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Posted: 5/24/2010 7:17:09 AM EDT
I notice a few on Arfcom have some surplus deuce and a halves. Couple of questions for you guys, as I am interested in joining the club!



Where are some sources for purchasing?



What needs to be done to license & make street legal?



Does anything need to be done mechanically right away?



I notice some go for between $1500-2000, how much additional have you spent to get it "on the road?"



Most important, how can I convince the wife?!
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 7:26:50 AM EDT
[#1]
Can't answer to many of your questions, but I know http://www.govliquidation.com/ is a good source for them.  

Zach
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 8:37:09 AM EDT
[#2]
Search for member "Bubbles", who has made and participated in threads about this. (I can't find any right now).
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 8:41:03 AM EDT
[#3]
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 8:44:10 AM EDT
[#4]
I have a 1971 Jeep Corp. M35A2. I bought mine from an individual. It already had a title so it was easy to transfer. You should check out steelsoldiers.com pleanty of good info there.
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 8:55:21 AM EDT
[#5]
How doees it run? Any common problems?
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 8:55:24 AM EDT
[#6]







Here's mine.



I bought two at gl, and my marine buddy down the street wanted one. So there are two deuces on my little dirt road.



There are a ton of things that can be wrong with them. I'd suggest allot of reading at steelsoldiers.com, and if/when you are serious, check them out in person if you can (Sometimes an SS guy will do it for you too).



I didn't check mine out before bidding, but I knew from SS that the group that mine were part off were all in decent shape.




Link Posted: 5/24/2010 8:59:44 AM EDT
[#7]
Gov Liqudators has the most available.  With Gov Liq paper work is a hassel (and frequentlr not accurate) and an additional cost. Their customer service sucks ass.
GSA auctions are WAY easier and cheaper to deal with.
The days of the 700$ duece are over.
Check out Steelsoldiers. All questions have been answered there a million times over.
I have one for sale now on New Orleans Craigslist.

They are street legal s they sit. No CDL needed. All of mine have started and drove home. Brakes are another story...

ETA: If you are willing to pay 2k for one, you can get an A2 almost aytime.
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 9:08:12 AM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
Gov Liqudators has the most available.  With Gov Liq paper work is a hassel (and frequentlr not accurate) and an additional cost. Their customer service sucks ass.
GSA auctions are WAY easier and cheaper to deal with.
The days of the 700$ duece are over.
Check out Steelsoldiers. All questions have been answered there a million times over.
I have one for sale now on New Orleans Craigslist.

They are street legal s they sit. No CDL needed. All of mine have started and drove home. Brakes are another story...

ETA: If you are willing to pay 2k for one, you can get an A2 almost aytime.


GSA auctions? Could you elaborate please?
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 9:14:55 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f308/justsomeguylookin/deucewplate.jpg


Here's mine.

I bought two at gl, and my marine buddy down the street wanted one. So there are two deuces on my little dirt road.

There are a ton of things that can be wrong with them. I'd suggest allot of reading at steelsoldiers.com, and if/when you are serious, check them out in person if you can (Sometimes an SS guy will do it for you too).

I didn't check mine out before bidding, but I knew from SS that the group that mine were part off were all in decent shape.



Best license plate ever.

vmax84

Link Posted: 5/24/2010 9:17:39 AM EDT
[#10]
I would love to have a deuce and a half or a 5 ton.   Wish they had some good ones at Drexel Gardens for cheap....  
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 9:28:27 AM EDT
[#11]
Did they make them with buckets or booms?  I'm looking at a bucket van in my future, but this seems more badass, cheaper, and more versatile.  win/win/win.
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 9:35:31 AM EDT
[#12]
Here's a pic of mine when I first got it



I've since added a winch and a S-280 shelter.
Mine started right up and drove home. I love it.

ETA: Mine was less than $2,000 and had just over 12,000 miles.
Goes great, very fun to drive but they are loud.
Here in Kansas you can register it as a military antique.
Registration is $70 for LIFE.
Insurance is $100 a year.

What is not to like?
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 9:38:35 AM EDT
[#13]
There are wrecker versions, but I think those are mostly 5 ton trucks now.  I believe they did make some in 2.5 ton versions, but they were really not up to the heavier tasks, and are much less common than 5 tons.

I won my GL auction back in early February, for a Deuce with winch.  Had to make corrections to my EUC paperwork, and it was received by GL on March 9.  Still do not have my Deuce.  According to what I have learned on the Steel Soldiers website, first time EUC's can take up to 60-70 business days from the time GL receives them.  That means I am on Day 54 for mine, but have been waiting more than 3.5 months.

In the meantime, I am hoping no one is "appropriating" parts off of my Deuce.  It's only 50 miles away from me, so I am going to take a look at it this week.

Sucks, but it cost me less than $2500.  I think it will crank if I bring the right equipment with me when I pick it up.

