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Link Posted: 9/22/2015 2:14:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: mxdgood84] [#1]
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Originally Posted By dangerdan:
For the reloaders, there no difference in primers between CCIs 400 and BR4. The only difference is who's running the machine(s). Better QC on the BR4 (and any bench rest primer)

The 5.56 41 primers have a harder cup than the 400s.
 
View Quote

This. I prefer 41s but mostly use 400s because It's what I have. BR4s are gtg though.

I'll add N135 to the powder list because I've had really good luck with it behind 77 SMK and 77 Noslers. And the usual RE15, Varget, and TAC do a good job too.

Old SAM-R pic placeholder :
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 2:16:21 PM EDT
[#2]
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Originally Posted By Jax_Guns:
For the people that bought McKay A1s, did they fix the machining marks on where the buffer tube attaches, you can see it in this pic.

http://www.mckay-ent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/2/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/r/m/rma1-2_receiver.jpg
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For some reason I actually like the machining marks. But not clone correct, soooo......
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 2:51:15 PM EDT
[#3]

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Originally Posted By Zakk101abn:


Bolt carriers got em in stock (edit: preorder) boyz!!! 20 units. Y'all get em!!



FF RAS



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I wish I had the desire to buy one but it's just not there. Seems wrong!

 
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 2:54:50 PM EDT
[#4]
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Originally Posted By plante74:
I wish I had the desire to buy one but it's just not there. Seems wrong!  
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Originally Posted By plante74:
Originally Posted By Zakk101abn:
Bolt carriers got em in stock (edit: preorder) boyz!!! 20 units. Y'all get em!!

FF RAS

I wish I had the desire to buy one but it's just not there. Seems wrong!  

If I had the funds I'd buy em' all and only sell them to the regulars in here at cost, to prevent bonkers trying to flip them for 550 on the EE again

I pity the foo.
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 3:06:21 PM EDT
[#5]
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Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:

If I had the funds I'd buy em' all and only sell them to the regulars in here at cost, to prevent bonkers trying to flip them for 550 on the EE again

I pity the foo.
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Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By plante74:
Originally Posted By Zakk101abn:
Bolt carriers got em in stock (edit: preorder) boyz!!! 20 units. Y'all get em!!

FF RAS

I wish I had the desire to buy one but it's just not there. Seems wrong!  

If I had the funds I'd buy em' all and only sell them to the regulars in here at cost, to prevent bonkers trying to flip them for 550 on the EE again

I pity the foo.


550 you say..Well I didn't actually need the one I ordered so might have to score some sweet EE cash...
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 3:19:12 PM EDT
[#6]
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Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
If I had the funds I'd buy em' all and only sell them to the regulars in here at cost, to prevent bonkers trying to flip them for 550 on the EE again
View Quote

I don't see people doing that this time around.
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 3:19:41 PM EDT
[#7]
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Originally Posted By voodochild:


550 you say..Well I didn't actually need the one I ordered so might have to score some sweet EE cash...
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Originally Posted By voodochild:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By plante74:
Originally Posted By Zakk101abn:
Bolt carriers got em in stock (edit: preorder) boyz!!! 20 units. Y'all get em!!

FF RAS

I wish I had the desire to buy one but it's just not there. Seems wrong!  

If I had the funds I'd buy em' all and only sell them to the regulars in here at cost, to prevent bonkers trying to flip them for 550 on the EE again

I pity the foo.


550 you say..Well I didn't actually need the one I ordered so might have to score some sweet EE cash...



Link Posted: 9/22/2015 3:39:17 PM EDT
[Last Edit: lancecriminal86] [#8]
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Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:

For some reason I actually like the machining marks. But not clone correct, soooo......
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Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By Jax_Guns:
For the people that bought McKay A1s, did they fix the machining marks on where the buffer tube attaches, you can see it in this pic.

http://www.mckay-ent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/2/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/r/m/rma1-2_receiver.jpg

For some reason I actually like the machining marks. But not clone correct, soooo......


Why chose a McKay vs a Nodak if the machining is like that?

Other note, if taking the time to order a Nodak, or refinishing an 80% to A1 via breceman, one should get a black anodized hardcoat. While original A1 receivers would have had the gray anodize, the A1s involved in the Mk12 program were black. Unless I am missing something here and the A1 receivers were already black from the factory vs Colt gray anodizing?





Link Posted: 9/22/2015 3:44:34 PM EDT
[#9]
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Originally Posted By boltcarrier:

I don't see people doing that this time around.
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Originally Posted By boltcarrier:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
If I had the funds I'd buy em' all and only sell them to the regulars in here at cost, to prevent bonkers trying to flip them for 550 on the EE again

I don't see people doing that this time around.


