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Posted: 3/2/2020 7:33:44 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If you zero the gun at 25 yards using a 36 yard adjusted target, you are zeroing at 36 yard zero. Not a 25 yard zero. Look at that link again and look at the graphic again. Just like Ridgerunner9876 said earlier in the thread, zeroing for a 36 yard zero at 25 yards is right around 0.72" low at 25 yards. So aim center circle but have your hits be 0.72" low. Again, using a 36 yard adjusted target at 25 yards does not equal a 25 yard zero. |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 7:34:25 PM EDT
[#2]
I like a 100 yard zero on mil’d reticle first focal plane optics where everything other than 100yds/zero is a come up.
On second focal plane optics where the zoom changes the reticle subtension I usually revert to a max point blankish 200 yd zero on the cross hairs. Usually I zero at 50 and adjust windage at 200 on a calm day. Makes it easy to recheck zeroes at 50. |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 7:34:29 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 3. A 100 zero...for what, I'm not sure... |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 7:35:54 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The entire pattern is roughly 5.5" from 0-300 with the 36. While in the Army, I attended a 2 day ACOG training course that was taught by one of the two guys employed by Trijicon who's soul job is training the military on the use of Trijicon products. He also helped write the Marine Corps marksmanship doctrine before he retired and went to work for Trijicon. He recommended and taught the 33m (36 yd) zero. In fact, that's the only way to ensure the stadia lines meet up at the appropriate distances on an ACOG. 
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Posted: 3/2/2020 7:36:39 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Because its hard to see at 100 yards mainly I should have added one caveat I sight in PCCs at 25 yards Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: Any reason you do 50 for irons instead of doing 100 for both? I should have added one caveat I sight in PCCs at 25 yards 
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Posted: 3/2/2020 7:39:26 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I think what this all boils down to is guys will generally want one of three things. 1. A 50/~200 zero Where spread is about 6" but falls pretty fast much beyond 300. 2. A 36/~300 zero Where spread is about 9" but falls pretty fast much beyond 400. 3. A 100 zero...for what, I'm not sure... |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 7:40:02 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Less hold offs to learn Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: 3. A 100 zero...for what, I'm not sure... So what is your hold over to hit a 10" plate at 300yds? I'll hold dead center with my 36 yd zero. |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 7:42:07 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Huh? So what is your hold over to hit a 10" plate at 300yds? I'll hold dead center with my 36 yd zero. 
*Edited from 25 to 50 yards. I has the dumb today!
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Posted: 3/2/2020 7:42:22 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
5” in 5.56? I literally feel that concussion in my teeth fillings just reading that.  Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I like the 36 yard zero I tested: 5" barrel in 5.56 7" barrel in 5.56 16" barrel in 5.56 12.5 " barrel in .308 Once zeroed @36 yards I then shot at 25 yards, 50 yards, 75 yards, & 100 yards The rise and fall was a bit more pronounced on the 5" & 7" but stayed consistent and repeatable. I literally feel that concussion in my teeth fillings just reading that.
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Posted: 3/2/2020 7:43:37 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
100 yard zero is for optics with BDC or dialing in elevation. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I think what this all boils down to is guys will generally want one of three things. 1. A 50/~200 zero Where spread is about 6" but falls pretty fast much beyond 300. 2. A 36/~300 zero Where spread is about 9" but falls pretty fast much beyond 400. 3. A 100 zero...for what, I'm not sure... |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 7:43:52 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Huh? So what is your hold over to hit a 10" plate at 300yds? I'll hold dead center with my 36 yd zero. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted: 3. A 100 zero...for what, I'm not sure... So what is your hold over to hit a 10" plate at 300yds? I'll hold dead center with my 36 yd zero. |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 7:47:47 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What's your "hold off" to hit a target at 90 yds? Are all your targets specifically at 300yds? Edit. Auto correct |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 7:48:41 PM EDT
[#13]
I'm a fan of zeroing at whatever range gives gives the best point blank range for your chosen vital radius, velocity, bc, and sight height of the specific rifle. There are plenty of free ballistic calculators to figure it out.
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Posted: 3/2/2020 7:53:48 PM EDT
[#14]
37y zero for me. Definitly not dumb. 10.5"556. The strlok is for wolf steel case 55g. Floating em out to 410 about 3 hits every five shots.
