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Posted: 8/20/2011 10:47:16 AM EST
[#1]
with an automatic punch like this
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Posted: 8/20/2011 10:52:13 AM EST
[#2]
the above punch or a regular one work just fine. it doesn't take much to move the metal, so don't hit it like it's sleeping with your wife.
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Posted: 8/20/2011 11:40:30 AM EST
[#3]
Support the buffer tube and lock ring so they do not move when you stake the thing.
Edge of a dull screwdriver pressed at a slight angle. Bash the tool with a large hammer (hand sledge) and make the metal move with the one strike. You get a nice square shaped gouge of metal into the lock ring cut-out. Touch up with a dab of cold blue to protect the finish. All done. If you miss your swing and bash the damn thing slightly off, you can get a good sized elongated scratch along the buffer tube 
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Posted: 8/20/2011 11:53:43 AM EST
[#4]
Quoted:
with an automatic punch like this http://www.tien-i.com/img/Product_content/automatic-punch.jpg +1 
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Posted: 8/20/2011 11:58:23 AM EST
[#5]
Quoted:
with an automatic punch like this http://www.tien-i.com/img/Product_content/automatic-punch.jpg This. It will also unstake it if you ever want to take it off. |
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Posted: 8/20/2011 12:06:21 PM EST
[#6]
I use a dab of locktite
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Posted: 8/20/2011 12:33:34 PM EST
[#7]
Quoted:
I use a dab of locktite You must work for RRA!  
I use a scratch awl and hammer, but the above posted job done with an automatic punch looks better. |
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Posted: 8/20/2011 12:46:12 PM EST
[#8]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I use a dab of locktite You must work for RRA!
I use a scratch awl and hammer, but the above posted job done with an automatic punch looks better. Only if it is red loctite. I use a drop of blue with good results on guns that I know I am going to be in again or customer's guns that I don't want to hammer on. Run across other brands of guns that have had red on them too, but the RRA ones are the most aggravating.
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Posted: 8/20/2011 1:03:01 PM EST
[#9]
Quoted:
with an automatic punch like this http://www.tien-i.com/img/Product_content/automatic-punch.jpg This^^^^ and a drop of Blue Locktight. makes it very easy. |
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Posted: 8/20/2011 1:05:42 PM EST
[#10]
I use a 1/2 in chisel that I rounded the edge on..gives great stakes on carrier keys as well.
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Posted: 8/20/2011 1:07:21 PM EST
[#11]
as said above, but be careful with aluminum sling mount end plates, and dont even try to stake a Magpul ASAP.
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Posted: 8/20/2011 1:13:02 PM EST
[#12]
Quoted:
as said above, but be careful with aluminum sling mount end plates, and dont even try to stake a Magpul ASAP. Do tell...? |
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Posted: 8/20/2011 1:18:35 PM EST
[#13]
Quoted:
Quoted:
as said above, but be careful with aluminum sling mount end plates, and dont even try to stake a Magpul ASAP. Do tell...? I've done it once. It is a little larger in diameter than a regular plate and it looks like utter crap when done. I hate having to resort to using loctite in most cases, but the castle nut is one of those places where it works fine. The shop demo gun had a DD qd plate that is aluminum. I run that gun until it is impossible to hold and the blue has not failed me yet. |
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Posted: 8/20/2011 1:24:19 PM EST
[#14]
n/m
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Posted: 8/20/2011 1:26:59 PM EST
[#15]
Quoted:
Quoted:
with an automatic punch like this http://www.tien-i.com/img/Product_content/automatic-punch.jpg This^^^^ and a drop of Blue Locktight. makes it very easy. Plus 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5. Auto punch and some Blue Loctite. |
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Posted: 8/20/2011 1:34:07 PM EST
[#16]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I use a dab of locktite You must work for RRA!
I use a scratch awl and hammer, but the above posted job done with an automatic punch looks better. I use a scratch awl and hammer too. I have two different automatic punches and they are not strong enough to make much of a dent. What brand auto punch works well for those who use them, particularly the job pictured above? |
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Posted: 8/20/2011 1:43:57 PM EST
[#17]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I use a dab of locktite You must work for RRA!
I use a scratch awl and hammer, but the above posted job done with an automatic punch looks better. I use a scratch awl and hammer too. I have two different automatic punches and they are not strong enough to make much of a dent. What brand auto punch works well for those who use them, particularly the job pictured above? MIne was a $9 Home Depot special, works great. |
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Posted: 8/20/2011 1:51:39 PM EST
[#18]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
as said above, but be careful with aluminum sling mount end plates, and dont even try to stake a Magpul ASAP. Do tell...? I've done it once. It is a little larger in diameter than a regular plate and it looks like utter crap when done. I hate having to resort to using loctite in most cases, but the castle nut is one of those places where it works fine. The shop demo gun had a DD qd plate that is aluminum. I run that gun until it is impossible to hold and the blue has not failed me yet. I just didn't know if it was super hardened or something. Mine staked ok, but I don't really care how it looks as long as it holds. I have a punch I ground to a rectangle tip and use that for staking. 
