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Posted: 5/17/2016 12:09:09 PM EDT
[#1]
My grandparents got an Airstream. Never had a problem.
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Posted: 5/17/2016 12:18:11 PM EDT
[#2]
I'm replacing several pieces of floor and the carpet because of water leaking from the roof seams. Opened up all the ceiling penetrations to air out the insulation, and have had a dehumidifier running in there for the last 3 weeks.
I'll consider it my fault since I haven't resealed the roof for the last 4 or 5 years. It's routine maintenance and you pay the price for not doing it. You do need to be careful when you're up on the roof. If it's not designed for people to be up there, you can cause a lot of damage if you're not careful. I use planks across the ribs to spread the load. |
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Posted: 5/17/2016 12:33:51 PM EDT
[#3]
E_V_E_R_Y YEAR. I don't take chances with the roof. One year I skipped the roof maintenance and the freakin' roof leaked -bad. The place that does all of my RV service fixed it like new though. One year the AC units were loose and had to be tightened.
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Posted: 5/17/2016 1:03:46 PM EDT
[#4]
look under general contractors/ roofing. go with single tab 30 years , and use felt under layman
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Posted: 5/17/2016 1:14:28 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
look under general contractors/ roofing. go with single tab 30 years , and use felt under layman 
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Posted: 5/17/2016 2:45:42 PM EDT
[#6]
Had a leak into one of the front closets.
Was ready to reseal the rubber roof and re-caulk all the seams all around the camper. Our RV repair guy told us we would have voided the warranty on the roof by coating it with the rubber roof repair stuff(for houses AKA cool seal.) Did a little more inspecting and found the sealant around AND under the clearance lamp had deteriorated, it was putty tape. Some fresh sealant under the ones that needed it and around all of them and no more leaks. Just put up a 18'X45' cover and don't worry about leaks at all anymore. |
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Posted: 5/17/2016 2:58:55 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Had a leak into one of the front closets. Was ready to reseal the rubber roof and re-caulk all the seams all around the camper. Our RV repair guy told us we would have voided the warranty on the roof by coating it with the rubber roof repair stuff(for houses AKA cool seal.) Did a little more inspecting and found the sealant around AND under the clearance lamp had deteriorated, it was putty tape. Some fresh sealant under the ones that needed it and around all of them and no more leaks. Just put up a 18'X45' cover and don't worry about leaks at all anymore. Or under a 24'x38' cover and park the tow vehicle next to it! I'm a big believer in metal free standing awnings. So much so you can see my backyard from space. I'm debating lining the top of them with solar power panels and supplying electricity to the rest of the county! |
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Posted: 5/17/2016 4:14:24 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Or under a 24'x38' cover and park the tow vehicle next to it! I'm a big believer in metal free standing awnings. So much so you can see my backyard from space. I'm debating lining the top of them with solar power panels and supplying electricity to the rest of the county! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Had a leak into one of the front closets. Was ready to reseal the rubber roof and re-caulk all the seams all around the camper. Our RV repair guy told us we would have voided the warranty on the roof by coating it with the rubber roof repair stuff(for houses AKA cool seal.) Did a little more inspecting and found the sealant around AND under the clearance lamp had deteriorated, it was putty tape. Some fresh sealant under the ones that needed it and around all of them and no more leaks. Just put up a 18'X45' cover and don't worry about leaks at all anymore. Or under a 24'x38' cover and park the tow vehicle next to it! I'm a big believer in metal free standing awnings. So much so you can see my backyard from space. I'm debating lining the top of them with solar power panels and supplying electricity to the rest of the county! Planning on a new Fifth Wheel next year to upgrade from the 28' TT we're in now 38' would be too short. We've got a 10'X15' lean-to off of one side that is getting extended to the full 45', will park both cars and golf cart under that. |
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Posted: 5/17/2016 4:17:31 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote History[
span style='font-weight: bold;']Quoted:[/span] look under general contractors/ roofing. go with single tab 30 years , and use felt under layman RIF. And your roof spec sucks. (no offense). You should be able to do a good single ply roof with no seams on an RV. Your termination will be down on the sides of the outside walls. A simple term bar detail will suffice. ETA: look at the link. See how the membrane goes down into the gutter? That is the termination detail you would use in your application. (More or less). Just forget the gutter part. http://www.gaf.com/Commercial_Roofing_Systems/EverGuard_PVC/EverGuard_PVC_80_Membrane/212_Gutter_Edge_with_Termination_Bar_Detail_PDF.pdf |
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Posted: 5/17/2016 4:25:19 PM EDT
[#10]
Sorry OP, industry standard is maintain the roof every year.