LC
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 9:38:55 AM EDT
[#14]
Quoted:
I notice a few on Arfcom have some surplus deuce and a halves. Couple of questions for you guys, as I am interested in joining the club!

Where are some sources for purchasing?


GovLiquidation if you don't mind getting an unknown truck, and have the means to move it if it doesn't run.

What needs to be done to license & make street legal?


Not sure as we purchased ours privately.

Does anything need to be done mechanically right away?


From what I understand the trucks at government auction vary from good for only scrap to drive it away.

I notice some go for between $1500-2000, how much additional have you spent to get it "on the road?"


Ours was $5k privately, with a trailer.

Most important, how can I convince the wife?!


Sorry can't help you there.
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 9:41:04 AM EDT
[#15]



Quoted:




Mine started right up and drove home. I love it.


Mine started right up, and ran about 10 miles.



Seems the numbnut AF painter dumped the rest of the paint in the tank. It gummed up, and needed a good cleaning and filter changes.



 
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 9:51:15 AM EDT
[#16]
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 9:51:53 AM EDT
[#17]
www.100dollarman.com
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 9:54:23 AM EDT
[#18]
Something to keep in mind, while your first EUC can take a bit (mine took about 30 to 45 days)
they get quicker as you go. My EUCs now clear in about 7 days.

Some people have had issues with GL, I have had zero issues and have bought quite a bit of stuff.
I keep buying and am very happy.
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 10:04:40 AM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:

In the meantime, I am hoping no one is "appropriating" parts off of my Deuce.


that's something to think about with govliquidation.  just because it looked one way when you inspected it doesn't mean it'll look the same or have the same parts when you pick it up.  my first auction win got its front bumper pretzeled by some jackoff fuck with a forklift.  my second auction win had its oil pan and fuel line crushed in and a gladhand broke off the back.  neither started on the lot.  i told them to shove the first one up their ass and keith_j, the deuce whisperer, fixed up the second for me:





you need to do your research on registering your truck as it's very different from state to state.  i ended up going with military plates.  $50/5 years, $113 year for insurance, no inspection ever needed but my use is restricted to maintenance, shows and whatnot.  works for me though, the once a week or so when i go cruise around in it i'm keeping the batteries charged

ETA:  as you can see from the bumper on the truck they ran into it as well.

here's some pictures of the pampering done by GL employees






Link Posted: 5/24/2010 10:06:19 AM EDT
[#20]
Pm me for details on someone who may have a 5 ton M54 cargo for sale.
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 10:18:12 AM EDT
[#21]
Just for info, here is the timeline for my deuce purchase:



I sent the EUC in about a week and a half after the auction ended.








                     

                   

                   

                     

                     

                   

                   

                     

                     

                   

                   

                     

                     

                   

                   

                     

                     



Submission of EUC Pending10/01/2009
EUC revisions needed10/07/2009
EUC sent to Battle Creek10/13/2009
Approved12/03/2009
Customer Notified12/03/2009




I found a good GA hauler, and he stuck both trucks on the back of his truck, and hauled them to NH.
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 10:19:00 AM EDT
[#22]
How tall is one of these trucks? Including the standard exhaust stack?

I'm looking to get one eventually, but right now, I'm designing an outbuilding and need to know how big the garage door needs to be to get one of these inside to work on it.

How tall is one with the canvas cover over the cargo bed?

It looks like the county is going to limit me tp 10 foot walls, and that's may even be pushing it. I can extend the door up into the gable, and use scissor trusses to gain a little headroom, but not much.
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 10:20:05 AM EDT
[#23]



Quoted:


I have a 1971 Jeep Corp. M35A2. I bought mine from an individual. It already had a title so it was easy to transfer. You should check out steelsoldiers.com pleanty of good info there.

http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w331/tacgear01/P1010841-1.jpg


nice! parking that thing would violate my HoA




 
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 10:26:55 AM EDT
[#24]
my first modification

Link Posted: 5/24/2010 10:28:36 AM EDT
[#25]



Quoted:


How tall is one of these trucks? Including the standard exhaust stack?



I'm looking to get one eventually, but right now, I'm designing an outbuilding and need to know how big the garage door needs to be to get one of these inside to work on it.



How tall is one with the canvas cover over the cargo bed?



It looks like the county is going to limit me tp 10 foot walls, and that's may even be pushing it. I can extend the door up into the gable, and use scissor trusses to gain a little headroom, but not much.


