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Posted: 4/28/2017 10:57:58 PM EDT
[#1]
Yes.
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Posted: 4/28/2017 11:06:55 PM EDT
[#2]
I wouldn't.
Run it on Dino oil for 4 or 5 hours to let the rings seat in, then go syn and don't look back. |
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Posted: 4/28/2017 11:10:29 PM EDT
[#3]
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Posted: 4/28/2017 11:11:10 PM EDT
[#4]
If your goal is to NOT break it in -- sure.
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Posted: 4/28/2017 11:31:24 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just go buy some conventional oil. Mix in some of this too. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/61196/7660006-lco-10063-pri-larg-197674.JPG |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 2:04:40 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If your goal is to NOT break it in -- sure. What about synthetic/dino blend oil? |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 2:27:20 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Isn't the Lucas stuff snake oil? A la Marvel mystery oil? |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 2:29:52 AM EDT
[#8]
The break in argument is so old it's hard to follow. This oil, that oil, run it easy, run it hard. Dry cylinder in two strokes, wet cylinder for two strokes... This will go around and around.
I'm in the run the piss out of it with cheap oil unless you are breaking in a fresh flat tappet cam. Then do the cam break in BS with zinc additive. Then change the oil then run the piss out of it. |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 2:35:31 AM EDT
[#9]
make sure you fire one round, swab till clean, and repeat times 87
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Posted: 4/29/2017 2:39:00 AM EDT
[#10]
Have you tried reading the manual for the manufacturer's suggestions? They would probably know the most about it.
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Posted: 4/29/2017 2:49:42 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
make sure you fire one round, swab till clean, and repeat times 87 You have to count the revolutions on the engine. It has to be stopped between 15,567 and 15,754 in order to complete the first heat cycle. Then in has to be started again at the 5:32 mark after shutdown. If you don't start it with one pull, then you may as well give up and sell it because the cam will turn to shit. |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 2:51:29 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Have you tried reading the manual for the manufacturer's suggestions? They would probably know the most about it. The generator has a label on top that says to use 10W-30 oil but the manual says 10W-30 or 5W-30 Synthetic oil. |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 3:00:03 AM EDT
[#13]
According to Mobil, breaking in with synthetic is ok- Mobil FAQs
"Is it true that new engines require a break in period with conventional oil? That is a myth. In the past, engine break-in was necessary to remove metal flashing or any other abrasive material left inside the engine after machining, as well as to allow the valves and rings to "seat" properly. Today's engines are built with much tighter tolerances and much improved machining, and under much cleaner conditions compared to the engines of 10 or 20 years ago. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require a break-in period using petroleum-based motor oils. " |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 3:18:28 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I did...twice, and there is nothing about break-in process. The generator has a label on top that says to use 10W-30 oil but the manual says 10W-30 or 5W-30 Synthetic oil. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Have you tried reading the manual for the manufacturer's suggestions? They would probably know the most about it. The generator has a label on top that says to use 10W-30 oil but the manual says 10W-30 or 5W-30 Synthetic oil. |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 5:37:38 AM EDT
[#15]
Synthetic oil isn't some super duper friction reducing oil. If it was engines would last ten times longer.
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Posted: 4/29/2017 6:26:07 AM EDT
[#16]
Chinese air cooled engine I would run a cheap 10/30 for 1 hour then dump. Add cheap 10/30 for a 5 hr run then dump.
Then I would use my M1 10/30. It is not a break in but a clean out. No use in using good oil just to dump it early. The advantage of using an oil like M1 10/30 over conventional is it does not burn off as quick in a hot running air cool engine. |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 6:32:32 AM EDT
[#17]
Both of my Honda engines (GC190, 160) have had nothing but synthetic. Bought both around 2010. They're still going strong.
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Posted: 4/29/2017 6:34:48 AM EDT
[#18]
I used mobil1 syn 10w30 in lawnmower and 4cycle weed trimmer. No issues.
