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Posted: 5/12/2024 8:15:51 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Into_the_Void: How the hell can someone fuck up a unit bearing Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Into_the_Void: Originally Posted By NwG: I use primarily Timken for all things. Bad parts from good manufacturers are rare, far more often the problem is with who installed them. How the hell can someone fuck up a unit bearing Over/under torquing the hub nut. |
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MD, USA
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Posted: 5/12/2024 9:39:02 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Waldo: I also take the retard thing into account.  Having watched a YouTube.video or two, there are a lot of retards with wrenches. A lot. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 9:41:51 PM EDT
[#3]
Please buy Timken.
You’re helping me out directly. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 9:46:15 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: Please buy Timken. You’re helping me out directly. I did, only because I couldn't find an OEM hub assembly. I guess I'll see how it works out. Spicer for the joints. |
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MT, USA
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Posted: 5/13/2024 12:58:17 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Into_the_Void: How the hell can someone fuck up a unit bearing Failing to use a torque wrench |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 1:08:35 AM EDT
[#6]
Nachi (Japan) are top quality bearings. I used them when I rebuilt my motorcycle.
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Posted: 5/13/2024 2:26:54 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By xd341: I use 4 ugga duggas on the milwaukee problem solver. Torque is such a fussy thing to get accurate it's almost useless for the average person. That's why critical stuff is torque to yield these days, the smarts are in the fastener. |
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USA
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Posted: 5/13/2024 4:34:08 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Stahlgewehr762]
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Positronic: ...Even genuine Timken are Xhinese made now. This has been my experience as well. Be sure you check the packaging for the country of origin. I stopped buying Timken and paying their premium price when they started making their hub bearings in Chy-nuh. I've had decent luck with the Chi-com hub bearings, including the two Chinese-made Timken units I bought. They generally seem to last around 50,000 miles before they start growling. |
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NY, USA
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Posted: 5/13/2024 6:59:16 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: Please buy Timken. You’re helping me out directly. Timken are junk. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/13/2024 7:43:36 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Into_the_Void: Stick with timken. Even if their quality has gone down, they're still the safest bet. Hasn't skf gone completely to China? Keep in mind failure rates have probably gone up from assholes running 14" wheels with 13" offsets Now that the retard fad of installing spacers and/or ridiculous offset rims has taken off, I see trucks on the side of the road missing front wheels several times a year. I have even seen one with the front wheel on one side at a severe angle the road going down an interstate. I have no idea how the happy fuck driving it couldn't tell that his wheel was coming off. He just kept driving. One of the trucks that lost a wheel was on the feeder road sitting on what was left of the brake rotor and the wheel was far ahead standing up perfectly. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/13/2024 7:46:03 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Waldo: It would be hard to over torque it by hand since I think it's somewhere around 250-260 ft. lbs. Different story if you have a monkey with a 1" impact gun though.  |
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NY, USA
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Posted: 5/13/2024 8:06:52 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Into_the_Void: Hasn't skf gone completely to China? SKF makes some of the highest quality bearings in the world, made in Sweden and the USA. Like most other bearing manufactures they also make cheaper bearings in Mexico and Asia. |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 8:18:48 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DayandNight1701: Wtf is a "unit bearing?" I've been a mechanic for 20+ years and never heard the term. You mean a pre-installed hub flange wheel bearing and all you have to do is bolt it in? Say like on a 2004ish Chevy truck? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DayandNight1701: Originally Posted By Into_the_Void: How the hell can someone fuck up a unit bearing Wtf is a "unit bearing?" I've been a mechanic for 20+ years and never heard the term. You mean a pre-installed hub flange wheel bearing and all you have to do is bolt it in? Say like on a 2004ish Chevy truck?  |
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MI, USA