Height isn't listed, but here's some info:


















































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































MRC:Requirement Name:Requirement:
AAFZBODY MATERIALSTEEL AND WOOD
AAXZCYLINDER QUANTITY6
AEXRBATTERY QUANTITY2
AGDHWHEEL QUANTITY6
AGDJDRIVE WHEEL QUANTITY6
AGEAIII ENGINE/MOTOR MANUFACTURER CODE AND MODEL NUMBE19207 LD465-1
AKDJPRIME MOVER TYPEDIESEL ENGINE
ALKKENGINE BRAKE HORSEPOWER140.0
ALKLENGINE HORSEPOWER RATING SPEED IN RPM2600.0
ANLJBATTERY VOLTAGE RATING IN VOLTS12.0
ATWQREVERSE SPEED QUANTITY1
AXJDTRANSMISSION TYPEMANUAL
AXJHFORWARD SPEED QUANTITY5
AYTCHINGE LOCATIONBOTTOM
BSWHSTAKE TYPELATTICE PANEL
BTLYSEATING CAPACITY3
CBBLFEATURES PROVIDEDTAILGATE AND TARPAULIN AND TOP BOWS AND TOWING PINTLE HOOK AND TRAILER BRAKE CONNECTION AND UNDERWATER FORDING SYSTEM
CHZGTRAILER BRAKE CONNECTION TYPEAIR
CNTJRATED LOAD CAPACITY2.50 TONS
CNTKDRIVE AXLE LOCATIONFRONT AND REAR
CNTLAXLE DRIVE TYPEDOUBLE REDUCTION
CNTNPOWER DIVIDER UNITNOT INCLUDED
CNTPFRONT AXLE ENGAGING MECHANISM TYPEAUTOMATIC
CNTQREAR WHEEL MOUNTING TYPEDUAL
CNTRNOMINAL WHEELBASE154.00 INCHES
CNTSFRONT WHEEL TREAD NOMINAL WIDTH67.75 INCHES
CNTTREAR WHEEL TREAD NOMINAL WIDTH70.00 INCHES
CNTWMULTIFUEL DESIGN FEATUREINCLUDED
CNTYTRANSMISSION ADJUNCT TYPETRANSFER
CNTZTRANSMISSION ADJUNCT SPEED QUANTITY2
CNYSCAB TYPECONVENTIONAL
CNYTCAB ROOF TYPEOPEN
CNYWBRAKE ACTUATION METHODAIR AND HYDRAULIC
CNZDTAILGATE OPERATION METHODMANUAL
CNZPCARGO AREA NOMINAL LENGTH147.00 INCHES
CNZQCARGO AREA NOMINAL WIDTH88.00 INCHES
CNZRCARGO AREA NOMINAL HEIGHT60.00 INCHES
CPJWIII BODY MANUFACTURER CODE AND MODEL NUMBER19207 8332225
CPJXIII CHASSIS MANUFACTURER CODE AND MODEL NUMBER19207 M45A2
CPKCIII VEHICLE CURB WEIGHT13400.0 POUNDS
CPKDVEHICLE MAXIMUM GROSS WEIGHT23800.00 POUNDS
CPLGCAB DOOR QUANTITY2
SR-1MANUFACTURERS CODE81349
SR-1NON-DEFINITIVE GOVERNMENT SPEC/STD REFERENCEMILT46780
SR-5MANUFACTURERS CODE19207
SR-5DESIGN CONTROL REFERENCE8736581
ZZZTNONDEFINITIVE SPEC/STD DATAM35A2 MODEL AND TRUCK,CARGO TYPE



















End Item Code:End Item Text:
ANK2 1/2 TON VEHICLE CONFIGURATION, MULTI FUEL (TACTICAL VEHICLES)




 
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 10:29:15 AM EDT
[#26]
The source for all things military vehicle related; http://www.steelsoldiers.com
Andy..
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 10:29:50 AM EDT
[#27]
Quoted:
How tall is one of these trucks? Including the standard exhaust stack?

I'm looking to get one eventually, but right now, I'm designing an outbuilding and need to know how big the garage door needs to be to get one of these inside to work on it.

How tall is one with the canvas cover over the cargo bed?

It looks like the county is going to limit me tp 10 foot walls, and that's may even be pushing it. I can extend the door up into the gable, and use scissor trusses to gain a little headroom, but not much.


They are over ten feet tall.  I am planning on using 14' 4x6 inch posts to cover mine.  I figure 2 feet in the ground, so I have 12 feet to put my rafters on.  Gonna need the extra room, so that is my plan.  Not sure if I want to make a concrete pad or just use crushed limestone.

ETA:  They are more than 8 feet wide and something like 19 and a half feet long.  Going just from memory, I had the specs written down but seem to have misplaced them.  Dammit.

LC
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 10:37:02 AM EDT
[#28]



Quoted:


I notice a few on Arfcom have some surplus deuce and a halves. Couple of questions for you guys, as I am interested in joining the club!



Where are some sources for purchasing?



What needs to be done to license & make street legal?



Does anything need to be done mechanically right away?



I notice some go for between $1500-2000, how much additional have you spent to get it "on the road?"



Most important, how can I convince the wife?!