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Posted: 4/29/2017 6:39:13 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Synthetic oil isn't some super duper friction reducing oil. If it was engines would last ten times longer. |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 6:39:53 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Isn't the Lucas stuff snake oil? A la Marvel mystery oil? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Just go buy some conventional oil. Mix in some of this too. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/61196/7660006-lco-10063-pri-larg-197674.JPG |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 6:42:38 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
According to Mobil, breaking in with synthetic is ok- Mobil FAQs "Is it true that new engines require a break in period with conventional oil? That is a myth. In the past, engine break-in was necessary to remove metal flashing or any other abrasive material left inside the engine after machining, as well as to allow the valves and rings to "seat" properly. Today's engines are built with much tighter tolerances and much improved machining, and under much cleaner conditions compared to the engines of 10 or 20 years ago. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require a break-in period using petroleum-based motor oils. " |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 6:48:29 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Chinese air cooled engine I would run a cheap 10/30 for 1 hour then dump. Add cheap 10/30 for a 5 hr run then dump. Then I would use my M1 10/30. It is not a break in but a clean out. No use in using good oil just to dump it early. The advantage of using an oil like M1 10/30 over conventional is it does not burn off as quick in a hot running air cool engine. |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 7:12:20 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
According to Mobil, breaking in with synthetic is ok- Mobil FAQs "Is it true that new engines require a break in period with conventional oil? That is a myth. In the past, engine break-in was necessary to remove metal flashing or any other abrasive material left inside the engine after machining, as well as to allow the valves and rings to "seat" properly. Today's engines are built with much tighter tolerances and much improved machining, and under much cleaner conditions compared to the engines of 10 or 20 years ago. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require a break-in period using petroleum-based motor oils. " I'd love for someone to explain to me the how the base oil differences between synthetic and synthetic blend oils matters in terms of friction in a small motor. |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 7:13:43 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This. I'd love for someone to explain to me the how the base oil differences between synthetic and synthetic blend oils matters in terms of friction in a small motor. |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 7:32:55 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Friction, not sure. Wax buildup? Any API licensed motor oil out there, that is a not a "full synthetic" will be made of a minimum of a group II / group II+ base oil probably with group III product blended into it. 10w30 is the exception to this because typically it doesn't have to meet a 5w cold crank point. The difference between a modern hydrotreated group II+ base oil and a group III base oil, in terms of break in... Non existent. Break in oil is a thing of the past for small engines and majority of automotive engines. Sure if you're hand building a race engine or such and slapping on assembly grease... Then going to run straight nitro 70 oil in it? That's another story completely. |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 7:36:23 AM EDT
[#26]
Just make sure you change the oil after about 5 hours of operation.
Many still use dino oil the first time but some small engines are ok with synthetic during initial break in. |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 7:38:23 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
According to Mobil, breaking in with synthetic is ok- Mobil FAQs "Is it true that new engines require a break in period with conventional oil? That is a myth. In the past, engine break-in was necessary to remove metal flashing or any other abrasive material left inside the engine after machining, as well as to allow the valves and rings to "seat" properly. Today's engines are built with much tighter tolerances and much improved machining, and under much cleaner conditions compared to the engines of 10 or 20 years ago. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require a break-in period using petroleum-based motor oils. " |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 7:45:28 AM EDT
[#28]
Will someone people describe what Dino oil is...
Group I acid refined base stocks are actually someone the hardest to get. And are exclusively used for industrial products. |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 7:47:38 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I wouldn't. Run it on Dino oil for 4 or 5 hours to let the rings seat in, then go syn and don't look back. |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 7:55:59 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Mobil 1 is a group III base oil. Technically to some standards not even a full synthetic. Any API licensed motor oil out there, that is a not a "full synthetic" will be made of a minimum of a group II / group II+ base oil probably with group III product blended into it. 10w30 is the exception to this because typically it doesn't have to meet a 5w cold crank point. The difference between a modern hydrotreated group II+ base oil and a group III base oil, in terms of break in... Non existent. Break in oil is a thing of the past for small engines and majority of automotive engines. Sure if you're hand building a race engine or such and slapping on assembly grease... Then going to run straight nitro 70 oil in it? That's another story completely. |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 7:56:48 AM EDT
[#31]
In my experience, I find that first oil change tends to reveal a lot of crap (metal) that I am really happy to get OUT of the engine. No matter what the engine maker says regarding oil change interval, I'm really aggressive about running an engine for a bit, then changing out the oil. Example, there is a new motorcycle sitting on the driveway. Its now got a mere 60 miles on it. That first pool change will take place at 500 miles......