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Posted: 8/20/2011 2:02:04 PM EST
[#19]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
as said above, but be careful with aluminum sling mount end plates, and dont even try to stake a Magpul ASAP. Do tell...? I've done it once. It is a little larger in diameter than a regular plate and it looks like utter crap when done. I hate having to resort to using loctite in most cases, but the castle nut is one of those places where it works fine. The shop demo gun had a DD qd plate that is aluminum. I run that gun until it is impossible to hold and the blue has not failed me yet. I just didn't know if it was super hardened or something. Mine staked ok, but I don't really care how it looks as long as it holds. I have a punch I ground to a rectangle tip and use that for staking. http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg76/gi57/Misc/P8201981.jpg http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg76/gi57/Misc/P8201982.jpg http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg76/gi57/Misc/P8201983.jpg This is what I did as well. Does not look pretty, but it does the job. |
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Posted: 8/20/2011 3:45:15 PM EST
[#20]
+1 locktite. A little locktite and some elbow grease to get the castle nut tight. It won't come loose.
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Posted: 8/20/2011 3:59:45 PM EST
[#21]
A staking punch and a hammer... less than a buck and does the same as all of the above mentioned.
IF you loctite, do not under any circumstances use red. A very small amount of blue will work. But I vastly prefer staking. |
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Posted: 8/20/2011 5:33:19 PM EST
[#22]
I used a concrete nail as it was the closest thing around when I was doing mine.
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Posted: 8/20/2011 7:23:26 PM EST
[#23]
You learn something new every day...
I put loctite on mine, and now I can't get it off. I've broken three wrenches trying. 
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Posted: 8/20/2011 7:37:02 PM EST
[#24]
Quoted:
You learn something new every day... I put loctite on mine, and now I can't get it off. I've broken three wrenches trying. Barrel blocks to hold tube, torch to heat it, and another wrench. |
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Posted: 8/20/2011 7:39:35 PM EST
[#25]
I've used locktite, staked the threads and staked the traditional way. As far as I'm concerned the buffer tube is part of the lower now.
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Posted: 8/20/2011 7:46:21 PM EST
[#26]
$5.99 spring loaded punch like mentioned works for me. Much better control than hammer and punch. Just pop it a few times till you get the desired stake.
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Posted: 8/21/2011 4:08:20 AM EST
[#27]
Quoted: Quoted: as said above, but be careful with aluminum sling mount end plates, and dont even try to stake a Magpul ASAP. Do tell...? Yes, please clarify. I used an automatic center punch to stake both of mine. It isn't pretty but it works. |
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Posted: 8/21/2011 3:29:26 PM EST
[#28]
Is it really necessary to stake the end plate with the castle nut? Had my rifles for how many years now and my castle nut in each are not staked. No issues whatsoever not even a sign that the nut has moved. My 'smith just torqued it nice and tight.
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Posted: 8/21/2011 4:10:04 PM EST
[#29]
Grind down a broken punch.
Strike with a hammer a couple of times, flow the metal into the castle nut. 
Done! |
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Posted: 8/21/2011 4:34:04 PM EST
[#30]
I used a big ass screw driver and a hammer. Not as nice looking as a factory made stake, but it is functional.
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Posted: 8/21/2011 5:22:28 PM EST
[#31]
Center punch and hammer.........
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Posted: 8/22/2011 4:57:08 AM EST
[#32]
Quoted:
Is it really necessary to stake the end plate with the castle nut? Had my rifles for how many years now and my castle nut in each are not staked. No issues whatsoever not even a sign that the nut has moved. My 'smith just torqued it nice and tight. I had one back off on my 6520 at the range even after I torqued it down. Now I stake all of them. |
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Posted: 8/22/2011 4:58:25 AM EST
[#33]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
as said above, but be careful with aluminum sling mount end plates, and dont even try to stake a Magpul ASAP. Do tell...? Yes, please clarify. I used an automatic center punch to stake both of mine. It isn't pretty but it works. Learn something new every day. Maybe the ones I attempted were hardened a bit more.
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Posted: 8/22/2011 5:11:53 AM EST
[#34]
Just in case, how do you remove a staked castle nut?
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Posted: 8/22/2011 5:20:25 AM EST
[#35]
Quoted:
Just in case, how do you remove a staked castle nut? I use a punch and a small hobby file to move/remove the displaced metal. The trick is to take your time. |
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Posted: 8/22/2011 6:06:21 AM EST
[#36]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
as said above, but be careful with aluminum sling mount end plates, and dont even try to stake a Magpul ASAP. Do tell...? Yes, please clarify. I used an automatic center punch to stake both of mine. It isn't pretty but it works. Learn something new every day. Maybe the ones I attempted were hardened a bit more. I bet the early ones were tougher, the new one I got looks like MIM and was rather soft. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 8/22/2011 6:27:46 AM EST
[#37]
Quoted:
Is it really necessary to stake the end plate with the castle nut? Had my rifles for how many years now and my castle nut in each are not staked. No issues whatsoever not even a sign that the nut has moved. My 'smith just torqued it nice and tight. I too have had many rifles and never had one back off, however I do currently stake them as Mr. Murphy llikes to only show up at the wrong time. Its been my observation that stock mounted slings tend to make this a bigger issue since they are constantly torquing on the RE which can work it lose if not staked. |
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Posted: 8/22/2011 7:02:03 AM EST
[#38]
I bought an auto center punch at harbor freight. Normally $4.99, on sale for $3.99
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Posted: 8/22/2011 7:13:19 AM EST
[#39]
My staking came out super ugly but who the hell cares? If I had a gun that was a showroom only kind of piece I wouldn't stake it.
Feel free to look at my thread on it awhile back. Someone commented on it that it looks like a retard went crazy with a jack hammer. We all gotta learn the hard way sometimes! |
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