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I think I see how the reset works, but I dont see what handles the disconnect function?
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Awesome! I’ve printed Hoffman’s v3 lower. Exchagef some emails with him as well. Super nice guy. Even gave me the STEP file so I could add my own roll mark and make other little tweaks.
Lower turned out perfect. Printed on an Anycubic Vyper with 3D Fuel Pro PLA. Sliced in PrusaSlicer. Haven’t built it out completely yet. But have test fit pretty much everything. Mag is snug but drops free. Receiver extension threads in with ease. Attached File This FRT add-on has my interest. Would make the trigger more enticing. Wonder if he’ll do them for the WOT as well. |
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Quoted: Awesome! I’ve printed Hoffman’s v3 lower. Exchagef some emails with him as well. Super nice guy. Even gave me the STEP file so I could add my own roll mark and make other little tweaks. Lower turned out perfect. Printed on an Anycubic Vyper with 3D Fuel Pro PLA. Sliced in PrusaSlicer. Haven’t built it out completely yet. But have test fit pretty much everything. Mag is snug but drops free. Receiver extension threads in with ease. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/460645/EE5CB917-2187-42C1-B3AB-31256FF84CBC_jpe-2268169.JPG This FRT add-on has my interest. Would make the trigger more enticing. Wonder if he’ll do them for the WOT as well. View Quote My updates to make this compatible with the MilSpec lower are coming along well so far, and think I'm on my final iteration. Regarding your last point, this does NOT modify Rare Breed's FRT. This adds parts and replaces a part to a milspec FCG, to emulate Rare Breed's FRT. You do not have to own Rare Breed's to make this work! |
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Quoted: My updates to make this compatible with the MilSpec lower are coming along well so far, and think I'm on my final iteration. Regarding your last point, this does NOT modify Rare Breed's FRT. This adds parts and replaces a part to a milspec FCG, to emulate Rare Breed's FRT. You do not have to own Rare Breed's to make this work! View Quote Well shit. Even better. I don’t have Instagram. Checked his YT channel and didn’t see anything yet. So was just assuming. Is it a 3 position? Safe-Regular-Forced (or vice versa). |
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Quoted: Well shit. Even better. I don’t have Instagram. Checked his YT channel and didn’t see anything yet. So was just assuming. Is it a 3 position? Safe-Regular-Forced (or vice versa). View Quote No, this is just Safe-Forced. However, there is another designer working on a Safe-Semi-Forced FRT called the 'Invisiboogle-CBT'. It's currently in beta, though. I have printed it, but haven't installed it yet. |
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Quoted: No, this is just Safe-Forced. However, there is another designer working on a Safe-Semi-Forced FRT called the 'Invisiboogle-CBT'. It's currently in beta, though. I have printed it, but haven't installed it yet. View Quote Nice! Will have to go snag the files and print one as well. That name too |
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Quoted: The sear on the trigger, and the 'safety' is what holds the trigger until the bolt is locked and you pull the trigger again. View Quote Ahh, I think I see now. Tail on the hammer hits the thing that takes the place of the disconnector, resetting trigger to where it catches the hammer, the "safety" locks it into this position. Closing bolt hits the safety, allowing trigger to be pulled for the next shot. Can we call it a Fully Semi Automatic Safety? |
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Welp, got it working (dry fire) on a milspec lower!
ended up tweaking all the parts. still tweaking the safety for a bit more engagement on the BCG. I'll post the files on odysee once things are tweaked to my satisfaction. |
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Quoted: Ahh, I think I see now. Tail on the hammer hits the thing that takes the place of the disconnector, resetting trigger to where it catches the hammer, the "safety" locks it into this position. Closing bolt hits the safety, allowing trigger to be pulled for the next shot. Can we call it a Fully Semi Automatic Safety? View Quote Yup, you got it. |
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I have a couple of Hoffman lowers, this might be good to try out a forced reset trigger. Except I went to the hoffmantactical website and it appears he has exceeded his bandwidth. It must be very popular.
I'll have to look around to see if I can find it somewhere else. |
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Quoted: I have a couple of Hoffman lowers, this might be good to try out a forced reset trigger. Except I went to the hoffmantactical website and it appears he has exceeded his bandwidth. It must be very popular. I'll have to look around to see if I can find it somewhere else. View Quote he has a .org backup |
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Quoted: No, this is just Safe-Forced. However, there is another designer working on a Safe-Semi-Forced FRT called the 'Invisiboogle-CBT'. It's currently in beta, though. I have printed it, but haven't installed it yet. View Quote Mine binds in boogle mode. Bolt doesn't move full stroke. I think the metal insert is not thin enough to move past the disconnector but I have other projects at the moment. |
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Quoted: Mine binds in boogle mode. Bolt doesn't move full stroke. I think the metal insert is not thin enough to move past the disconnector but I have other projects at the moment. View Quote That metal plate is probably too tall... file a little bit off the top, test, then repeat until the bolt doesn't drag. I had the same issue with this until I lowered the hammer/plate interface. |
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Finally happy with the mods... Had to tweak every part. A few options on the block and safety are included. Have not livefire tested, yet.
https://thangs.com/scul/HT-FRT%20milspec%20remix-48971?manualModelView=true |
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I can't wait to get home. Really need to get my ender3 set up and printing. Might be a few months, but I would love to do a side by side with my frt.