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Posted: 5/13/2024 8:46:40 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By APBullet: SKF, FAG, TIMKEN, NSK, NTN, NACHI, and KOYO, are all OEM to various car manufactures. Yes. And their aftermarket offerings are a mix of OEM parts that they make, OEM parts they source from competitors, and the rest are from wherever, sometimes import junk to fill out their line if they can't get oem parts from competitors or the competitor parts are prohibitively expensive. Also, some suppliers will make the OEM part in one plant while it's in production and then move it to one of their offshore plants when it goes out of production and becomes service/aftermarket only. Whatever you buy, you really need to check the actual part in the box as sometimes aftermarket parts are reboxed. |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 10:55:48 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote History Originally Posted By Jeffg:SKF makes some of the highest quality bearings in the world, made in Sweden and the USA. Like most other bearing manufactures they also make cheaper bearings in Mexico and Asia. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Jeffg:Originally Posted By Into_the_Void: Hasn't skf gone completely to China? SKF makes some of the highest quality bearings in the world, made in Sweden and the USA. Like most other bearing manufactures they also make cheaper bearings in Mexico and Asia. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/13/2024 12:29:05 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Waldo: It would be hard to over torque it by hand since I think it's somewhere around 250-260 ft. lbs. Different story if you have a monkey with a 1" impact gun though. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Waldo: Originally Posted By VVinci: I'm not familiar with this particular setup, but if it is possible to screw up the preload, that will do it to a bearing for sure, no matter the bearing quality. Too little is every bit as bad as too much. And as someone else noted, running a drastically different wheel offset will do it too. It would be hard to over torque it by hand since I think it's somewhere around 250-260 ft. lbs. Different story if you have a monkey with a 1" impact gun though. And there you have your answer. Under-torquing is a good possibility, as is over-torquing. Torque = preload. |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 12:34:51 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By VVinci: And there you have your answer. Under-torquing is a good possibility, as is over-torquing. Torque = preload. If they were opposed tapered roller bearings I'd say yeah it's probably critical to pre-load them correctly. But given that the primary force acting on them is radial and that they are big enough to install dual row deep grove ball bearings that almost always have the preload built into the the assembly....I bet that isn't actually controlling preload. That seems like the kind of thing they wouldn't trust a tech to get right. Also they spec a torque, not a turning resistance or measurement or any of the actual ways you set bearing preload. Torque is so variable... |
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Posted: 5/13/2024 10:10:35 PM EDT
[#18]
Well, I finished that side of the truck after I got back from having the doc shoot my foot full of cortisone.
Shit got expensive. $208 ish for a questionable maybe Timken hub assembly $78 for a single Spicer U-joint $50 ish for a pair of new dust shields. WTF? Figure $650 for the whole front axle to just do bearings and joints. Brakes, rotors and everything else were fine. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 5:46:26 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Waldo: Well, I finished that side of the truck after I got back from having the doc shoot my foot full of cortisone. Shit got expensive. $208 ish for a questionable maybe Timken hub assembly $78 for a single Spicer U-joint $50 ish for a pair of new dust shields. WTF? Figure $650 for the whole front axle to just do bearings and joints. Brakes, rotors and everything else were fine. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 6:29:57 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Agilt: I tend to try to stay OEM or SKF, etc on bearings. Timken is sometimes overseas now too. I tend to temper the reviews with the understanding that it's certainly possible to get bad stuff out of the box, and it happens more often now, but it's entirely possible that it was installed by a retard. Overseas doesn’t mean bad. Timken bearings are some of the best. I have timkens made in the USA, China, France, and Italy. All the same. Avoid budget brands and you will be fine. Random failures do happen. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 6:51:22 AM EDT
[#21]
I know a guy who has been having problems with the ABS system in his truck. He put new front hubs on his 4WD Chevy about a year ago. His mechanic has been all over it (not sure what they've done but he's been complaining about intermittent problems and finally all the time problems for a few months now). Had speed sensor issues on one and the car parts place offered him two new hub assemblies. His mechanic installed those and the problem went away for a couple weeks and came back. Now his mechanic tells him the two new hub assemblies are the issue. That'll be four front hub assemblies in less than two years. No idea of the brand but I know it went just over 135,000 on the original front hub assemblies.
