Just ordered one of the 15" versions.
Anyone else using this rail? Will a shaved fsb fit under it?
Can't wait until it comes in. It's going on my 20" hunting AR.

 
I love my EMR V2:






IIRC, I measured the ID of mine once for someone that asked is their shaved FSB would fit, and I believe it was going to fit. I'm running a WOA SS low-profile gas block on mine.

That is a 16" MDWS .277WLV barrel.






 

ETA: And, to give you an idea of what a 15" looks like on a 20" hunting rig, here is mine with a 15" Geissele SMR MK1:

I have a 15" V1 and it's great.  A low profile .936" gas block fit under it, so I think a shaved FSB will work just fine.
 

Here's a pic of mine (for reference, it's a 24" varmint barrel).

I have Emr mlok v1. A SLR block fits with room to spare. Even the mlok rails can attach right above the gas block.

15" V2 on my 18" SPR...

Got the rail.
Installation was a little weird but think I figured it out.
Some quick photo's after install.
The shaved FSB fit perfectly with a lot of room to spare.

Did anyone else have trouble getting the alg recommended shim pack to work? The reading on the wrench called for one blue and one black shim but the combo did not work after several attempts. I tried the next size up up and it was close but still did not line up. Then I tryed both blue shims and the back shim and the pre touque lined up perfectly. Contacted alg and they said the pack should only call for one blue but there should not be an issue with using both as long as the pre torque lined up and the barrel tightened normally..was just wondering if it was normal to have to use more shims than needed during instal as I'm thinking of getting another for my 16 inch rifle. If alg seems fine with it I guess there isn't an issue..just seems weird to have to guess..don't see how the extra shim could hurt anything though.. May be just over thinking it.

 
Throwing this out there since it isn't obvious to some people - you're supposed to use a tool like a pipe or a wrench to do the final tightening.  Basically you tighten until the nut lines up with the gas tube hole.  You won't be able to get there with just your hand.

 
Not with the EMR ....






It does not use the standard barrel nut...




 

I know it doesn't use a standard barrel but, I installed one myself.  You use the pipe/wrench on the nub on the installation tool they provide.  All of the pre-indexing that is performed is done with your bare hands, then once you figure out the correct shims you crank that sucker on (within reason) with something that gives you a bit more leverage.


Let me put it this way: would you trust a barrel but that's only on there hand tight?


 

You can use a leverage device if needed.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HvM6FGhZAH4

I understand the tightening is done with a pipe fitted to the included wrench. My issue was with the pre toque fitting and shims..once I found the shims that gave me the proper pre toque setting I tightened it until the gas rube slot and torque notch on the wrench were in the proper position.

I installed both of mine without needing anything other than the included tool, however, you're correct. As far as it being hand tight, I'm pretty confident that I was able to torque it more than 35 ft.lbs.



Anyhow, I misspoke, as I was replying to your post becuase of your comments about lining up the nut with the gas tube hole on the upper. I was thinking of the nut on my Geissele SMR rails, which does not require indexing.






My apologoies.




 

 
No worries, we're all just trying to make sure this guy has the right info.

OP - did you use proper lubricant on the threads?

I used moly bearing grease as I do with all my barrel installs. The reading on the wrench was simply wrong. I consistently got the "one blue shim and one black shim"
reading when hand tightening the barrel nut to check the pre toque setting using the black shim as specified.
I then place the blue shim on the barrel and reinstalled the barrel nut to hand tight. applied the wrench at the proper 3 0 clock position and the pre torque notch was far from even with the middle of the receiver.
The only shim combo that allowed the pre-toque notch to line up was both blue shims and the black.
Just thought it was odd and wondered if anyone else has run into issues with the instructions/shims.
ALG doesn't seem too worried about it, just wanted to put my mind at ease that using the 3 shims was not out of the norm.

I basically got the same reading and installed the same shims as this guy with the same results. once all three shims were installed we both got a correct reading for the pre-toque notch and finished torquing the barrel.
But per the instructions (and ALG) this notch on the wrench or supposed to be one blue shim and one back. however both myself and the guy in this vid received the proper reading using both blue shims.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HvM6FGhZAH4

Hmmm im interested in your findings as I have one of these on order and will be installing it shortly.  What kind of upper were you using?

I got mine installed on Saturday, it was super easy and the shims (thankfully) worked for me. Soild rail, great price too for a 15", $115.50 for a blem that looks perfect

Upper is a PSA 20 inch chrome bore ect just a basic PSA with factory barrel.
To be clear, once the three shims were on, the barrel did seem to tighten normally.
most people have no issues with the instructions and standard shim kits. I have gathered by looking around on a few forums that some do have to mix and match shims to get the proper results.
If the shims had worked per the instructions the install would have been super fast and easy. finding the correct shim pack to give the proper reading had me scratching my head for a while though.
Its just weird to read the instructions 100 times and do everything correctly only to come up with different results than described in the instructions.
Not going to lie, there were a few minuted there where I was considering throwing the thing out the window
I'm going to run it as it is since ALG said it should be good to go. although they did your the word "should" which concerns me
If it blows up or I shoot the barrel and rail down range, i''ll post pics

I've installed two.  One worked just like the instructions said.  The other, none of the combinations of shims listed in the instructions worked.  I had to try various combos that weren't listed until I found one that worked by trial and error.

The first rail was the one that required trial and error to install.  It didn't stop me from buying a second.  If I ever need a third rail, chances are it will be a EMR.

That's what I'm starting to gather..most have no issues and every now and then you just have to try different shims until you find what works. What shims ended up working on your first rail if you  don't mind me asking and can remember?
Its a great rail. Quality is top notch for the price..weight is excellent and design is great. The mounting method is very neat..just confusing if your new to it lol

Also wanted to mention that ALG was super fast in answering my question..within a few hours by email and were very polite. You can tell they are used too dealing with boneheads like myself trying to understand their mounting system.

I think it might have been a blue and purple..or black and purple....

Those rails look great. I'm so tempted to order one for my next build.

So bottom line - when properly shimmed its hand tight at the torque band - and you use leverage (pipe) to go from the torque band to the clocked 12 position.  Right?

I like my EMR V2 a lot. 13" with 16" barrel:



Mine installed with the included shims, a blue and black I think.

Just received my V2 and it said I needed to use a purple and green but it would not torque properly so I think I only ended up using 1 shim. As long as the thing torques down tight enough and everything lines up, you should be fine.

Also, as a heads up, I purchased a 15" EMR V2 BLEM in their DDE for 122.00 shipped and I cannot find a blem on it anywhere.

correct