I'm a cheap SOB.... I don't like flushing extra cash down the tubes.... So it doesnt make a whole lot of sense to put a high dollar oil into an engine, and then change it out really quickly. You are not getting any of the advantages of a synthetic oil. So, fill it with a basic, no frills dino oil and run it. After break in, change it out and refill with whatever decent oil you want to after that.... The first oil in that engine is going to act as a carrier for removal of all kinds of nasty crap. It'll never get "used up". So don't bother with high dollar oil for the first go around..... Break it in, then change it out.... Fro |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 8:15:52 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Mobil 1 is a group III base oil. Technically to some standards not even a full synthetic. Any API licensed motor oil out there, that is a not a "full synthetic" will be made of a minimum of a group II / group II+ base oil probably with group III product blended into it. 10w30 is the exception to this because typically it doesn't have to meet a 5w cold crank point. The difference between a modern hydrotreated group II+ base oil and a group III base oil, in terms of break in... Non existent. Break in oil is a thing of the past for small engines and majority of automotive engines. Sure if you're hand building a race engine or such and slapping on assembly grease... Then going to run straight nitro 70 oil in it? That's another story completely. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Friction, not sure. Wax buildup? Any API licensed motor oil out there, that is a not a "full synthetic" will be made of a minimum of a group II / group II+ base oil probably with group III product blended into it. 10w30 is the exception to this because typically it doesn't have to meet a 5w cold crank point. The difference between a modern hydrotreated group II+ base oil and a group III base oil, in terms of break in... Non existent. Break in oil is a thing of the past for small engines and majority of automotive engines. Sure if you're hand building a race engine or such and slapping on assembly grease... Then going to run straight nitro 70 oil in it? That's another story completely. |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 8:19:22 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What is your source it's a group base III? I haven't seen anything to confirm what group Mobil 1 is and Mobi,l as far as I know, won't confirm the group base. Plus look at a spec sheet. Edit My comment refers to normal pcmo grades. 5w30/5w20/10w30. Odd weights like 0w40 and 5w50 have to be made out of a PAO due to the vis range. |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 9:34:42 AM EDT
[#34]
Keep in mind that this is a Chinese made small engine...not precision German made auto engine.
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Posted: 4/29/2017 9:40:20 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I wouldn't. Run it on Dino oil for 4 or 5 hours to let the rings seat in, then go syn and don't look back. |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 9:44:37 AM EDT
[#36]
Proper ring seat has a lot more to do with tpur cylinder than your oil.
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Posted: 4/29/2017 9:46:39 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I wouldn't. Run it on Dino oil for 4 or 5 hours to let the rings seat in, then go syn and don't look back. |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 10:15:40 AM EDT
[#38]
What does the owners manual say?
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Posted: 4/29/2017 2:14:10 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What does the owners manual say? |
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Posted: 4/29/2017 2:59:20 PM EDT
[#40]
Fill it with the Mobil 1, use it.
Most vehicle "break in" was the differential rather than engine. |
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Posted: 4/30/2017 5:47:22 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
According to Mobil, breaking in with synthetic is ok- Mobil FAQs "Is it true that new engines require a break in period with conventional oil? That is a myth. In the past, engine break-in was necessary to remove metal flashing or any other abrasive material left inside the engine after machining, as well as to allow the valves and rings to "seat" properly. Today's engines are built with much tighter tolerances and much improved machining, and under much cleaner conditions compared to the engines of 10 or 20 years ago. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require a break-in period using petroleum-based motor oils. " • Quickseat® is the recommended cylinder wall lubricant for ring installation. Piston skirts should be lightly lubricated with AL-4 or engine oil. Remember excessive or improper lubricating of the rings may prevent them from sealing. • During engine break-in, use petroleum based motor oils only. Synthetic oils may be used after break-in cycle is complete. Now in modern automotive applications with modern tolerances and metal finishes, M1 may be true and proper but with cheap Chinese machine work, personally I'd opt for the ring maker's procedure. ymmv |
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