BRAKES!!!!  The truck has 6 wheel cylinders, each one is a probable leak.  Since the brake system is sealed, lost fluid pulls the wheel cylinder cups inward.  Lose enough fluid and no brakes.  Why is this so common?  Crappy parts made by the lowest bidder.  At the end of service, wheel cylinders were a throw-away item, only they were made with inferior springs which lacked piston cup expanders.  Fortunately, the wheel cylinder rebuild kits available have the PROPER piston cup expanders.  They are cheap and super easy to install, only special tool is a wheel cylinder hone and a few quarts of DOT 5 brake fluid.



When doing the brakes, check the shoe lining thickness (relining kits are half the price of new shoes and like above, super easy to install).  Repack bearings, remembering the little cube of cork under the seal tang to keep gear oil from migrating.  RTV instead of the useless paper gasket on the drive flanges.



Do you have a smooth surfaced area to work on it?  A must.  A good hydraulic engine hoist can be used to remove the duals, I've used a long 3/8" extension between the duals and then used the hoist's hook to hold the dual's weight.  Once the bearing nuts are removed, the wheel is easily pulled off.  Other dual wheel jacks/dollies are available but cost $500 or more.  Worth their weight in GOLD because you don't mess with lug nuts.





 
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 10:40:47 AM EDT
[#29]



Quoted:



Quoted:

How tall is one of these trucks? Including the standard exhaust stack?



I'm looking to get one eventually, but right now, I'm designing an outbuilding and need to know how big the garage door needs to be to get one of these inside to work on it.



How tall is one with the canvas cover over the cargo bed?



It looks like the county is going to limit me tp 10 foot walls, and that's may even be pushing it. I can extend the door up into the gable, and use scissor trusses to gain a little headroom, but not much.




They are over ten feet tall.  I am planning on using 14' 4x6 inch posts to cover mine.  I figure 2 feet in the ground, so I have 12 feet to put my rafters on.  Gonna need the extra room, so that is my plan.  Not sure if I want to make a concrete pad or just use crushed limestone.



ETA:  They are more than 8 feet wide and something like 19 and a half feet long.  Going just from memory, I had the specs written down but seem to have misplaced them.  Dammit.



LC


Can be easily reduced to under 10 feet with removal of the stack, cab and cargo cover.  



 
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 10:46:11 AM EDT
[#30]



Quoted:




BRAKES!!!!  The truck has 6 wheel cylinders, each one is a probable leak.  Since the brake system is sealed, lost fluid pulls the wheel cylinder cups inward.  Lose enough fluid and no brakes.  Why is this so common?  Crappy parts made by the lowest bidder.  At the end of service, wheel cylinders were a throw-away item, only they were made with inferior springs which lacked piston cup expanders.  Fortunately, the wheel cylinder rebuild kits available have the PROPER piston cup expanders.  They are cheap and super easy to install, only special tool is a wheel cylinder hone and a few quarts of DOT 5 brake fluid.



When doing the brakes, check the shoe lining thickness (relining kits are half the price of new shoes and like above, super easy to install).  Repack bearings, remembering the little cube of cork under the seal tang to keep gear oil from migrating.  RTV instead of the useless paper gasket on the drive flanges.



Do you have a smooth surfaced area to work on it?  A must.  A good hydraulic engine hoist can be used to remove the duals, I've used a long 3/8" extension between the duals and then used the hoist's hook to hold the dual's weight.  Once the bearing nuts are removed, the wheel is easily pulled off.  Other dual wheel jacks/dollies are available but cost $500 or more.  Worth their weight in GOLD because you don't mess with lug nuts.



 

Thanks for a bunch of good advice.



Who do you get the wheel cylinder rebuild kits from? Have a Part#?





 
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 10:57:16 AM EDT
[#31]



Quoted:





Quoted:



BRAKES!!!!  The truck has 6 wheel cylinders, each one is a probable leak.  Since the brake system is sealed, lost fluid pulls the wheel cylinder cups inward.  Lose enough fluid and no brakes.  Why is this so common?  Crappy parts made by the lowest bidder.  At the end of service, wheel cylinders were a throw-away item, only they were made with inferior springs which lacked piston cup expanders.  Fortunately, the wheel cylinder rebuild kits available have the PROPER piston cup expanders.  They are cheap and super easy to install, only special tool is a wheel cylinder hone and a few quarts of DOT 5 brake fluid.



When doing the brakes, check the shoe lining thickness (relining kits are half the price of new shoes and like above, super easy to install).  Repack bearings, remembering the little cube of cork under the seal tang to keep gear oil from migrating.  RTV instead of the useless paper gasket on the drive flanges.



Do you have a smooth surfaced area to work on it?  A must.  A good hydraulic engine hoist can be used to remove the duals, I've used a long 3/8" extension between the duals and then used the hoist's hook to hold the dual's weight.  Once the bearing nuts are removed, the wheel is easily pulled off.  Other dual wheel jacks/dollies are available but cost $500 or more.  Worth their weight in GOLD because you don't mess with lug nuts.



 

Thanks for a bunch of good advice.



Who do you get the wheel cylinder rebuild kits from? Have a Part#?