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Posted: 3/2/2020 7:54:14 PM EDT
[#15]
I doubt anybody was bleeding to death thinking, if I only zeroed to 36 yards instead of 50 yards, I would’ve survived. I say who cares.
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Posted: 3/2/2020 7:57:44 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you have 3 moa accuracy and are shooting at 170 yards with you aim point 5” high your shot could be 8” high. That’s a miss on a head or prone target. I’m much less concerned about >200 which is low probability Again, this is also the case with all of the other zero distances (25/50/100). The hardest part of shooting at an unknown distance at a target, is range estimation. Over time and practice you can definitely at good at it. But at the end of the day, give me the zero that will keep my shots in as tight of a group as possible. And yes, I consider my AR15 to be a 300 yard gun with a red dot. Actually a 400 yard gun with a red dot. Watch the the video that was already linked to in this thread on page 1. You might actually learn something. For a 5.56 AR15/M4 with a red dot, a 36 yard zero is a very valid zero to use.  Vigilance Elite - Spec Ops Dude's Favorite Combat Rifle Zero   36 yard zero has a tighter group out to 250 yards than a 25 yard zero. 36 yard zero has about the same tightness of group out to 250 yards as a 50 yard zero. 36 yard zero has a tighter group out to 250 yards than a 100 yard zero. |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 7:59:10 PM EDT
[#17]
I use 15 yards for subguns and RDS equipped pistols.
50 yards for irons/RDS guns 100 yards for LPVO and precision rifles I did accidentally zero a .22 at 35 yards yesterday and it worked well out to 150
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Posted: 3/2/2020 8:04:13 PM EDT
[#18]
Some of the best "combat" shooters I know either shoot a 42/265 or 300y zero with M16A4.
I shot the 42/265 with M16A4. I've recently transitioned to shooting Combat matches with the M4A1, and had great success with a 36/200y zero. I shoot a TA01 ACOG out to 500y with about 47" of drop at that range. Using the reticle subtensions, I know my holds for 1-500. But for 25-300y, i hold about 2" high at 100, straight in at 200, 2" low at 300, "3-wire" about 5" high at 400, and "4-wire" 5" high at 500y. The key to accuracy with any zero range is data. I'm surprised nobody has mentioned databooks. Shoot at different ranges, write your data down, learn your holds, and shoot what works for you. |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 8:11:13 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I think what this all boils down to is guys will generally want one of three things. 1. A 50/~200 zero Where spread is about 6" but falls pretty fast much beyond 300. 2. A 36/~300 zero Where spread is about 9" but falls pretty fast much beyond 400. 3. A 100 zero...for what, I'm not sure... |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 8:14:42 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 
Please educate me how you came to this decision...? 
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Posted: 3/2/2020 8:18:37 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
And I'll hold at the top of the plate with my 25 yard zero. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Huh? So what is your hold over to hit a 10" plate at 300yds? I'll hold dead center with my 36 yd zero. 
With your 25 yard zero shooting a 10" plate at 300 yards, holding at the top of the 10" plate would have you miss the plate completely. Because at 300 yards the trajectory of the bullet is 7.5" HIGH at 300 yards with your zero. You would need to aim 2.5" below the 10" plate 300 yards to hit dead center at 300 yards. 
See how hard it is to know your range and your hold overs from behind a computer with the 25 yard zero. So again, with you shooting at a 10" plate at 300 yards with a 25 yard zero, you would need to aim 2.5" under the bottom of the plate to hit center of the plate. |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 8:20:17 PM EDT
[#22]
8/3-2.
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Posted: 3/2/2020 8:24:49 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I didn't have any problem hitting the target at 500 yards with an M16A2. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted: Any reason you do 50 for irons instead of doing 100 for both? I should have added one caveat I sight in PCCs at 25 yards marksmanship ... its whats for dinner |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 8:25:16 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I doubt anybody was bleeding to death thinking, if I only zeroed to 36 yards instead of 50 yards, I would’ve survived. I say who cares. Being able to have a zero that has a +/- of only 5" max all the way out to 300 yards is very useful and simple to use. 
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Posted: 3/2/2020 8:28:46 PM EDT
[#25]
I don't think a 36 yard zero is dumb.
But, a 50/250 yard zero covers the vast majority of problems I believe I am likely to encounter in my hunting or self-defense shooting situations. I do have my 20" A2 zeroed at 36, FWIW. But it also has a red dot on it, carry handle mounted, which is zeroed for 50/250.
