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Posted: 11/27/2017 1:10:43 PM EDT
[#1]
Do you really need to caulk there?
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Posted: 11/27/2017 1:11:05 PM EDT
[#2]
I’d match it to the grout.
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Posted: 11/27/2017 1:11:56 PM EDT
[#3]
Horizontal gap, match the floor. Vertical gap, match the baseboard.
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Posted: 11/27/2017 1:13:42 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Do you really need to caulk there? |
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Posted: 11/27/2017 1:14:46 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Horizontal gap, match the floor. Vertical gap, match the baseboard. 
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Posted: 11/27/2017 1:14:50 PM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
I'm almost finished with my basement job and had a quick question. When applying a bead of caulk along the bottom of the baseboard, what is the correct way to match the color? Do I use caulk that is the color of the baseboards or do I use caulk that is the color of the tile/grout? I'll dare say, that best practice would be no caulk, to allow for proper expansion/contraction, and scribe base to fit tight to the floor. A.W.D. |
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Posted: 11/27/2017 1:15:45 PM EDT
[#7]
put some shoe molding on if there's a gap that bothers you.... but realize that nobody but you will ever see that gap unless they're lying on the floor (assuming the baseboard was installed competently)
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Posted: 11/27/2017 1:18:14 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'll dare say, that best practice would be no caulk, to allow for proper expansion/contraction, and scribe base to fit tight to the floor. A.W.D. |
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Posted: 11/27/2017 1:20:16 PM EDT
[#9]
1/4 round trim?
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Posted: 11/27/2017 1:21:44 PM EDT
[#10]
Match the baseboard.
It'll look like a large gap if your grout is dark. |
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Posted: 11/27/2017 1:23:07 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'll dare say, that best practice would be no caulk, to allow for proper expansion/contraction, and scribe base to fit tight to the floor. A.W.D. |
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Posted: 11/27/2017 1:24:49 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
put some shoe molding on if there's a gap that bothers you.... but realize that nobody but you will ever see that gap unless they're lying on the floor (assuming the baseboard was installed competently)  Attached File |
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Posted: 11/27/2017 1:25:19 PM EDT
[#13]
Shoe molding, no caulk there.
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Posted: 11/27/2017 1:26:08 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The only time we caulk base boards is because of a shitty tile job. If the gap is even, leave it. 
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Posted: 11/27/2017 1:27:18 PM EDT
[#15]
That would look terrible caulked.
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Posted: 11/27/2017 1:30:15 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's not a large gap, I just think it looks unfinished. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/347339/20171127_112130-374320.JPG Geez. Stop drinking so much that you are crawling on the floor, obsessing about a tiny crack.
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Posted: 11/27/2017 1:30:28 PM EDT
[#17]
Whatever you do don't use silicone
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Posted: 11/27/2017 1:33:22 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Heh, I guess that makes sense. Thank you! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Horizontal gap, match the floor. Vertical gap, match the baseboard. |
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Posted: 11/27/2017 1:40:01 PM EDT
[#19]
I caulked the baseboards in my laundry room because that is where the cat box is and I didn't want cat piss seeping behind the baseboard.
In that case I matched the baseboard. The gap there is very tiny, you can't see the caulking. |
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Posted: 11/27/2017 1:41:59 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Geez. Stop drinking so much that you are crawling on the floor, obsessing about a tiny crack.
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Posted: 11/27/2017 1:43:17 PM EDT
[#21]
Do not caulk that...move the stuff back in and you're good to go.
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Posted: 11/27/2017 1:44:10 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I caulked the baseboards in my laundry room because that is where the cat box is and I didn't want cat piss seeping behind the baseboard. In that case I matched the baseboard. The gap there is very tiny, you can't see the caulking. |
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Posted: 11/27/2017 2:00:25 PM EDT
[#23]
Do what my sister did in one of her bathrooms. Rip out the baseboard molding and install a row of capping tile ( or whatever the finishing tile is called with the finished edge). waterproof and looks great.
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Posted: 11/27/2017 2:12:39 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Shoe molding, no caulk there. |
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Posted: 11/27/2017 2:21:05 PM EDT
[#25]
Just use clear caulk. Gives you the protection you want and looks like normal.
