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Link Posted: 4/8/2024 7:57:18 PM EDT
[#1]
Link Posted: 4/28/2024 7:34:47 PM EDT
[#2]
Link Posted: 6/1/2024 6:21:05 PM EDT
[#3]
Link Posted: 6/1/2024 11:16:18 PM EDT
[#4]
Link Posted: 6/2/2024 8:16:49 PM EDT
[#5]
Link Posted: 6/3/2024 9:15:10 AM EDT
[#6]
Link Posted: 6/3/2024 9:44:16 AM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
I called headman headers and they are 7 weeks out on a custom header for this motor. I don't want to wait that long so I will call a few other places.
View Quote

https://www.schoenfeldheaders.com/trucks-101.html These guys make good stuff


What are you doing for ignition and fuel delivery?
Link Posted: 6/3/2024 12:09:23 PM EDT
[#8]
At least it's an automatic so you don't have to worry about the Z-bar hitting the headers.
Link Posted: 6/3/2024 12:46:21 PM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Into_the_Void:
At least it's an automatic so you don't have to worry about the Z-bar hitting the headers.
View Quote

If it had a clutch, I'd say swap it over to hydraulic anyways.
Link Posted: 6/3/2024 2:49:37 PM EDT
[#10]
Link Posted: 6/3/2024 5:01:31 PM EDT
[#11]
Link Posted: 6/3/2024 5:07:54 PM EDT
[#12]
Link Posted: 6/3/2024 6:25:07 PM EDT
[#13]
Link Posted: 6/3/2024 6:58:48 PM EDT
[#14]
Haven't read the whole thread, but as a life-long Chevy guy, I love what you're doing, my favorite trucks are the 68-72, and 3/4 ton oh hell yeah. Best of luck to you on this build, she's looking great!
Link Posted: 6/3/2024 8:02:38 PM EDT
[#15]
Link Posted: 6/3/2024 8:02:52 PM EDT
[#16]
Link Posted: 6/3/2024 8:10:23 PM EDT
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
Any issues with these wires?

https://a.co/d/8iT3vwS

To answer the question about ignition I have an hei msd distributor.
View Quote


No, but fuck buying stuff like that from Amazon.  Too easy to get fake stuff
Link Posted: 6/3/2024 9:30:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: brass] [#18]
Link Posted: 6/3/2024 9:32:21 PM EDT
[#19]
OP, learn from my mistake.  A month or two ago, I had my SBC out and doing work to it.  I didn't touch the water pump.  Got everything together and been driving around.  Yesterday I noticed it pouring water.  The stupid PoS water pump was pissing out the weep hole.  I got to spend the afternoon pulling out the shroud, fan, all the accessory brackets, and replacing that thing in the truck.  Autozone does stock all new, not remanufactured ones.  I got a heavy duty aluminum one in there now.  Put as many new parts on your motor as you can now.  There will never be an easier time to do it.  

I can also vouch for the LMC aluminum radiator.  Its an aluminum core with plastic tanks.  It fits perfectly with the factory shroud and all the various lines in our trucks.
Link Posted: 6/3/2024 10:55:47 PM EDT
[#20]
Link Posted: 6/3/2024 10:56:17 PM EDT
[#21]
Link Posted: 6/3/2024 10:57:43 PM EDT
[#22]
Link Posted: 6/3/2024 11:56:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: brass] [#23]
Link Posted: 6/4/2024 7:19:42 AM EDT
[Last Edit: giantpune] [#24]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:


I'll be getting a new water pump to.  I really want to ditch the factory fan and go with electric fans.
View Quote

I've got some old cars ive switched over to electric fans.  In my experience, its not a great setup unless you are running some sort of ECU that you can let control the fans.

Otherwise you end up with some janky setup of relays, switches, and temp probes.  Then where do you put the temp probes?  If you put them on water coming into the radiator, the fans will never shut off because there's always hot water coming into the radiator.  If you put the probe near the water heading back to the water pump, then by the time its probed, that water is already heading back to the engine, so not much point using it to control the fans.    I ended up settling for some adjustable thermostat with the probe in the center of the radiator with manual override switches.

To me, the old style of mechanical fan with a clutch and thermostat is simpler.  And it works better.
Link Posted: 6/4/2024 7:33:49 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Into_the_Void] [#25]
I run an electric fan.  I have it on a manual switch as my engine runs cool all the time.  Seriously, my engine gets to 180 and just parks itself there.  I think I've turned on my fan once.  I'm glad too because the fan is so overkill - it sounds like a fucking jet engine and drops my RPM's when I throw the switch for it lol.