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Posted: 3/2/2020 8:29:03 PM EDT
[#26]
I'm sure its fine, I just use 50 because it's what my local indoor rifle range has available and its a solid, proven zero for most any fighting long-gun. The rifle range has stands/lights at 25 and 50. 25 is useless to me, and I can't put the target in the in-between area at 36 anyway, so 50 it is.
I've never missed a shot on a hog with my 50y zero and I've taken them from 15 yards to 100+ yards. |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 8:29:54 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I sight in PCCs at 25 yards |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 8:49:34 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It’s a 25m zero. |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 8:55:36 PM EDT
[#29]
Ive been debating what zero to use across all my ARS. Ive got 16, 20 and a 10". Obviously 50yd is best for the 10 but I want something for all other 3 that also corresponds with the markings on my drums. So far Ive liked RIBZ which is an improved version of IBZ that adds the 100yd zero. Only problem is you have to memorize all those settings or tape a list to your rifle for what clicks are what. If you're going to memorize then youd better make it standard for all your rifles.
The RIBZ is great because theres no 36yd or 25m distances at local ranges. Its either 50yd or 100yd+, so that cuts out any mil spec zeros. Isnt the drum set for meters and the Army standard of 25m zero? |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 8:57:44 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
For fucks sale just say 25m zero then I’m not on here to do math . Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: It’s a 25m zero. 
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Posted: 3/2/2020 8:59:27 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ive been debating what zero to use across all my ARS. Ive got 16, 20 and a 10". Obviously 50yd is best for the 10 but I want something for all other 3 that also corresponds with the markings on my drums. So far Ive liked RIBZ which is an improved version of IBZ that adds the 100yd zero. Only problem is you have to memorize all those settings or tape a list to your rifle for what clicks are what. If you're going to memorize then youd better make it standard for all your rifles. The RIBZ is great because theres no 36yd or 25m distances at local ranges. Its either 50yd or 100yd+, so that cuts oit any mil spec zeros. Isnt the drum set for meters and the Army standard of 25m zero? |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 9:01:46 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: So you are worried about shooting at 170 yards and not worried about shooting at 200 yards or 250 yards? That makes zero sense. Again, this is also the case with all of the other zero distances (25/50/100). The hardest part of shooting at an unknown distance at a target, is range estimation. Over time and practice you can definitely at good at it. But at the end of the day, give me the zero that will keep my shots in as tight of a group as possible. And yes, I consider my AR15 to be a 300 yard gun with a red dot. Actually a 400 yard gun with a red dot. Watch the the video that was already linked to in this thread on page 1. You might actually learn something. For a 5.56 AR15/M4 with a red dot, a 36 yard zero is a very valid zero to use.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jttB1kUXfJE
https://i.imgur.com/AWUREmJ.png https://i.imgur.com/vgmAN5k.png 36 yard zero has a tighter group out to 250 yards than a 25 yard zero. 36 yard zero has about the same tightness of group out to 250 yards as a 50 yard zero. 36 yard zero has a tighter group out to 250 yards than a 100 yard zero. I actually prefer a 75 yard zero, but the 100 makes sense, too. The probability in a fight is shorter range and smaller target, the 36 has a high enough trajectory to miss a head size target at 170. I’ll sacrifice performance past 200 to improve performance within 200. |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 9:11:42 PM EDT
[#33]
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Posted: 3/2/2020 9:16:12 PM EDT
[#34]
It all dependent upon:
the round you’re using - velocity and ballistic coefficient Desired operational range Type of sight* And to some extent sight height above bore Run your load through a good ballistics calculator with various zero distances and figure out which one requires the least amount of hold over within your operational range. For example, M855 your holds would be: 200 yard (which is also a 36 yard zero), between 0 and 325 yards the lowest your shot is 1.77 (around 125 yards) but is 11.5 over at 325 250 yard zero (or around 30 yard zero) is 3.48 low @150, but only 7.4” over at 325 100 yard, is only 2” +/- from zero to 177 yards, almost 17 over @325 *BDC reticles are calculated for specific loads and have to be zeroed at exact distances to work optimally |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 9:33:19 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This isn't about what is happening to your target, whether the target is paper, steel, an animal or a real human. It is about you as the shooter being able to get good and consistent hits on target. If looking for a zero to use with your AR for out to 300 yards, the 36 yard