Get a bunch of them in?
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 4:06:10 PM EDT
[#10]
I wont even bother with NDS. They are behind in production of basically all ar parts. The whole point of NDS was to have retro items AVAILABLE lol.



I agree go braceman with an 80 and rollmark whatever ya want. He seems to be the best bet. Just dyracoat it black and it will wear nicely (under the paint)
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 4:14:21 PM EDT
[#11]
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Originally Posted By HaveBlue83:
I wont even bother with NDS. They are behind in production of basically all ar parts. The whole point of NDS was to have retro items AVAILABLE lol.

I agree go braceman with an 80 and rollmark whatever ya want. He seems to be the best bet. Just dyracoat it black and it will wear nicely (under the paint)
View Quote

LC, this is what I was just about to type. I would actually prefer spud A1's (I need a pair myself)

They're just barely ever in stock. McKay I have no experience with, but even with the machining marks it does look to be a fairly high quality receiver. I'd probably try to get a blem price for the machining lines though, even though I could get rid of those fairly easily.

But if NDS has em' in stock when I have the funds ready to go, I'd definitely buy the NDS'
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 4:19:59 PM EDT
[#12]
Is it possible to get a Hydramatic lower?
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 4:23:43 PM EDT
[#13]

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Originally Posted By Movistar:


Is it possible to get a Hydramatic lower?
View Quote




 
How much money do you have?
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 4:26:10 PM EDT
[#14]
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Originally Posted By Movistar:
Is it possible to get a Hydramatic lower?
View Quote


A real Auto A1 lower? Might be some on NFA circulation, not sure though.

Your other choice is get Hydramatic markings engraved on a NDS, McKay, or Braceman'd 80% lower. Simpler than doing Colt markings and probably less pushback from the engraver regarding Colt trademark logos, which I hear has become an issue with Ident marking services.
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 4:31:24 PM EDT
[Last Edit: KGLaw] [#15]
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Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:

LC, this is what I was just about to type. I would actually prefer spud A1's (I need a pair myself)

They're just barely ever in stock. McKay I have no experience with, but even with the machining marks it does look to be a fairly high quality receiver. I'd probably try to get a blem price for the machining lines though, even though I could get rid of those fairly easily.

But if NDS has em' in stock when I have the funds ready to go, I'd definitely buy the NDS'
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Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By HaveBlue83:
I wont even bother with NDS. They are behind in production of basically all ar parts. The whole point of NDS was to have retro items AVAILABLE lol.

I agree go braceman with an 80 and rollmark whatever ya want. He seems to be the best bet. Just dyracoat it black and it will wear nicely (under the paint)

LC, this is what I was just about to type. I would actually prefer spud A1's (I need a pair myself)

They're just barely ever in stock. McKay I have no experience with, but even with the machining marks it does look to be a fairly high quality receiver. I'd probably try to get a blem price for the machining lines though, even though I could get rid of those fairly easily.

But if NDS has em' in stock when I have the funds ready to go, I'd definitely buy the NDS'


Problem with the McKay is that the reinforcement in the rear isn't shaped like any A1 that existed.  It'll never look right, unless they switch forgings for one that has the A2 reinforcement all the way to the rear of the receiver.  



This one is extreme, but when highlighting something extreme is good. See how the reinforcement is a narrow band that doesn't extend to the rear? Look at the McKay.

And an original , though late, lower


Early lower. Straight reinforcement. Though this an XM16E1, early A1 lowers profile for the reinforcement were the same.


So it all depends on how accurate you want to be. NoDak's lowers are early. So I got a Pre-1968 bolt carrier to go with it (though I sold it... )  
I believe all GM and H&R lowers should have the rounded reinforcement.   If you're trying to duplicate them exactly, having Braceman reprofile one will net a closer clone.
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 4:37:11 PM EDT
[#16]
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Originally Posted By Hunterex:


Problem with the McKay is that the reinforcement in the rear isn't shaped like any A1 that existed.  It'll never look right, unless they switch forgings for one that has the A2 reinforcement all the way to the rear of the receiver.  

http://picturearchive.gunauction.com/462123311/7631660/2e349dabe0e02f8bff444a1b2cd9e83d.jpg

This one is extreme, but when highlighting something extreme is good. See how the reinforcement is a narrow band that doesn't extend to the rear? Look at the McKay.