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Posted: 11/27/2017 2:23:56 PM EDT
[#26]
Op is gonna caulk it isn't he?
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Posted: 11/27/2017 2:25:01 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Horizontal gap, match the floor. Vertical gap, match the baseboard. |
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Posted: 11/27/2017 2:26:12 PM EDT
[#28]
 
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Posted: 11/27/2017 2:30:04 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What else is there to do without good company to distract you from such things? I've tried to get @TATBME to come sit on a 5gal bucket and shoot the shit with me while we drink and I work, but he's apparently got better things to do. Hard to find good help these days. Sorry bud, some of us have to work to make up for all the Black Friday deals  .
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Posted: 11/27/2017 2:48:35 PM EDT
[#30]
Shoe molding and if you are really concerned about spills a pet accidents just caulk the gap before installing the molding. I agree with poster above, if you caulk it by its self its going to look really bad and uneven.
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Posted: 11/27/2017 3:03:25 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Op is gonna caulk it isn't he?
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Posted: 11/27/2017 3:07:13 PM EDT
[#32]
My baseboards are always white, so my caulking is white.
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Posted: 11/27/2017 3:09:22 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Shoe molding FTMFW. Sorry bud, some of us have to work to make up for all the Black Friday deals .
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Posted: 11/27/2017 3:10:32 PM EDT
[#34]
Match the baseboard. When you do this you get the visual sense that the wall goes all the way to the floor.
If you match the tile, it just won’t look right. |
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Posted: 11/27/2017 3:18:53 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's not a large gap, I just think it looks unfinished. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/347339/20171127_112130-374320.JPG Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
put some shoe molding on if there's a gap that bothers you.... but realize that nobody but you will ever see that gap unless they're lying on the floor (assuming the baseboard was installed competently) https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/347339/20171127_112130-374320.JPG |
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Posted: 11/27/2017 3:19:26 PM EDT
[#36]
That looks fine. Adding caulk gives it an amateur signature, a head will look bad.
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Posted: 11/27/2017 3:20:12 PM EDT
[#37]
chaulk will look trashy, shoe mould
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Posted: 11/27/2017 3:21:40 PM EDT
[#38]
I matched to the baseboard. Looks fine.
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Posted: 11/27/2017 3:27:44 PM EDT
[#39]
OP, I am retiling my house as we speak.
I used color matched caulk on the edges of the tile, under the toemold. Then I put down white toemold, no caulk. Looks good. I would not caulk what you have there, looks good. |
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Posted: 11/27/2017 3:58:45 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: I'll dare say, that best practice would be no caulk, to allow for proper expansion/contraction, and scribe base to fit tight to the floor. A.W.D. Wood will expand and contract much more than the tile will. One season and the caulk will peel up. And if you follow through with it. Match the base. Not the tile or grout. Otherwise it will look like a shadow going up the baseboard. Especially if it is a dark tile/grout. I have been professionally tiling for 10 years or so. I have never done this. It is very much not normal to caulk the base to the tile. If you have tile base, then yes, it is grouted and siliconed but not caulked. Professional opinion is this is a bad idea. |
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Posted: 11/27/2017 3:59:07 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
1/4 round trim? Shoe base, sometimes... OK, now seeing OP's picture. I would leave it alone. It looks exactly like the baseboard I put down after I replaced the flooring in my house. I did put a tiny, tiny bead of white caulk under the white baseboard in the utility room only, just to keep any spills from getting under the wall. |
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Posted: 11/27/2017 4:10:41 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
cha A.W.D. |
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Posted: 11/27/2017 4:14:29 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You did a better job than that $400,000 house in TX.
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Posted: 11/27/2017 4:18:42 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I’d match it to the grout. |
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Posted: 11/27/2017 4:27:48 PM EDT
[#45]
I would be worried about liquids getting under that trim and causing problems with moisture and odor. I would be tempted to run an invisible clear bead of caulk under the trim that is possibly pushed back 1/8" so as to no be visible. That way when you clean, have a spill or dog urine gets under there, it will be easy to clean up.
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Posted: 11/27/2017 4:56:16 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It's not a large gap, I just think it looks unfinished. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/347339/20171127_112130-374320.JPG |
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