zero is the flatest zero in terms of spread. Being able to have a zero that has a +/- of only 5" max all the way out to 300 yards is very useful and simple to use. https://i.imgur.com/81Rti4q.png Basically the two zeroes have different vital zone radius for their respective MPBRs. Every zero has ranges where hold-over/under kicks in. Calling coyotes the 36/300 you wind up holding under at about the mid-range where you can see movement and discern a target. I’ve hit high contrast 3-4 MOA targets at 550 yds from supported positions with just a red dot and judgmental holdovers on a 20” 5.56 with a 200 yard zero but that’s in calm conditions and a feature rich background. A 36 yard zero wouldn’t change the task. On full silhouettes if you know the holdovers either 100, 200, 300 works well enough out to 400 yards on chest targets. The 50 yard zero works well across a lot of calibers and velocities with high sights around 2.5” above bore. |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 9:42:12 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The 200 yard zero is a lot flatter out to 250 yards than the 36 yard zero. If you think you might need hits on smaller targets inside 250 yards, giving up 50 yards center hold on bigger targets isn’t a bad trade. A 2MOA red dot and 2MOA ammo matches well out to 200 yards. Even at 250 yards A zone hits are still very high probability under mechanical precision since the target zone has more vertical area. Basically the two zeroes have different vital zone radius for their respective MPBRs. Every zero has ranges where hold-over/under kicks in. Calling coyotes the 36/300 you wind up holding under at about the mid-range where you can see movement and discern a target. I’ve hit high contrast 3-4 MOA targets at 550 yds from supported positions with just a red dot and judgmental holdovers on a 20” 5.56 with a 200 yard zero but that’s in calm conditions and a feature rich background. A 36 yard zero wouldn’t change the task. On full silhouettes if you know the holdovers either 100, 200, 300 works well enough out to 400 yards on chest targets. The 50 yard zero works well across a lot of calibers and velocities with high sights around 2.5” above bore. If some guys view their AR as only a 100 yard gun or only a 175 yard and in gun, then yeah their wants for a zero will differ. Or for those that want to shoot varmint. But for a man sized target out to +300 yards a 36 yard zero with a spread of only 5" makes a lot of sense if using a red dot on your carbine. |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 9:49:01 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: So most of my shooting is from 50-300 with a carbine. Seems that the 36 yard zero has less deviation than the 50. 50 is very similar until you get into longer ranges. At 300 your having to apply quite a bit of hold over. FYI not being an ass or anything, serious question. Most people seem to like 50. |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 9:55:12 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Because I've never seen a range with a 36 yard marker and I'm too lazy to move a target stand around while someone lasers the distance. 
https://www.vigilanceelite.com/blogs/vigilance-elite-blogs/36-yard-zero |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 10:02:04 PM EDT
[#39]
After reading through this I may change over a few rifles to 50 and run them.
The smaller spread makes sense. Hold overs are pretty easy. I’ll try it out. |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 10:05:22 PM EDT
[#40]
I am not against it
but RIBZ kinda sorts that all out---and if in a hurry--can still hit without messing with the elevation knobs that is with irons of course with anything else----bdc does it for you---do what your optic says to do so it is correct and voila |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 10:08:01 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
@ConcernedCitizen https://i.imgur.com/ua4oOqN.jpg With your 25 yard zero shooting a 10" plate at 300 yards, holding at the top of the 10" plate would have you miss the plate completely. Because at 300 yards the trajectory of the bullet is 7.5" HIGH at 300 yards with your zero. You would need to aim 2.5" below the 10" plate 300 yards to hit dead center at 300 yards. https://i.imgur.com/prZU7mc.png See how hard it is to know your range and your hold overs from behind a computer with the 25 yard zero. So again, with you shooting at a 10" plate at 300 yards with a 25 yard zero, you would need to aim 2.5" under the bottom of the plate to hit center of the plate. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Huh? So what is your hold over to hit a 10" plate at 300yds? I'll hold dead center with my 36 yd zero. https://i.imgur.com/ua4oOqN.jpg With your 25 yard zero shooting a 10" plate at 300 yards, holding at the top of the 10" plate would have you miss the plate completely. Because at 300 yards the trajectory of the bullet is 7.5" HIGH at 300 yards with your zero. You would need to aim 2.5" below the 10" plate 300 yards to hit dead center at 300 yards. https://i.imgur.com/prZU7mc.png See how hard it is to know your range and your hold overs from behind a computer with the 25 yard zero. So again, with you shooting at a 10" plate at 300 yards with a 25 yard zero, you would need to aim 2.5" under the bottom of the plate to hit center of the plate.
