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Link Posted: 10/22/2018 5:19:26 PM EDT
[#1]
Yes, you can do it yourself!  I cheated a bit and had my nephew helping me, who has done a lot of tile jobs.  Have a level on hand and use it!
YouTube is great for tips and tricks.

Bill
Link Posted: 10/22/2018 7:03:58 PM EDT
[#2]
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Quoted:

I did the same thing with my small bath remodel. I used the same granite for the vanity counter, the shower curb, the shower seat, and the shower shelves. I think it really helped tie it all together, especially in the small space. The clear glass shower door also helped open up the small bathroom compared to a shower curtain.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/293432/72DFC113-ECDF-49CD-90B6-2617DB5EF380_jpeg-713365.JPG
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that looks sharp!  nice work.  i have to try one of those types of doors one day.  
i always volunteer when people at work want help with their bathrooms.  nothing like learning on someone else's job!  
Link Posted: 10/22/2018 9:56:55 PM EDT
[#3]
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Quoted:
mortar base shower pans are obsolete.  
they store gallons of water and promote mold and mildew growth on the shower floor.

either
1) get a pre-made plastic shower pan base from Mustee or similar, and set it in mortar
OR
2) get a foam base from Schluter, trim it to size, thinset Kerdi to it, and then set the floor tile directly on the Kerdi.

either way, you don't store water in your shower floor, there is no preslope and rubber folding to contend with, and it will never leak.

ar-jed
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Quoted:
The concrete shower pan is not at all difficult.  I'd say make one.  
IN THE NEGATIVE - If you cannot make a pan, you probably should not try tiling.
IN THE POSITIVE - If you even THINK you can tile, you CAN build your own concrete pan.
mortar base shower pans are obsolete.  
they store gallons of water and promote mold and mildew growth on the shower floor.

either
1) get a pre-made plastic shower pan base from Mustee or similar, and set it in mortar
OR
2) get a foam base from Schluter, trim it to size, thinset Kerdi to it, and then set the floor tile directly on the Kerdi.

either way, you don't store water in your shower floor, there is no preslope and rubber folding to contend with, and it will never leak.

ar-jed
Using modern pans works right up til you hit that  older house.
The inability to make an actual custom pan rto an arbitrary size then takes a really large bite out of your @ss.

If you learn how to do the 'old way' you can make anything correctly and make it work.

Adding in more modern materials like Kerdi and other membranes just makes it better and lets you eliminate
the old lead and copper pans and te soldered joints they often required.

Craftsmanship appears to be a very dead commodity.

I can still repair an actual lead pipe joint.
With asbestos gloves and the whole ine yards.

I though one of the older inspectors was going to go in a closet and beat off when he inspected a repaired joint.
I did leave the gloves beside the repair.

The gasoline torch was just for show.

I actually use acetylene very carefully.
It can burn a hole in the old lead pipe and joints in a flash.
Link Posted: 10/22/2018 10:22:21 PM EDT
[#4]
Tile work is easy. It’s the planning, prep, and clean up that sucks.

Go lurk around the John Bridge Tile Forums. True pros over there.  I taught myself from that sight.
Link Posted: 11/4/2018 6:26:20 PM EDT
[#5]
What is the preferred method for edging?  I'm trying to find a decent method to tying the shower together.
Link Posted: 11/4/2018 6:37:12 PM EDT
[#6]
Schluter everything.
Link Posted: 11/4/2018 6:49:11 PM EDT
[#7]
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Quoted:
What is the preferred method for edging?  I'm trying to find a decent method to tying the shower together.
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Trim metals for edges -  schluter has tons of profiles and colors to match what your trying to do.

Or you can possibly get bullnose tiles that match the field tile. Or you can get bullnose made in Phoenix Tempe there is a place called over the edge stone services and that’s a large part of their business. It’s not cheap to get it made

Then there are the thin liners usually made of a type of natural stone. Usually 1/2”-1” wide 12” long. Good for around accents and to finish off an edge.
Link Posted: 11/4/2018 7:13:46 PM EDT
[#8]
You can definitely learn to do it.
Link Posted: 11/4/2018 11:03:31 PM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
What is the preferred method for edging?  I'm trying to find a decent method to tying the shower together.
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per above, Schluter edge trim.

it comes in 87000 styles/colors/profiles/applications/etc

there will be a bin of it at HD or Lowes, and a bigger bin at the tile store, and an even bigger selection online.

seriously, there is nothing these people have not thought of.  















Link Posted: 11/22/2018 5:47:40 AM EDT
[#10]
Search for tile leveling system.
QEP Lash, Raimondi ,Spin Doctor are just a few of the systems out there.
These make leveling tiles and retaining vertical tiles much easier than when I began remodeling my home.
Link Posted: 11/23/2018 10:47:54 AM EDT
[#11]
I started with with tile floors and was going to leave the showers to a pro.  That all fell apart when the “pro” left me with a mess and I was scraping mastic off tiles at midnight.  I was able to do the job with a bit of planning.  It really can by quite rewarding.

So his issue was the shower stall wasn’t level on one wall.  Probably pretty common issue.  Well proper planning would have allowed him to kill that without it being noticed.  Instead he didn’t plan and made it worse.

So just remember.  Spend some time planning it out. Check your levels, draw your lines.  Some tile is much more forgiving, small subway tiles sometimes come with nubs for the grout lines for example.

Smaller tiles are easier in my opinion.

I use tape on everything.  It’s cheap insurance things done move.  Portland cement almost has a memory and will want to slide back.

Good luck OP and post pictures!
Link Posted: 11/30/2018 2:21:48 PM EDT
[#12]
Fairly easy. Get a tile book from Home Depot. Watch some YouTube videos. Or find a friend who know how.

You will need some basic tools and a wet saw.
Link Posted: 11/30/2018 7:10:51 PM EDT
[#13]
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Quoted:
I started with with tile floors and was going to leave the showers to a pro. That all fell apart when the “pro” left me with a mess and I was scraping mastic off tiles at midnight.  
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i LoL'd.

"shower" and "pro" and "mastic" in the space of two sentences...  

people of ARFCOM, if a "pro" shows up to do your shower and he tells you he is going to use mastic, EJECT.

tile adhesive AKA mastic HAS NO PLACE NEAR A SHOWER.

ar-jedi
Link Posted: 12/1/2018 5:40:51 AM EDT
[#14]
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Quoted:

i LoL'd.

"shower" and "pro" and "mastic" in the space of two sentences...  

people of ARFCOM, if a "pro" shows up to do your shower and he tells you he is going to use mastic, EJECT.

tile adhesive AKA mastic HAS NO PLACE NEAR A SHOWER.

ar-jedi
View Quote
Mastic has no place in the tile industry. I question the abilities of an installer if they use mastic because it's "good enough" vs mixing up a batch of a premium thinset instead.
Link Posted: 12/1/2018 9:55:16 AM EDT
[#15]
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Quoted:
Mastic has no place in the tile industry. I question the abilities of an installer if they use mastic because it's "good enough" vs mixing up a batch of a premium thinset instead.
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I would say that increasing installation speed and providing tile setters with three gallon buckets are both significant reasons for mastic to be present in the tile industry.
Link Posted: 12/1/2018 12:54:37 PM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Mastic has no place in the tile industry. I question the abilities of an installer if they use mastic because it's "good enough" vs mixing up a batch of a premium thinset instead.
View Quote
https://www.ar15.com/forums/General/Skim-coat-to-prep-for-tile-/139-2158668/#i75243245
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