 


NAPA.  Don't know the part number off the top of my head but they have them.  Standard part.  Because all these trucks use silicone DOT 5 brake fluid, corrosion is minimal.  OD Iron and other deuce parts places online have the kits.  Shipping on the kits is also MUCH LESS.  But having a spare rebuilt cylinder is a good idea in any case along with a spare set of brake shoes, springs and retainers.  Get a master cylinder rebuild kit along with spare brake hoses for the full coverage.



Now finding the copper sealing washers can be a problem.  NAPA has these too but you will have to order them.  Get a dozen of each, there are 2 slightly different diameters, one inside and one outside.  Far easier to pull the banjo bolt than the double flare nut as these love to seize.  Threads in the banjo bolt are wet with brake fluid so they won't seize
.



BRAKES BRAKES BRAKES!!!  You have double the weight of most vehicles out there!!!  And only a single circuit, any leak means NO BRAKES!!!  





 
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 11:03:21 AM EDT
[#32]
Quoted:

Quoted:
Quoted:
How tall is one of these trucks? Including the standard exhaust stack?

I'm looking to get one eventually, but right now, I'm designing an outbuilding and need to know how big the garage door needs to be to get one of these inside to work on it.

How tall is one with the canvas cover over the cargo bed?

It looks like the county is going to limit me tp 10 foot walls, and that's may even be pushing it. I can extend the door up into the gable, and use scissor trusses to gain a little headroom, but not much.


They are over ten feet tall.  I am planning on using 14' 4x6 inch posts to cover mine.  I figure 2 feet in the ground, so I have 12 feet to put my rafters on.  Gonna need the extra room, so that is my plan.  Not sure if I want to make a concrete pad or just use crushed limestone.

ETA:  They are more than 8 feet wide and something like 19 and a half feet long.  Going just from memory, I had the specs written down but seem to have misplaced them.  Dammit.

LC

Can be easily reduced to under 10 feet with removal of the stack, cab and cargo cover.  
 


Yeah, I could go that route, but it is my understanding that putting the cargo cover on can be a bitch.  I'm figuring on just keeping it on most of the time and storing the truck in the shelter to protect it from the elements.  Sounds like a smooth floor would be a good thing to work on this beast.

LC
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 11:43:54 AM EDT
[#33]
Try the steel soldiers classifieds also, there are some good deals on there now.
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 11:48:56 AM EDT
[#34]
Quoted:

BRAKES BRAKES BRAKES!!!  You have double the weight of most vehicles out there!!!  And only a single circuit, any leak means NO BRAKES!!!  

 


i have all my maintenance performed by an expert





Link Posted: 5/24/2010 11:53:14 AM EDT
[#35]
Quoted:
How tall is one of these trucks? Including the standard exhaust stack?

I'm looking to get one eventually, but right now, I'm designing an outbuilding and need to know how big the garage door needs to be to get one of these inside to work on it.

How tall is one with the canvas cover over the cargo bed?

It looks like the county is going to limit me tp 10 foot walls, and that's may even be pushing it. I can extend the door up into the gable, and use scissor trusses to gain a little headroom, but not much.


10' 4" to the top of the stack is the official height.
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 1:10:17 PM EDT
[#36]



Quoted:



Quoted:



BRAKES BRAKES BRAKES!!!  You have double the weight of most vehicles out there!!!  And only a single circuit, any leak means NO BRAKES!!!  



 




i have all my maintenance performed by an expert




http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y104/weisseluft/me_at_2010_deuce_party.jpg



http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y104/weisseluft/deuce_dual_lift.jpg





That guy has bony knees!  Look how they have ruined those jeans!  And can withstand being on gravel.  That is one bad dude there.



 
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 6:29:24 PM EDT
[#37]
Called GL today to get an update on my Deuce, no return call.  Gonna go to the GL site in a day or two and see if I can inspect the truck.

I am not encouraged.

LC
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 6:39:01 PM EDT
[#38]
I've been pulling the ol' lady's leg to let me get one... just got whacked upside the head with a textbook.

Hoping to nab one of these trucks after my deployment next year
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 6:42:07 PM EDT
[#39]
Quoted:
my first modification

http://i49.tinypic.com/slr0us.jpg


easily the best and most useful Deuce mod evah!

Link Posted: 5/24/2010 6:42:48 PM EDT
[#40]
Quoted:

Quoted:
Quoted:

BRAKES BRAKES BRAKES!!!  You have double the weight of most vehicles out there!!!  And only a single circuit, any leak means NO BRAKES!!!  

 


i have all my maintenance performed by an expert

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y104/weisseluft/me_at_2010_deuce_party.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y104/weisseluft/deuce_dual_lift.jpg


That guy has bony knees!  Look how they have ruined those jeans!  And can withstand being on gravel.  That is one bad dude there.
 