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Posted: 3/3/2020 1:05:27 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @ConcernedCitizen https://i.imgur.com/ua4oOqN.jpg With your 25 yard zero shooting a 10" plate at 300 yards, holding at the top of the 10" plate would have you miss the plate completely. Because at 300 yards the trajectory of the bullet is 7.5" HIGH at 300 yards with your zero. You would need to aim 2.5" below the 10" plate 300 yards to hit dead center at 300 yards. https://i.imgur.com/prZU7mc.png See how hard it is to know your range and your hold overs from behind a computer with the 25 yard zero. So again, with you shooting at a 10" plate at 300 yards with a 25 yard zero, you would need to aim 2.5" under the bottom of the plate [color=#ff0000]to hit center of the plate. I don't look at it that way. Consider the following... Your intended target has a vital area 12" in diameter. A hit anywhere within the vital area is considered a good hit. Doesn't matter if the hit is high or low, right or left ventricle, right or left lung, spleen...whatever, so long as it is within the vital area it's a good hit. So, with a 36yd zero, a shot aimed at center mass (ALWAYS aimed at the center of the 12" vital area) you should achieve a "good hit" at the following ranges with POI relative to the center of the vitals as indicated. : 0yd 3" low 25yd .8" low 50yd 1" high 75yd 2.6" high 100yd 3.9" high 125yd 4.9" high 150yd 5.5" high 175yd 5.8" high 200yd 5.7" high 225yd 5.2" high 250yd 4.3" high 275yd 2.9" high 300yd 1.1" high 325yd 1.3" low 350yd 4.2" low Again, a shot taken at any of these ranges should result in a "good hit" to a 12" vital area. There are no hold-overs/hold-unders that you need to remember to apply. Place Dot/crosshair center mass, squeeze the trigger, hit vitals, rinse, repeat. I'd much rather be effective at longer ranges which might keep an enemy from advancing. Rather than possibly being less effective at longer ranges and having to engage targets closer in. So how far does one want to be effective without needing to recall holds? I say as far as possible. My 2 cents... |
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Posted: 3/3/2020 1:08:22 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Huh? So what is your hold over to hit a 10" plate at 300yds? I'll hold dead center with my 36 yd zero. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted: 3. A 100 zero...for what, I'm not sure... So what is your hold over to hit a 10" plate at 300yds? I'll hold dead center with my 36 yd zero.  Attached FileI’ll just hold center on the second dot while my 50/200 zero lets me hold center dot from 0-225. Not exactly hard. |
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Posted: 3/3/2020 1:10:58 AM EDT
[#44]
Any zero mo bettah than no zero.
200 yd. zero is best for most things. Out to 300 you can just hold on the hair and yank the trigger, with mostly positive results. |
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Posted: 3/3/2020 1:11:16 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/84345/D6F76CC2-B07E-4B03-AD32-4CCF9463E6BD_jpe-1299887.JPG I’ll just hold center on the second dot while my 50/200 zero lets me hold center dot from 0-225. Not exactly hard. |
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Posted: 3/3/2020 1:18:33 AM EDT
[#46]
I dislike doing hard math when I zero. I might take a short shot to make sure I will be on paper at either 100 yards or 100 meters. Then I will zero at 100 so I can click it in easy. Generally that will give me point of aim at 100 & 200, with +/- 2 inches of offset at anything in between. Seems like a lot of scopes have a hash then for 300,400, & 500. No math is good math.