First post nailed it with the Airstream. Kharn |
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Posted: 5/17/2016 4:30:13 PM EDT
[#11]
Years ago I did a big roof job on a factory. It was a flat roof. There is a 3 part elastometric polymer 20 year roof that I'm thinking will be what I use on my RV this fall just to be safe. It's called Snow Roof Systems and it's made in Oregon. http://www.snowroof.com/product_detail.asp?product_id=SR104 We put down a black base coat (their Elasto-Sea Rubber Undercoat Primer), and while it was wet rolled fiberglass mesh into it. All the flashing was done with these materials also. The top coat is a white 'rubber like' coating that reflects 90% of solar heating and is rated for a 20 year life. For an RV, I think one could get away with just using 4" seam sealing cloth and the top-coat. It is kind of pricey but it'll put a rubber roof on your RV.   |
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Posted: 5/17/2016 5:04:02 PM EDT
[#12]
I had some leaks in mine. Sealed all the joints and corner trimming, all lights and fixtures, windows; anywhere water could penetrate. I have some damage to repair but will have to take care of that later.
We have a slide out that had some water damage to the roof structure internally. I could tell because in was like a crunchy sponge in several spots when I crawled around to seal the seams on it. Oh joy. Meanwhile I have a guy coming out to look at the oven and some minor things. 
Is there a good refrigerator to put in RVs? I have a Dometic but the elements in the back constantly ice over. It seems like the temperature is either 0 or mid 60s never in between. Our eggs always freeze and crack. Between that and the sink leak are my biggest headaches. |
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Posted: 5/17/2016 5:17:36 PM EDT
[#13]
How about Rhino lining?
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Posted: 5/17/2016 11:22:32 PM EDT
[#14]
I had a minor leak that caused some significant damage. Made the repairs and replaced the cheapo rubber roof with tpo. I still have a few critical spots to monitor, but the roof will outlast the rest of the coach
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Posted: 5/17/2016 11:40:45 PM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
After the winter we had here we got out the old RV for some spring cleaning and when my youngest got in one of the bunk beds his foot went through the rear wall. Further inspection included removing the bunks and peeling back the paneling to reveal a completely rotted our corner. While in the bathroom there was a bubble in the opposite corner in the wallpaper between it and the paneling. So I called GEICO. They happily looked at it, and quickly denied the claim. They said that while we did have a bad winter with lots of snow my policy only covered external damage from falling tree limbs and such. Seeping water from snow loads indicated a lack of maintenance to the roof. What?!? The roof is metal, and we were told when we bought it, this would be a benefit. So I now understand joints need to be caulked and such, and I'm making the repairs. Never use caulk on the roof, lap sealant is what you are looking for. Also, check around side wall penetrations and replace the old tape caulk with butyl rubber tape. |
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Posted: 5/18/2016 9:43:15 PM EDT
[#16]
I have some lap sealant. The wall is rebuilt and I'll be putting the siding back on soon. I've got some white strip caulk to go around the lights and the corner beading. I'll use lap sealant on the places where the joints of the roof/rear wall/side walls come together.
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Posted: 5/18/2016 10:07:58 PM EDT
[#17]
I have an aluminum framed vacuum bonded trailer. I am hoping it is impervious!