I wish he was in Kansas........I could use some help with my brakes.........
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 7:05:32 PM EDT
[#41]
Quoted:

Quoted:

Quoted:

BRAKES!!!!  The truck has 6 wheel cylinders, each one is a probable leak.  Since the brake system is sealed, lost fluid pulls the wheel cylinder cups inward.  Lose enough fluid and no brakes.  Why is this so common?  Crappy parts made by the lowest bidder.  At the end of service, wheel cylinders were a throw-away item, only they were made with inferior springs which lacked piston cup expanders.  Fortunately, the wheel cylinder rebuild kits available have the PROPER piston cup expanders.  They are cheap and super easy to install, only special tool is a wheel cylinder hone and a few quarts of DOT 5 brake fluid.

When doing the brakes, check the shoe lining thickness (relining kits are half the price of new shoes and like above, super easy to install).  Repack bearings, remembering the little cube of cork under the seal tang to keep gear oil from migrating.  RTV instead of the useless paper gasket on the drive flanges.

Do you have a smooth surfaced area to work on it?  A must.  A good hydraulic engine hoist can be used to remove the duals, I've used a long 3/8" extension between the duals and then used the hoist's hook to hold the dual's weight.  Once the bearing nuts are removed, the wheel is easily pulled off.  Other dual wheel jacks/dollies are available but cost $500 or more.  Worth their weight in GOLD because you don't mess with lug nuts.

 




Thanks for a bunch of good advice.

Who do you get the wheel cylinder rebuild kits from? Have a Part#?

 

NAPA.  Don't know the part number off the top of my head but they have them.  Standard part.  Because all these trucks use silicone DOT 5 brake fluid, corrosion is minimal.  OD Iron and other deuce parts places online have the kits.  Shipping on the kits is also MUCH LESS.  But having a spare rebuilt cylinder is a good idea in any case along with a spare set of brake shoes, springs and retainers.  Get a master cylinder rebuild kit along with spare brake hoses for the full coverage.

Now finding the copper sealing washers can be a problem.  NAPA has these too but you will have to order them.  Get a dozen of each, there are 2 slightly different diameters, one inside and one outside.  Far easier to pull the banjo bolt than the double flare nut as these love to seize.  Threads in the banjo bolt are wet with brake fluid so they won't seize .

BRAKES BRAKES BRAKES!!!  You have double the weight of most vehicles out there!!!  And only a single circuit, any leak means NO BRAKES!!!  

 


Any way to convert to a dual circuit? Single circuit is....not desirable.
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 7:16:57 PM EDT
[#42]
Quoted:
Quoted:

Quoted:

Quoted:

BRAKES!!!!  The truck has 6 wheel cylinders, each one is a probable leak.  Since the brake system is sealed, lost fluid pulls the wheel cylinder cups inward.  Lose enough fluid and no brakes.  Why is this so common?  Crappy parts made by the lowest bidder.  At the end of service, wheel cylinders were a throw-away item, only they were made with inferior springs which lacked piston cup expanders.  Fortunately, the wheel cylinder rebuild kits available have the PROPER piston cup expanders.  They are cheap and super easy to install, only special tool is a wheel cylinder hone and a few quarts of DOT 5 brake fluid.

When doing the brakes, check the shoe lining thickness (relining kits are half the price of new shoes and like above, super easy to install).  Repack bearings, remembering the little cube of cork under the seal tang to keep gear oil from migrating.  RTV instead of the useless paper gasket on the drive flanges.

Do you have a smooth surfaced area to work on it?  A must.  A good hydraulic engine hoist can be used to remove the duals, I've used a long 3/8" extension between the duals and then used the hoist's hook to hold the dual's weight.  Once the bearing nuts are removed, the wheel is easily pulled off.  Other dual wheel jacks/dollies are available but cost $500 or more.  Worth their weight in GOLD because you don't mess with lug nuts.

 




Thanks for a bunch of good advice.

Who do you get the wheel cylinder rebuild kits from? Have a Part#?

 

NAPA.  Don't know the part number off the top of my head but they have them.  Standard part.  Because all these trucks use silicone DOT 5 brake fluid, corrosion is minimal.  OD Iron and other deuce parts places online have the kits.  Shipping on the kits is also MUCH LESS.  But having a spare rebuilt cylinder is a good idea in any case along with a spare set of brake shoes, springs and retainers.  Get a master cylinder rebuild kit along with spare brake hoses for the full coverage.

Now finding the copper sealing washers can be a problem.  NAPA has these too but you will have to order them.  Get a dozen of each, there are 2 slightly different diameters, one inside and one outside.  Far easier to pull the banjo bolt than the double flare nut as these love to seize.  Threads in the banjo bolt are wet with brake fluid so they won't seize .

BRAKES BRAKES BRAKES!!!  You have double the weight of most vehicles out there!!!  And only a single circuit, any leak means NO BRAKES!!!  

 


Any way to convert to a dual circuit? Single circuit is....not desirable.


later contract air force deuces had dual circuits, you can tell by a brake light on the dash most times.  other than that i understand they are not easy to convert.