—- That said, finished putting together a new upper Sunday, will start to sight it in soon. I will see what bullet it likes, then deal with loads, then figure out what -0- makes the most sense. I suspect I will ultimately be using 78gr bullets, but who knows what the barrel might like. I have been surprised before. IIRC I used the above with 55gr, so maybe it will work this time, maybe not. |
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Posted: 3/3/2020 1:21:11 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I don't look at it that way. Consider the following... Your intended target has a vital area 12" in diameter. A hit anywhere within the vital area is considered a good hit. Doesn't matter if the hit is high or low, right or left ventricle, right or left lung, spleen...whatever, so long as it is within the vital area it's a good hit. Quote HistoryQuoted:
I don't look at it that way. Consider the following... Your intended target has a vital area 12" in diameter. A hit anywhere within the vital area is considered a good hit. Doesn't matter if the hit is high or low, right or left ventricle, right or left lung, spleen...whatever, so long as it is within the vital area it's a good hit. Quoted:
I'd much rather be effective at longer ranges which might keep an enemy from advancing. Rather than possibly being less effective at longer ranges and having to engage targets closer in. I'm also assuming the probability of a civilian shooting beyond 200 yards is near zero. My thought is I want a very flat trajectory out to about 200, and I'm willing to accept a fast drop off after that. If I have a red dot I set it up for a 75 yard zero, if it is a magnified optic I set it up according to what is specified for that scope. So my LPVO has a 50/200, and my ACOG is set for 100. I've shot AR15s out to 800 yards in competition, using iron sights, prone with sling. But realistically, with a red dot on a carbine getting good accuracy from field positions could be difficult, particularly if you are using M193. If longer range is important to you, a magnified optic and match grade heavy bullet loads are something you would want to help make it happen. |
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Posted: 3/3/2020 1:28:51 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I dislike doing hard math when I zero. I might take a short shot to make sure I will be on paper at either 100 yards or 100 meters. Then I will zero at 100 so I can click it in easy. Generally that will give me point of aim at 100 & 200, with +/- 2 inches of offset at anything in between. Seems like a lot of scopes have a hash then for 300,400, & 500. No math is good math. With an AR, you have a high sight offset and also a flat trajectory. The result is you can use zeros like the 50/200, where the bullet crosses line of sight at 50 and 200 and is slightly high in between. It makes for a long point blank range. Point blank is the distance you simply aim at the target and shoot with the basic sight setting with no adjustment or holdover. However, part of the point blank calculation is the size of the intended target, and my assumption is that in practice, it will be smaller than what some other people here expect. |
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Posted: 3/3/2020 1:42:33 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
[/color] I don't look at it that way. Consider the following... Your intended target has a vital area 12" in diameter. A hit anywhere within the vital area is considered a good hit. Doesn't matter if the hit is high or low, right or left ventricle, right or left lung, spleen...whatever, so long as it is within the vital area it's a good hit. So, with a 36yd zero, a shot aimed at center mass (ALWAYS aimed at the center of the 12" vital area) you should achieve a "good hit" at the following ranges with POI relative to the center of the vitals as indicated. : 0yd 3" low 25yd .8" low 50yd 1" high 75yd 2.6" high 100yd 3.9" high 125yd 4.9" high 150yd 5.5" high 175yd 5.8" high 200yd 5.7" high 225yd 5.2" high 250yd 4.3" high 275yd 2.9" high 300yd 1.1" high 325yd 1.3" low 350yd 4.2" low Again, a shot taken at any of these ranges should result in a "good hit" to a 12" vital area. There are no hold-overs/hold-unders that you need to remember to apply. Place Dot/crosshair center mass, squeeze the trigger, hit vitals, rinse, repeat. I'd much rather be effective at longer ranges which might keep an enemy from advancing. Rather than possibly being less effective at longer ranges and having to engage targets closer in. So how far does one want to be effective without needing to recall holds? I say as far as possible. My 2 cents... That's why I like the 50 yard zero. Same idea, but now it's a 4" vital area out to 250 yards, and only a slight holdover at 300. To me, this gives me a lot more confidence in the ability to hit smaller targets, or be more precise in where I hit a target. My rifles are more of a utility rifle than a battle rifle, so this personally works best for me. I can definitely see the appeal of the 36 yard zero for social use, though. |
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Posted: 3/3/2020 1:45:19 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @ConcernedCitizen https://i.imgur.com/ua4oOqN.jpg With your 25 yard zero shooting a 10" plate at 300 yards, holding at the top of the 10" plate would have you miss the plate completely. Because at 300 yards the trajectory of the bullet is 7.5" HIGH at 300 yards with your zero. You would need to aim 2.5" below the 10" plate 300 yards to hit dead center at 300 yards. https://i.imgur.com/prZU7mc.png See how hard it is to know your range and your hold overs from behind a computer with the 25 yard zero. So again, with you shooting at a 10" plate at 300 yards with a 25 yard zero, you would need to aim 2.5" under the bottom of the plate to hit center of the plate. |
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