold.  Last one I did, I bought the Flowmaster Y-pipe.

This is a 65, but the frames are much-ly the same, you can see the y tucked up and the muffler behind it.



Exhaust size is largely dependent on your cam.  An example of what not to do, I put 3" dual header back, behind a mild small block (31Ford).  It caused issues.  The car now runs much better with proper sized tubes.  2 1/2" dual pipe should be fine for a mild big block, and even slightly smaller would do fine.
Link Posted: 11/29/2021 12:34:52 PM EDT
[#36]
Link Posted: 11/29/2021 9:53:43 PM EDT
[#37]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
Nice.

I need to figure out what to do with that th400. It's not going to be able to handle the HP of the 427. I will either have to tear it down and rebuild it, pay someone to do it or buy a new one. I don't know alot about transmissions.
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Man, if we lived closer I’d rebuild it for you.  They aren’t bad at all
Link Posted: 11/29/2021 10:08:08 PM EDT
[#38]
Link Posted: 12/19/2021 8:09:56 PM EDT
[#39]
Link Posted: 12/20/2021 2:23:53 PM EDT
[#40]
Link Posted: 12/21/2021 2:05:39 PM EDT
[#41]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
I know I haven't updated the thread in a while but here is a small update.

This weekend we are preparing the new frame to have the body transplanted onto it. The efi fuel tank arrived from boyds along with the rear disc brake kit.

This will be a slow process but we have all winter.
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Old frame rusted badly or some such?
Link Posted: 12/21/2021 4:20:51 PM EDT
[#42]
Link Posted: 12/21/2021 9:09:04 PM EDT
[Last Edit: thezentree] [#43]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
Little update. I have been busy with other projects and need to start working on it again. Hopefully tomorrow.

I ordered some 255/85/16's from the tire shop and will go get them installed in a week or so. They told me to get them now while they have them and before the price increase that is coming. I am also looking for some black hub caps for the wheels. I think it will help offset the chrome some.

I have been deciding whether or not to replace the seat, rebuild it myself or leave it. It has the typical wear towards the outside corners and when you sit on it you lean towards the door. I can get a rebuild kit from LMC and attempt to add more cushion to it. Or I can buy a new seat. I am just having a hard time finding one in stock that is the correct color.

The new shocks arrived the other day. The correct length this time. Skyjacker sent me the wrong ones so I need to swap them out and send them back.

I will take some pictures tomorrow if I get to work on it.
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Which 255/85R16s did you get? That's a rare size, which is dumb.
Link Posted: 12/21/2021 9:19:35 PM EDT
[#44]
Link Posted: 12/30/2021 6:25:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TOTHEMAX] [#45]
Link Posted: 12/31/2021 12:31:52 AM EDT
[#46]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
Question.

This is the first time driving the truck in a whole and first time taking it out when it's below 30deg.

After letting it warm up on high idle I kicked it down to idle and drove off. It seemed to want to stay in higher rpms and not drop down once i was driving.

When pushing the clutch in it would stay high unless you pressed the throttle to knock it down. I kept having to do this at intersections.

After my 3rd errand it drove great with no issues until I shut it off and restarted it again. Then it was back to doing it.

Is this a choke issue?
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Sounds like it's catching the next higher ledge on the high idle cam?  May need a little bit of adjustment, but I'm no carb expert.
Link Posted: 1/1/2022 10:48:58 PM EDT
[#47]
I’m no carb expert either. What carb are you using?   What kind of choke is it?   If it’s a vacuum it could be normal
Link Posted: 1/1/2022 11:22:20 PM EDT
[#48]
Link Posted: 1/4/2022 10:26:50 AM EDT
[#49]
Link Posted: 1/4/2022 11:08:05 PM EDT
[#50]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:


Well I adjusted the electric choke like they showed in the video and no change. It still wants to stay in a higher rpm even while driving but will kick down to idle if you push the accelerator in and Rev it.

Could this be caused by the brake booster malfunctioning?  Ever since I noticed this the brake light has been on in the dash. Previously it would come on once in a while but I never noticed this issue at the time.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
It's an edelbrock with electric choke.

I asked on a chevy forum and rhey suggested adjusting the choke along with making sure the linkages were not binding. I plan on messing with it tomorrow.



Well I adjusted the electric choke like they showed in the video and no change. It still wants to stay in a higher rpm even while driving but will kick down to idle if you push the accelerator in and Rev it.

Could this be caused by the brake booster malfunctioning?  Ever since I noticed this the brake light has been on in the dash. Previously it would come on once in a while but I never noticed this issue at the time.

Edelbrock Carburetors - Troubleshooting - Fast Idle Adjustment
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