And an original , though late, lower
http://photos.imageevent.com/smglee/clt2/RR-1.jpg

Early lower. Straight reinforcement.
https://bpullignwolnet.dotster.com/retroblackrifle/sitebuilder/images/XM16E1-Right-409x291.jpg

So it all depends on how accurate you want to be. NoDak's lowers are early. So I got a Pre-1968 bolt carrier to go with it (though I sold it... )  
I believe all GM and H&R lowers should have the rounded reinforcement.   If you're trying to duplicate them exactly, having Braceman reprofile one will net a closer clone.
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Originally Posted By Hunterex:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By HaveBlue83:
I wont even bother with NDS. They are behind in production of basically all ar parts. The whole point of NDS was to have retro items AVAILABLE lol.

I agree go braceman with an 80 and rollmark whatever ya want. He seems to be the best bet. Just dyracoat it black and it will wear nicely (under the paint)

LC, this is what I was just about to type. I would actually prefer spud A1's (I need a pair myself)

They're just barely ever in stock. McKay I have no experience with, but even with the machining marks it does look to be a fairly high quality receiver. I'd probably try to get a blem price for the machining lines though, even though I could get rid of those fairly easily.

But if NDS has em' in stock when I have the funds ready to go, I'd definitely buy the NDS'


Problem with the McKay is that the reinforcement in the rear isn't shaped like any A1 that existed.  It'll never look right, unless they switch forgings for one that has the A2 reinforcement all the way to the rear of the receiver.  

http://picturearchive.gunauction.com/462123311/7631660/2e349dabe0e02f8bff444a1b2cd9e83d.jpg

This one is extreme, but when highlighting something extreme is good. See how the reinforcement is a narrow band that doesn't extend to the rear? Look at the McKay.

And an original , though late, lower
http://photos.imageevent.com/smglee/clt2/RR-1.jpg

Early lower. Straight reinforcement.
https://bpullignwolnet.dotster.com/retroblackrifle/sitebuilder/images/XM16E1-Right-409x291.jpg

So it all depends on how accurate you want to be. NoDak's lowers are early. So I got a Pre-1968 bolt carrier to go with it (though I sold it... )  
I believe all GM and H&R lowers should have the rounded reinforcement.   If you're trying to duplicate them exactly, having Braceman reprofile one will net a closer clone.

Are the McKay's slabside? I was under the impression most Mk12 A1's were full fence A1's like the Mk18.

But I do see the reenforcement difference you're talking about. Way different.
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 4:39:23 PM EDT
[Last Edit: KGLaw] [#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:

Are the McKay's slabside? I was under the impression most Mk12 A1's were full fence A1's like the Mk18.

But I do see the reenforcement difference you're talking about. Way different.
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Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By Hunterex:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By HaveBlue83:
I wont even bother with NDS. They are behind in production of basically all ar parts. The whole point of NDS was to have retro items AVAILABLE lol.

I agree go braceman with an 80 and rollmark whatever ya want. He seems to be the best bet. Just dyracoat it black and it will wear nicely (under the paint)

LC, this is what I was just about to type. I would actually prefer spud A1's (I need a pair myself)

They're just barely ever in stock. McKay I have no experience with, but even with the machining marks it does look to be a fairly high quality receiver. I'd probably try to get a blem price for the machining lines though, even though I could get rid of those fairly easily.

But if NDS has em' in stock when I have the funds ready to go, I'd definitely buy the NDS'


Problem with the McKay is that the reinforcement in the rear isn't shaped like any A1 that existed.  It'll never look right, unless they switch forgings for one that has the A2 reinforcement all the way to the rear of the receiver.  

http://picturearchive.gunauction.com/462123311/7631660/2e349dabe0e02f8bff444a1b2cd9e83d.jpg

This one is extreme, but when highlighting something extreme is good. See how the reinforcement is a narrow band that doesn't extend to the rear? Look at the McKay.

And an original , though late, lower
http://photos.imageevent.com/smglee/clt2/RR-1.jpg

Early lower. Straight reinforcement.
https://bpullignwolnet.dotster.com/retroblackrifle/sitebuilder/images/XM16E1-Right-409x291.jpg

So it all depends on how accurate you want to be. NoDak's lowers are early. So I got a Pre-1968 bolt carrier to go with it (though I sold it... )  
I believe all GM and H&R lowers should have the rounded reinforcement.   If you're trying to duplicate them exactly, having Braceman reprofile one will net a closer clone.

Are the McKay's slabside? I was under the impression most Mk12 A1's were full fence A1's like the Mk18.