Link Posted: 5/24/2010 7:21:02 PM EDT
[#43]
They are street legal as is.

Quoted:


I didn't check mine out before bidding, but I knew from SS that the group that mine were part off were all in decent shape.



Same here, same auction and base too!

XMission we gotta get the siblings together at some point...  

Link Posted: 5/24/2010 7:25:18 PM EDT
[#44]
Relevant to my interests.
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 7:29:06 PM EDT
[#45]
Mine started and I drove it home from the Armory.

Here it is from Saturday.

The flag, mount and Browning are my only after market additions

Link Posted: 5/24/2010 8:12:13 PM EDT
[#46]
Quoted:
Mine started and I drove it home from the Armory.

Here it is from Saturday.

The flag, mount and Browning are my only after market additions

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a80/notso/The%20Gunny%20at%20the%20Gun%20Shop/HTFRLee015.jpg



Looks like The Gunny on the browning. . .
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 8:16:55 PM EDT
[#47]
Quoted:
Quoted:

Quoted:
Quoted:

BRAKES BRAKES BRAKES!!!  You have double the weight of most vehicles out there!!!  And only a single circuit, any leak means NO BRAKES!!!  

 


i have all my maintenance performed by an expert

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y104/weisseluft/me_at_2010_deuce_party.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y104/weisseluft/deuce_dual_lift.jpg


That guy has bony knees!  Look how they have ruined those jeans!  And can withstand being on gravel.  That is one bad dude there.
 


I wish he was in Kansas........I could use some help with my brakes.........


Back off!  Get your own keith!!

Link Posted: 5/24/2010 8:17:54 PM EDT
[#48]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:

Quoted:

Quoted:

BRAKES!!!!  The truck has 6 wheel cylinders, each one is a probable leak.  Since the brake system is sealed, lost fluid pulls the wheel cylinder cups inward.  Lose enough fluid and no brakes.  Why is this so common?  Crappy parts made by the lowest bidder.  At the end of service, wheel cylinders were a throw-away item, only they were made with inferior springs which lacked piston cup expanders.  Fortunately, the wheel cylinder rebuild kits available have the PROPER piston cup expanders.  They are cheap and super easy to install, only special tool is a wheel cylinder hone and a few quarts of DOT 5 brake fluid.

When doing the brakes, check the shoe lining thickness (relining kits are half the price of new shoes and like above, super easy to install).  Repack bearings, remembering the little cube of cork under the seal tang to keep gear oil from migrating.  RTV instead of the useless paper gasket on the drive flanges.

Do you have a smooth surfaced area to work on it?  A must.  A good hydraulic engine hoist can be used to remove the duals, I've used a long 3/8" extension between the duals and then used the hoist's hook to hold the dual's weight.  Once the bearing nuts are removed, the wheel is easily pulled off.  Other dual wheel jacks/dollies are available but cost $500 or more.  Worth their weight in GOLD because you don't mess with lug nuts.

 




Thanks for a bunch of good advice.

Who do you get the wheel cylinder rebuild kits from? Have a Part#?

 

NAPA.  Don't know the part number off the top of my head but they have them.  Standard part.  Because all these trucks use silicone DOT 5 brake fluid, corrosion is minimal.  OD Iron and other deuce parts places online have the kits.  Shipping on the kits is also MUCH LESS.  But having a spare rebuilt cylinder is a good idea in any case along with a spare set of brake shoes, springs and retainers.  Get a master cylinder rebuild kit along with spare brake hoses for the full coverage.

Now finding the copper sealing washers can be a problem.  NAPA has these too but you will have to order them.  Get a dozen of each, there are 2 slightly different diameters, one inside and one outside.  Far easier to pull the banjo bolt than the double flare nut as these love to seize.  Threads in the banjo bolt are wet with brake fluid so they won't seize .

BRAKES BRAKES BRAKES!!!  You have double the weight of most vehicles out there!!!  And only a single circuit, any leak means NO BRAKES!!!  

 


Any way to convert to a dual circuit? Single circuit is....not desirable.


later contract air force deuces had dual circuits, you can tell by a brake light on the dash most times.  other than that i understand they are not easy to convert.



IIRC, the master cylinder and air pack are both different.
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 8:21:43 PM EDT
[#49]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:

Quoted:

Quoted:

BRAKES!!!!  The truck has 6 wheel cylinders, each one is a probable leak.  Since the brake system is sealed, lost fluid pulls the wheel cylinder cups inward.  Lose enough fluid and no brakes.  Why is this so common?  Crappy parts made by the lowest bidder.  At the end of service, wheel cylinders were a throw-away item, only they were made with inferior springs which lacked piston cup expanders.  Fortunately, the wheel cylinder rebuild kits available have the PROPER piston cup expanders.  They are cheap and super easy to install, only special tool is a wheel cylinder hone and a few quarts of DOT 5 brake fluid.