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Posted: 5/18/2016 10:50:48 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have some lap sealant. The wall is rebuilt and I'll be putting the siding back on soon. I've got some white strip caulk to go around the lights and the corner beading. I'll use lap sealant on the places where the joints of the roof/rear wall/side walls come together. Throw that white strip caulk away and get a roll of butyl tape. |
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Posted: 5/19/2016 10:48:52 PM EDT
[#19]
Butyl tape, check. I got 30'
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Posted: 5/19/2016 10:51:49 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
look under general contractors/ roofing. go with single tab 30 years , and use felt under layman |
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Posted: 5/19/2016 10:55:09 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Butyl tape, check. I got 30' Good stuff. Just don't set it on anything you want to keep. That shit sticks to everything. 
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Posted: 5/19/2016 11:35:29 PM EDT
[#22]
Butyl tape.
Dicor lap sealant. I think I could float the Titanic with these 2 products Also look up Eternabond roof seal. It's a butyl backed tape that comes in different lengths/widths. Probably a good idea to buy a roll for emergency repairs. Or to patch leaks until you replace roof properly. Is the roof EPDM or otherwise? They can be conditioned to get a few more years out of them. Go ahead and buy stock in Dicor if you're doing roof repairs. |
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Posted: 5/19/2016 11:37:08 PM EDT
[#23]
I replaced a skylight, haven't had rot. 10-years old
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Posted: 5/20/2016 7:32:36 AM EDT
[#24]
The roof itself is metal. It was leaking at the rearmost joints where the side walls and the rear wall join the roof.
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Posted: 5/20/2016 7:38:24 AM EDT
[#25]
I've got a good waterproofing/ coatings sub that takes care of me. He said that he can get all the same EPDM sheet and sealant materials whenever I need them
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Posted: 5/20/2016 7:46:42 AM EDT
[#26]
You have been RVing for over a decade and have seriously never heard that you need to caulk your seams
. Thats up there with having a boat and not knowing you need to put the drain plug in before you launch.
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Posted: 5/20/2016 1:52:40 PM EDT
[#27]
Seriously. I have never heard that. I have done small repairs but I've never been told to caulk the seams. I also read owners manuals and this one says nothing about it. Sorry man. But as unbelievable as it would seem I've never been told that. Even if during dealership walk around after buying.
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Posted: 5/20/2016 1:55:35 PM EDT
[#28]
My cargo trailer/toyhauler conversion has a metal roof and framing! Major reason I went that direction.
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Posted: 5/20/2016 2:04:38 PM EDT
[#29]
A friend of ours kept their 30ft camper at a local lake campground year round and apparently it sprang a big leak last year. He has stripped it down to the bare trailer frame and is rebuilding the thing into a completely different camper from the ground up now. He is a plumber/electrician/heat/ac guy and from the pictures he has posted also one hell of a carpenter!
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Posted: 5/20/2016 2:06:26 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
look under general contractors/ roofing. go with single tab 30 years , and use felt under layman Best low-slope roof system ever!
Eta: OP, can you post pics of the whole RV roof and closer shots of the affected area? |
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Posted: 5/20/2016 2:15:36 PM EDT
[#31]
Can anyone recommend a good fridge\freezer? Mine doesn't hold a constant temp and collects ice inside the fridge on the heat exchanger...
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Posted: 5/20/2016 5:29:34 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Can anyone recommend a good fridge\freezer? Mine doesn't hold a constant temp and collects ice inside the fridge on the heat exchanger... Freon recharge? |
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Posted: 5/21/2016 9:30:09 PM EDT
[#33]
I took pictures of the roof today. I will get them up as soon as they load on Flickr. For the most part it's back together. On the next warm, dry day I will put in my lap joint sealant.
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Posted: 5/21/2016 9:33:04 PM EDT
[#34]
https://www.flickr.com/photos/137111944@N04/shares/p0hn0q
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Posted: 6/2/2016 9:41:22 PM EDT
[#35]
Ok. I got it done. Lap joint sealer applied, and shower surround built in. What else can I do to help keep the water out. A carport is not in the budget.
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Posted: 6/2/2016 9:42:07 PM EDT
[#36]
TARP!!!!!
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