But I do see the reenforcement difference you're talking about. Way different.


You beat my edit.   I used a pic of an XM16E1 as it saved me from digging up an early A1 full fence, and the reinforcement will be the same.

Here's an early full fence lower with square reinforcement
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 4:41:39 PM EDT
[#18]
Gotcha.

Well that does add another +1 for the NDS, doesn't it?
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 4:43:56 PM EDT
[Last Edit: KGLaw] [#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Gotcha.

Well that does add another +1 for the NDS, doesn't it?
View Quote


Only if you're content with doing an early Colt. But yeah, their lowers are amazing.  But they start with an A1 forging and go a 110% in on it.  I've had four, but if the availability were higher I would have twice that at least.
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 4:47:46 PM EDT
[#20]
Can we get a consolidated price guesstimate for buying an 80%, having Braceman engrave/profile, black hardcoat anodize, and then finished by the owner? I'd figure you want the Braceman work and anodizing done before finishing for shipping and law reasons.

In my case I have none of the gear needed to drill an 80% out, but an NDS seems slightly out of reach as well. How about buying an anodized lower and just covering up the areas Braceman does his work on with aluminumblack or some other coating? Obviously it will get rattlecanned afterwards but the textures would be different, right?
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 4:49:42 PM EDT
[#21]
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Originally Posted By Hunterex:


Only if you're content with doing an early Colt. But yeah, their lowers are amazing.  But they start with an A1 forging and go a 110% in on it.  I've had four, but if the availability were higher I would have twice that at least.
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Originally Posted By Hunterex:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Gotcha.

Well that does add another +1 for the NDS, doesn't it?


Only if you're content with doing an early Colt. But yeah, their lowers are amazing.  But they start with an A1 forging and go a 110% in on it.  I've had four, but if the availability were higher I would have twice that at least.

I definitely need to snag a pair. For clones I'd prefer they were already machined, but I think they make an 80 percenter version of this full fence as well don't they?

I'd be content with snagging a pair of those and getting a HF drill press. (Unlike the okie ass method I've been using/fucking up 80 percenter with.

No hand drills will be seeing my A1 lowers, that's for shizzle.
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 4:50:02 PM EDT
[#22]
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Originally Posted By lancecriminal86:
Can we get a consolidated price guesstimate for buying an 80%, having Braceman engrave/profile, black hardcoat anodize, and then finished by the owner? I'd figure you want the Braceman work and anodizing done before finishing for shipping and law reasons.

In my case I have none of the gear needed to drill an 80% out, but an NDS seems slightly out of reach as well. How about buying an anodized lower and just covering up the areas Braceman does his work on with aluminumblack or some other coating? Obviously it will get rattlecanned afterwards but the textures would be different, right?
View Quote

Hold one.
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 4:50:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dangerdan] [#23]




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Originally Posted By lancecriminal86:





Can we get a consolidated price guesstimate for buying an 80%, having Braceman engrave/profile, black hardcoat anodize, and then finished by the owner? I'd figure you want the Braceman work and anodizing done before finishing for shipping and law reasons.
In my case I have none of the gear needed to drill an 80% out, but an NDS seems slightly out of reach as well. How about buying an anodized lower and just covering up the areas Braceman does his work on with aluminumblack or some other coating? Obviously it will get rattlecanned afterwards but the textures would be different, right?
View Quote







 
I'd personally mill a raw receiver, get it engraved, and then anodized.






What would happen after you spend all that money on engraving and anodizing, only to fuck up during milling? And even if you did a good job at the milling, the innards would be raw and unprotected.




 







US Anodizing prices (Type III):





$100 for raw lower receiver



$150 for re-ano


 
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 4:54:53 PM EDT
[Last Edit: MILSPEC556] [#24]
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Originally Posted By lancecriminal86:
Can we get a consolidated price guesstimate for buying an 80%, having Braceman engrave/profile, black hardcoat anodize, and then finished by the owner? I'd figure you want the Braceman work and anodizing done before finishing for shipping and law reasons.

In my case I have none of the gear needed to drill an 80% out, but an NDS seems slightly out of reach as well. How about buying an anodized lower and just covering up the areas Braceman does his work on with aluminumblack or some other coating? Obviously it will get rattlecanned afterwards but the textures would be different, right?
View Quote

Here's some braceman prices. I know some are missing but it should give you a rough guesstimate. (The reprofiling was from A2 to A1)


$50 80% lower 
$40 for A1 profile (from A2)
$25 for engraving 


+ $7.00 shipping. 