Lots of timing, high flow pump, and a big ass aluminum radiator does the job
Link Posted: 6/4/2024 8:27:23 AM EDT
[#26]
Link Posted: 6/4/2024 9:30:16 AM EDT
[#27]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
We have a 4-core radiator out of one of these trucks that has been cleaned, tanked, and cored. I wonder if that will work.
View Quote

Is it a stock copper one?
I would definitely try it.  Most likely a 4 core one will be able to keep up with it unless you're standing on your rev limiter for 5 minutes, just smoking the tires but not really getting air movement through the radiator.

Its free to give it a shot and see how it does.
Link Posted: 6/4/2024 3:23:49 PM EDT
[#28]
Link Posted: 6/4/2024 3:39:06 PM EDT
[#29]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:


It is a stock one. I don't know what metal it is made out of.
View Quote

Does it taste like a penny covered in antifreeze?  
Link Posted: 6/4/2024 7:31:11 PM EDT
[#30]
Link Posted: 6/5/2024 11:03:18 PM EDT
[#31]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:


It is a stock one. I don't know what metal it is made out of.
View Quote

Did you have a cooling issue before?
Link Posted: 6/5/2024 11:26:15 PM EDT
[#32]
Link Posted: 6/6/2024 7:36:32 AM EDT
[#33]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Macon1:

Did you have a cooling issue before?
View Quote

His new motor is 2.5x as much HP as before.  The old radiator can probably keep up just cruising and idling, but not while romping.
Link Posted: 6/6/2024 7:54:19 AM EDT
[#34]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:


Nope.  I think the radiator that is in it is a 2 core.
View Quote

Id run it, number of cores isnt as important as material, core size , core efficiency.

Also, Id run electric fans. I run them on everything, just dont go cheap spal are great. You can get a temp switch to from be cool that work well too.
Link Posted: 6/6/2024 7:56:35 AM EDT
[#35]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By giantpune:

His new motor is 2.5x as much HP as before.  The old radiator can probably keep up just cruising and idling, but not while romping.
View Quote

If he's towing or loading the motor down constantly Id agree, but if the cooling system can keep the motor cool idling around in traffic, itll be fine getting on it every once in a while.
Link Posted: 6/6/2024 8:00:52 AM EDT
[#36]
Link Posted: 6/6/2024 8:22:45 AM EDT
[#37]
Do you have some sort of LSD in the rear?  If not, you're going to want one

I threw an auburn in mine.  It's more like a locker
Link Posted: 6/6/2024 8:53:21 AM EDT
[#38]
Link Posted: 6/6/2024 9:15:57 AM EDT
[#39]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:


No, its something we need to look at.
View Quote

Full spools, front and rear. 6:1 ratio gears.  
Link Posted: 6/6/2024 4:33:28 PM EDT
[#40]
If you haven't done it already, check the status of your front shocks.  I just did the ones on my 82.  The upper mount for the front shocks is inside the frame.  It was a major pain in the taint with the long tube headers, starter, and transmission lines.  Shocks are like $45 each.  May be worth doing it now while its easy to get to them all.
Link Posted: 6/6/2024 10:05:32 PM EDT
[#41]
Link Posted: 6/8/2024 9:01:19 AM EDT
[#42]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:


No, its something we need to look at.
View Quote

Eaton Tru Trac, its a  helical-gear style diff, not a clutch diff works great and never wears out. If I dont run a straight locker, I put a truetrac in my diffs.
Link Posted: 6/8/2024 10:20:31 AM EDT
[#43]
Link Posted: 6/8/2024 10:21:25 AM EDT
[#44]
Link Posted: 6/8/2024 6:02:46 PM EDT
[#45]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
I also need a torque converter. I was thinking around a 2500 stall? Any suggestions on a moderately priced option?
View Quote


Given that it is going to be directly bolted to your 500HP monster, and it is not a trivial component to replace, I would not try to save too many pennies on a torque converter.  Pick something from a reputable brand.  I didn't catch what transmission nor how many teeth your flexplate is.  TCI for a turbo350/400 in that stall speed is < $500.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-240900
Link Posted: 6/9/2024 1:04:42 AM EDT
[#46]
Link Posted: 6/9/2024 1:54:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: brass] [#47]
Link Posted: 6/9/2024 3:44:54 PM EDT
[Last Edit: giantpune] [#48]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:


I'll have to count the teeth tomorrow.  

I don't mind spending a little $ if it's worth it. I honestly don't know what the difference is between a cheaper one and a more expensive one.
View Quote

Does this mean you intend to reuse your old stock flexplate?  I would probably say go with an upgraded one.  The stock one wasn't made to last behind 500 horsies.  The stock ones eventually break while being attached to V6 stock motors.  And no matter what you decide, the flexplate bolts are not meant to be reused.

An SFI rated flexplate for a SBC can be had for around $75.  Forged flexplates like $130.  And a new set of ARP is bolts < $20.
Link Posted: 6/9/2024 7:47:55 PM EDT
[#49]
Link Posted: 6/12/2024 6:46:35 PM EDT
[#50]
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