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Quoted: That metal plate is probably too tall... file a little bit off the top, test, then repeat until the bolt doesn't drag. I had the same issue with this until I lowered the hammer/plate interface. View Quote Tall, probably not. Wide, yes. I had to take down the width before install as it wouldn't slide past the disconnector. Probably need more. I have 2.5 builds in progress right now so that is the least of my worries. When my reweld builds are done I'll look I to it again. |
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I assume that's a wear part, right? Having the metal BCG hitting it repeatedly has got to cause failure at some point, no?
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Have you tested the results of the outcome if this part breaks while being used?
ie, What's the mean time to failure for it? Does part of the plastic fall into the mechanism resulting in the entire gun stopping until it's fixed? Does it cause some other sort of unintended consequence? |
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Quoted: Have you tested the results of the outcome if this part breaks while being used? ie, What's the mean time to failure for it? Does part of the plastic fall into the mechanism resulting in the entire gun stopping until it's fixed? Does it cause some other sort of unintended consequence? View Quote No idea. I saw the Hoffman Files yesterday just before I posted OP, and did all the design testing yesterday afternoon. I'd suspect the safety just deforms to where the BCG doesn't engage properly. No idea if something will break off and jam up the rifle. However, as this is a SAFE / FRT model, if the safety doesn't release, the hammer shouldn't fall. |
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the Invisiboogle-CBT looks interesting..
Grabbed your files and going to take a look at it. I have a CNC engraver that can do light mill work. Might try to carve out the highwear parts out of 4140. |
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Quoted: Do you think the length of the sear hump changes much? Noticed on my Noreern lowers it seems shorter. *edit seems that is not an issue. https://i.imgur.com/KQMWKQZ.jpg View Quote Yup, not an issue... main index is off the oval cutout in the upper That said, yes, your sear hump is shorter than mine... |
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Quoted: the Invisiboogle-CBT looks interesting.. Grabbed your files and going to take a look at it. I have a CNC engraver that can do light mill work. Might try to carve out the highwear parts out of 4140. View Quote I expect the safety to be highest, followed by the plate. I've not done much testing to back that up, though. |
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Quoted: I expect the safety to be highest, followed by the plate. I've not done much testing to back that up, though. View Quote I know a guy that got a laser cutter, and hes rough cut some obscure repair parts for me ( pistol hands, on a couple of very old Japaneses revolvers. got to love customers.). Might run the the flat pieces over and see what it would cost to get a set zapped out. |
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Quoted: Finally happy with the mods... Had to tweak every part. A few options on the block and safety are included. Have not livefire tested, yet. https://thangs.com/scul/HT-FRT%20milspec%20remix-48971?manualModelView=true https://i.imgur.com/pce5SJo.jpg View Quote omg duh.. just noticed the OP name matches.. so.. yeah.. its 12:31 and my brain is pudding. well then cheers, as I just pulled the odysee version off the printer. |
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Quoted: omg duh.. just noticed the OP name matches.. so.. yeah.. its 12:31 and my brain is pudding. well then cheers, as I just pulled the odysee version off the printer. View Quote Yes, that's the same. Also, this should work with either low shelf or high (with my single high shelf lower) |
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Quoted: Yes, that's the same. Also, this should work with either low shelf or high (with my single high shelf lower) View Quote so how much motion is expected in the safety? it doesnt seem to be able to move far before getting stopped.. maybe 3mm? also maybe dumb but the disconnector spring is very similar to the AR-15 bolt hold open spring - havent tried it yet, but any reason not to use that - esp since it is going to be disused. |
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Quoted: Do you think the length of the sear hump changes much? Noticed on my Noreern lowers it seems shorter. *edit seems that is not an issue. https://i.imgur.com/KQMWKQZ.jpg View Quote Can 100% confirm, it was not an issue. |
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any thoughts on materials? it seems like your finger vs the bolt carrier thus some forces involved. what do you guys think?
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View Quote |
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Quoted: Carbon fiber nylon, naturally View Quote yeah, not ever a bad choice.. i dont have any tho.. i do have some polymax pc.. my test prints are in ABS, but I dont think that will hold up long. if this cant handle 500 rounds without breaking then next up might be make the part with a dremel and some 1/16 sheets by making a jig. |
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PLA+ can give you a good proof of concept.
Hypothetically one could run 40-50 rounds through a 10.5" with a can and not see much wear at all I would think? |
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