Stripped Torx - next step?

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Stripped Torx - next step?

Posted: 1/9/2016 12:59:50 PM EDT

Trying to change out some scope rings and ended up stripping one of the torx screws pretty badly. In hopes of using the rings again in the future, was wondering what tool (specific size would help) to use from here. I've looked on amazon, midway etc but I just want to be sure I order the proper size bit.

Also the screw is recessed so can't just clamp onto it, needs to be something that drills into it backwards i guess.

thanks for the help

Posted: 1/9/2016 1:02:56 PM EDT

[#1]

You'll need an easy out.

Like this...
http://www.amazon.com/piece-Easy-Screw-Bolt-Extractor/dp/B0002UJNWE

Posted: 1/9/2016 1:16:13 PM EDT

[#2]

First, make sure you use the correct size Torx ? The one size down gets used inadvertently because it will fit, I see it all the time! An old trick for small screws is to drill the appropriate hole in the stripped screw then tap in appropriate Torx bit to form the socket, then remove as you normally would. It's not easy but I do this all the time and save lots of custom fixturing and parts that way.

Posted: 1/9/2016 1:39:15 PM EDT

[#3]

These also work pretty well.

http://www.amazon.com/SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor-Bolt/dp/B00IRL3WP4

Sold by lots of people under many different brand names.

Home Depot, lowes, also have them.

Many different sizes are available, choose carefully, as too small, it breaks or strips, too big it will take the head off the screw.

Did you originally assemble the sight base - was it Loctited ? If so, it just got a lot more complicated.

You might need a person experienced in dealing with this issue.

Knowledge = learning how to do something

Experience = learning how to NOT do something, again.

IMHO YMMV

Posted: 1/20/2016 3:26:45 PM EDT

[#4]

An easy out is the first answer, but if its a real small thin head, it may just eat the head without moving the screw.

Depending on the thickness of the ring cap, you may be able to drill out the head of the damaged screw, remove the ring cap and scope. Then grap the remaining piece sticking out with a pair of vice grips and back it out. It shouldn't be under tension when you remove the cap so it should just back right out.

Did you use Red or blue thread locker? Then you will need to apply heat to liquify the thread locker before you try to twist it or you will just snap it off in the ring.

The other question is the cost of a replacement ring... is it cheaper to just drill out the scre head to get the ring open and replace it with a new ring vs the cost of a screw extractor and your time to remove the old screw.

Posted: 1/20/2016 7:43:35 PM EDT

[#5]

I had a similar problem with a gas block set screw. I brought it to my smith and he just shoved a flat blade screw driver into it and twisted it out. Didn't think of that.

Posted: 1/21/2016 4:08:25 PM EDT

[#6]

Same as the SpeedOut listed above. I've had good luck with it as well.

Grabit

Posted: 1/22/2016 10:29:14 AM EDT

[#7]

Thanks everyone for the help. Tried borrowing some tools from someone and didn't have great success with it. But I figured i'd email Burris to see what they could do, and for the price of shipping them the rings (<10$) they said they'll fix it and return it.

definitely makes me consider buying those brands with good CS and warranty. Thus far Burris is gaining my business. emailed me back promptly, worked with me through my mess up.

So can't really beat that.

Posted: 1/22/2016 7:34:59 PM EDT

[#8]

I just did this today changing the mount on my T1. I drilled the head off the screw, removed the mount and then use a small set of channel locks to remove the remaining piece. Just use a drill bit the same size as the hole the screw goes in and do it slow!

Posted: 1/22/2016 11:01:34 PM EDT

[#9]

Left hand drill bits.

Posted: 1/22/2016 11:24:19 PM EDT

[#10]

JB-Weld a Torx bit into the stripped screw.

Posted: 1/22/2016 11:29:18 PM EDT

[#11]

Since nobody has mentioned it, one I had a lot of luck with when working on customer rifles was a doubled rubber band then really get the torx bit in there to compress the rubber into the gaps.

Not a 100% chance of working, but it could save a fair bit of time on the other methods.

Posted: 1/23/2016 3:22:56 AM EDT

[#12]

Quote History

Quoted:
Left hand drill bits.

View Quote

No I just used a regular bit

Posted: 1/23/2016 3:56:07 AM EDT

[#13]

Have you tried a using a rubber band? It has worked for me before, but never had to try it with a torx screw.

edit: Yeah what NorthPolar said

Posted: 1/23/2016 11:08:51 PM EDT

[#14]

If you use a left hand when it catches hard the screw backs out.

Posted: 1/24/2016 10:46:28 AM EDT

[#15]

Quote History

Quoted:
I just did this today changing the mount on my T1. I drilled the head off the screw, removed the mount and then use a small set of channel locks to remove the remaining piece. Just use a drill bit the same size as the hole the screw goes in and do it slow!

View Quote

Thanks for this. I don't mean to hijack the thread, but as a quick check, what size bit did you use?

Posted: 1/24/2016 2:46:30 PM EDT

[#16]

Quote History

Quoted:

Thanks for this. I don't mean to hijack the thread, but as a quick check, what size bit did you use?

View Quote View All Quotes

View All Quotes

Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
I just did this today changing the mount on my T1. I drilled the head off the screw, removed the mount and then use a small set of channel locks to remove the remaining piece. Just use a drill bit the same size as the hole the screw goes in and do it slow!

Thanks for this. I don't mean to hijack the thread, but as a quick check, what size bit did you use?

I used a 1/8" bit and drilled slow checking occasionally if the mount was ready to come loose. I bought the speed out bits specifically for this but I found that they wouldn't work for me. The screw was so soft that it wouldn't catch. So I went to a regular drill bit, once the head is off the screw and the mount is off then there should be what's left of the screw sticking up and use pliars to remove it.

Posted: 1/24/2016 3:44:17 PM EDT

[#17]

If you are going to be gripping a very tiny piece of the tip sticking out try to avoid regular pliers . If you have them a nice fine pair of small vise grips (real Irwins, not PRC junk) is the best. They make small short nosed as well as small needle nosed grips. The short ones work best if you can get on it ok where the long nose have a bit of side play. Either will do less damage to the little real meat you have to grab onto to get those out.

Posted: 1/24/2016 10:37:44 PM EDT

[#18]

Quote History

Quoted:
If you are going to be gripping a very tiny piece of the tip sticking out try to avoid regular pliers . If you have them a nice fine pair of small vise grips (real Irwins, not PRC junk) is the best. They make small short nosed as well as small needle nosed grips. The short ones work best if you can get on it ok where the long nose have a bit of side play. Either will do less damage to the little real meat you have to grab onto to get those out.

View Quote

^ this! I said pliars but I should have said this

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Stripped Torx - next step?

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