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WI, USA
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Posted: 5/14/2024 7:01:24 AM EDT
[#22]
"OEM" is not a safe bet. And has not been for some time now. OEM's beat up their suppliers for pricing. And then beat them up more. The original hub units on my 2003 GMC 2500 with stock wheels/tires failed at less than 80K miles. The aftermarket (don't remember the brand) units are OK at 40K so far. Time will tell but my confidence level in "OEM" is fairly low.
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Posted: 5/14/2024 7:04:11 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By M1A4ME: I know a guy who has been having problems with the ABS system in his truck. He put new front hubs on his 4WD Chevy about a year ago. His mechanic has been all over it (not sure what they've done but he's been complaining about intermittent problems and finally all the time problems for a few months now). Had speed sensor issues on one and the car parts place offered him two new hub assemblies. His mechanic installed those and the problem went away for a couple weeks and came back. Now his mechanic tells him the two new hub assemblies are the issue. That'll be four front hub assemblies in less than two years. No idea of the brand but I know it went just over 135,000 on the original front hub assemblies. The bearings would have to be pretty bad to throw an ABS code. The hub I just changed was really bad and it never threw a code. Maybe the tone rings came loose or something. I've never cut one open to see how they are attached to the rotating assembly. |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 5/14/2024 7:11:16 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By xd341: I'm not sure if that's true actually. If they were opposed tapered roller bearings I'd say yeah it's probably critical to pre-load them correctly. But given that the primary force acting on them is radial and that they are big enough to install dual row deep grove ball bearings that almost always have the preload built into the the assembly....I bet that isn't actually controlling preload. That seems like the kind of thing they wouldn't trust a tech to get right. Also they spec a torque, not a turning resistance or measurement or any of the actual ways you set bearing preload. Torque is so variable... Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By xd341: Originally Posted By VVinci: And there you have your answer. Under-torquing is a good possibility, as is over-torquing. Torque = preload. If they were opposed tapered roller bearings I'd say yeah it's probably critical to pre-load them correctly. But given that the primary force acting on them is radial and that they are big enough to install dual row deep grove ball bearings that almost always have the preload built into the the assembly....I bet that isn't actually controlling preload. That seems like the kind of thing they wouldn't trust a tech to get right. Also they spec a torque, not a turning resistance or measurement or any of the actual ways you set bearing preload. Torque is so variable... The unit hubs do not require preload. They are built to be somewhat idiot-proof and quick to install on the assembly line. The axle nut, if we're talking front-wheel-drive or 4WD, only holds the outer axle stub in the hub so torque is not critical. |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 5/14/2024 7:14:36 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Waldo: The bearings would have to be pretty bad to throw an ABS code. The hub I just changed was really bad and it never threw a code. Maybe the tone rings came loose or something. I've never cut one open to see how they are attached to the rotating assembly. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Waldo: Originally Posted By M1A4ME: I know a guy who has been having problems with the ABS system in his truck. He put new front hubs on his 4WD Chevy about a year ago. His mechanic has been all over it (not sure what they've done but he's been complaining about intermittent problems and finally all the time problems for a few months now). Had speed sensor issues on one and the car parts place offered him two new hub assemblies. His mechanic installed those and the problem went away for a couple weeks and came back. Now his mechanic tells him the two new hub assemblies are the issue. That'll be four front hub assemblies in less than two years. No idea of the brand but I know it went just over 135,000 on the original front hub assemblies. The bearings would have to be pretty bad to throw an ABS code. The hub I just changed was really bad and it never threw a code. Maybe the tone rings came loose or something. I've never cut one open to see how they are attached to the rotating assembly. Not necessarily, especially here in the rust belt. I've seen a number of GM vehicles with the embedded ABS sensors throwing codes even with perfectly good bearings. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 7:18:04 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By diesel1: Not necessarily, especially here in the rust belt. I've seen a number of GM vehicles with the embedded ABS sensors throwing codes even with perfectly good bearings. Also a bearing going out often throws an ABS code |
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