Not sure on the anodizing
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 5:01:19 PM EDT
[#25]

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Originally Posted By dangerdan:





  I'd personally mill a raw receiver, get it engraved, and then anodized.





What would happen after you spend all that money on engraving and anodizing, only to fuck up during milling? And even if you did a good job at the milling, the innards would be raw and unprotected.

 



US Anodizing prices (Type III):

$100 for raw lower receiver

$150 for re-ano

 
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Originally Posted By dangerdan:



Originally Posted By lancecriminal86:

Can we get a consolidated price guesstimate for buying an 80%, having Braceman engrave/profile, black hardcoat anodize, and then finished by the owner? I'd figure you want the Braceman work and anodizing done before finishing for shipping and law reasons.



In my case I have none of the gear needed to drill an 80% out, but an NDS seems slightly out of reach as well. How about buying an anodized lower and just covering up the areas Braceman does his work on with aluminumblack or some other coating? Obviously it will get rattlecanned afterwards but the textures would be different, right?


  I'd personally mill a raw receiver, get it engraved, and then anodized.





What would happen after you spend all that money on engraving and anodizing, only to fuck up during milling? And even if you did a good job at the milling, the innards would be raw and unprotected.

 



US Anodizing prices (Type III):

$100 for raw lower receiver

$150 for re-ano

 




 
Braceman = 80% only. No FFL there. He wpuldnt engrave my done 80. I agree but not the easiest to do. engrave, mill, then coat it
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 5:28:26 PM EDT
[#26]
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Originally Posted By nicholasgentges:


Get a bunch of them in?
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Originally Posted By nicholasgentges:
Originally Posted By boltcarrier:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
If I had the funds I'd buy em' all and only sell them to the regulars in here at cost, to prevent bonkers trying to flip them for 550 on the EE again

I don't see people doing that this time around.


Get a bunch of them in?

Eh -- a moderate amount.  I mean I don't see the same demand for them that there was.
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 5:30:17 PM EDT
[#27]
So how important is having a Colt receiver when building a Mk12 upper?  Are there any acceptable alternatives?
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 5:33:02 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dangerdan] [#28]


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Originally Posted By boltcarrier:



So how important is having a Colt receiver when building a Mk12 upper?  Are there any acceptable alternatives?
View Quote





 
Use whatever


 



As long as its forged
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 5:41:54 PM EDT
[#29]
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Originally Posted By mxdgood84:

This. I prefer 41s but mostly use 400s because It's what I have. BR4s are gtg though.

I'll add N135 to the powder list because I've had really good luck with it behind 77 SMK and 77 Noslers. And the usual RE15, Varget, and TAC do a good job too.

Old SAM-R pic placeholder :
<a href="http://s1167.photobucket.com/user/Scatmanc2727/media/38081B2F-0A32-410A-A9D5-F978E8D09FA1_zpsijps3ijv.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q627/Scatmanc2727/38081B2F-0A32-410A-A9D5-F978E8D09FA1_zpsijps3ijv.jpg</a>
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Originally Posted By mxdgood84:
Originally Posted By dangerdan:
For the reloaders, there no difference in primers between CCIs 400 and BR4. The only difference is who's running the machine(s). Better QC on the BR4 (and any bench rest primer)

The 5.56 41 primers have a harder cup than the 400s.
 

This. I prefer 41s but mostly use 400s because It's what I have. BR4s are gtg though.

I'll add N135 to the powder list because I've had really good luck with it behind 77 SMK and 77 Noslers. And the usual RE15, Varget, and TAC do a good job too.

Old SAM-R pic placeholder :
<a href="http://s1167.photobucket.com/user/Scatmanc2727/media/38081B2F-0A32-410A-A9D5-F978E8D09FA1_zpsijps3ijv.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q627/Scatmanc2727/38081B2F-0A32-410A-A9D5-F978E8D09FA1_zpsijps3ijv.jpg</a>

Excuse me Sir but where can I find that buttstock sling adapter?!
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 5:43:55 PM EDT
[#30]
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Originally Posted By MNRidesHonda:

Excuse me Sir but where can I find that buttstock sling adapter?!
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Originally Posted By MNRidesHonda:
Originally Posted By mxdgood84:
Originally Posted By dangerdan:
For the reloaders, there no difference in primers between CCIs 400 and BR4. The only difference is who's running the machine(s). Better QC on the BR4 (and any bench rest primer)

The 5.56 41 primers have a harder cup than the 400s.
 

This. I prefer 41s but mostly use 400s because It's what I have. BR4s are gtg though.