When doing the brakes, check the shoe lining thickness (relining kits are half the price of new shoes and like above, super easy to install).  Repack bearings, remembering the little cube of cork under the seal tang to keep gear oil from migrating.  RTV instead of the useless paper gasket on the drive flanges.

Do you have a smooth surfaced area to work on it?  A must.  A good hydraulic engine hoist can be used to remove the duals, I've used a long 3/8" extension between the duals and then used the hoist's hook to hold the dual's weight.  Once the bearing nuts are removed, the wheel is easily pulled off.  Other dual wheel jacks/dollies are available but cost $500 or more.  Worth their weight in GOLD because you don't mess with lug nuts.

 




Thanks for a bunch of good advice.

Who do you get the wheel cylinder rebuild kits from? Have a Part#?

 

NAPA.  Don't know the part number off the top of my head but they have them.  Standard part.  Because all these trucks use silicone DOT 5 brake fluid, corrosion is minimal.  OD Iron and other deuce parts places online have the kits.  Shipping on the kits is also MUCH LESS.  But having a spare rebuilt cylinder is a good idea in any case along with a spare set of brake shoes, springs and retainers.  Get a master cylinder rebuild kit along with spare brake hoses for the full coverage.

Now finding the copper sealing washers can be a problem.  NAPA has these too but you will have to order them.  Get a dozen of each, there are 2 slightly different diameters, one inside and one outside.  Far easier to pull the banjo bolt than the double flare nut as these love to seize.  Threads in the banjo bolt are wet with brake fluid so they won't seize .

BRAKES BRAKES BRAKES!!!  You have double the weight of most vehicles out there!!!  And only a single circuit, any leak means NO BRAKES!!!  

 


Any way to convert to a dual circuit? Single circuit is....not desirable.


later contract air force deuces had dual circuits, you can tell by a brake light on the dash most times.  other than that i understand they are not easy to convert.



IIRC, the master cylinder and air pack are both different.


That sucks. Single circuit systems aren't really safe IMO. Is the E brake mechanical or does it work off the hydraulics for the regular brakes?
Link Posted: 5/24/2010 8:24:09 PM EDT
[#50]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:

Quoted:

Quoted:

BRAKES!!!!  The truck has 6 wheel cylinders, each one is a probable leak.  Since the brake system is sealed, lost fluid pulls the wheel cylinder cups inward.  Lose enough fluid and no brakes.  Why is this so common?  Crappy parts made by the lowest bidder.  At the end of service, wheel cylinders were a throw-away item, only they were made with inferior springs which lacked piston cup expanders.  Fortunately, the wheel cylinder rebuild kits available have the PROPER piston cup expanders.  They are cheap and super easy to install, only special tool is a wheel cylinder hone and a few quarts of DOT 5 brake fluid.

When doing the brakes, check the shoe lining thickness (relining kits are half the price of new shoes and like above, super easy to install).  Repack bearings, remembering the little cube of cork under the seal tang to keep gear oil from migrating.  RTV instead of the useless paper gasket on the drive flanges.

Do you have a smooth surfaced area to work on it?  A must.  A good hydraulic engine hoist can be used to remove the duals, I've used a long 3/8" extension between the duals and then used the hoist's hook to hold the dual's weight.  Once the bearing nuts are removed, the wheel is easily pulled off.  Other dual wheel jacks/dollies are available but cost $500 or more.  Worth their weight in GOLD because you don't mess with lug nuts.

 




Thanks for a bunch of good advice.

Who do you get the wheel cylinder rebuild kits from? Have a Part#?

 

NAPA.  Don't know the part number off the top of my head but they have them.  Standard part.  Because all these trucks use silicone DOT 5 brake fluid, corrosion is minimal.  OD Iron and other deuce parts places online have the kits.  Shipping on the kits is also MUCH LESS.  But having a spare rebuilt cylinder is a good idea in any case along with a spare set of brake shoes, springs and retainers.  Get a master cylinder rebuild kit along with spare brake hoses for the full coverage.

Now finding the copper sealing washers can be a problem.  NAPA has these too but you will have to order them.  Get a dozen of each, there are 2 slightly different diameters, one inside and one outside.  Far easier to pull the banjo bolt than the double flare nut as these love to seize.  Threads in the banjo bolt are wet with brake fluid so they won't seize .

BRAKES BRAKES BRAKES!!!  You have double the weight of most vehicles out there!!!  And only a single circuit, any leak means NO BRAKES!!!  

 


Any way to convert to a dual circuit? Single circuit is....not desirable.


later contract air force deuces had dual circuits, you can tell by a brake light on the dash most times.  other than that i understand they are not easy to convert.



IIRC, the master cylinder and air pack are both different.


That sucks. Single circuit systems aren't really safe IMO. Is the E brake mechanical or does it work off the hydraulics for the regular brakes?


mechanical.  set of shoes on the driveshaft...

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