I'll add N135 to the powder list because I've had really good luck with it behind 77 SMK and 77 Noslers. And the usual RE15, Varget, and TAC do a good job too.

Old SAM-R pic placeholder :
<a href="http://s1167.photobucket.com/user/Scatmanc2727/media/38081B2F-0A32-410A-A9D5-F978E8D09FA1_zpsijps3ijv.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q627/Scatmanc2727/38081B2F-0A32-410A-A9D5-F978E8D09FA1_zpsijps3ijv.jpg</a>

Excuse me Sir but where can I find that buttstock sling adapter?!



Clothing sales.
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 5:51:43 PM EDT
[#31]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By MNRidesHonda:

Excuse me Sir but where can I find that buttstock sling adapter?!
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By MNRidesHonda:
Originally Posted By mxdgood84:
Originally Posted By dangerdan:
For the reloaders, there no difference in primers between CCIs 400 and BR4. The only difference is who's running the machine(s). Better QC on the BR4 (and any bench rest primer)

The 5.56 41 primers have a harder cup than the 400s.
 

This. I prefer 41s but mostly use 400s because It's what I have. BR4s are gtg though.

I'll add N135 to the powder list because I've had really good luck with it behind 77 SMK and 77 Noslers. And the usual RE15, Varget, and TAC do a good job too.

Old SAM-R pic placeholder :
<a href="http://s1167.photobucket.com/user/Scatmanc2727/media/38081B2F-0A32-410A-A9D5-F978E8D09FA1_zpsijps3ijv.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q627/Scatmanc2727/38081B2F-0A32-410A-A9D5-F978E8D09FA1_zpsijps3ijv.jpg</a>

Excuse me Sir but where can I find that buttstock sling adapter?!


Looks like blue force gear.
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 6:03:19 PM EDT
[#32]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Hunterex:


Looks like blue force gear.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Hunterex:
Originally Posted By MNRidesHonda:
Originally Posted By mxdgood84:
Originally Posted By dangerdan:
For the reloaders, there no difference in primers between CCIs 400 and BR4. The only difference is who's running the machine(s). Better QC on the BR4 (and any bench rest primer)

The 5.56 41 primers have a harder cup than the 400s.
 

This. I prefer 41s but mostly use 400s because It's what I have. BR4s are gtg though.

I'll add N135 to the powder list because I've had really good luck with it behind 77 SMK and 77 Noslers. And the usual RE15, Varget, and TAC do a good job too.

Old SAM-R pic placeholder :
<a href="http://s1167.photobucket.com/user/Scatmanc2727/media/38081B2F-0A32-410A-A9D5-F978E8D09FA1_zpsijps3ijv.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q627/Scatmanc2727/38081B2F-0A32-410A-A9D5-F978E8D09FA1_zpsijps3ijv.jpg</a>

Excuse me Sir but where can I find that buttstock sling adapter?!


Looks like blue force gear.

That's the one
https://www.blueforcegear.com/a2-buttstock-adapter.html
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 6:31:53 PM EDT
[#33]
Where is everyone finding KAC free float RAS? Can't seem to source one anywhere.
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 6:39:07 PM EDT
[#34]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By jaw187:
Where is everyone finding KAC free float RAS? Can't seem to source one anywhere.
View Quote


https://www.boltcarrier.com/product/free-float-ras-long/

12 left. Do to it.
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 7:35:42 PM EDT
[#35]
Anyone looking for an a1 lower should give Harlan a call at NDS and ask, the black anodized lowers usually have way less of a wait time than the gray/retro anodized.  Worth a quick call, my last one was ready in 2-3 weeks.
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 8:05:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: nihilsum] [#36]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Mattyvac:
Question for reloaders...what powder, primers, and brass are ya'll using for your MK12 77grn loads? This is assuming you're using Sierra 77 pills.
View Quote


Powders used- 2000MR, 8208XBR, TAC

Brass- LC, PRVI, Centurion

Bullets- Sierra 77gr w/c, Nosler CC 77gr (much cheaper)

All loading done on a progressive press.

(douglas 18" barrel)

Most accurate:
2000MR- 25.2gr at 2.250"
Centurion brass
2560 av
20 ES
11 SD

Almost as good (most accurate with 8208):
8208 23.4 gr at 2.250- exceeds 223 load data
LC brass
2624 AV
41 es
19 sd

Duplicates mk262 velocity (most accurate with TAC was 24.3):
LC Brass
24.5 TAC at 2.250 (this is 5.56 data and above 223 load data)
2750 av
46 es
20 sd


I wish I had used LC brass for the 2000MR to keep it even, and may come back around to it. It is much slower than the other two and I was chasing Mk262 ballistics at the time. All three powders throw charges well, with TAC and 2000MR being slightly better. I did load 2000mr all the way up to 262 velocities without pressure signs, and SD was lower than TAC, but it was way above published max. I did not group it.
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 8:20:44 PM EDT
[#37]
I don't like TAC. Makes my brass tarnish when shooting suppressed
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 8:38:50 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ArmedFerret] [#38]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By nihilsum:


Powders used- 2000MR, 8208XBR, TAC

Brass- LC, PRVI, Centurion

Bullets- Sierra 77gr w/c, Nosler CC 77gr (much cheaper)

All loading done on a progressive press.

(douglas 18" barrel)

Most accurate:
2000MR- 25.2gr at 2.50"
Centurion brass
2560 av
20 ES
11 SD

Almost as good (most accurate with 8208):
8208 23.4 gr at 2.50- exceeds 223 load data
LC brass
2624 AV
41 es
19 sd

Duplicates mk262 velocity (most accurate with TAC was 24.3):
LC Brass
24.5 TAC at 2.50 (this is 5.56 data and above 223 load data)
2750 av
46 es
20 sd


I wish I had used LC brass for the 2000MR to keep it even, and may come back around to it. It is much slower than the other two and I was chasing Mk262 ballistics at the time. All three powders throw charges well, with TAC and 2000MR being slightly better. I did load 2000mr all the way up to 262 velocities without pressure signs, and SD was lower than TAC, but it was way above published max. I did not group it.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By nihilsum:
Originally Posted By Mattyvac:
Question for reloaders...what powder, primers, and brass are ya'll using for your MK12 77grn loads? This is assuming you're using Sierra 77 pills.


Powders used- 2000MR, 8208XBR, TAC

Brass- LC, PRVI, Centurion

Bullets- Sierra 77gr w/c, Nosler CC 77gr (much cheaper)

All loading done on a progressive press.

(douglas 18" barrel)

Most accurate:
2000MR- 25.2gr at 2.50"
Centurion brass
2560 av
20 ES
11 SD

Almost as good (most accurate with 8208):
8208 23.4 gr at 2.50- exceeds 223 load data
LC brass
2624 AV
41 es
19 sd

Duplicates mk262 velocity (most accurate with TAC was 24.3):
LC Brass
24.5 TAC at 2.50 (this is 5.56 data and above 223 load data)
2750 av
46 es
20 sd


I wish I had used LC brass for the 2000MR to keep it even, and may come back around to it. It is much slower than the other two and I was chasing Mk262 ballistics at the time. All three powders throw charges well, with TAC and 2000MR being slightly better. I did load 2000mr all the way up to 262 velocities without pressure signs, and SD was lower than TAC, but it was way above published max. I did not group it.



Did you mean 2.250"?

Single loading kinda defeats the purpose of a semi-auto.
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 8:39:30 PM EDT
[#39]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By dangerdan:


I don't like TAC. Makes my brass tarnish when shooting suppressed
View Quote


tac gave me wild groups. dont remember the brass colors tho.





NDS said 2 months ago :we should do another run of A1's (80) before the end of the year........"



PS they also run on the "low side of specs" to make a tighter fit "because customers were complaining that they were too loose". I have bought a half fence M16A1 from them and no uppers fit it without dremeling the upper. they made them like this on purpose. its retarded but they did it FOR the uninformed customers who wanted NO WIGGLE.



+1,000,000 for getting an A2 redone by braceman and milling it out for a SPEC A1 with Hydra-matic rollmarks (because who wants a colt? )



 
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 8:42:59 PM EDT
[#40]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ArmedFerret:
Did you mean 2.250"?

Single loading kinda defeats the purpose of a semi-auto.
View Quote


Fixed; thank you. The other data is correct. I've never tried to load that long with 77gr OTMs. I wonder if they would even chamber single loaded.
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 8:44:37 PM EDT
[#41]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By nihilsum:


Fixed; thank you. The other data is correct. I've never tried to load that long with 77gr OTMs. I wonder if they would even chamber single loaded.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By nihilsum:
Originally Posted By ArmedFerret:
Did you mean 2.250"?

Single loading kinda defeats the purpose of a semi-auto.


Fixed; thank you. The other data is correct. I've never tried to load that long with 77gr OTMs. I wonder if they would even chamber single loaded.



Oh they'd chamber.

And they'd likely have a decent kiss from the lands if you pulled that round out without firing it.
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 8:49:18 PM EDT
[#42]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ArmedFerret:


Get the KAC, set the LaRue aside for a recce build.
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Originally Posted By ArmedFerret:
Originally Posted By Exospeed:
Dang it, I just can't win!!!

I got an email notification for the KAC FF that I submitted for 6 months ago. I already picked up a laRue FF rail instead since I never thought I would be able to find a KAC FF since the demand is so high.
Now i'm out of $ and can't get it... My SPR will not be a true MK12, but as long as it shoots good i guess...

If anyone here is looking for a KAC FF for their MK12 Mod1 Pre orders now accepted:
https://www.boltcarrier.com/product/free-float-ras-long/


Get the KAC, set the LaRue aside for a recce build.


I wish I could, I really do, but I just don't have the $ for one until after Christmas. Hopefully I will be able to get one sometime early next year. I'll submit more email notices and hope I get one when I have $...
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 8:56:32 PM EDT
[#43]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Exospeed:


I wish I could, I really do, but I just don't have the $ for one until after Christmas. Hopefully I will be able to get one sometime early next year. I'll submit more email notices and hope I get one when I have $...
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Exospeed:
Originally Posted By ArmedFerret:
Originally Posted By Exospeed:
Dang it, I just can't win!!!

I got an email notification for the KAC FF that I submitted for 6 months ago. I already picked up a laRue FF rail instead since I never thought I would be able to find a KAC FF since the demand is so high.
Now i'm out of $ and can't get it... My SPR will not be a true MK12, but as long as it shoots good i guess...

If anyone here is looking for a KAC FF for their MK12 Mod1 Pre orders now accepted:
https://www.boltcarrier.com/product/free-float-ras-long/


Get the KAC, set the LaRue aside for a recce build.


I wish I could, I really do, but I just don't have the $ for one until after Christmas. Hopefully I will be able to get one sometime early next year. I'll submit more email notices and hope I get one when I have $...


I wouldn't worry. Everyone likes to say the current batch will be the last one. Never is.
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 9:11:36 PM EDT
[#44]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By dangerdan:

  Use whatever
 

As long as its forged
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By dangerdan:
Originally Posted By boltcarrier:
So how important is having a Colt receiver when building a Mk12 upper?  Are there any acceptable alternatives?

  Use whatever
 

As long as its forged


Depends on the end goal. Want a true Clone to use as ammo to fling poop at heretics? Colt for all mods, Armalite and Diemaco extra points for early uppers.

If you aren't going balls out, Colt stamped everything, any good forged, non branded/BSed upper would work. If you are painting then just paint over any branding anyways.
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 9:33:35 PM EDT
[#45]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By dangerdan:
I don't like TAC. Makes my brass tarnish when shooting suppressed
View Quote


I like TAC it is very consistent when it comes to temperature and humidity. It is also dirty as shit but I never notice any excessive tarnish.  My brass is always fifthly when shooting suppressed. I was able to load to Tac 2800 FPS but did blow some primers.
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 9:42:11 PM EDT
[#46]
Finally. I finally got a rail. Thanks Boltcarrier.  I submitted a "notify me" with every place on the internet that sells them. The only email I got for notification was from boltcarrier.  Figured $350 was better than the $550 that these will be going for again a week or so.
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 9:49:49 PM EDT
[#47]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By bkjeffrey383:


Finally. I finally got a rail. Thanks Boltcarrier.  I submitted a "notify me" with every place on the internet that sells them. The only email I got for notification was from boltcarrier.  Figured $350 was better than the $550 that these will be going for again a week or so.
View Quote




 
$350 is a fantastic price.
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 9:51:30 PM EDT
[#48]
Ok, for those interested in purchasing the Ops pattern long collars here is the best way to proceed.

Go to www.badgerordnance.com and register under the Dealer Program. Instead of putting a company name in the form use "ARFCOM MK12" instead and the account will be approved. (Note, you do NOT need to provide FFL, business license, etc. Just fill out the basic account info.)

From there you'll be able to purchase the Mk12 long collars (P/N 249-32) directly from the website.

Any questions just let me know.
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 10:10:16 PM EDT
[#49]
What's the time frame on account approval?
Link Posted: 9/22/2015 10:19:42 PM EDT
[#50]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By secretwheelman:
What's the time frame on account approval?
View Quote


I'll approve all of them applied for tonight first thing tomorrow morning. Any account applied for after 1700 Central will be approved the following morning after 0900.
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